best way to remove cone washers? (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Nov 17, 2006
Threads
51
Messages
299
Location
just moved to cairns , Qld
Doing my front end & takn hubs off , havent done lsndcruiser hubs in ages , forgotten how you get those cone washers out that hold the freewheeln hub on . Easiest /fastest way ? Thanx

ForumRunner_20120225_023944.jpg


ForumRunner_20120225_024321.jpg
ForumRunner_20120225_023944.jpg
ForumRunner_20120225_024321.jpg
 
Last edited:
take a brass hammer or drift pin and tap the end of the stud head a few times the should pop loose. If really dirty they might not come loose right away. I also have had to use a small flat head after they break free to insert into the split and turn them a bit.
 
Short of using a seal pick (or similar) to persuade them out, usually a sharp rap with a dead-blow hammer to the face of the hub does the trick and pops them out. I use a block of oak across the open end. Otherwise, GENTLY tapping atound the flange will also pop them out.
 
dental picks work too, I've heard. But brass drift is my first choice.
 
Short of using a seal pick (or similar) to persuade them out, usually a sharp rap with a dead-blow hammer to the face of the hub does the trick and pops them out. I use a block of oak across the open end. Otherwise, GENTLY tapping atound the flange will also pop them out.


X2

Never had any luck just tapping. I use a brass punch and a BFH. The brass is softer than stud and takes all the damage. On certain things I will leave the nut on the thread and tap the nut. This is not one of them, as hard as I have had to hit the end of the stud I would worry about the nut damaging the threads on the stud. You can leave the nut on just in past the end of the stud so if end of the thread is messed up unthreading the nut will straighten it up. Just leave enough room for the cone washer to pop up.
 
After reading ur posts & dont have a brass hammer , after few attempts , put the nut back on & tappd it , workd a treat,then drove flat head screw driver in slot and popped out , thanx for ur help . Usa/canada time diffrnce works a treat when u workn on ur truck at night / early morn & u get stuck &
Need advice , wicked

ForumRunner_20120225_031740.jpg
ForumRunner_20120225_031740.jpg
 
I put a nut on the stud and whack them from the side, i.e. radially. The stud deflects slightly and squeezes the washers out. Just be careful not to whack so hard as to bend them. Works every time.
 
I always put a flat head in the little grove, and turn. knocks them loose everytime.
 
Need to put this in the FAQ section , went lookn for it & couldnt find it ( must be an aussie thing -lol ) so then posted the question . Awesome , thanx for ur advice . Everyone has a different way
 
I put a nut on the stud and whack them from the side, i.e. radially. The stud deflects slightly and squeezes the washers out. Just be careful not to whack so hard as to bend them. Works every time.
\

I just tried every technique described online to do this, and this is the best one, hands down. There is no way those things were coming out from hitting the side of the flange or the bolts straight on... hitting sideways they popped right out like magic.
 
x many on the brass drift/brass hammer on the stud ends w/nut flush. Don't forget to use plenty of anti-seize when reinstalling. I prefer the copper version.
 
I just use vice grips and no whacking at all.

WheelBearings08.jpg

WheelBearings09.jpg

And best to put them back in with something like copper-grease (anti-seize) coating them to make future removal even easier as Blue77FJ40 suggests.

:beer:
WheelBearings08.jpg
WheelBearings09.jpg
 
Last edited:
Nothing is easier than a whack with a brass hammer. Toss your safety glasses on and be prepared to catch them. They usually come flying right out.

I just use vice grips and no whacking at all.

And best to put them back in with something like copper-grease (anti-seize) coating them to make future removal even easier as Blue77FJ40 suggests.

:beer:

You just wanted to show off the full floater!
 
If you can grab them with vice grips, then they either weren't tightened enough or someone put anti seize on them before the last install. If they're tight and rusty like most, then a few whacks with a brass drift and a BFH will do the job.
 
If you can grab them with vice grips, then they either weren't tightened enough or someone put anti seize on them before the last install. If they're tight and rusty like most, then a few whacks with a brass drift and a BFH will do the job.

Or, most directly, a BFBH. A BFBrassH.
 
Nothing is easier than a whack with a brass hammer. Toss your safety glasses on and be prepared to catch them. They usually come flying right out.



You just wanted to show off the full floater!

If you can grab them with vice grips, then they either weren't tightened enough or someone put anti seize on them before the last install. If they're tight and rusty like most, then a few whacks with a brass drift and a BFH will do the job.

Or, most directly, a BFBH. A BFBrassH.

OK. I'll come clean..............

I had been into that hub before (at least a decade earlier) so those cones would have been inserted covered in copper grease.

And furthermore .... I can indeed recall the days when I butchered factory-installed (read "without antisieze coating") cone washers and had to purchase new ones (before I knew about the "whammmo method" which I admit I've never tried).

:beer:
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom