Big Gay 2F Build Tech (1 Viewer)

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Intake like this.


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Actually have one of those flat filters be in the box sitting at an angle. It's a pretty big hole.
 
Outstanding thread... Great work on the Fab Cruisssser. You may need a custom lic plate "SKITTLES". Awesome work dude.
 
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Well a quite night here at work so I took time to read the whole thread. What started out as a quick overhaul has developed in to a complete rebuild and balance with RV cam and a decked head.

The one thing you will have is the peace of mind that everything is just as it should be. I also think you will not be disapointed with the results.

Have you ever had the pleasure of driving a newly built mildly worked 2F?

But come on pull your fingers out and lets see it back in the truck your taking almost as long as me:D
 
Valves

Just a quick question for ya, when you buy valves and seats now are they hardened for unleaded using the OEM p/n or did you buy a set that specifically said for unleaded?

I saw you tapped and screwed the oil galley nice detail, I assume you changed freeze plugs as well. That's something I knew from years ago but was recently reminded on the board otherwise I probably wouldn't of thought of it.

:steer:
 
RUSH55 said:
What's the latest juice......it's too quiet on this thread.
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Shhhh. I'm thinking.

Actually working on getting some Bin files for the ECU and work on getting a way for other MUD members to download them.

Tomorrow should be a good day.

I'm gonna grab a set of exhaust manifolds off a 3fe I have and see if they fit with the intake I have. I like the idea of using all the bolts on the later 2f head to prevent exhaust leaks.
 
Bump

Come on your almost as slow as me:grinpimp:
 
Yeah I know. Have been working on it but it's been slow. I don't consider painting gay colors tech.

One point of Tech I found out that I can use the water pump with the fan clutch in a 76 engine bay. Thought it might be too long.
 
Teebag said:
Your as bad as each other, we can't take it anymore :grinpimp:
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No kidding.

Got some work done today. Finally.

Installed the crank and cam.

Before putting it together I cleaned the block real well. The inspected it. Noticed some of the casting oil holes around the lifters were suspect.

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I could see that some places were very thin and could fall into the motor. Had a few with a screwdriver and my hand.

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And this popped off with little to no effort.

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AT that point I got the die grinder out and removed all the thin areas.

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Also these casting tabs came off with little effort also so I cut all of them off. You can see some are already missing.

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Then cleaned the block again and started assembly.

Installed the rear main. Heck of a lot easier to do it now. Thanks Poser for the tip.

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Couple of things I noted when installing the bearings.

First make sure the backs are free of oil.
My ITM bearings came packaged top and bottom. But ironically after fitting the 2nd main bottom I realized that it was wrong. The right bearing was in the other package. So all was good.

Installed the crank and torqued the caps down in the correct order according to the FSM. Making sure I used a good amount of assembly lube and adding a thin layer of RTV under the end caps.


Next checked the play in the crank. Was in spec.

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Then installed the cam backing plate making sure everything was lines up and sealed properly including the oiler for the gears. (needs to be pointing the right way and not screwed all the way in) Also I put all the bolts in so the plate would seal tight.

Then the cam went in with more assembly lube.

Where I sit now. Hope to get the rest of the bottom end together tomorrow.

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Tip on using RTV sealant. Don't put a bunch on. Add a little and use a putty knife or a razor blade to spread it out. You just need a thin layer.


A little tool I fabbed up to remove the pilot bearing that was shot.

Ground the head of a bolt round cut one side of it so it was like a hook and used some big washers and cranked it right out.

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Some advice.

To take an engine apart is a no brainer. To put it back together cannot be done without an FSM and a Torque wrench unless you have done it dozens of times. Way to many specs for my beer drinking brain to remember.
 
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Question on installing pistons. DO I need to apply assembly lube to the pistons and rings? I was thinking of just putting a light coat on the cylinder walls.

ANyone?
 
The nice folks at Hasting Ring Co. say to install new piston & ring w/ a light coat of oil/assy lube on skirt, and some very light lube (WD40) on rings & bores. They don't want the bores to be too slippery and glaze, or rings too oily and get coked up. As soon as the new engine is started and turning 2000RPM, there will be plenty of lube slung at the bores.
 
My engine builder used a light oil for the assembly and installation, you can see in the photo the oil has run out while he was showing me the work done so far to the crank.

We will also use and use an electric drill and large screwdriver blade to power the oil pump prior to fitting the Dizzy and start up, this way you oil the engine without having to crank it over, pushing oil through all the galleries and up to the rockers.

Have you thought about engine oil?

I'm running Castrol RX SUper SAE 15W-40 API CI-4. Which is a Diesel oil, word is from my engine builder that this will only be available for a few more years 2010 cut off due to some of the additives.
 
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Not thought about oil yet. Probably 20w-50 synthetic blend.

Got some more done. Starting to run out of bolts. Which is a good sign. Did the trick with not tightening the timing cover bolts until after I installed the crank pulley.

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Hi Marshall

:idea: If you paint the fan clutch bright yellow - It'll look like a flower ;)

:cheers:
 
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