Just wanted to show everyone this $15 Toro lawnmower throttle cable from eBay. This along with a backing nut from Ace Hardware, a cable stop, and a bicycle brake cable barrel adjuster netted me a $20 hand throttle. Enjoy the pics!
$20 dollar hand throttle (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter floridan surfer
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Nice work.... Looks good
Nice work! I like this
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I guarantee that works better than the garbage OEM one.
yeah I can't say I'm impressed with the OEM hand throttle.
Nice find
how did you route the cable to keep all the excess out of the way?
- Thread starter
- #9
RouxSER said:
I didn't. I cut it to the correct length. About 15.5" I think for the outer sleeve.
Pat
Has anyone got a better picture of where the cable attaches to the gas pedal? Every picture is blurry and my 92 doesnt have the place to attach it up.
My 93 didn't have it either so I bought a 94 gas pedal assembly from the classifieds here. Not sure if 91/92 is the same but it was direct bolt on.
- Thread starter
- #12
This is correct. They began to put in the hand throttle capable Gas pedal assemblies in during a certain year. Just not sure what year was.
Pat
Pat
RSHARPfzj80
Appalachia Cruisers
I had to use the gas pedal from my 94 parts truck cause my 93 didn't have the bracket.
duggy
SILVER Star
What was your main gripe with the OEM piece? I had little to no issue with mine and I use it fairly often
Wasn't expecting much from the title ($20) but that turned out really nice. Good job.
- Thread starter
- #18
gas pedal
Ok guys, maybe this will help. I have both a 94 and a 93.
The 94 has the "ready" gas pedal the the 93 does not. So maybe it became standard in 94...
And to answer above question, you pull the knob out until you reach desired RPM, then you rotate clockwise to lock.
Ok guys, maybe this will help. I have both a 94 and a 93.
The 94 has the "ready" gas pedal the the 93 does not. So maybe it became standard in 94...
And to answer above question, you pull the knob out until you reach desired RPM, then you rotate clockwise to lock.
Thanks Floridan Surfer for the writeup! You've saved me $100. If we ever meet, first round is on me!
Finally installed mine today. Got the cable off ebay for $15. Found the other parts at a bicycle store.
The mounting nut is a 9/16" fine thread. Not all hardware stores will have it. The local auto parts store got one for me the next day. Cost me $0.23.
The local bike store had a bin full of used brake lever barrel adjusters. In the first pic by the OP, you'll notice that there are TWO lock nuts on the adjuster. Be sure to find a barrel adjuster and get a 2nd nut for it. I also grabbed a cable stop and some washers to fit it all from their used bin of cantilever brake cable bolts. Total cost, $1.00 so I gave them $2 and told the kid to keep the change.
Install the barrel adjuster on the throttle bracket under the dash first. I had to file my barrel adjuster slightly to fit the factory mounting bracket. I tightened it up with some pliers.
Take the Toro throttle and clip off or straighten the end of the inner wire so you can slip the whole inner wire out. Don't worry, the cable and housing are about 2x longer than required in our vehicles.
File the hole in the dash slightly if required. On my LX450 I had to make it a half-round hole because there were two 'flats' in the dash hole, and only one 'flat' on the cable mount.
Test fit, poke it back there, slightly to the right and then mark and clip the housing with sharp side cutters. If you accidentally crush the end, you can clean it up on your bench grinder. Having the housing *slightly* longer is better than *slightly* short.
Drop the lower dash panel (3 philips screws) and mount up the cable.
When you install the cable pinch bolt, make sure there's a tiny bit of free play so that your pedal will fully return to the 'up' position. Don't make it tight! 1/8" freeplay would be idea. At least 1/16" (1-3mm) is required, or your vehicle may never return to idle. I bolted it up, then pushed the gas pedal to the floor (engine off!) and slipped the stiff wire thru the notch.
The stiff inner wire can then be positioned so that the gas pedal hole clears the cable completely without rubbing it. I had to tweak my bracket slightly by hand to get it perfect.
Finally installed mine today. Got the cable off ebay for $15. Found the other parts at a bicycle store.
The mounting nut is a 9/16" fine thread. Not all hardware stores will have it. The local auto parts store got one for me the next day. Cost me $0.23.
The local bike store had a bin full of used brake lever barrel adjusters. In the first pic by the OP, you'll notice that there are TWO lock nuts on the adjuster. Be sure to find a barrel adjuster and get a 2nd nut for it. I also grabbed a cable stop and some washers to fit it all from their used bin of cantilever brake cable bolts. Total cost, $1.00 so I gave them $2 and told the kid to keep the change.
Install the barrel adjuster on the throttle bracket under the dash first. I had to file my barrel adjuster slightly to fit the factory mounting bracket. I tightened it up with some pliers.
Take the Toro throttle and clip off or straighten the end of the inner wire so you can slip the whole inner wire out. Don't worry, the cable and housing are about 2x longer than required in our vehicles.
File the hole in the dash slightly if required. On my LX450 I had to make it a half-round hole because there were two 'flats' in the dash hole, and only one 'flat' on the cable mount.
Test fit, poke it back there, slightly to the right and then mark and clip the housing with sharp side cutters. If you accidentally crush the end, you can clean it up on your bench grinder. Having the housing *slightly* longer is better than *slightly* short.
Drop the lower dash panel (3 philips screws) and mount up the cable.
When you install the cable pinch bolt, make sure there's a tiny bit of free play so that your pedal will fully return to the 'up' position. Don't make it tight! 1/8" freeplay would be idea. At least 1/16" (1-3mm) is required, or your vehicle may never return to idle. I bolted it up, then pushed the gas pedal to the floor (engine off!) and slipped the stiff wire thru the notch.
The stiff inner wire can then be positioned so that the gas pedal hole clears the cable completely without rubbing it. I had to tweak my bracket slightly by hand to get it perfect.
I like my OEM just fine and have had no problems w/it.For 20.00 if it works I can see why not.I wouldn't knock OEM,just saying.
It only takes one person not knowing that you should set idle with the pedal and lock it with the knob to bend up the little clip that holds the knob on. After that it's a massive PITA to get tight again.
As well, the plastic nut that tightens onto the dash tends to come loose during regular use. When I say regular use, I use my hand throttle multiple times every day to high idle my diesel.
If you'd ever used the high idle knob on a piece of heavy equipment or semi truck you'd think the OEM one was garbage too. There's no comparison.
