Can you move the wastegate arm with your hand? That spring looks like it isn't doing much.
Builds Big Red Toy (7 Viewers)
- Thread starter The Phoenician
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- Thread starter
- #3,022
It's at an awkward angle, but I can open just a bit with my hand. Not all the way or even halfway though.
Doesn't need much to blow off pressure. I'd get some wire and wire it shut and see what it does.
- Thread starter
- #3,024
That's not a bad idea. It will be a challenge to reach it and wrap the wire around it.
- Thread starter
- #3,026
I don't think so, but not positive.
Small turbo needs to have a pneumatic wastegate actuator for sure. No other way reliable way to tune it.
- Thread starter
- #3,028
What are the negative consequences of just shutting it permanently ?
As a test, wiring the wastegate shut on the small turbo would be fine but I wouldn't drive around normally like that. There would be the risk of overspeeding the small turbo without a working wastegate and then you're limiting the exhaust energy that goes to the big turbo to spool it up, plus by working the small turbo too hard it's out of its efficiency range and is just making hot air and not additional benefit. The benefit of having a working wastegate on the small turbo is that is what allows you to tune how the small and big share the work. A wastegate on the big only limits overall boost in a compound setup.
I have experimented with both styles of wastegate actuators: The spring style which uses driver pressure (exhaust pressure) to open the wastegate flap. And a diaphragm style actuator that uses boost pressure generated by the turbo(s) to open the wastegate flap.
My spring style that I set up on top and a diaphragm set up on bottom.
I have found that I have more control over tuning by using the diaphragm style actuator and that's what I would suggest converting to. This kind of actuator uses boost reference to activate the actuator. I take the boost signal from the small turbo's compressor housing which means that is compounded boost. Since this actuator was designed to use boost from a single turbo system it would open way too soon and that's why I've done several things to keep the wastegate shut but still functional.
You can see where I am getting the boost reference and the little boost fooler I made in the pic below.
Since you are starting fresh you could see if there are other diaphragm actuators that could be mounted up and that have changeable inner springs to help you tune how much boost it needs before it starts opening. Or you could get a diaphragm actuator that was meant for your HX30 and do stuff like I've done to keep the wastegate shut longer so that your small turbo is part of the game.
I have experimented with both styles of wastegate actuators: The spring style which uses driver pressure (exhaust pressure) to open the wastegate flap. And a diaphragm style actuator that uses boost pressure generated by the turbo(s) to open the wastegate flap.
My spring style that I set up on top and a diaphragm set up on bottom.
I have found that I have more control over tuning by using the diaphragm style actuator and that's what I would suggest converting to. This kind of actuator uses boost reference to activate the actuator. I take the boost signal from the small turbo's compressor housing which means that is compounded boost. Since this actuator was designed to use boost from a single turbo system it would open way too soon and that's why I've done several things to keep the wastegate shut but still functional.
You can see where I am getting the boost reference and the little boost fooler I made in the pic below.
Since you are starting fresh you could see if there are other diaphragm actuators that could be mounted up and that have changeable inner springs to help you tune how much boost it needs before it starts opening. Or you could get a diaphragm actuator that was meant for your HX30 and do stuff like I've done to keep the wastegate shut longer so that your small turbo is part of the game.
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Yeah, what Boots said. That adjustable boost elbow is simple and works well. The only downside is that you might not have enough room for the diaphragm style actuator.
- Thread starter
- #3,031
The fuel pump is leaking some diesel. I don't have the socket for it so I need to take it back to the diesel guy. Might be until next week.
I haven't done much on it this week, I installed a new silicone boot that's about it. Been busy with work and driving the other toy.
Hopefully next week I'll be able to mess with the turbos.
Hopefully next week I'll be able to mess with the turbos.
- Thread starter
- #3,032
I blew an oil line while taking it to my mechanic buddy. I needed to borrow his socket to fix the leak from the fuel pump. Instead, about 10 miles out I get this burning rubber smell inside the cab. I guess all I can say is thank God it's a diesel, I imagine if my other cars were leaking fuel and oil they would have gone up in flames.
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Rust prevention!
Man, that's a lot of hoses hooked up to that one oil port.
Man, that's a lot of hoses hooked up to that one oil port.
- Thread starter
- #3,034
I'm glad it happened when it did. I was thinking about driving it to Dallas.
EDIT: Could Lucas oil stabilizer have caused this? It's the first time I drive it with some in the engine. Cause or coincidence?
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Doubt it. Looks like one of the fittings wasn't all the way tight.
- Thread starter
- #3,037
Thanks for the replies guys. I run some in my air cooled car, it helps reduce the oil consumption and start up smoke. I didn't think it would be an issue for the 4bt, but you never know.
- Thread starter
- #3,038
Update on the oil leak. Looks like it's a head gasket. Worried its a cracked head and hoping it's a bad gasket from Cummins.
Any other possibilities of what it could be?
Any other possibilities of what it could be?
That sucks!
Yes that really sucks.
Hopefully a bad gasket.
Hopefully a bad gasket.
