I beg your pardon?
Big Brake Kit for 80-gauging interest**
- Thread starter landcruisnman
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Which part?
A system that only increases line pressure is not going to reduce stopping distance if the previous system was already capable of lock up. It will increase pedal feel. I know this. I've installed hydroboost systems and it's pure science.
Pad compound will decrease stopping distance as more friction occurs.
Rotor swept area will decrease stopping distance and due to a aprgwr surface area capable of expelling heat, increase repeatability.
Steel lines will increase pedal feel and can decrease stopping distance if the old lines were incapable of containing pressure to due age and wear.
Some have gotten what they were looking for by removing all ABS plumbing thereby simplifying the system so that air could actually be bleed out. This, for some reason, didn’t help mine much. The pedal stroke was still very long and seemed to be near the floor before the brakes would bite as hard as they could and even then I was unable to lock up 37’s.
Having adapted hydro boost previously to a rig fitted with D60/14B axles and remembering the super good performance, I couldn’t wait to have a brake pedal that stood high and hard ready to concur any situation with one toe.
I now bleed my system by gravity alone, the pedal stroke is short due to a 1.125” dia. MC and wheeling over large rocks and ledges no longer requires the quick double pump in order to “build a pedal” that will certainly accomplish the task at hand. It does stop sooner. More clamping force generates more friction which generates more heat more quickly. That heat represents energy. My braking efforts require less of me and that inspires confidence and greater appreciation of my driving experience. There is a reason why so many “custom” builds include a hydro booster.
Now, imagine the brakes I’ll have when I do go for one of these big brake kits or the Gen V 4runner rotors and calipers. The larger MC means I’m actually ready for larger calipers too.
A hydroboost is an add on that should be done.
I think you're misunderstanding me.
But to claim it's on par or a better option than 14" rotors and bigger calipers is just silly. That's my point.
As I said, I've done hydroboost swaps. They're awesome.
Pedal feel can also be changed by a different ratio master cylinder.
Also my point with clamping force is this, of you can lock the brakes up. You have more clamping force than useable. You need to increase friction with less force. Tires, pads, rotors
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I hate to derail this thread but I do have Wiwood 6 piston, 14" Tundra rotors and a mushy OEM booster going bye bye. I have the new hydro booster and larger diameter MC sitting here waiting on me to go in so I don't feel so bad LOL. I did notice you have braided lines coming from the MC. Is there any disadvantage to this over hard lines? I'll likely go full hard line but saw this so just had to ask.
Azca
If there is a harder way - I will find it...
I must be missing something in the discussion here. Just my observations. I am not a brake expert but, it would seem people are confusion the operation of the braking system and how it should function.
Clamping force should (will) improve stopping power. If you can lock up the brakes, and keep them locked, the hydro boost should not offer any additional on road performance gain on a rig where everything is equal. But, if you increase weight, are towing, trying to stop going downhill or have larger tires, this changes. a stock brake system may not be able to clamp the rotors sufficiently to stop the vehicle. More pressure, not surface area, will address this. I could stop my cruiser with no problem on streets and lock up all four corners. BUT, on steep off roading grades (not extreme) I could not stop the truck. No increase in pad width would have helped. More force in these areas will improve one stop performance. but not repeated stops.
More clamping force will not translate to improved braking overall. Repeated stops, with small pads, will generate a lot of heat that cannot be rapidly dissipated. This in turn may cause the brake fluid to boil and further reduce performance. A larger pad and larger rotor will add more mass that can dissipate heat caused from this added friction. But, if you can't apply sufficient pressure, an increase in surface area should only provide marginal improvement.
It would seem, depending on what you are doing, that one or both system upgrades add benefits. That said, one cannot compensate for the other. Just trying to look at this logically.
Clamping force should (will) improve stopping power. If you can lock up the brakes, and keep them locked, the hydro boost should not offer any additional on road performance gain on a rig where everything is equal. But, if you increase weight, are towing, trying to stop going downhill or have larger tires, this changes. a stock brake system may not be able to clamp the rotors sufficiently to stop the vehicle. More pressure, not surface area, will address this. I could stop my cruiser with no problem on streets and lock up all four corners. BUT, on steep off roading grades (not extreme) I could not stop the truck. No increase in pad width would have helped. More force in these areas will improve one stop performance. but not repeated stops.
More clamping force will not translate to improved braking overall. Repeated stops, with small pads, will generate a lot of heat that cannot be rapidly dissipated. This in turn may cause the brake fluid to boil and further reduce performance. A larger pad and larger rotor will add more mass that can dissipate heat caused from this added friction. But, if you can't apply sufficient pressure, an increase in surface area should only provide marginal improvement.
It would seem, depending on what you are doing, that one or both system upgrades add benefits. That said, one cannot compensate for the other. Just trying to look at this logically.
That's my lightning. Those are OEM brake hard lines.
@on the rocks that post above is at you
Well the hydro boost is a huge gain VS the vacuum boost like night and day difference, I have a truck that has them and before I had one with vacuum boosted and it's amazing the difference and as @baldilocks said he noticed a huge difference and he drives his cruiser way harder than 95% of the people here do
Azca
If there is a harder way - I will find it...
I am installing one on mine, all work on it is complete, it is just the other 99+ items that I have to do that are keeping it in the garage... Can't wait to see the improvement!
Holy smokes! That is some terrible looking workmanship by Wilwood! That part should have been scrapped, not anodized, laser marked and sold.
While I believe that hydroboost and larger rotors/calipers are two totally separate issues I would do hydroboost first. It's so much simpler and a real driver comfort upgrade by stiffening up pedal response.
And yes, 80 series easily weigh 8000 lbs and up.
A) mines a 91, with no electronics and a jdm import
B) are you sure?
By my math that's 4620 and that's before a bumper and 35's
Lot of 4800-5000lb land cruisers here
How Much Does Your 80 Weigh?
I swung by my local s c r a p yard today and got my 80 weighed. Mods: 35" MTR Kevlars on 15" steel wheels, no spare custom rear bumper custom roof rack with hi lift dual batteries drawer system with a decent amount of tools 1/2 tank of gas Me (155 lbs) Front - 2940 lbs Rear -...
forum.ih8mud.com
Listed curb weight is 4600 for a 90-92
4,800lbs bone stock all over the World Wide Web.
