Best replacement radiator for the money today...

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If I had the choice (Not shipped) in front of me of a plastic OEM or All Aluminum aftermarket that had great reviews with excellent fit to Oem hoses and bolted right up- I’d definitely have a difficult time with that choice. Tho that’s a lot of variables to line up. I’m just surprised Toyota didn’t offer a All aluminum as original equipment- repairable more so than a cracked plastic in my opinion. Then again they did have issues with the 200 radiators if my memory serves me correctly, so it’s not like they are perfect.
Regardless- helpful thread to say the least.
 
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Mishimoto is in. Everything went pretty smooth, passenger side upper holes ever so slightly off vertically but was able to get bolts in without any modifications. I used the supplied hardware, just adding Loctite since they’re not with the lock washer. Only drained about a gallon of coolant but it took over 2.5 to fill ‘er up. Everything seems good, I’m happy.

Stock radiator was super caked with funk and the plastic was a ticking time bomb — just like the heater tees when I changed those, super brittle plastic that I could crumble with my fingers. Like I thought, my radiator failure was on the plastic tank along the top front, but evidence of caked coolant dried along whole perimeter. Glad I just got the all-aluminum replacement....and it looks cool 😎
 
If you are worried. Just reach out to Mishimoto, they have good customer service IMO..
 
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Mishimoto is in. Everything went pretty smooth, passenger side upper holes ever so slightly off vertically but was able to get bolts in without any modifications. I used the supplied hardware, just adding Loctite since they’re not with the lock washer. Only drained about a gallon of coolant but it took over 2.5 to fill ‘er up. Everything seems good, I’m happy.

Stock radiator was super caked with funk and the plastic was a ticking time bomb — just like the heater tees when I changed those, super brittle plastic that I could crumble with my fingers. Like I thought, my radiator failure was on the plastic tank along the top front, but evidence of caked coolant dried along whole perimeter. Glad I just got the all-aluminum replacement....and it looks cool 😎
Curious. Are you monitoring engine coolant temps with a digital gauge (ScanGauge, Torque App, etc...)? If so, any difference over stock?
 
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Did yours come with this cutout???
Yeah it did, on both sides but one side top half, the other bottom. I thought it looked strange but it’s not leaking so I dunno what the heck it’s there for 🤷🏽‍♂️

In regard to temperatures - I keep a scan gauge hooked up at all times and it did appear to be a few degrees lower, not a lot but at least 2-3 on the test drive I took earlier
 
@highonpottery and others who went Mishimoto aluminum rads, do those rads have the trans cooler in the bottom tank? If yes, all fittings work no issues? If no coolers, are you running a separate air cooler for the trans?
 
@highonpottery and others who went Mishimoto aluminum rads, do those rads have the trans cooler in the bottom tank? If yes, all fittings work no issues? If no coolers, are you running a separate air cooler for the trans?
Yes, they have them. No fitment issues.
 
My Koyo rad was a good one, no issues and the fit was perfect, craftmanship looks great as well and i didn't have any bent fins. Very happy overall and it survived the nasty heat wave we had over the summer.

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Will this Koyo rad fit a 2004 LX470, or is it for "98-02" models?
 
Will this Koyo rad fit a 2004 LX470, or is it for "98-02" models?


I'm not 100% sure, does anyone know the difference between the years? I thought they were all the same rads.
 
Well. Got my radiator installed yesterday, along with TB WP new thermostat, was running 190 fWT consistently on cracked rad. On my way back home I saw temps reaching 200 with my shiny new aluminum rad. So it seems the shop did not burp the system correctly. Also did yours come with a strip of plastic or foam to put over the top half and new bolts. Looks like they used the old bolts.

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Well. Got my radiator installed yesterday, along with TB WP new thermostat, was running 190 fWT consistently on cracked rad. On my way back home I saw temps reaching 200 with my shiny new aluminum rad. So it seems the shop did not burp the system correctly. Also did yours come with a strip of plastic or foam to put over the top half and new bolts. Looks like they used the old bolts.

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@parkeyjack i think I responded to your Facebook post as well. Mine has the foam top seal. IMO it serves an important purpose to seek off the top gap and insure proper airflow. If your shop didn’t install it, I’d ask them if they still have it and if not, then reach out to Mishimoto and let them know your situation and see if you can get a replacement. Otherwise there is a thread or two that has recommendations for good foam to use.
 
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@parkeyjack any updates?
 
@parkeyjack any updates?
Not yet. Just spoke with the shop so gonna see if they can take a look.
You have a 100 series right? And you also have the Mishimoto correct? Whats your temps looking like? Just really weird it was 190 fWT all day for me before new radiator and now its running 10 degrees hotter. I would think that the Mishimoto would keep it a bit cooler correct?
 
Not yet. Just spoke with the shop so gonna see if they can take a look.
You have a 100 series right? And you also have the Mishimoto correct? Whats your temps looking like? Just really weird it was 190 fWT all day for me before new radiator and now its running 10 degrees hotter. I would think that the Mishimoto would keep it a bit cooler correct?

It should be the same or a few degrees cooler.

You are correct I do I have a 100 and a Mishimoto radiator, however I have you to install it. That said, I have read of other installing it and not having any issues with it.

It still seems that you have air in the system. You may want to see if the shop can use a coolant vacuum to pull out any lingering air from the system. Did you pull the thermostat to insure it was installed correctly (jiggle valve at 12 o'clock). Is your radiator cap an OEM unit?
 
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