Best replacement radiator for the money today... (3 Viewers)

[parkeyjack]

It should be the same or a few degrees cooler.

You are correct I do I have a 100 and a Mishimoto radiator, however I have you to install it. That said, I have read of other installing it and not having any issues with it.

It still seems that you have air in the system. You may want to see if the shop can use a coolant vacuum to pull out any lingering air from the system. Did you pull the thermostat to insure it was installed correctly (jiggle valve at 12 o'clock). Is your radiator cap an OEM unit?

I will ask them to do that at the shop. I was going ask them about the thermostat as well. Just figure I could/can do that but they are better equipped and if they installed it wrong...kinda on them to fix it. Will update when I fix this issue and can hopefully help out some other poor soul! Haha. I will also check about the radiator cap. However I don't think that should be an issue.

 

[parkeyjack]

I will ask them to do that at the shop. I was going ask them about the thermostat as well. Just figure I could/can do that but they are better equipped and if they installed it wrong...kinda on them to fix it. Will update when I fix this issue and can hopefully help out some other poor soul! Haha. I will also check about the radiator cap. However I don't think that should be an issue.

It should be the same or a few degrees cooler.

You are correct I do I have a 100 and a Mishimoto radiator, however I have you to install it. That said, I have read of other installing it and not having any issues with it.

It still seems that you have air in the system. You may want to see if the shop can use a coolant vacuum to pull out any lingering air from the system. Did you pull the thermostat to insure it was installed correctly (jiggle valve at 12 o'clock). Is your radiator cap an OEM unit?

I contacted my shop. They said they have never had a problem with OEM but can't guarantee aftermarket.... I contacted Mishimoto and am waiting to hear back from them on the issue. They do have my foam, not my OEM radiator cap. Really trying to figure this problem out, because there is no reason my temps should be this high.

 

[mdcoa]

I contacted my shop. They said they have never had a problem with OEM but can't guarantee aftermarket.... I contacted Mishimoto and am waiting to hear back from them on the issue. They do have my foam, not my OEM radiator cap. Really trying to figure this problem out, because there is no reason my temps should be this high.

If temps are higher than normal at idle/in traffic, but normal at highway speeds, I think the lack of foam alone could be the culprit--if the engine fan is sucking air through that giant gap instead of through the radiator, the radiator won't cool like it should. I'd have the shop chuck the foam in and see what happens then.

 

[parkeyjack]

If temps are higher than normal at idle/in traffic, but normal at highway speeds, I think the lack of foam alone could be the culprit--if the engine fan is sucking air through that giant gap instead of through the radiator, the radiator won't cool like it should. I'd have the shop chuck the foam in and see what happens then.

They are 10 degrees higher at highway speeds. Hitting 200 easy. and about 5 to 7 degrees higher in normal driving...

 

[mdcoa]

They are 10 degrees higher at highway speeds. Hitting 200 easy. and about 5 to 7 degrees higher in normal driving...

Ok, yeah, sounds like it’s not just the missing foam—sorry if I missed these details earlier.

 

[94SRUNNER]

I contacted my shop. They said they have never had a problem with OEM but can't guarantee aftermarket.... I contacted Mishimoto and am waiting to hear back from them on the issue. They do have my foam, not my OEM radiator cap. Really trying to figure this problem out, because there is no reason my temps should be this high.

I still think you have air trapped in your system.

Did you or the shop physically check the thermostat?

 

[94SRUNNER]

@EPTX @Brandon Ryder @highonpottery any issues with your all aluminum Mishimoto radiators? Also, are you monitoring coolant temps via some type of digital gauge? What normal diving condition ranges are you seeing?

@highonpottery I know one of your previous posts said you appeared to be running 2-3* cooler than before. Is that still the case?

 

[parkeyjack]

I still think you have air trapped in your system.

Did you or the shop physically check the thermostat?

Thanks man. I told them it still sounded like air in the system asked them if they had a coolant vacuum.
He said “can you actually hear it?” To which I replied “No. Can’t hear it gurgling in the dash. It just sounds like air in the system...symptoms.” He then asked me if I would like to go with an OEM radiator. I feel like this guy is a stickler for OEM parts, which is good in my opinion. But I said “no. I would rather have my Mishimoto work.”
I asked him if maybe he could take a look at the thermostat and make sure it was in the 12 o’clock position. To which he rightfully replied. “We have done 100s of timing belts. Never had a problem.”
ok. Soooo what’s my problem then...
I raised the truck on rocks, elevating the front end quite a bit. Hoses feel stiff. Didn’t see any air bubbles during the 15 minutes I was warming it up to burp the system. Idk. Could be air in the system. We will see what Mishimoto suggests. Waiting to hear back from them. Thanks for all your help my dude.

 

[highonpottery]

@highonpottery I know one of your previous posts said you appeared to be running 2-3* cooler than before. Is that still the case?

I think so. Normally it would operate in the 185-199F range, depending on weather and where I'm driving. Drove up to the snow last weekend and it only got up to 183F going uphill; I want to say it would normally be at 189F on the same hill.

In regard to foam strips - I only installed the one foam strip along the top, front of radiator (where instructions said to install it) and it does touch the core support and fills that gap. I didn't put anything on the back-side of the radiator to fill gap against the fan shroud - figured I could always add one later and perhaps it was unnecessary since the stock radiator had similar gaps at top/bottom to the fan shroud.

I burped my system on slight incline with cap off, maybe 10 min and it definitely gurgled out quite a bit of air in the process.

 

[parkeyjack]

I think so. Normally it would operate in the 185-199F range, depending on weather and where I'm driving. Drove up to the snow last weekend and it only got up to 183F going uphill; I want to say it would normally be at 189F on the same hill.

In regard to foam strips - I only installed the one foam strip along the top, front of radiator (where instructions said to install it) and it does touch the core support and fills that gap. I didn't put anything on the back-side of the radiator to fill gap against the fan shroud - figured I could always add one later and perhaps it was unnecessary since the stock radiator had similar gaps at top/bottom to the fan shroud.

I burped my system on slight incline with cap off, maybe 10 min and it definitely gurgled out quite a bit of air in the process.

Nice to know man. Seems like I’m running quite hot as it gets up to 200 pretty easy on the highway going 70 mph. In temps around lower 60s... no incline.

 

[94SRUNNER]

Thanks man. I told them it still sounded like air in the system asked them if they had a coolant vacuum.
He said “can you actually hear it?” To which I replied “No. Can’t hear it gurgling in the dash. It just sounds like air in the system...symptoms.” He then asked me if I would like to go with an OEM radiator. I feel like this guy is a stickler for OEM parts, which is good in my opinion. But I said “no. I would rather have my Mishimoto work.”
I asked him if maybe he could take a look at the thermostat and make sure it was in the 12 o’clock position. To which he rightfully replied. “We have done 100s of timing belts. Never had a problem.”
ok. Soooo what’s my problem then...
I raised the truck on rocks, elevating the front end quite a bit. Hoses feel stiff. Didn’t see any air bubbles during the 15 minutes I was warming it up to burp the system. Idk. Could be air in the system. We will see what Mishimoto suggests. Waiting to hear back from them. Thanks for all your help my dude.

I appreciate hearing that your shop likes to use OEM parts, I dont hear that a lot.

As having air in the system, in my experience, you do not always hear it. I still think it might have some trapped. Are you running is with the front and rear heat on full blast.

And in regards to the thermostat, just because they have done hundreds of the timing belt jobs, doesnt mean they can't make a mistake. If it were me, I would pull it out and look at it yourself.

 

[abuck99]

Agree- Id be inclined to check their work.

First monitor for a few more days- check under your radiator cap 1st thing in the morning when engine is cold to be sure radiator is full to top of the neck. Also make note of and keep an eye on coolant overflow bottle levels (hot and cold) to make sure the cap is working correctly.

Last resort if still running hotter than you think it should- and this will prob void what ever labor warranty you have with shop that did the install- but Id want to double check their work and ensure the thermostat was correctly positioned.

Partially drain off the radiator into a clean (large) bucket, enough to drain the upper and lower hose off, (you also might pull the accessory belt off before you do this as not to get coolant on it) then pull the thermostat housing and make sure the thermostat is installed in the right direction, and the jiggle valve is 12oclock position. If its installed correctly, bob’s your uncle. If its not, snap a photo and take it to the service shop. Button back up.

Burping process can be a little time consuming, front and rear heaters on full hot, front end raised up (12” or more)- or use one of these no spill funnel kits- these work great for burping.
Amazon product ASIN B01A2CQSU6

 

[94SRUNNER]

Agree- Id be inclined to check their work.

First monitor for a few more days- check under your radiator cap 1st thing in the morning when engine is cold to be sure radiator is full to top of the neck. Also make note of and keep an eye on coolant overflow bottle levels (hot and cold) to make sure the cap is working correctly.

Last resort if still running hotter than you think it should- and this will prob void what ever labor warranty you have with shop that did the install- but Id want to double check their work and ensure the thermostat was correctly positioned.

Partially drain off the radiator into a clean (large) bucket, enough to drain the upper and lower hose off, (you also might pull the accessory belt off before you do this as not to get coolant on it) then pull the thermostat housing and make sure the thermostat is installed in the right direction, and the jiggle valve is 12oclock position. If its in correctly, bob’s your uncle. If its not, snap a photo and take it to the service shop. Button back up.

Burping process can be a little time consuming, front and rear heaters on full hot, front end raised up (12” or more)- or use one of these no spill funnel kits- these work great for burping.
Amazon product ASIN B01A2CQSU6

Yes. My thoughts exactly

 

[nspindel]

Keeping an eye on this thread. Seriously considering the Mishimoto but I want to see this issue resolved.

 

[parkeyjack]

Keeping an eye on this thread. Seriously considering the Mishimoto but I want to see this issue resolved.

I wouldn’t discourage the purchase of my Mishimoto. Only reason I forked over the extra 3hundo is cause I heard you can’t really get an OEM radiator. Denso was not the original it was it? Thought it was a company starting with a “T”... I could be off on that.
Anyways. Gonna keep an eye on it while Mishimoto takes there time to get back with me. Anyways I just looked under the radiator cap and had to add some more fluid. Hoping this is a good sign radiator was not burped correctly??? About a cups worth. Am I correct to assume this @94SRUNNER ???

 

[94SRUNNER]

I wouldn’t discourage the purchase of my Mishimoto. Only reason I forked over the extra 3hundo is cause I heard you can’t really get an OEM radiator. Denso was not the original it was it? Thought it was a company starting with a “T”... I could be off on that.
Anyways. Gonna keep an eye on it while Mishimoto takes there time to get back with me. Anyways I just looked under the radiator cap and had to add some more fluid. Hoping this is a good sign radiator was not burped correctly??? About a cups worth. Am I correct to assume this @94SRUNNER ???

I would say that is a good sign that there was air in the system if it was not up to the neck.

 

[parkeyjack]

I would say that is a good sign that there was air in the system if it was not up to the neck.

Hell yeah! We will see tomorrow! Hopefully I got this simple ass problem solved. To be continued...

 

[nspindel]

I get my LC serviced at a shop called Toy House in Tampa. They’ve been there for decades and all they do is Toyota and Lexus, hence the name. Google their reviews....

I spoke to the owner today, he had very good things to say about the Mishimoto and confirmed that the OEM radiator you get from Mr. T today is definitely not the same quality as factory. He thought there were less expensive options that I could go with for the kind of driving we do, but I said I’m happy to overdo the cooling. He’s got a Mishimoto rep he’s checking pricing with to see if he can get it cheaper than the online prices. But I’m going all in on all aluminum.

 

[neoworm]

I spoke to the owner today, he had very good things to say about the Mishimoto and confirmed that the OEM radiator you get from Mr. T today is definitely not the same quality as factory.

I can attest to that. My OEM rad leaked as soon as I put it in. On my third rad inside a year now.

First the Denso, now the OEM. Second OEM on order. We'll see how good that one is.

 

[2001LC]

When replacing radiators a few thinks must be kept in mind.
Best practice:

1. Flush system first. At minimum drain block and blow out system.
2. Clean fins of other radiators in front (A/C & trans oil) of engine radiator.
3. Toyota coolant spec for your year, is best.
4. OEM thermostat (jiggle valve up) & gasket.
5. OEM radiator cap, or cap that comes with new radiator.
6. New OEM upper and lower hoses.
7. Replace sides and top foam.
8. **Make sure reservoir hoses and cap, does not have obstruction blocking flow. **
9. Burp air from system, after 8 hour cool down (reach full op temp and run at 2,500 RPM with all heaters to hot) by topping radiator under cap when OAT at lowest for the morning, with front of vehicle higher than rear.
10. Repeat burping air from coolant system daily, until radiator does not take one drop more. Cabin heat both front & rear should blow very hot once air out of their cores.

Additional check:

1. Test fan clutch for proper operation.
2. Clean MAF & throttle body
3. Eliminate all vacuum leaks, including those from ideal up (vacuum lines from vane pump, PCV system & oil fill cap.
4. Good and tight spark plugs & coils/boots
5. Good fuel filter & fuel pressure.
6. Check transmission fluid level and condition.
7. Check oil level & condition.