Best diesel engine for land cruiser (1 Viewer)

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That's a 1HD-T in the picture (not a 1hz)

1HZ is multi valve, was not factory turbo. The 1HZ variety with turbo was called 1hd-fte

the engine in the picture is a 1HZ (factory turbo or not, don't ask me though). The injectors and glow plug configuration are different on the 1HD-T. The 1HZ and 1HD are 12V where as the -F variants are 24V ie: 1HD-FT, 1HD-FTE.
 
sorry but will somebody answer my question:
why diesel?
Economy?
Torque?
Because most on this forum are in the US, and diesel LC/LX are unavailable here. Unobtanium is always "really cool". Economy: maybe, if a diesel variant is available, but a diesel swap is not for economy, most will spend way more on the conversion than they will ever see in fuel $$ savings.
so if in my case, I have a lx450 the only thing i have to change is the motor or anything else!

If you are asking that question, plan at least $20k for someone to do the job right. IIRC, Profits Cruisers charges ~$24K to convert to Cummins diesel.
 
If you're in the states and if you want toyota, get a Hino J05D-T out of an 05+ UD or 05+ Hino box truck. The motor will work with the stock 80 transfer/driveline if you build a hybrid AW450-43LE/A442F transmission. It is a 4cyl diesel that puts out 375lb-ft of torque, the swap will cost you less than a 1HD/1HZ, and parts are readily available here.

Then there's also the Mitsu 4D34, Nissan FD46TA, and Isuzu 4HE1 options out of 99-04 Fuso, UD, Isuzu/GMC Box Trucks, respectively, which all share the same Aisin AW450-43LE trans (A fully electronic beefed up A442F).

I really believe these engines are the future of 80 series diesel conversions in the US. Check out the Diesel section for more info...
 
That's a 1HD-T in the picture (not a 1hz)

1HZ is multi valve, was not factory turbo. The 1HZ variety with turbo was called 1hd-fte

Thats incorrect the 1HZ is non turbo from the factory, aftermarket turbo kits are almost a given on most 1HZs in Australia, but they arent the same as the HD series engines (1HDT 1HDFT 1HDFTE) The 1HZ has much smaller internals and is no where near as strong as the HD series, without going overboard on detail, its designed to be NA and the HD series are built for turbos. HZ is not a multivalve either

Imo theres no better conversion than an FTE into an 80 series, although its not very common in Aus as most already have a 1HDT or 1HDFT in them, so its not really worth it just for the electronics. However there are a few build ups on Lcool that detail it all.
 
When I was in Japan last year at the LC plant, all of the 1HZ's coming off the line were non-turbo.

The only factory turbo I saw was the 1VD engine....beautiful piece of work.

Interestingly, all of these engines (including the 1FZ/3F-E/2F/2H/3B, basically all former and current LC engines) are built by Toyota Industries...which builds forklifts!

:lol:

The 1HD series of engines are no longer use in passenger vehicle applications. They are strictly used for marine and industrial applications.
 
1HZ+TI
HDT
stay away from any "E" series engines

there was a 3B+T in an 80 on a run here and it performed fine. it won't be a rocket but it will do you just fine.

talk to Sheldon from G&S for his suggestions, he has done a few swaps now.

the new V8 diesel is having its own set of issues in Oz, wait a bit before jumping the gun on that one.
 
you said it, needs ECU to run. why complicate a perfectly good engine?

plus, IT SEEMS any TOYOTA diesel with an E ends up an engine with problems...
and if they do go sideways it is never an easy or cheap fix.
i real life, fuel economy is usually worse than the non-E variant,

for your enjoyment Toyota, in their almightly wisdom, is adding an E to the end of their 1HZ in 2012 (or somewhere around there)
so
they are going to screw up one of the best engines they make today.

plus, Toyota, rumor has it, is only stocking parts for 10 years before becoming obsolete. so if the pump or one of the senders goes obsolete then what are you going to do?

for me, i do engine swaps and custom builds on cruisers, i NEVER recommend a complicated engine to be swapped into a customers truck. simple seems to work to both the customers and my benefit.

but

if you feel comfortable then by all means...

that engine, to me, is NOT cruiser porn.
 
All Japanese diesels are expensive to work on in the states. If the parts were readily available , then they would be cheap to work on. Since we are in the states, i would find a domestic diesel.
There are alot to choose from. Ford,Chevy,Dodge, Perkins, International, John Deere,Cat,and many others. I would find a motor that has aftermarket support, if not custom making items would make you regret that diesel. The biggest obstacle in my opinion is driveline stress data not readily available. Nobody knows if turbo diesel power will grenade the transfer case. Someone has to be the first, i guess. I would replace both axles because they are suspect.. Electric isn't an issue.If you don't like wiring up stuff just get a diesel with mechanical pump.
 
I get it, it's easier to work on and the gain from an ECU controlled engine (especially diesel) is minimal. There's a big benefit though to an electronically controlled engine and that is optimal variations of inputs. The other important factor is troubleshooting. With an ECU, you can narrow down a problem using information from the engine, instead of starting from scratch.

I agree, that an ECU adds another level of complexity to an engine, and they can be troublesome. On the other hand, it will extend the life of said engine by controlling the inputs and preventing (or helping at least) it from destroying itself with an improper variant (like screwed up timing, bad injector, overboosting, etc).
 
for me, i do engine swaps and custom builds on cruisers, i NEVER recommend a complicated engine to be swapped into a customers truck. simple seems to work to both the customers and my benefit.

but if you feel comfortable then by all means...

that engine, to me, is NOT cruiser porn.

This is so right!! I have no intention of purchasing/using/relying on any diesel with electronics that is to be used in isolated areas. It was mentioned that the electronics help pinpoint a problem when it occurs....correct, the problem will be something electronic! When it come to solid cheap to run diesels (or any motor for that case) I avoid electronics like the plague. I have done conversion work in the past but it was all about getting a 454 chevy lump in a Ford Anglia for racing ect, buy a diesel and be happy.

regards

Dave
 
i agree to your statements
but
you can fool with a ECU and kill an engine just as easy as you can monkey with a non-"E" engine and kill it. the ECU doesn't make an engine last longer ... your right foot does.
and
to those that like "new is better" the E series is the way it is.
good luck with the sale and install, i am sure you will have a happy customer.
I get it, it's easier to work on and the gain from an ECU controlled engine (especially diesel) is minimal. There's a big benefit though to an electronically controlled engine and that is optimal variations of inputs. The other important factor is troubleshooting. With an ECU, you can narrow down a problem using information from the engine, instead of starting from scratch.

I agree, that an ECU adds another level of complexity to an engine, and they can be troublesome. On the other hand, it will extend the life of said engine by controlling the inputs and preventing (or helping at least) it from destroying itself with an improper variant (like screwed up timing, bad injector, overboosting, etc).
 
better question, if you had to narrow it down to the top 3 best diesel engines for DD/mild off roading/ camping/ mild hauling, what would you all pick? and y?
 
Wow, back from the dead thread! Look at availability, not cool factor. Toyota diesels are hard to find, and the most available is the 1HZ and 1HD-T. If you want cool factor you can hold out for a 1HD-FT or FTE. You can build a 1HD-T to get decent horsepower and torque as well, and they're not as hard to find.

My choice, 1HD-T, simply because they're more available and are just sweetheart engines to work on and service.
 
In the US, the best bang for the buck and easiest to find replacement parts, aftermarket support and best built engine is the cummins 6BT (12V fully mechanical) or the 24V ISB. This is the way I will be going as soon as the conversion kit diesel adapapters is putting together is put into production.
 
I have heard that but I dont think they have the same power to 6bt? Plus I live in NA arent those hard to find since they weren't offered in most vehicles here?
Id probably go for the hdft since it had more power. Electronic motors scare me
 
ISB has more power from the factory than a 6BT, or any of the yota diesels. The electronics are very stand alone and only control the VP44 injection pump timing and duration. On the flip side the newer cummins common rail engines are completely electronically controlled.

If you are living in North America, then in my opinion a cummins would be the way to go (power, reliability, cost, ease of maintenance and parts availability). If you live in Oz, then a cummins would be a bad choice as they are not common engines to come across there.

I am always a fan of sticking with toyota parts, but for me the ability to find replacement parts local and quickly will outweigh the "I have a toyota diesel" coolness factor....plus I have always had good luck with cummins engines.
 
Didn't you say, you don't have the body already? Sorry, coming in late. What about just buying a HD80 from Canada and paying for the import. Food for thought.
 

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