Big brakes for 08-15 using 16+ parts (3 Viewers)

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move the lines over from your old calipers and install here using the new crush washers (22 ft-lbf)
this isn't my first rodeo with brakes, but for some reason I tend to use actual torque values since i have access to them. How are you putting 22ft-lbs on a brake line - some sort of adapter?
If it were my old vette, i'd just pick up an 25lb barbell and try to match that amount of force to my wrench :cool:
 
this isn't my first rodeo with brakes, but for some reason I tend to use actual torque values since i have access to them. How are you putting 22ft-lbs on a brake line - some sort of adapter?
If it were my old vette, i'd just pick up an 25lb barbell and try to match that amount of force to my wrench :cool:


It’s a banjo fitting on our front brake calipers so pretty easy to do. I can try and grab a picture if you aren’t familiar with this particular setup..
 
It’s a banjo fitting on our front brake calipers so pretty easy to do. I can try and grab a picture if you aren’t familiar with this particular setup..

Man if you can get brake lines to not leak with anything less than “this can’t get any tighter, the tab is bending” you’re a better man than I.
 
Man if you can get brake lines to not leak with anything less than “this can’t get any tighter, the tab is bending” you’re a better man than I.
I’ve only once used the tab as the backup for tightening.. about 30 years ago. Since then I have always put a wrench (or even a pipe wrench) on the flats to support the tab.

Either way for my brake job I didn’t loosen the reverse taper fittings on the front lines. The banjo fitting at the caliper only. If someone were changing lines at the same time yes this would need to be done.

I did have to do the reverse tapers on my rear brakes for the bearing job and no leaks to report.
 
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It’s a banjo fitting on our front brake calipers so pretty easy to do. I can try and grab a picture if you aren’t familiar with this particular setup..
aha, thanks! No, none of my previous cars have used a banjo for the brake lines. Looks way easier than old school brake lines. Now i just have to go find all the parts i stored away in the garage.

Last stupid question: What's the latest bed-in procedure? I know it's a series of high speed brake applications, but haven't checked the FSM yet to see what mr. toyota says.
 
Anyone in NC want to help me tackle this? I’ve never done brakes and would definitely need a friend to assist. 🙏
 
For those looking for a slight upgrade on 2008-2015 brakes the Z36 brake upgrade (pads/rotors) was great for me when I had my 2009. Noticeable improvement especially when towing or under load or repeated braking and heat cycling:

But this is definitely a much larger upgrade with the 2016+ brake setup. I can tell you with certainty that the newer brakes are very noticeably an upgrade. First time towing our 30ft boat on its triple axle trailer with our 2017 LX570, I immediately noticed how much better the brakes are. If you tow often or are heavily armored with additional weight I would say the 2016+ brake upgrade as described in this thread is definitely worth the effort and cost if it is in your budget.
 
Last stupid question: What's the latest bed-in procedure? I know it's a series of high speed brake applications, but haven't checked the FSM yet to see what mr. toyota says.

I get up to about 40 mph then hit the brakes fairly hard down to 5 mph, repeat 2 more times, then go to 50 and stop as hard as I can down to 0 without locking up the brakes then immediately release and drive for a couple of miles to cool them. Has worked well so far and also good for reseating brakes if there is a slight pulse from buildup on the rotor.
 
This is me trying not to over-analyze things, but anyone know what these “match marks” are or if they matter?

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Maybe to match where the runout is least, for future folks who are removing and reinstalling the disc?

You are measuring and minimizing runout, right?
 
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Here's a question about this upgrade, asks the guy who just realized his rear brake pads are eating into this old rotors...
Is this mod just for the front brakes on my 2015 LX and the rear stays the same or ?
 
Here's a question about this upgrade, asks the guy who just realized his rear brake pads are eating into this old rotors...
Is this mod just for the front brakes on my 2015 LX and the rear stays the same or ?
Yep. Rears stayed the same from 08-21 so no point changing those.

16+ LX has electric parking brake but the rotors/pads are still the same.
 
Do the OEM calipers need to be painted or are they good to go? Just got my parts in from the latest sale.
 
Do the OEM calipers need to be painted or are they good to go? Just got my parts in from the latest sale.
OEM Calipers don't need to be painted.
 
New year, new brakes. Thanks all for the ideas and how to! I used a cheap step bit and ground it down. With a bit of cutting oil, I was able to drill all four holes in 15 seconds each. Smooth and easy.

I used a 7 ton puller to get the bearing free from the CV. Thanks for that recommendation. Very easy as well.

If anyone in Canada needs a
9/16 " step drill bit for this operation, PM me and I'll ship it at cost.

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I did this upgrade as well over the weekend. Went smooth but it did take a lot more effort than planned to enlarge the holes(multiple bits/techniques). I also painted the calipers with VHT Caliper paint in silver/clear to help it last.
I didn't change out the backing plate and I can hear it rubbing when i pulled out of my garage. Before I remove the wheels and start prying on it, does anyone who kept the pre-16' , know where I need to modify the dust shield? Thanks
 
I did this upgrade as well over the weekend. Went smooth but it did take a lot more effort than planned to enlarge the holes(multiple bits/techniques). I also painted the calipers with VHT Caliper paint in silver/clear to help it last.
I didn't change out the backing plate and I can hear it rubbing when i pulled out of my garage. Before I remove the wheels and start prying on it, does anyone who kept the pre-16' , know where I need to modify the dust shield? Thanks
Post #3, here:


You can probably do it by hand with the wheels on the truck.
 
Post #3, here:


You can probably do it by hand with the wheels on the truck.
Thanks for the link, I decided to not be lazy and remove the wheels. Then I used a plastic pry tool (panel remover) to pull a few spots away from the rotor.

First impression is a huge improvement. I bought my 15' with 74k miles and the brakes always felt squishy with more pedal travel than I prefer. I used all Lexus parts and replaced the rear rotors and pads while I was there. I also flushed/bleed the brakes.

Highly recommended!

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