Big Gay 2F Build Tech (1 Viewer)

Trollhole

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I lost my image server so I'm having to edit every single post to get the images back in. Yay.


A little history on why it's gay.:princess: https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=167998

But the color is not the focus in this thread.

I'm starting out with an 86 2F.

Little is known about the motor. But it was just currently driven from CA to SC about 3 weeks ago. From what we can tell the motor has over 250k on it possibly more. Ran great. No idea on knowing if it is a rebuild.

Compression numbers were

#1 135
#2 135
#3 135
#4 105
#5 135
#6 135

I wouldn't have touched the top end except for the #4 cylinder had me worried.

My plans are to totally desmog it and add TBI. Top end is going out tomorrow to the machine shop to be redone. I have rebuilt a couple top ends on f motors but never dug into a 2f and never the bottom end. But my goal is to have a nice smooth strong 2f.

So now here is where the tech starts.

Cylinders
#1
DSC07958.JPG

#2
DSC07954.JPG

#3
DSC07953.JPG

#4 the problem cylinder
DSC07951.JPG

#5
DSC07950.JPG

#6
DSC07957.JPG


Rear three cylinders
DSC07939.JPG

Front 3
DSC07937.JPG


Front three chambers
DSC07942.JPG


Rear 3 chambers
DSC07943.JPG



other pics
DSC07930.JPG


DSC07932.JPG


DSC07944.JPG


DSC07945.JPG


DSC07946.JPG


DSC07949.JPG


o26Qz
 
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Trollhole

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So now the questions.

Due to the low compression on #4 I'm at the least replacing the headgasket and sendin the top end out to be rebuilt.

#1 Should I have the head shaved to add a little better performance? And if so how much?

#2 Considering I can still see the crosshatches on the cylinder walls and no scoring should I just put new rings in and clean the cylinders up?

#3 I'm pulling the pan, should I replace the oil pump while I'm in there?

#4 Also I will have the bottom end open should I replace the rod bearings and main bearings?

#5 I'd like to yank the front pulley. Anyone know the size Of the crank nut and if I could borrow the parts from autozone or advanced auto? I'm assuming I will need a puller.

#6 If the pistons end up being ok is there any benefit in having them balaced with the crank.

#7 Assuming all this other stuff is getting yanked should I go ahaead and yank the crank and replace those bearings also.

#8 Is there that big of a difference in a RV cam vs a OEM cam.

#9 Any other tips I should know?
 

Poser

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So now the questions.

Due to the low compression on #4 I'm at the least replacing the headgasket and sendin the top end out to be rebuilt.

#1 Should I have the head shaved to add a little better performance? And if so how much?

#2 Considering I can still see the crosshatches on the cylinder walls and no scoring should I just put new rings in and clean the cylinders up?

#3 I'm pulling the pan, should I replace the oil pump while I'm in there?

#4 Also I will have the bottom end open should I replace the rod bearings and main bearings?

#5 I'd like to yank the front pulley. Anyone know the size Of the crank nut and if I could borrow the parts from autozone or advanced auto? I'm assuming I will need a puller.

#6 If the pistons end up being ok is there any benefit in having them balaced with the crank.

#7 Assuming all this other stuff is getting yanked should I go ahaead and yank the crank and replace those bearings also.

#8 Is there that big of a difference in a RV cam vs a OEM cam.

#9 Any other tips I should know?



Cut .030 off the head...look at the head where the rocker cover gasket seals...and see if anyone else has ever cut the head...if they have, they may have stamped in what it has been cut.


Run a hone through the cylinders, get some new rings and call it good.


You can replace the pump if you want, but if it has been working, I would run it....take it apart and look at it...if nothing else, turn the gears over....see the 1979 H55 thread for more info on this.


I would roll new bearings in....they are cheap. :)



Crank nut is 46mm
 

Trollhole

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I would make sure that scoring is gonna clean-up first... looks kinda deep.......


When I saw that pic I though the same thing. It was just some carbon that had left that. Inspected all cylinders and all are free of score marks all smooth as glass and all still have the cross hatching.
 
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Fantastic thread, pictures "ARE" worth a thousand words. I see now I will need to dump my f motor and look for a new one, or do some major machine work.
 

Dynosoar

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That #1 looks bad I don't think you could hone it out. Does it catch your fingernail if you scrape over it? If so than most likely it wont hone out.


Dynosoar :zilla:
 

1973Guppie

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great thread, I will need to do the same "inspection" to a 2f here soon for my 55 project, so this info will really help to know what to look for as far as engine condition as I will only want to redo the top end of the engine.

and something to add to the gayness..
 

Trollhole

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That #1 looks bad I don't think you could hone it out. Does it catch your fingernail if you scrape over it? If so than most likely it wont hone out.


Dynosoar :zilla:


Just imagine making those marks with a pencil. Thats the extent of which it is on there.

Like I have said the cylinders are free from score marks.
 

Trollhole

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Dropped the head off at my machine shop.

$80 to redo the valves and install the oil seals
$60 to shave the head .030
I also decided to have them hone the cylinders since it sounds like I could possibly mess it up. $30 dollars

Best of all they are going to clean all my bolts, parts and whatever I give them for 15 dollars.
 
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Mace

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Just imagine making those marks with a pencil. Thats the extent of which it is on there.

Like I have said the cylinders are free from score marks.
You will probably have to say this three more times.

1. shave away
2. Hone and rering..
3. check clearances in the pump, when they are within spec, run it (most likely they will be)
4. Replace the bearings, all of them. It really is not that hard at the point you are..

RV cams are great. I would do it.

You are basicaly going to do a mild rebuild on this motor. Mingt as well do it and not skimp..
 
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When I rebuilt my 2F (Capt. Jim's original FJ40) I had to go 020 over and new pistons. I didn't replace the cam or lifters as they all looked good - I'd be sure to double check them. I kinda wished I'd replaced - but dang it runs great with the FI and DUI, so no worries I guess.

I ran a new oil pump - OEM was not cheap!

Getting the timing gear cover assembly just right was tedious - so worried about overtorqueing with the inch/lb's I was really careful. Other than that - easy as pie.
 

Trollhole

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My Toyota Dealer says the main bearing could be #1 #2 #3 #4 and I could have any combination of this. Said they would be stamped on them what the number is. Is this correct?

I'm guessing if I have to hone I will have to yank everything including the cam. Should I also replace those bearings while I'm in there? How hard is that? Any special tools.
 

Mace

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have the shop that is honing your block install the cam bearings..
 

Trollhole

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Is there any value to having the crank, pistons and rods balanced while it is out?


Dropped the valve seals off yesterday. Head has already been shaved .030 and the valves have been done.
 

Trollhole

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Well it's a 2f . I'd expect vibrations. Didn't know if it was worth the $$$ to have it done.
 

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