On left and right sides too.
Best replacement radiator for the money today... (3 Viewers)
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On left and right sides too.
Replaced my radiator this weekend with new CSF. 3 x flush with distilled water before installing the new Rad and filling with Toyota long life red.
Good to know - none of those were replaced. Worth adding these now or just roll without?
It depends on how you use your vehicle. Do you need better airflow for cooling? I replaced mine when I installed new radiator for long idling time on a hot day or pulling long steep grades occasions.
Can someone post a pictures of the foam pieces? I don't see any on my 02 and am wondering if it would help with my temps towing up the mountains.
curious why you flushed with distilled water?
Not sure how long it had been since getting old fluid out of the heater core. Since I was in there wanted to start fresh with new fluid throughout. If I am not mistaken even when you drain the via the block drains there is still about 1 gallon of fluid still in the system. 4 total. I was getting right at 3 with every flush. As far as I am aware the 50/50 mix is distilled water with Toyota red. So I purchased a gallon of non diluted and 2 gallons of 50/50 to button everything up. Actually needed a little more than 2 Gallons so had to pick up a third.
Way off.
- Toyota OE, purchased from Toyota (made by Toyo Rad/T.Rad, not denso, cannot be purchased from an aftermarket parts supplier only toyota) is overpriced and still has had some issues, mexico one comes with foam already attached for the low low price of $600
- CSF seems to be both the best priced, available, and the most reliable but be careful with shipping
- Koyo, Denso, and others have been ok but availability and batch quality seem to have been hit or miss with most people saying they worked fine but a brief period of people saying they had leaks where the plastic meets the aluminum right out of the box
- As of yet no mass produced proven all aluminum radiator
further:
- some have reported leaking at lower house with different combinations of radiators and hoses, does not seem to be a problem for those who use the adjustable McMasterCarr clamps
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"Way off" ok, maybe my point. After Toyota OE, there's very little consensus on the quality of available radiators. With some shopping you can get the OE for <$400.00
I really like the idea of a quality aluminum radiator, but, the ones I can find that at least address quality/performance are $500+
I would go back and look at some of the OE post, theres no consensus on Toyota OE quality. Availability has been spotty and sourcing questionable. The most unanimous vote from experienced people on here seems to be for CSF, koyo somewhere behind that, and Denso below that.
I believe there was also report of Toyota dealerships putting in CSF or other radiators as well and only did OEM if specifically requested.
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I would disagree on your assessment of the OE quality rads, those that are sold in the Toyota box I have not heard one complaint. (I read maybe the last 1.5 yrs on this thread), there are some people who have "heard" that some Toyota service departments substitute CSF for the Toyota version to their customers (I'll let others judge what they think of this practice, IMHO, not cool). Someone opined that the "original" supplier has changed, but I don't recall seeing a new OE radiator installed that has leaked in less than a year.
If the CSF are "pretty good" at ~$200 vs. $400 for the OE, I'm good for the OE version.
If the CSF are "pretty good" at ~$200 vs. $400 for the OE, I'm good for the OE version.
Well, the thread topic is "Best Replacement Radiator for the Money". I got the CSF for $120 off rock auto, $280 extra is a lot to pay for the warm fuzzies that you bought OEM, but this is often the Toyota/Land Cruiser way. Its understandable that sometimes you just want to pay the money and not worry about it ever again.
But I also put the NAPA CV's on mine so....
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- #414
I've found OEM to be of top shelve quality and fitment. But we do have other choices in radiators. But in all cases, when replacing radiator. Best practice; Flush coolant system and fill with fresh OEM coolant, install new OEM thermostat & gasket and radiator cap (OEM is made by T/Rad, and comes with cap).
One budget minded option is CSF, but there are many form sub $100 (I'd not use) to high dollar all aluminium:
Local Toyota Dealership uses CSF when customer would like a less expensive option than OEM. The CSF needs foam swapped over, which means cutting and gluing. So the mechanic installing, does have more time into the CSF job, if replace the foam (most will not). CSF fitment is good, although the goose neck are just a tad smaller diameter. They weep just a drop or two at lower hose, due to a ridge. The ridge needs filled with FIPG (FIPG 1282B best), to stop the weep.
CSF radiator lower goose neck File & Fill casting ridge, and let cure before adding hose.
OEM is the best choice IMHO. Fitment is perfect, quality top shelve, installation is faster and no weeps or issue whatsoever. They come with cap, which does not always seals as well, as new Toyota parts department cap. So check for sung fit!
OEM comes with top and side foam, a fit without any modification.
Most times we do not replace lower foam.
Foam on #1 skid promotes rust of skid if not replaced every 4 to 5 years.
Bottom foam breaks down over time, becoming a sponge. New, cell are closed.
Tip:
Rinse radiators fins (condenser & oil cooler) fins before begin job, if working indoors.
forum.ih8mud.com
Most important:
1) Burp air from the system over next few days. Make sure radiator filled to the very top and reservoir has proper level. Also that reservoir hose clear of obstruction and drops straight to bottom of reservoir.
2) Top transmission: Worst case we lose ~2 cups, unless one doesn't plug lines.
In 2004-07, top while transmission fluid temp 97F to 115f (TSB). I like at 97F ~ 100F, which sets to fullest recommend level.
98-03 OM states "normal operating temp". FSM states 158-176F, which I find hard to reach in a good transmission. I read temp through tech stream. In 06-07 we read AT 1 (we see AT 1 & AT 2). Some use and infrared temp gun on bottom of pan. Doing so we need to get the gun within ~3 " of center of pan. Also be aware OAT and reflected heat from ground, affect the temp reading with a gun.
One budget minded option is CSF, but there are many form sub $100 (I'd not use) to high dollar all aluminium:
Local Toyota Dealership uses CSF when customer would like a less expensive option than OEM. The CSF needs foam swapped over, which means cutting and gluing. So the mechanic installing, does have more time into the CSF job, if replace the foam (most will not). CSF fitment is good, although the goose neck are just a tad smaller diameter. They weep just a drop or two at lower hose, due to a ridge. The ridge needs filled with FIPG (FIPG 1282B best), to stop the weep.
CSF radiator lower goose neck File & Fill casting ridge, and let cure before adding hose.
OEM is the best choice IMHO. Fitment is perfect, quality top shelve, installation is faster and no weeps or issue whatsoever. They come with cap, which does not always seals as well, as new Toyota parts department cap. So check for sung fit!
OEM comes with top and side foam, a fit without any modification.
Most times we do not replace lower foam.
Foam on #1 skid promotes rust of skid if not replaced every 4 to 5 years.
Bottom foam breaks down over time, becoming a sponge. New, cell are closed.
Tip:
Rinse radiators fins (condenser & oil cooler) fins before begin job, if working indoors.
Radiator fins need cleaning! Alert Alert Alert
I've a 06LC w/192K I just bought. In reading history I found PO complained of engine temp raising when both front and rear AC on. Toyota Dealership diagnosed with clogged radiator fins. Recommended new OEM radiator, $600 for the US spec Radaitor plus coolant and labor. They should have added...
forum.ih8mud.com
Most important:
1) Burp air from the system over next few days. Make sure radiator filled to the very top and reservoir has proper level. Also that reservoir hose clear of obstruction and drops straight to bottom of reservoir.
2) Top transmission: Worst case we lose ~2 cups, unless one doesn't plug lines.
In 2004-07, top while transmission fluid temp 97F to 115f (TSB). I like at 97F ~ 100F, which sets to fullest recommend level.
98-03 OM states "normal operating temp". FSM states 158-176F, which I find hard to reach in a good transmission. I read temp through tech stream. In 06-07 we read AT 1 (we see AT 1 & AT 2). Some use and infrared temp gun on bottom of pan. Doing so we need to get the gun within ~3 " of center of pan. Also be aware OAT and reflected heat from ground, affect the temp reading with a gun.
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Thanks for posting those pics.Toyota Dealership parts department, I've used for for 20 years, informed me, their shop uses CSF. But that is when customer would like a less expensive option than OEM. It all depends on what the service manager writes on the service order. The CSF needs foam swapping over. So the mechanic installing, does have more hours into the CSF job, if/when swapping foam. But it's fitment is good, although the goose neck are just a tad smaller diameter. So even with new OEM hoses (best) and OEM clamps (best). The do sometime weep just a drop or two at lower hose bottom fitting.
In OEM we've 2 choices in the USA (other country have other choices). One is U. S. spec, the other MX spec. Only difference (from what I can tell) is environmental standard (manufacturing process) they're built to. Function, fitment, look are the same. BTW the MX spec, is now coming with a rad cap. But I personally don't like the cap. I've tested them and cap seal to daylight, does not hold as well as a new OEM cap from Japan. With OEM radiator, hoses, clamps and cap fitment is spot-on and installation faster. No weeps or issue whatsoever.
Used car department uses a less expensive brand than CSF, I don't recall which one.
Foam:
Foam on sides and top is believed to aid in cooling. It helps direct air into radiator fins.
Note:
When replacing radiator. Best practice; new OEM coolant, thermostat & gasket and radiator cap. Any flushing should be done in advance.
Tip:
Clean radiators fins before begin job, if going to work in shop. Once engine radiator out, vacuum oil cooler radiator and AC condenser radiator, then below out with HP air. If working outdoors, than just wash oil cooler rad and condenser rad once engine rad removed.
Radiator fins need cleaning! Alert Alert Alert
I've a 06LC w/192K I just bought. In reading history I found PO complained of engine temp raising when both front and rear AC on. Toyota Dealership diagnosed with clogged radiator fins. Recommended new OEM radiator, $600 for the US spec Radaitor plus coolant and labor. They should have added...
Most important:
1) Burp air from the system over next few days. Make sure radiator filled to the very top and reservoir has proper level for current OAT and reservoir hose drops straight to bottom of reservoir. Also make sure reservoir hose has no obstruction.
2) Top transmission: best case we lose 1 or 2 cups. If 2003 up top while transmission fluid temp 97F to 105f is best (TSB: 97f to 115F)
Somehow this reservoir hose cap became plugged on rad side.
View attachment 2432408
Foam on top and sides, bottom.
View attachment 2432354
Foam on #1 skid promotes rust of skid if not replaced every 4 to 5 years.
View attachment 2432365
Bottom foam breaks down over time, becoming a sponge.
View attachment 2432369
New, cell are closed.
View attachment 2432370
- Thread starter
- #418
Many suggestion in this thread, on various foam options. Me, I transfer old to new, when not using OEM radiator.
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Just an FYI. I replaced with a Denso rad last winter and it has started leaking from the oil cooler. Less than a year old.
OEM on order. Original OEM rad lasted 17 years and was still working when I removed it. I should have known better than to try and save a few bucks. Never seems to work out.
OEM on order. Original OEM rad lasted 17 years and was still working when I removed it. I should have known better than to try and save a few bucks. Never seems to work out.
Yes, OE Toyota is expensive. However perfect fit and function out of them box. New foam and side brackets included. Original radiator lasted 17 years. I don’t mind paying for the Toyota rad if I can get another 17 years out of it. Local dealer price matched the best online price I could find - $475. Added new hoses and cap and refilled with fresh Toyota red.
Local dealer looked for the Mexico spec radiator others have mentioned - however no availability. US spec was in stock at their local distribution center.
Local dealer looked for the Mexico spec radiator others have mentioned - however no availability. US spec was in stock at their local distribution center.
