I happen to be rebuilding my 79 2F with TBI and HEI
Ok a couple of things:
1. It looks like a clown puked on your engine. Congrats!!
2. Throw out the GM computer it's ****, you can't tune it without crazy expensive software, you are not a GM engineer so you won't know how to tune it and of course it is definitely not tuned for your engine. Also you do not need a VSS to control a FI engine and for the life of me I have no clue why they have one.
3. Don't replace the injectors they are fine... trust me they are and new ones cost a good chunk of change.
4. Buy a Megasquirt II. MegaSquirt - Electronic Fuel Injection Computer by Bowling & Grippo * * ©2005 You can get one a built for about 500-600 with a relay board or you can build on yourself for about 150. It's not really that hard to solder together as assembly instructions are extensive.
5. Option 1) Trash the Toyota distributor except save the gear at the bottom. Find a any GM truck that had a straight 6. They made these up till 85 and they are everywhere. Get the HEI out of it. Have the machine shop lathe the lip on it flush with the shaft. Take the whole thing apart and buy a 7 pin HEI module, you can find it for $35 at the autoparts store. Have to find the right model year though because if you ask for the wrong year they will gladly sell you the same part for 150-200. Drill out the new holes for the larger 7 pin module and thread them. Drill another hole for the 3 new wires that the 7 pin needs and find a small grommet for the hole. Either tack weld the weights in place or make a plate. Remove the vacuum advance after marking where the reluctor ring is when the vacuum advance has no load on it. Chewing gum and duct tape something together to make the reluctor ring stay where it should, a screw into the distributor case from the relutor ring adjustment lever should work. Close up the hole where the vacuum advance used to be with an epoxy putty. NO JB WELD!! I used some stuff POR-15 sells since they are right down the road from me. Clean everything up. Put the whole thing back together minus the cap, put the Toyota gear on the bottom of shaft. There will be a nice groove right underneath where the lip used to be, put an O-Ring there. Find a big a** washer (technical term for it) that has an ID that will fit over the Dist housing shaft snug and an OD that isn't too crazy. If you can't find a washer give your machine shop the dimensions you need as it shouldn't cost much, if anything, for them to make it. Now put it into the 2F with the oil pump in place, make sure you catch the slot. Now put the washer/ring/new lip thingy down till it rest against the 2F nice and flat. Mush some more epoxy putty (I recommend the POR-15 stuff as it as good as steel when it is dry) around the the Dist body and washer making sure the Dist stays all the way down. Wait for the epoxy to dry. Remove the Dist and disassemble it. Clean up the epoxy with a file/dremel tool/whatever. Now for the most important part, paint it a big gay color! Reassemble it and put it in the block and you are all done.
5. Option 2) Trash the Toyota distributor. Call up DUI and get a 750 to 1000 dollar a** reaming for the exact same thing. This might work for you as it is keeping with the big gay theme.
6. Wire up the Megasquirt II, again not that hard as the documentation is extensive. Plus you can ask me for help as I have already done ALL of this.
On my old FJ-40 I had the 2F rebuilt with nothing fancy. Had a Webber 38, electric fan (it's possible you just need to do the homework), saginaw steering pump, CS130 Alternator, SOR headers, and stock Toyota dist. IIRC I was getting about 120 HP at the rear wheels. After I put in a 4 pin HEI dist I was around 140 HP at the rear wheels. The dist is what is making all the difference and it will purr like a kitten.
Now this time round on my new FJ-40 and a fresh rebuilt balanced engine I am looking to make somewhere between 170 and 200 HP at the rear wheels. Besides the Megasquirt II and the HEI here is what I plan to do to get this power.
1) 200 Amp 1-wire aftermarket GM alternator
2) Electric fan, need to do my homework again as I lost the old info when I sold my old FJ and I know that electric fans have gotten thinner and pump more CFM at lower amp draw now.
3) MR2 Electric Steering Pump. It's 2000 PSI max and does variable power assist based on vehicle speed. I need a VSS for this and I need to figure out a circuit board to make it all work. Some folks are already using them on the electric vehicle conversions and there is good info on them out there on the net.
4) MAF Tuned Headers. Equal length headers are optimal for any engine as it keeps the scavenging flow balanced across all the cylinders. Someone suggested running dual exhaust on the 2F. I would never do this as you would loose the scavenging effect you get from all 6 cylinders when you split them into 2 banks of 3. 2 pistons will have a drastic drop in scavenging flow when you do this. Unless you are running zoomies or have extremely short exhaust pipes you want to maximize the scavenging effect. That's why any performance V8 exhaust worth a darn has an H or X pipe so that you get good balanced scavenging flow.
Future mods I am considering due to the fact that I am running with the Megasquirt II.
1) Having the AFR adjust automatically up when I am cruising so that I can save more gas.
2) Distributorless ignition using a Ford EDIS-6.
3) E85
4) Custom intake manifold. Exhaust tubing and a welder and you too can have fun.
4) ON/OFF Supercharger. Yes, you read that right, there is a small eaton supercharger that went on a Mercedes that has an electric clutch on it. You can get on on Ebay for as little as 50 bucks.
5) Serpentine belt and pulleys, need to get my lathe setup in my new house though first.
6) Multi Displacement. I have an idea of how to do this in an unconventional way without electronically controlled hydraulic lifters, but I need to test my theory out first. I also need the EDIS trigger wheel in place first too so that I get the piston shutdown/startup timing right.
Ok enough about my absolutely crazy ideas and suggestions. I have a few questions.
1) Where are they suggesting you put the knock sensor on the 2F? I know harmonics play a big part in this decision and I decided to put mine on the intake manifold in the center. I want to know what others have done.
2) What the heck did you mean in an earlier post when you said "I'm also playing with the idea of running the intake though the dummy air vent that is on 76 cruisers Might give me a little cooler flow and since it has drains built into it I could just put some one way valves on the to prevent the 2f from sucking water in high water situations." ?
3) Anybody know if I can use any harmonic balancer that will fit? I ask this because I plan on making a serpentine pulley at some point. It doesn't make sense to use the old ugly rubber frisbee that is riveted to the pulley now and I really don't want to take the time to clean it up and paint it big gay colors. Of course I could just make a Harmonic Balancer with my lathe and mill, but I am concerned that it is more than just a flywheel.
Now let me answer for all of you the two questions that are currently in your heads.
1) I am single and therefore my middle name is "disposable income".
2) My project is almost all POR-15 Ford Blue paint with Duplicolor Gloss Black Engine Paint on the smaller parts where I got lazy and didn't feel like going through the ridiculous effort it takes to apply POR-15 paint. I am contemplating calling the project Smurf S*** Blue although I am not sold on that name and I am taking suggestions.
JoeyG
Ok a couple of things:
1. It looks like a clown puked on your engine. Congrats!!
2. Throw out the GM computer it's ****, you can't tune it without crazy expensive software, you are not a GM engineer so you won't know how to tune it and of course it is definitely not tuned for your engine. Also you do not need a VSS to control a FI engine and for the life of me I have no clue why they have one.
3. Don't replace the injectors they are fine... trust me they are and new ones cost a good chunk of change.
4. Buy a Megasquirt II. MegaSquirt - Electronic Fuel Injection Computer by Bowling & Grippo * * ©2005 You can get one a built for about 500-600 with a relay board or you can build on yourself for about 150. It's not really that hard to solder together as assembly instructions are extensive.
5. Option 1) Trash the Toyota distributor except save the gear at the bottom. Find a any GM truck that had a straight 6. They made these up till 85 and they are everywhere. Get the HEI out of it. Have the machine shop lathe the lip on it flush with the shaft. Take the whole thing apart and buy a 7 pin HEI module, you can find it for $35 at the autoparts store. Have to find the right model year though because if you ask for the wrong year they will gladly sell you the same part for 150-200. Drill out the new holes for the larger 7 pin module and thread them. Drill another hole for the 3 new wires that the 7 pin needs and find a small grommet for the hole. Either tack weld the weights in place or make a plate. Remove the vacuum advance after marking where the reluctor ring is when the vacuum advance has no load on it. Chewing gum and duct tape something together to make the reluctor ring stay where it should, a screw into the distributor case from the relutor ring adjustment lever should work. Close up the hole where the vacuum advance used to be with an epoxy putty. NO JB WELD!! I used some stuff POR-15 sells since they are right down the road from me. Clean everything up. Put the whole thing back together minus the cap, put the Toyota gear on the bottom of shaft. There will be a nice groove right underneath where the lip used to be, put an O-Ring there. Find a big a** washer (technical term for it) that has an ID that will fit over the Dist housing shaft snug and an OD that isn't too crazy. If you can't find a washer give your machine shop the dimensions you need as it shouldn't cost much, if anything, for them to make it. Now put it into the 2F with the oil pump in place, make sure you catch the slot. Now put the washer/ring/new lip thingy down till it rest against the 2F nice and flat. Mush some more epoxy putty (I recommend the POR-15 stuff as it as good as steel when it is dry) around the the Dist body and washer making sure the Dist stays all the way down. Wait for the epoxy to dry. Remove the Dist and disassemble it. Clean up the epoxy with a file/dremel tool/whatever. Now for the most important part, paint it a big gay color! Reassemble it and put it in the block and you are all done.
5. Option 2) Trash the Toyota distributor. Call up DUI and get a 750 to 1000 dollar a** reaming for the exact same thing. This might work for you as it is keeping with the big gay theme.
6. Wire up the Megasquirt II, again not that hard as the documentation is extensive. Plus you can ask me for help as I have already done ALL of this.
On my old FJ-40 I had the 2F rebuilt with nothing fancy. Had a Webber 38, electric fan (it's possible you just need to do the homework), saginaw steering pump, CS130 Alternator, SOR headers, and stock Toyota dist. IIRC I was getting about 120 HP at the rear wheels. After I put in a 4 pin HEI dist I was around 140 HP at the rear wheels. The dist is what is making all the difference and it will purr like a kitten.
Now this time round on my new FJ-40 and a fresh rebuilt balanced engine I am looking to make somewhere between 170 and 200 HP at the rear wheels. Besides the Megasquirt II and the HEI here is what I plan to do to get this power.
1) 200 Amp 1-wire aftermarket GM alternator
2) Electric fan, need to do my homework again as I lost the old info when I sold my old FJ and I know that electric fans have gotten thinner and pump more CFM at lower amp draw now.
3) MR2 Electric Steering Pump. It's 2000 PSI max and does variable power assist based on vehicle speed. I need a VSS for this and I need to figure out a circuit board to make it all work. Some folks are already using them on the electric vehicle conversions and there is good info on them out there on the net.
4) MAF Tuned Headers. Equal length headers are optimal for any engine as it keeps the scavenging flow balanced across all the cylinders. Someone suggested running dual exhaust on the 2F. I would never do this as you would loose the scavenging effect you get from all 6 cylinders when you split them into 2 banks of 3. 2 pistons will have a drastic drop in scavenging flow when you do this. Unless you are running zoomies or have extremely short exhaust pipes you want to maximize the scavenging effect. That's why any performance V8 exhaust worth a darn has an H or X pipe so that you get good balanced scavenging flow.
Future mods I am considering due to the fact that I am running with the Megasquirt II.
1) Having the AFR adjust automatically up when I am cruising so that I can save more gas.
2) Distributorless ignition using a Ford EDIS-6.
3) E85
4) Custom intake manifold. Exhaust tubing and a welder and you too can have fun.
4) ON/OFF Supercharger. Yes, you read that right, there is a small eaton supercharger that went on a Mercedes that has an electric clutch on it. You can get on on Ebay for as little as 50 bucks.
5) Serpentine belt and pulleys, need to get my lathe setup in my new house though first.
6) Multi Displacement. I have an idea of how to do this in an unconventional way without electronically controlled hydraulic lifters, but I need to test my theory out first. I also need the EDIS trigger wheel in place first too so that I get the piston shutdown/startup timing right.
Ok enough about my absolutely crazy ideas and suggestions. I have a few questions.
1) Where are they suggesting you put the knock sensor on the 2F? I know harmonics play a big part in this decision and I decided to put mine on the intake manifold in the center. I want to know what others have done.
2) What the heck did you mean in an earlier post when you said "I'm also playing with the idea of running the intake though the dummy air vent that is on 76 cruisers Might give me a little cooler flow and since it has drains built into it I could just put some one way valves on the to prevent the 2f from sucking water in high water situations." ?
3) Anybody know if I can use any harmonic balancer that will fit? I ask this because I plan on making a serpentine pulley at some point. It doesn't make sense to use the old ugly rubber frisbee that is riveted to the pulley now and I really don't want to take the time to clean it up and paint it big gay colors. Of course I could just make a Harmonic Balancer with my lathe and mill, but I am concerned that it is more than just a flywheel.
Now let me answer for all of you the two questions that are currently in your heads.
1) I am single and therefore my middle name is "disposable income".
2) My project is almost all POR-15 Ford Blue paint with Duplicolor Gloss Black Engine Paint on the smaller parts where I got lazy and didn't feel like going through the ridiculous effort it takes to apply POR-15 paint. I am contemplating calling the project Smurf S*** Blue although I am not sold on that name and I am taking suggestions.

JoeyG