matt.mcinnes
2F-ETI
I want to see a swirly patter on the fan blades too.
Big Gay 2F Build Tech (1 Viewer)
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matt.mcinnes
2F-ETI
Can you take picture of the oil cooler in situ. Tks
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- #263
Hi Marshall
If you paint the fan clutch bright yellow - It'll look like a flower
Thought about it but function comes over looks. Painting the fan clutch might screw up the cooling and hose up the little thermostat in the front. Plus I'm getting real tired of painting and taping all the s***. Thought 95% is already done. Plan on hitting the end result with a clearcoat to seal it all up.
- Thread starter
- #264
What's the "not tightening the timing cover bolts until after I installed the crank pulley," Trick 
I'm at that stage now...
Sorry, it's not so gay, but I live near West Hollywood, and I don't want to get my tail-pipe fingered
I'm at that stage now...
Sorry, it's not so gay, but I live near West Hollywood, and I don't want to get my tail-pipe fingered
- Thread starter
- #266
What's the "not tightening the timing cover bolts until after I installed the crank pulley," Trick
I'm at that stage now...
Sorry, it's not so gay, but I live near West Hollywood, and I don't want to get my tail-pipe fingered
By installing the pulley first before tightening the bolts it helps center the crank seal. I have no proof that it works but hey doesn't seem to hurt.
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Spike,
In your photo, the vac hose on the top of the carb should be connected to the center fitting of the 3 on the front of carb.
Looks good otherwise (not ghey).
hijack over
In your photo, the vac hose on the top of the carb should be connected to the center fitting of the 3 on the front of carb.
Looks good otherwise (not ghey).
hijack over
Wow Marshall. I picked up a 85 2F out of an FJ60 and I think this thread has give me the courage to attempt to rebuild it. Great Job!
- Thread starter
- #269
Just stay away from the colored spray paint.
Well after having the flu I'm back in this.
After buying a crappy piston ring compressor and lot's of bitching I got all 6 in. FSM is you friend on ring alignment. Grant posted a diagram in this thread somewhere. The compressor worked but it had a hard time keeping the oil rings from poping out. Cleaned the bearings and rods to make them free of grease. Then apply a good coat of assembly lube. I used a couple pieces of hose to protect the threads from screwing up the crank.
all done.
Next I wanted to do a mod to the oil pump. I got the idea from Andrew Farmer. I wasn't going to drill the whole thing out for more capacity but just make it a little easier for it to get out of the pump.
This is the old pump. From what I know it had about 200k on it. It looked really good. But when you spend the money I have on this thing a 80 dollar oil pump is a good piece of mind.
My understanding is that you can take these gears out and flip them. That way your wearing the back sides of the gears. You can see in this pic the shiny (worn side) and the unused side.
New pump.
In this pic you can see the outlet and how somewhat restrictive it is.
Used a die grinder to open it up.
all back together with blue locktite and a dab of red on the outside just to be on the safe side.
Thats all for now. Bottom end is almost done except for the lifters.
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matt.mcinnes
2F-ETI
I'm excited now it's a race to see who finishes first
Best pull your finger out, mine will be in by 
Looking good and a great build thread to boot, one of the best I have read.
Best pull your finger out, mine will be in by Looking good and a great build thread to boot, one of the best I have read.
Looking good Marshall, want to pop over and do mine
- Thread starter
- #272
Thanks. There is some concern about what I did to the oil pump might lower pressure. Personally I don't think it will bring me better flow or lower oil pressure. But I think the positives outweigh the negatives.
I really think you would have to do what Andrew Farmer did and basically ream the entire pump out and install a bigger feed tube and drill out the block. Then you might gain some oil flow gains. I think the biggest drawback is the relief valve on the pump. In order to gain more pressure you would have to eith put a stiffer spring in it or weld the relief hole closed and move it back further so there would be more of a pressure resiovior to fill up during the rotation of the crank and cam where the oil passages are blocked for that split second. I'm assuming that's why you need a relief valve.
I think the only way your going to improve flow is to cross drill the crank (which means another hole and less metal to hold it all together), Install a restrictor up in the head to keep oil down south where it's most important, and ream out the oil pump, block and use a bigger supply tube. Also a bigger pump wouldn't hurt. But I have no idea how to figure all that out.
Of course you could run a dry sump and be done with the whole thing and never worry about oiling issues. But even Matt wouldn't do that.
Or would he.
I really think you would have to do what Andrew Farmer did and basically ream the entire pump out and install a bigger feed tube and drill out the block. Then you might gain some oil flow gains. I think the biggest drawback is the relief valve on the pump. In order to gain more pressure you would have to eith put a stiffer spring in it or weld the relief hole closed and move it back further so there would be more of a pressure resiovior to fill up during the rotation of the crank and cam where the oil passages are blocked for that split second. I'm assuming that's why you need a relief valve.
I think the only way your going to improve flow is to cross drill the crank (which means another hole and less metal to hold it all together), Install a restrictor up in the head to keep oil down south where it's most important, and ream out the oil pump, block and use a bigger supply tube. Also a bigger pump wouldn't hurt. But I have no idea how to figure all that out.
Of course you could run a dry sump and be done with the whole thing and never worry about oiling issues. But even Matt wouldn't do that.
Or would he.
matt.mcinnes
2F-ETI
We did look at the dry sump option but $$$$$$$
My Crank was cross drilled, this improves the oiling to the crank by making the oil pulses more frequent. I also have the advantage at the crank of Jaguar con rods. It's a shame the engine builder missed taking a photo of them installed, The Jag rods as narrower at the crank than the 2F so require less oil as they have less surface area contact to lubricate. It's only small but ever bit helps.
Everyone says oiling is the issue but I think some of this is down to poor maintenance and cheap oil.
Looking at your picture, is it possible to put a small spacer/washer at one end for the spring to sit on, this would make the spring a little stiffer to open and increases the oil pressure would it not?
My Crank was cross drilled, this improves the oiling to the crank by making the oil pulses more frequent. I also have the advantage at the crank of Jaguar con rods. It's a shame the engine builder missed taking a photo of them installed, The Jag rods as narrower at the crank than the 2F so require less oil as they have less surface area contact to lubricate. It's only small but ever bit helps.
Everyone says oiling is the issue but I think some of this is down to poor maintenance and cheap oil.
Looking at your picture, is it possible to put a small spacer/washer at one end for the spring to sit on, this would make the spring a little stiffer to open and increases the oil pressure would it not?
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- Thread starter
- #274
Yeah something tells me you couldn't pull off a dry sump system for under 1k possibly 2k.
And as far as the question about the spring. I think the only one who would be able to tell us would be Andrew. Grant or Steve might know though. Uncharted waters when it comes to the oilpump and cross drilling. Your leading this one.
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A small washer (6mm?) can be dropped into the relief plug to raise relief pressure.
That will have no effect on oil pressure below the relief pressure. That is to say, if the engine is not able to make 20PSI idling, then no amount of shimming will change the fact that the oil pressure is bleeding out of the bearings faster than the pump supplies it.
That will have no effect on oil pressure below the relief pressure. That is to say, if the engine is not able to make 20PSI idling, then no amount of shimming will change the fact that the oil pressure is bleeding out of the bearings faster than the pump supplies it.
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- #276
Jim is the only reason the relief is there because of the need for the oil to have someplace to go when the cam and crank don't need it. Wouldn't it just feed to the top end? There has to be a secondary reason for the relief?
Is it possible to have to much oil pressure? I wonder what kind of pressure a hi performance engine uses.
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The oil pump can pump more oil than can be bled out through the the bearings sometimes. when the oil pumping capacity exceeds the oil leaking capacity, the pressure goes up and the relief valve blows open, dumping excess oil pressure back into the pan.
It takes HP to make oil pressure. Excessive oil pressure is a drag on power, and harder on the mechanical bits that make the oil pressure (cam drive, dissy gear). Oil pressure is kinda like spark: all that is needed is just enough. Any more is wasted.
It takes HP to make oil pressure. Excessive oil pressure is a drag on power, and harder on the mechanical bits that make the oil pressure (cam drive, dissy gear). Oil pressure is kinda like spark: all that is needed is just enough. Any more is wasted.
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- #278
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- #279
Very small update. Actually about 1 1/2 inches small. I have searched and searched for an engine temp gauge. I wanted something small and liquid filled I could install in one of the holes in the thermostat housing. A lot of people have 2.5 inch gauges but not many as far as 1.5. Found a company that makes gauges. Ironically they are Marshall gauges. They have exactly what I want. Problem is I couldn't find anyone on line that sold this one. Finally called the company up. The owner picked up the phone. Nice guy. Said he would sell me one. I never thought such a little thing would bring so much happiness.
34 bucks for it.
lol
Now if I think a in cab gauge is acting up I can pop the hood and get a second opinion.
As far as other gauges. Northern sell a full assortment of pressure gauges that are liquid filled and 1.5 big. Going to look at them today.
gauges from Northern Tool + Equipment
Also picked up one of these using some gift cards
Used one like it all the time for HVAC work. Needed something so I could put some fuel lines together.
As far as progress for the Big Gay.
Got the lifters in! Woooohoooooo! At this pace nothing will get done.
34 bucks for it.
lol
Now if I think a in cab gauge is acting up I can pop the hood and get a second opinion.
As far as other gauges. Northern sell a full assortment of pressure gauges that are liquid filled and 1.5 big. Going to look at them today.
gauges from Northern Tool + Equipment
Also picked up one of these using some gift cards
Used one like it all the time for HVAC work. Needed something so I could put some fuel lines together.
As far as progress for the Big Gay.
Got the lifters in! Woooohoooooo! At this pace nothing will get done.
Marshall,
I don't exactly understand what you want to do with the gauge... You're planning on replacing one of the BVSV's ?
I don't exactly understand what you want to do with the gauge... You're planning on replacing one of the BVSV's ?