Builds Benjamin’s 3D Prints Build (2 Viewers)

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It is an interesting idea! With plastic? Plastic usually is not god for grip. Most shifter covers are made with over-molding, a rough plastic or rubber over rigid plastic. Can you post some more info? Thanks.

Here is what is out there for inspiration from AJT. I’m only calling them out because they already told me they aren’t interested in making these for 100 series LC.

They also have models with buttons on the side but these give the general idea. I think for ours the design would be more of a 2 piece front and back that screwed together at the middle seam.

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I’m actually reading and seeing the versions I posted are anodized aluminum. Is there a way to make something that would be viable in 3D print for our application?
 
Here is what is out there for inspiration from AJT. I’m only calling them out because they already told me they aren’t interested in making these for 100 series LC.

They also have models with buttons on the side but these give the general idea. I think for ours the design would be more of a 2 piece front and back that screwed together at the middle seam.

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I am wondering what they are not interested. Is it because the overdrive button?
 
I am wondering what they are not interested. Is it because the overdrive button?

I'd guess it's partly that, and partly because the knob shown is a simple screw-on type vs the more complex version in the 100. Early model (pre-03) 100s didn't have the screw on type, they were 'sleeves' that fit over a post, and had a realy PITA process to remove/replace them.

For later model (03+) trucks, just unscrew the factory knob and spin on whatever kind you want to replace it with.
 
I am wondering what they are not interested. Is it because the overdrive button?

Their only feedback was that they wouldn’t be able to develop anything for it. They don’t 3D print...then do injection molding. Maybe that’s why? I don’t understand enough to say. I could ask.
 
I'd guess it's partly that, and partly because the knob shown is a simple screw-on type vs the more complex version in the 100. Early model (pre-03) 100s didn't have the screw on type, they were 'sleeves' that fit over a post, and had a realy PITA process to remove/replace them.

For later model (03+) trucks, just unscrew the factory knob and spin on whatever kind you want to replace it with.
Right. I’m thinking though as I look at it, if you stripped off the leather (which I have) couldn’t someone make a “sleeve” that sits over everything and look fairly stock. At worst it would look like a cool aftermarket upgrade.

It’s just a PITA to remove overdrive etc to pull the whole shifter and replace and I’ve taken to many quality upholstery shops who say it will run north of $500 to stitch a new leather cover to it.
 
Right. I’m thinking though as I look at it, if you stripped off the leather (which I have) couldn’t someone make a “sleeve” that sits over everything and look fairly stock. At worst it would look like a cool aftermarket upgrade.

It’s just a PITA to remove overdrive etc to pull the whole shifter and replace and I’ve taken to many quality upholstery shops who say it will run north of $500 to stitch a new leather cover to it.
Wow I didn’t know it cost $500.
 
Right. I’m thinking though as I look at it, if you stripped off the leather (which I have) couldn’t someone make a “sleeve” that sits over everything and look fairly stock. At worst it would look like a cool aftermarket upgrade.

It’s just a PITA to remove overdrive etc to pull the whole shifter and replace and I’ve taken to many quality upholstery shops who say it will run north of $500 to stitch a new leather cover to it.

Holy crap. $500 to stitch new leather? I have a feeling you're talking to vendors who just don't want the job. That's egregious.

If I'm understanding your idea correctly, you're thinking of making a sleeve to go over the whole knob that's there now? Or removing the existing lever and replacing with a complete new part? If the former, that'd be one heck of a big lever. If the latter, then you're still going to need to remove/install the same type of small parts like buttons and springs as the OEM, which would beg the question, why not just put a new OEM one on there? Surely they can be found used for cheap. Then again, I may not be understanding your idea. Do you have a picture of the knob with the leather stripped off?

Years ago when I had an SC400, we had a similar issue. Earlier models like mine has a shift lever similar to what we're talking about here. There was one after market option but it looked super gaudy and ugly. Didn't fit the car at all. I wish someone made an alternative that didn't look like a leather wrapped horse dick.
 
Holy crap. $500 to stitch new leather? I have a feeling you're talking to vendors who just don't want the job. That's egregious.

If I'm understanding your idea correctly, you're thinking of making a sleeve to go over the whole knob that's there now? Or removing the existing lever and replacing with a complete new part? If the former, that'd be one heck of a big lever. If the latter, then you're still going to need to remove/install the same type of small parts like buttons and springs as the OEM, which would beg the question, why not just put a new OEM one on there? Surely they can be found used for cheap. Then again, I may not be understanding your idea. Do you have a picture of the knob with the leather stripped off?

Years ago when I had an SC400, we had a similar issue. Earlier models like mine has a shift lever similar to what we're talking about here. There was one after market option but it looked super gaudy and ugly. Didn't fit the car at all. I wish someone made an alternative that didn't look like a leather wrapped horse dick.

The reason for $500 quotes is that the method that is used (according to the upholstery shops) is a wet baseball stitching method requiring that the requires something be cut, the. Stretched over the knob, then hand stitched while it’s being stretched. I guess it’s time consuming and only a few artisans could pull it off and make it look good.

New oem only comes in the form of the entire shifter assembly which is north of $300. I have yet to find one from a junkyard on good shape.

When I pulled off the leather it basically looks exactly like the 80 series shifter only it’s rubber not vinyl.

I guess I didn’t think about how thick/large the shifter would be if it were made as a sleeve that fit over the existing rubber. If it could be done to use the stock shift button and expose the overdrive plate and buttons maybe it wouldn’t look too large? I really don’t know how thick these 3D or aluminum pieces need to be in order to be sturdy.

I also can’t imagine lack of demand since almost every 100 series I have seen has a ratty looking shifter and I see people pulling shifters off brand new trucks all the time to upgrade with something they think looks cooler/better/etc.
 
Holy crap. $500 to stitch new leather? I have a feeling you're talking to vendors who just don't want the job. That's egregious.

If I'm understanding your idea correctly, you're thinking of making a sleeve to go over the whole knob that's there now? Or removing the existing lever and replacing with a complete new part? If the former, that'd be one heck of a big lever. If the latter, then you're still going to need to remove/install the same type of small parts like buttons and springs as the OEM, which would beg the question, why not just put a new OEM one on there? Surely they can be found used for cheap. Then again, I may not be understanding your idea. Do you have a picture of the knob with the leather stripped off?

Years ago when I had an SC400, we had a similar issue. Earlier models like mine has a shift lever similar to what we're talking about here. There was one after market option but it looked super gaudy and ugly. Didn't fit the car at all. I wish someone made an alternative that didn't look like a leather wrapped horse dick.

Pics of the shifter without leather. Not bad but not great either.

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Bad news. Transmission might be gone.

I drove my friend from Columbus OH to Chicago. On the way back, about 150 miles from home, the truck downshifted to 3rd on freeway. I pulled over, shut down, restarted. It shifted to 4th but with metal to metal grinding noise then shifted down to 3rd, 2nd. Then engine reved up and no power to the wheel. I pulled over. Truck didn’t want to move in D or R. Called AAA and got towed back home.

2000 LC.

Any advice would be appreciated.
 
Bad news. Transmission might be gone.

I drove my friend from Columbus OH to Chicago. On the way back, about 150 miles from home, the truck downshifted to 3rd on freeway. I pulled over, shut down, restarted. It shifted to 4th but with metal to metal grinding noise then shifted down to 3rd, 2nd. Then engine reved up and no power to the wheel. I pulled over. Truck didn’t want to move in D or R. Called AAA and got towed back home.

2000 LC.

Any advice would be appreciated.
Shoot. That sucks. Sorry to hear it. I can't really offer any wisdom, but I have been happy to see the OEM four speed for ~$1900, which gave me much less dread at the prospect of an eventual replacement. If yours is roached, it's hard to imagine you can get too much done to it before it's cheaper to swap a new one in.
 
Shoot. That sucks. Sorry to hear it. I can't really offer any wisdom, but I have been happy to see the OEM four speed for ~$1900, which gave me much less dread at the prospect of an eventual replacement. If yours is roached, it's hard to imagine you can get too much done to it before it's cheaper to swap a new one in.
Bummer @BenCC ... When I started looking a few weeks ago I was informed of the 2000/2001 tranny issues. Looks like you have fallen prey to it. Sucks but hopefully what @Eyedaho says is true and a new reman'd unit is cheap.
 
Thanks. The plan is to make factor look grill that fits the fog light place and mounts two cube LEDs in each side.
My stock fog lights keep burning out. I believe it's the housing that keeps letting moisture in. Ive been searching for replacement sealed LED lights that would fit that space. Something brighter and more durable. I love all the bits you're making for the 100 series. I'll defiantly be buying some items as I work on this build. Until then, I'll keep up the search and creeping through the post on everything fog lights. Don't want to reinvent the wheel if somebody has already troubleshooted this issue. Thanks!
 
Oh
My stock fog lights keep burning out. I believe it's the housing that keeps letting moisture in. Ive been searching for replacement sealed LED lights that would fit that space. Something brighter and more durable. I love all the bits you're making for the 100 series. I'll defiantly be buying some items as I work on this build. Until then, I'll keep up the search and creeping through the post on everything fog lights. Don't want to reinvent the wheel if somebody has already troubleshooted this issue. Thanks!

I thought I was just the recipient of bad fog lights. I’ve replaced with 3 ew pairs after moisture gets in quickly. I’m now just resigned to having foggy dog lights. Let me know if you make any progress with finding water tight lights.
 

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