Marshall, did you dry fit the rings in the cylinders? What does the ring gap come to?
Big Gay 2F Build Tech (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter Trollhole
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Instead of Gay, you should start your own term and call it Geh...
What kind of engine do you have in this beast?
I have the stock 2F, it's Geh...
What kind of engine do you have in this beast?
I have the stock 2F, it's Geh...
- Thread starter
- #203
I'm somewhat concerned about these Deves rings here Troll.... how bad are those imperfections on the ring side surfaces I have circled in red or is it the camera has them magnified?? and on the oil expander, is one end rounded?? either way on both counts I've never seen such on Deves before..... at this point I would return them and go with the set that came with the pistons.....ITM has been known to include whatever they can get the best deal on at the time on parts (mostly cheap) but what you have there a set of NPR (Nippon) rings, and they are very good also......sorry to butt into your s*** here, but think about it......
Imperfections are just a wax coating holding them together. But I don't like the oil rings they look cheap and poorly made. I'm going to go with the ones that came with the pistons and ditch the swiss made crap.
I've installed many sets of the Deves over the years and never have seen anything to the likes of these oil expanders... they really appear to be screwed-up... I have 2 sets at my shop for future use and gonna check them out tomorrow to see whats up... I feel bad for recommending them earlier in this thread & Hope you plan on returning them for a refund, I'd hate for you just to chunk 'em....anyway, keep-up the good work!..GL...
- Thread starter
- #205
Well I dry fitted the rings both sets. Both had around a .50 gap. fot the top and middle rings. Don't know if this is bad or not. Deves states that a 70mm bore should have a normal gape of .20-.35 and a maximum of .20-.60
But the oil rigs are another story. The Deves oil rings look like this.
Ignore the fact that it looks thick thats just a shadow from the flash. This crap will not work.
The other oil rings I got with the pistons have a gap similar to the ones above.
And the expander looked like this
So word to the wise. Just because it's supposed to be the best doesn't mean they cannot screw up and give you the wrong size crap. Measure and then measure again.
Now I have to see if MAF will take back a set of rings I bought from them 3 months ago.
But the oil rigs are another story. The Deves oil rings look like this.
Ignore the fact that it looks thick thats just a shadow from the flash. This crap will not work.
The other oil rings I got with the pistons have a gap similar to the ones above.
And the expander looked like this
So word to the wise. Just because it's supposed to be the best doesn't mean they cannot screw up and give you the wrong size crap. Measure and then measure again.
Now I have to see if MAF will take back a set of rings I bought from them 3 months ago.
No way to spec the oil ring gap, most claim can have up to 1/4" end gap, when checked in cylinder....as far as the compression rings go they can be anywhere from 0.15 to 0.30 and sometimes out to 0.50 and be cool to the eyes of the folks that made them... only way to get them to my satisfaction is to get the next size over the bore in question and hand gap them myself.... I lean towards the 0.08/.010 spread... I like the s*** to fit tight....
- Thread starter
- #207
well the ones that came with the pistons gaped out close to the upper rings. I like this idea.
I also thought about running the Deves upper two rings and the oiler set from the other set I have. WHat do you think?
I also thought about running the Deves upper two rings and the oiler set from the other set I have. WHat do you think?
Go for it... use the ones that give the best fit!... If you'll mail me the unused Deves rings I'd like to send them back to Deves with a detailed description on how they fxxxed this deal up... they need to be made aware of sorts.... I'll pay postage if interested... let me know, I'll pm you my addy.......
- Thread starter
- #209
Sure pm me your address.
Is there an advantage to having a big gap like the deves do for the oil rings?
Is there an advantage to having a big gap like the deves do for the oil rings?
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Gay 40
Hey Marshall here's a GAY looking 40 to go with your Gay 2F
Hey Marshall here's a GAY looking 40 to go with your Gay 2F
- Thread starter
- #211
I would never do that. That is put dual snorkles on a 40. What would be the purpose?
......a GAY looking 40 to go with your Gay .........
I reckon it needs "Barbie" behind the wheel to finish it off
matt.mcinnes
2F-ETI
I need a bucket
I nearly bought that FJ40. It's got Jeep front and rear axle with disc brakes, 12HT turbo diesel. The colour might be off a bit though.
When I found they had used a lot of Jeep parts it put me off. Also it cannot be registered, has to be stripped down and every weld re-inspected and signed off on.
If you weld here in Queensland it has to certified on vehicles, so you get the welds done by someone who is certified and will sign off on the engineering certificate.
This was not done and no engineer wants to put his name against it so it has to be stripped down and all welds and mechanicals redone.
matt.mcinnes
2F-ETI
troll, i don't think the oil spreader is bad but you need tospace the upper and lower oil rings 120 degees each way. then the next rings at 180 and the next at 180 to that make any sense? just don't have any two rings anywhere each other. jim
- Thread starter
- #217
A little work this week. I removed the Deves rings from the pistons and installed the NPR (Nippon) rings that came with the pistons.
Also drilled out the oil galley plug in the head and tapped for a set screw. https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=191622
Also have been cleaning the block and head in preparation of putting it back together.
I found a source for the oil pump decided to go new. Aisin for $80.
http://catalog.allcarparts.us/epcvs...catid=800993@@Oil+System&clientid=allcarparts
Also need decide what thremostat to use. Lots of temps to choose from. I'm thinking as low as possible just because unlike a carbed engine the TBI doesn't really need heat to warm up. What do ya'll think. I'm thinking cool as possible since I'll be making more heat. I've got a choice of 190 (88c), 180 (82c stock) and 160 (71c). http://catalog.allcarparts.us/epcvs...id=800996@@Water+Cooling&clientid=allcarparts
Also drilled out the oil galley plug in the head and tapped for a set screw. https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=191622
Also have been cleaning the block and head in preparation of putting it back together.
I found a source for the oil pump decided to go new. Aisin for $80.
http://catalog.allcarparts.us/epcvs...catid=800993@@Oil+System&clientid=allcarparts
Also need decide what thremostat to use. Lots of temps to choose from. I'm thinking as low as possible just because unlike a carbed engine the TBI doesn't really need heat to warm up. What do ya'll think. I'm thinking cool as possible since I'll be making more heat. I've got a choice of 190 (88c), 180 (82c stock) and 160 (71c). http://catalog.allcarparts.us/epcvs...id=800996@@Water+Cooling&clientid=allcarparts
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I reckon stock (82 oC) Marshall.
I don't think "how much heat you make" is relevant. On start-up the thermostat will stay closed till it reaches 82oC. Then it will start opening to allow coolant through your radiator. If you are "thrashing it" uphill in soft sand, the thermostat will simply open wider to allow more coolant through your radiator. And if you have overheating problems then -Well you simply need a larger radiator. (It wont be the thermostat's fault.)
I think if the manufacturer settled on 82 oC (as you suggest), then that's what you should stick with.
PS. I've been enjoying your engine build and your supurb photographic account of it. (Don't think I'll follow your technicolour lead though.)
- Thread starter
- #219
Allright back on to superb gayness.
Finally got the rest of the parts needed to complete the build.
All Car Parts
Used these guys. So far they have turned out to be a great supplier for basic parts and carry a good assortment of very cheap Aisin parts. And shipping is free for anything over $100. Will be buying brake rotors and calipers from them.
If you ever need the link it is in sig below which links to my great cruiser part link thread.
Picked up an Aisin oil pump for 80 dollars.
Thermostat Went stock temp. I read in a few places that having a motor under 170 degrees for extended periods of time is not good since most torque settings are set for a certain temp as well as the bearings.
Radiator cap
Distributor cap
New plug wires and plugs
pilot bearing
So I should have everything to start putting it all back together.
I have yet to figure out what I'm doing about the throttle cable since my Throttle Body is slightly different. Also planning on buying new injectors.
Also noticed the Downey TBI adapter needs some fitting as the butterflies as well as bolts don't quite line up. Nothing a die grinder and a few days itching cannot fix.
I'm also playing with the idea of running the intake though the dummy air vent that is on 76 cruisers Might give me a little cooler flow and since it has drains built into it I could just put some one way valves on the to prevent the 2f from sucking water in high water situations.
Also batteries all all assorted wiring is getting taken out and located under my ass. Engine bay will be painted gloss black as well as every thing else except for the big gay.
Got a gift card to lowes for christmas so I'm gonna pick up a small accyt torch. I cannot wait to get back into brazing. I think I have located a source for some fuel lines.
Does anyone know if 3fe exhaust manifolds will work on an 87 2f since I have the extra holes? Might be a good solution instead of the crappy 6/1 headers.
Should be a productive weekend.
Finally got the rest of the parts needed to complete the build.
All Car Parts
Used these guys. So far they have turned out to be a great supplier for basic parts and carry a good assortment of very cheap Aisin parts. And shipping is free for anything over $100. Will be buying brake rotors and calipers from them.
If you ever need the link it is in sig below which links to my great cruiser part link thread.
Picked up an Aisin oil pump for 80 dollars.
Thermostat Went stock temp. I read in a few places that having a motor under 170 degrees for extended periods of time is not good since most torque settings are set for a certain temp as well as the bearings.
Radiator cap
Distributor cap
New plug wires and plugs
pilot bearing
So I should have everything to start putting it all back together.
I have yet to figure out what I'm doing about the throttle cable since my Throttle Body is slightly different. Also planning on buying new injectors.
Also noticed the Downey TBI adapter needs some fitting as the butterflies as well as bolts don't quite line up. Nothing a die grinder and a few days itching cannot fix.
I'm also playing with the idea of running the intake though the dummy air vent that is on 76 cruisers Might give me a little cooler flow and since it has drains built into it I could just put some one way valves on the to prevent the 2f from sucking water in high water situations.
Also batteries all all assorted wiring is getting taken out and located under my ass. Engine bay will be painted gloss black as well as every thing else except for the big gay.
Got a gift card to lowes for christmas so I'm gonna pick up a small accyt torch. I cannot wait to get back into brazing. I think I have located a source for some fuel lines.
Does anyone know if 3fe exhaust manifolds will work on an 87 2f since I have the extra holes? Might be a good solution instead of the crappy 6/1 headers.
Should be a productive weekend.
matt.mcinnes
2F-ETI
I have a set of 3FE headers here, They should fit a 2F no problem 95% sure, but have not tried myself. 100% sure the bolt pattern is the same.
Yes they have holes for a couple of extra dowel pins but these pins are in my 3FE head. A 2F head just wont have the extra dowel pins. So they should bolt Straight on.
The only possible difference I can think of is the flange thickness or if the 2F in take runner will not fit the shape of the headers. I'd go for it, also gives you the option of twin exhaust.
These headers flow real well too.
Yes they have holes for a couple of extra dowel pins but these pins are in my 3FE head. A 2F head just wont have the extra dowel pins. So they should bolt Straight on.
The only possible difference I can think of is the flange thickness or if the 2F in take runner will not fit the shape of the headers. I'd go for it, also gives you the option of twin exhaust.
These headers flow real well too.
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