Builds Big Red Toy (2 Viewers)

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On tweaking your pump, you will want to grab a small notebook or an app for your phone and document your tweaks (EGT's/Boost/mileage/smoke). Just keep tweaking until you're happy.
 
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On tweaking your pump, you will want to grab a small notebook or an app for your phone and document your tweaks (EGT's/Boost/mileage/smoke). Just keep tweaking until you're happy.

Where is comfortable as far as egt goes? I don't want to kill the engine prematurely. I'm happy with everything else. The Cummins emblems will be coming soon enough.
 
I'm where Dave and Mike are at in terms of EGTs. I can hit 1300* if I have the pedal to the floor, going up a grade, for a long while, but that's extremely infrequent. I hit 1000* fairly easily if I'm accelerating hard in 3rd or 4th.

Your boost is low, so I'd adjust the wastegate to put more tension on the diaphragm. That may help with the EGTs by putting more air in there to burn up the fuel. Should also help clean up the smoke.
 
So I'm sitting here killing time on the side of the road until a tow truck shows up. I blew a fuel line while driving and that full tank of diesel very quickly became half a tank.
On a bighter note I got these installed and I think they look awesome

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That ball looks massive at that angle!

So what fuel line broke? A Cummins hard line off the IP or one of the Toyota ones?
 
That ball looks massive at that angle!

So what fuel line broke? A Cummins hard line off the IP or one of the Toyota ones?

It's about the size of an 8 ball. It was the return fuel line, it's fixed now. Will be driving it tomorrow.
 
got Big Red back, looks like when the exhaust work was being done a small hole was punctured in the fuel return line.
Back to the EGT numbers, I'm thinking the location of the tap makes a huge difference and perhaps that's why mine is reading a little higher than most. I have mine on the manifold right before the turbo.

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The rig runs smooth and it doesn't feel like it's stressing or laboring while driving. Of course this is all from the seat of my pants science until I get the tach working. Let me know where you guys tapped in to get the EGT readings.

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The pyrometer is supposed to be installed in the exhaust manifold pre-turbo. That's where Dave, Mike and myself have the probes installed.
 
The pyrometer is supposed to be installed in the exhaust manifold pre-turbo. That's where Dave, Mike and myself have the probes installed.

The reason why is so you can monitor the temperature of the air going into the turbo.
Anything over 1200 degrees F and you have to worry about damage to the turbo, keeping your EGT over that temp for too long can actually start melting the casting.
 
The reason why is so you can monitor the temperature of the air going into the turbo.
Anything over 1200 degrees F and you have to worry about damage to the turbo, keeping your EGT over that temp for too long can actually start melting the casting.


This is true but more importantly the exhaust valves will melt at 1250* if pushed more than 30-45 seconds. I had a 6bt hot rod that I would see 1800* for short bursts but 10 seconds at a time. I always like to see 400* or less when shutting it down due to the oil boiling and sludging up the turbo. If its still upwards of 400* then let it idle for a couple minutes, your turbo will thank you.

Note: you can install the pyro gauge post turbo but expect a 200* drop in temp and figure that into calculations, pre turbo is most important number.
 
I try to keep it at 10000 when cruising, not my favorite number but it's better than 1200. Once the AC is installed and the knuckles are redone next week, I'm getting the timing adjusted. Hopefully that will lower it by a few hundreds. Not sure what else could be the cause.
 
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I try to keep it at 1000 when cruising, not my favorite number but it's better than 1200. Once the AC is installed and the knuckles are redone next week, I'm getting the timing adjusted. Hopefully that will lower it by a few hundreds. Not sure what else could be the cause.

Bigger Exhaust, better turbo, intercooler, timing will help but only a little bit. More timing means more heat in the motor though. Instead of going out the tailpipe so don't be surprised if your coolant temp gauge runs a little higher. Oil pressure will slightly drop and idle will become slightly inconsistent but fuel mileage will increase as well as quickness of turbo spool. What kind of motor are you going for?

Note: if your questioning my worthiness I have tuned 5 6bt's now the 3 standards are getting over 22 mpg and the autos are getting 18. I have built a VE pump from the ground up so I know those pumps very well. The 4bt is identical just 2 cylinders short.
 
Bigger Exhaust, better turbo, intercooler, timing will help but only a little bit. More timing means more heat in the motor though. Instead of going out the tailpipe so don't be surprised if your coolant temp gauge runs a little higher. Oil pressure will slightly drop and idle will become slightly inconsistent but fuel mileage will increase as well as quickness of turbo spool. What kind of motor are you going for?

Note: if your questioning my worthiness I have tuned 5 6bt's now the 3 standards are getting over 22 mpg and the autos are getting 18. I have built a VE pump from the ground up so I know those pumps very well. The 4bt is identical just 2 cylinders short.

Cruiserbrandon,
Thanks for posting and sharing your insight with me/us. I'm on this forum for the most part because I want to learn from everyone else' experience. Learning from others will save me a lot of trial and error and more importantly money. I've driven Diesels a lot, know which ones I love, which ones can handle a mission and which ones to keep in the garage. I however, other than basic fluid changes, never had to tune or rebuild one. We have mechanics for that. This is also my first Cummins.
As far as my rig goes, I have a 2.5 inch straight exhaust pipe, I thought it would be enough, but I may be wrong and that's why my Pyro is high. It's an inline pump with an intercooler. I'm borrowing a friend's turbo CHRA for the time being, mine just arrived today. The one I ordered has matching serial numbers with the turbo housing, so hopefully that helps even if a little bit. As far as what kind of engine I want, I want reliable, bullet proof. Not necessarily the fastest engine ( its a 4X4 in the end). MPG are also important, but I can sacrifice one or two miles for durability. I'm looking forward to more of your advice and experience as well as anyone else who was something to share. Thanks.
Mike
 
A larger exhaust should help as posted above.

I helped turbo a friends 3B (iggi on mud) and he tied into the stock exhaust on his BJ60, about half a year ago he damaged the exhaust while wheeling out to his climbing spot and he cut the exhaust back to near the passenger door till he could adress it. He said he instantly noticed his pyro telling him he was 100-200 degrees cooler at highway temps and his anemic 3B had a bit more go on the hills. He describes it as he was able to take one of the hills at higher gear then previously able.

Needless to say, plans for a 3" exhaust are on his list.

Point is, the big exhaust trend sounds like a lot of hype, especially for the full size diesel truck crowd running 4", 5" or 6" straight pipe, but if a mild 3.4 litre (98hp in stock form) cruiser sees benefits from a shortened length of 2" or 2.25" exhaust, I'm sure you would do well with a 3" system, or larger if you prefer. Actually, I bet if you went to 3" you'd knock 150-250 off your pyro and feel a bit more powa!
 

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