I dont have more pictures of the trimming, at that point I was ready to be done with the headlights and it slipped my mind.
They are attached to the high beam only, not on its own separate switch
Bi-Xenon Retro-Fit Simplified!
- Thread starter Chef J
- Start date
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Luke111
Supporting Vendor
Nice work on getting the D2S and the LED's installed
Easy modification to fix the D2S fitment issues was to lower the pivot point at the top. I took the pivot point and replaced it with a threaded screw and epoxied it into the location of the pivot. This lowered the overall height of the housing but it provided enough clearance for the projector. Only thing you will need is a 6-32 threaded screw and associated washers and nuts and a bottle of locktite and JB weld. Remove the chrome adjuster from the housing and the pivot point. JB weld the 6-32 threaded rod into the place of the pivot hole. Thread and locktite the first nut into place approx. 1/8" from the housing.
![IMG_6013[1].JPG](https://forum.ih8mud.com/attachments/img_6013-1-jpg.1450730/ "IMG_6013[1].JPG")
![IMG_6016[1].JPG](https://forum.ih8mud.com/attachments/img_6016-1-jpg.1450733/ "IMG_6016[1].JPG")
Reattach the chrome adjuster.
![IMG_6018[1].JPG](https://forum.ih8mud.com/attachments/img_6018-1-jpg.1450740/ "IMG_6018[1].JPG")
Install the 2nd washer and nut on the top snug tight. At this point I installed it on the truck and adjusted the projector in the proper location so I knew that the chrome adjuster didn't move again when completely assembled. After adjusting I removed the light and locktite the top nut and snugged it tight so the adjuster wont move.
![IMG_6071[1].JPG](https://forum.ih8mud.com/attachments/img_6071-1-jpg.1450741/ "IMG_6071[1].JPG")
It drops the whole assembly down about 3/8" of an inch which leaves about 1/8" clearance from the glass cover and projector. I reinstalled and everything works perfectly. No hacking or cutting just lowering of the chrome adjuster.
![IMG_6073[1].JPG](https://forum.ih8mud.com/attachments/img_6073-1-jpg.1450742/ "IMG_6073[1].JPG")
Good Luck!
Reattach the chrome adjuster.
Install the 2nd washer and nut on the top snug tight. At this point I installed it on the truck and adjusted the projector in the proper location so I knew that the chrome adjuster didn't move again when completely assembled. After adjusting I removed the light and locktite the top nut and snugged it tight so the adjuster wont move.
It drops the whole assembly down about 3/8" of an inch which leaves about 1/8" clearance from the glass cover and projector. I reinstalled and everything works perfectly. No hacking or cutting just lowering of the chrome adjuster.
Good Luck!
So my retrofit kit has been collecting dust in the garage and I 'd like to get around to doing this project. Looks like I'm going to go the route of that Briguy280z went. But before I break anything that will be unfixable, what is the easiest way of removing the chrome adjusters from the housing? Seems like this would be simple, but I'm running into a wall here.
I found a heat gun was the best way to preserve all the plastic parts.
Luke111
Supporting Vendor
Following @Briguy280z build replacing the ball pivot with a solid mount. I Dremeled the small shoulder picking up an additional 1/16 for the D2S but I cut off almost 1/14 inch of the shoulder in the high beam side. I’m mounting a 2.0 projector I picked up from Lightwerkz in the high beam side
Still need to mount and adjusted them
Still need to mount and adjusted them
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Luke111
Supporting Vendor
Make sure you purchase the ring tightening tool for the new D2S 5.0 .. works in tight spaces. I also painted everything
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EPIC Cruisers
Supporting Vendor
Luke, did you have any problems with the projector being too close to the lens? Like described by other people when using the D2S 4.0s.
Luke111
Supporting Vendor
Read post #86 on this page. Using the solid mount method gave me the clearance
EPIC Cruisers
Supporting Vendor
Gotcha, completely missed that. Thanks!
That being said has anyone found another projector that will work without having to go through all that extra work?
I use these in both my 80 and my 4runner. Have had them in my 4runner for years. They fit right in the 80 depo housing but only have about 1/8" distance from the glass. Some people on amazon complain about hot spots-I havent had that problem. The cutoff isn't perfect, but that doesn't bother me, I actually kind of like that some dim light gets past the cutoff.
Amazon product ASIN B00B21R0TA
EPIC Cruisers
Supporting Vendor
Thanks for the recommendation, I'll have to check them out. Any problems with quality overall? (besides hot spots) They just seems very cheap, almost too cheap. Haha
Like I said, I haven't noticed any hot spots on mine. I use ddm tuning bulbs and ballasts and a h4 conversion for the flap in the projectors. You can easily bench test them with a h1 halogen bulb and check them out in a dark room or yard and send them back to amazon if you don't like them. Ive only installed 2 sets. The set in my 80 is only 6 months old, the set in my 4runner is about 2 or 3 years old. Its very easy to crossthread the nut on the back so be careful to get the nut on straight. Also the clip that holds the bulb in is kind of cheesy. It won't fall apart or anything, just not super user friendly. Also you have to make sure you get the top lined up with the top of the housing. As you tighten the installation nut it will want to spin off center if your not careful. Just basic mechanical knowledge and forethought though will get them installed right.
EPIC Cruisers
Supporting Vendor
Thanks for all the info! Like you said I may buy them and "bench test" them. If I don't like them I can always just return them. I may reach out to The Retrofit Source and ask if they can recommend any other projector that is "shorter".
Luke111
Supporting Vendor
The Morimoto Mini H1 will easily fit....I'm about to document a D2S Depo build for another 80... it's really just one more step and not that difficult to get clearance.
EPIC Cruisers
Supporting Vendor
I wonder if the Morimoto Mini D2S in the "square" shape would give us more clearance in this application? Based on the shape/curvature, and photos in this thread showing were the projector hits the headlight lens I think the "square" shape would possibly give the additional needed clearance without additional modification.
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Luke111
Supporting Vendor
Looking at the measurements on TRS the Mini H1 overall length is a bit more but having a small bowel and thread shaft allows it to sit a little deeper. I think you'll find the square has the same issue.. It’s really not complicated..you remove the swivel attachment point .. Dremel the 1/16 inch shoulder flush. Screw in a treaded 8/32 shaft,
Add a grommet a nut another grommet and a washer ... install the shroud and a nut ..this is lowering the depth of the shroud giving you the clearance.. it’s pretty simple
Add a grommet a nut another grommet and a washer ... install the shroud and a nut ..this is lowering the depth of the shroud giving you the clearance.. it’s pretty simple
I started with the square ones and they did not fit. Had to hard mount them which give tons of room.
EPIC Cruisers
Supporting Vendor
Now that I have plenty of time to work on projects, this is first on my list. This will be my first retrofit. Did you ever get a chance to document the D2S build? Would help me out a ton and make me feel better about tearing these headlights apart. Thanks!
