Best replacement radiator for the money today... (3 Viewers)

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I always swap the foam from old radiator side. I also cut off top foam and glue to my new radiator.


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A little weight while adhesive sets up.
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OEM come with foam and saves time, but at higher cost.
Additionally I R&R cap, thermostat and hoses. Tees if not done and flush once while old in first.
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If radiator not cooling as well, it's dirty. The inside will be in great shape if Toyota recommended service guide-line followed.. But what I find in every inspect, once skid plate pulled. The radiator fins are clogged.

Cleaning the fins is a Toyota recommendation most never do!
Is there a certain type of adhesive to use, or maybe more importantly, any type to avoid? I don’t want to damage the plastic, or get some that may run down to the fins when heated.
 
3M contact adhesive that list plastic as at least one of the uses. I've also used FIPG 102, 103 (Toyota oil) and FIPG 1282B (Toyota coolant)
 
Stay away from TYC. I had two brand new radiators leak within a week of installing. Went with CSF and just put 2500 miles on it and never had an issue.
 
3M contact adhesive that list plastic as at least one of the uses. I've also used FIPG 102, 103 (Toyota oil) and FIPG 1282B (Toyota coolant)
Thanks
 
Yes, OE Toyota is expensive. However perfect fit and function out of them box. New foam and side brackets included. Original radiator lasted 17 years. I don’t mind paying for the Toyota rad if I can get another 17 years out of it. Local dealer price matched the best online price I could find - $475. Added new hoses and cap and refilled with fresh Toyota red.

Local dealer looked for the Mexico spec radiator others have mentioned - however no availability. US spec was in stock at their local distribution center.
Ya I agree but for you guys in the states it's a difference of a few hundred dollars. Up here in Canuckistan they want $1200 for an OE rad and the Denso was $180. So for that kind of difference you can see how you get sucked into giving it a shot.
 
Ya I agree but for you guys in the states it's a difference of a few hundred dollars. Up here in Canuckistan they want $1200 for an OE rad and the Denso was $180. So for that kind of difference you can see how you get sucked into giving it a shot.
$1200 How is it they can ask for that much money? I guess they can seeing how you don’t have to buy from them. Man, that is just crazy
 
Ya we get bent over on OE parts up here. I live close enough to the border that I usually buy my parts in the US and have them shipped to a mailbox at the border.

However Toyota's got me by the nuts with the border closure.
 
I stopped by Menards (closest hardware store) and I didn't see any 3M contact adhesive. I saw various contact adhesives, but most list varying types of plastics to avoid. So can someone provide a link of what they use, or tell me what type of plastic the rad tanks are made of? This should be simple, but I don't want to weaken the plastic. I'm tempted to use my oldest son's hot glue gun and just put a very small bead down the middle.
 

@abuck99 posted this in the 2UZ-FE Normal Operating Temperature thread and it caused a diversion off topic. So we thought it better to post here.

Has anyone tried this radiator yet? I am interested. I've heard good things about Mishimoto radiators in general. I was encouraged to see that on their website they actually show one installed in a 100.

Thoughts on the higher psi rad cap?

Thoughts in general on this radiator?
 

@abuck99 posted this in the 2UZ-FE Normal Operating Temperature thread and it caused a diversion off topic. So we thought it better to post here.

Has anyone tried this radiator yet? I am interested. I've heard good things about Mishimoto radiators in general. I was encouraged to see that on their website they actually show one installed in a 100.

Thoughts on the higher psi rad cap?

Thoughts in general on this radiator?
1.) Lifetime warranty- ☑
2.) Welded aluminum tanks better than plastic ☑
3.) Larger coolant capacity ☑

Questions:
>Higher pressure cap>>1.3 bar= 18.85psi vs OEM 1.1bar @15.95psi: 3 psi variance: IDK how much negative impact would that cause. Higher PSI cap might allow for a hotter running engine>>more pressure in cooling system>> but does 3psi translate into greater system pressure at hoses and fittings; causing reduced life of hoses or potential of leaks in other components of an aging cooling system? I think I'd prefer a stock 1,1bar equivalent .

>Will it fit into the current radiator mounting braces with out any mods?

>Will the hoses fit the outlets snug with out leaks?

>Measurements, especially stated Overall Width (depth). They state overall 6.1 inches wide (deep) not sure what they are factoring in this measurement as the core is stated at 2.2". OEM radiator and fan shroud combined are about 6.75". Is the shroud position same as OEM where fan resides inside the shroud? If radiator core is closer to fan- then fan flex or engine flex might contact, if its farther away it will draw less air volume and not cool as efficiently.

If I still had my old radiator I could take better measurements and compare against these specs- (if anyone had their radiator removed could you post relevant measurements in comparison to the MM radiator below)
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I stopped by Menards (closest hardware store) and I didn't see any 3M contact adhesive. I saw various contact adhesives, but most list varying types of plastics to avoid. So can someone provide a link of what they use, or tell me what type of plastic the rad tanks are made of? This should be simple, but I don't want to weaken the plastic. I'm tempted to use my oldest son's hot glue gun and just put a very small bead down the middle.
I found most Auto Parts stores carry it. I use 3M Weatherstrip adhesive for a lot of stuff.
 
I am getting more and more interested in the Mishimoto radiator. I did reach out to Mishimoto about whether or not an OEM radiator would fit and said "do not show that the OEM cap is compatible with our radiator". I also asked for a close up picture of what the neck looked like without the cap and they provided a link to just the neck piece that is used on the 100 Series spec radiator. Link - Mishimoto Aluminum Fill Neck, Small

I figured the price was worth picking one up to test the OEM cap compatibility ($20 on Amazon). It showed up yesterday and the OEM cap fits nice and tight.
 
I'm taking the leap of faith. I just placed an order for one on pre-sale. I talked with them and they say they are in manufacturing now, and should ship mid-to-late this month. Supposedly, since they have years of experience making an oem style radiator (aluminum body with plastic) for the LC100, this new all metal one should bolt up to all stock components (fan shroud, AT, etc) cleanly. We'll see how true that is once I get it installed.

If there's anything anyone is particularly interested in me reporting on (fitment, size, distance of fan-to-radiator, etc) just let me know.
 
I'm taking the leap of faith. I just placed an order for one on pre-sale. I talked with them and they say they are in manufacturing now, and should ship mid-to-late this month. Supposedly, since they have years of experience making an oem style radiator (aluminum body with plastic) for the LC100, this new all metal one should bolt up to all stock components (fan shroud, AT, etc) cleanly. We'll see how true that is once I get it installed.

If there's anything anyone is particularly interested in me reporting on (fitment, size, distance of fan-to-radiator, etc) just let me know.
Yeah please report back regarding as much as you want to relay about your install, any issues pro's con's etc. In fact- if you have a scanguage or bluetooth app based reader it would be great to monitor and make note of before and after engine coolant temps- city & highway, what if any stage of build you have on your truck, mileage etc.
 
Thoughts on the higher psi rad cap?
I'm not sure why we (stock 2uz-fe) would want to use a higher psi cap. The engine and matched cooling capacity is tried and true all around the world... even in the hottest areas. A lot of racers use higher PSI cap because they run 100% water vs a coolant mix that has a higher boiling point. A radiator cap relieves pressure in the system. What does the rest of the system think about this (i.e. 22 year old heater core)?
 
I'm not sure why we (stock 2uz-fe) would want to use a higher psi cap. The engine and matched cooling capacity is tried and true all around the world... even in the hottest areas. A lot of racers use higher PSI cap because they run 100% water vs a coolant mix that has a higher boiling point. A radiator cap relieves pressure in the system. What does the rest of the system think about this (i.e. 22 year old heater core)?

That was my line of thinking, which is why I was concerned about whether or not the OEM cap fits. Which it does.
 
Thats a good proactive test on the cap fit- 👍
 
I found most Auto Parts stores carry it. I use 3M Weatherstrip adhesive for a lot of stuff.
Thanks. I found a half used tube of Gorilla contact cement and already put it on. Time will tell me if it was a mistake or not.
 
Thanks. I found a half used tube of Gorilla contact cement and already put it on. Time will tell me if it was a mistake or not.
It will be an interesting test, as there are a some solvents (spills) and vapors of solvents floating around in the engine compartment. Gorilla not spec'ed for those conditions while 3M Weatherstrip Adhesive is. The Gorilla should last quite awhile as should only be small quantities getting to it.

  • 3M - Resists oils, solvents, detergents and temperature changes for permanent repairs
 

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