Belt squeal, but only when moving? (2 Viewers)

[CrackIsWack]

Howdy!

Gonna be a tough one, as this is an underway noise. as mentioned, I randomly started getting a squeal/squeak/chirp from the front end. With windows up driving slowly sounds like chirping birds. It only occurs when the vehicle in in motion, gets louder with higher rpm/speed. The sound is similar to an intermittent rubber (belt squeak) that only happens when moving. it does NOT make noise sitting and idling, nor increased RPM sitting still. There is almost no speed required for it to start, maybe 2-3 mph and it'll start.

I jacked up the truck and spun the wheels, thinking i messed something up when I replaced the brakes: nope. Nothing was rubbing a tire. I greased all the u joints (even though its been <5000 miles since I last did it.) I messed with the exhaust, thinking the hangers might be squeaking. I flexed out the truck a little bit on some nearby ledges for a bushing, didn't make a notable sound.

Again it sounds like a belt slipping, but it makes no noise when stationary. any tips?

 

[voodu3]

Check your alternator bolts.
Also does it happen only when rolling or as soon as put it in gear?

 

[CrackIsWack]

Check your alternator bolts.
Also does it happen only when rolling or as soon as put it in gear?

check? just see if it walked out or something? and yes, only when rolling. I was worried it was transmission but that made no effect on squeal. I put it in neutral while rolling and still squeak.

Also went to a shop and the mechanic straight up was left head scratching, now waiting for another availability.

 

[voodu3]

Make sure the alternator bolts are tight. I had one work loose and the alternator was moving under load. It made the belt squeak but you couldn’t see it idling.

 

[CrackIsWack]

Well, I went full commitment and swapped out all the belts with my OEM spares. tightened torqued, etc. while they were off spun all the bearings and they're all fine.

drove, and within first 2-3 feet squeak is back. same as before. I'm going crazy.

 

[CrackIsWack]

i took some videos of the noise, but can't upload em here. can email or something to someone who might know what is goin on.

 

[CrackIsWack]

Make sure the alternator bolts are tight. I had one work loose and the alternator was moving under load. It made the belt squeak but you couldn’t see it idling.

ran through and replaced re tensioned all the belts, no dice

 

[ajax1]

since you just worked on your brakes is one of the brake dust shields touching the rotor somewhere

 

[CrackIsWack]

since you just worked on your brakes is one of the brake dust shields touching the rotor somewhere

its not that kinda noise, and its been like 2 months since i did em and there wasn't any problems. like I said, I jacked it up and spun em no abnormal noise like that. brakes weren't biting.

 

[BILT4ME]

It's not your belts.

It's rotationally related to driveline.

It's either an exhaust shield rattling or scraping against a slider or something or it's a u-joint that is starting to fail.

Regrease your u-joints and see if it goes away.

Sometimes when you grease them, it redistributes the debris inside and they will start to fail, particularly if they had not been greased for a really long time before.

 

[CrackIsWack]

It's not your belts.

It's rotationally related to driveline.

It's either an exhaust shield rattling or scraping against a slider or something or it's a u-joint that is starting to fail.

Regrease your u-joints and see if it goes away.

Sometimes when you grease them, it redistributes the debris inside and they will start to fail, particularly if they had not been greased for a really long time before.

that's what scares me a bit. I guess ill throw more grease in there and hope.

I JUST put in a tom woods double carden front drive shaft, would be kinda ridiculous if it already busted. It has less than 5000 miles on it. I re greased it once already a few months ago. I was going to do it anyway soon with an oil change maintenance cycle ~3000 miles.

 

[BILT4ME]

that's what scares me a bit. I guess ill throw more grease in there and hope.

I JUST put in a tom woods double carden front drive shaft, would be kinda ridiculous if it already busted. It has less than 5000 miles on it. I re greased it once already a few months ago. I was going to do it anyway soon with an oil change maintenance cycle ~3000 miles.

Did you grease the center part of the DC joint? A lot of people miss that and it's catastrophic when it goes. TW states it's supposed to be greased every 3000 miles IIRC.

 

[CrackIsWack]

Did you grease the center part of the DC joint? A lot of people miss that and it's catastrophic when it goes. TW states it's supposed to be greased every 3000 miles IIRC.

shoooooooooot, not sure. I know i pumped all 3 joints and the yoke. didn't see any other zircs. that's probably it, damn.

 

[BILT4ME]

shoooooooooot, not sure. I know i pumped all 3 joints and the yoke. didn't see any other zircs. that's probably it, damn.

Should be four plus the yoke.

 

[Kernal]

Start watching at 1:25.



Should that center zerk should get an EP grease ie: with Moly?

Lots of choices, here's one that looks good specifically for the center zerk pivot/joint:

Mobil xhp 322, 5% Moly and a higher viscosity oil than many other
greases.

PdsDetailsPage

The Mobilgrease XHP™ Mine products are specifically designed for the lubrication of extra heavy-duty off-highway and mining equipment.

www.mobil.com

Or, any 3% Moly grease (like Valvoline Palladium, also available with 5% Moly)

FWIW

 

[landtank]

To grease that shaft properly you need to take the shaft out of the truck.

Might as well lock the center diff and see if the noise is gone while the shaft is on the floor.

 

[jonheld]

To grease that shaft properly you need to take the shaft out of the truck.

Might as well lock the center diff and see if the noise is gone while the shaft is on the floor.

You also need a needle tip for your grease gun to get the center zirk. The TW double cardan is a decent drive shaft, but maintenance is a PITA.

 

[CrackIsWack]

Well dudes, i dropped the shaft this morning. I was able to get to the fitting by just taking off the rear 4 bolts, jacking up the front of the truck and spinning wheels until i could access the fitting with the joint bent.

greased up that fitting and no more noise! Hopefully I prevented too much damage cause I didn't drive too far with the noise.

Thanks for the insight, Problem solved! But damn, that's gonna be a pain to do every oil change haha!

side note, Anyone have any recommended kinda wrenches or sockets, etc to take them drive shaft nuts off? Its a tight fit and I can only ever tighten 2 at most before having to roll the truck forward or back to access the others.

 

[landtank]

You also need a needle tip for your grease gun to get the center zirk. The RD double cardan is a decent drive shaft, but maintenance is a PITA.

Ya, that maintenance schedule is pretty demanding. If I had one and was going to Moab I’d have to drop the shaft and grease it before I left, drop it and grease it before leaving Moab and then drop and grease it when I got home.

I don’t think I have the fortitude to keep up with that schedule. And neither do others which is likely responsible for early failure.

 

[CrackIsWack]

Ya, that maintenance schedule is pretty demanding. If I had one and was going to Moab I’d have to drop the shaft and grease it before I left, drop it and grease it before leaving Moab and then drop and grease it when I got home.

I don’t think I have the fortitude to keep up with that schedule. And neither do others which is likely responsible for early failure.

bought a set of crows feet, *should* make this less ridiculous.