Have you flushed the coolant and replaced the thermostat?
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- #82
had the mechanic change the rad fluid when I got it not that long ago. Thermostat is left over from PO. Like everything else, probably due for a change.
do you have to drain the whole rad to change that?
do you have to drain the whole rad to change that?
Nope, it's up top in front. Maybe do it outside the garage, as you'll have some coolant come out.
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- #84
Looking at partsorq:
partsouq.com
Looks like I'll need:
9043043002 Thermostat gasket
1634161030 Water outlet gasket
9091603052 Toyota Thermostat
Also ID'd the JDN fan, just researching an aux switch and wiring/power solution. Will post details once thats figured out.
Also noticed the other day... Drivers floor got uncomfortably hot that day, due to the ancient cat right below it on super hot days. Any other 91 owners improve that situation at all?
RADIATOR & WATER OUTLET | Toyota LAND CRUISER FJ80L-GNPNEA FJ80,FZJ80 | Parts Catalogs | PartSouq
If you are looking for RADIATOR & WATER OUTLET Parts for Toyota LAND CRUISER FJ80L-GNPNEA FJ80,FZJ80 then we advise you to pay attention to the range of our spare parts catalog for Toyota!
Looks like I'll need:
9043043002 Thermostat gasket
1634161030 Water outlet gasket
9091603052 Toyota Thermostat
Also ID'd the JDN fan, just researching an aux switch and wiring/power solution. Will post details once thats figured out.
Also noticed the other day... Drivers floor got uncomfortably hot that day, due to the ancient cat right below it on super hot days. Any other 91 owners improve that situation at all?
Looking at partsorq:
RADIATOR & WATER OUTLET | Toyota LAND CRUISER FJ80L-GNPNEA FJ80,FZJ80 | Parts Catalogs | PartSouq
If you are looking for RADIATOR & WATER OUTLET Parts for Toyota LAND CRUISER FJ80L-GNPNEA FJ80,FZJ80 then we advise you to pay attention to the range of our spare parts catalog for Toyota!
Looks like I'll need:
9043043002 Thermostat gasket
1634161030 Water outlet gasket
9091603052 Toyota Thermostat
Also ID'd the JDN fan, just researching an aux switch and wiring/power solution. Will post details once thats figured out.
Also noticed the other day... Drivers floor got uncomfortably hot that day, due to the ancient cat right below it on super hot days. Any other 91 owners improve that situation at all?
Mine came straight piped without the cats. No hot floor that I have noticed.
Is your current fan running okay? And does it have an OEM/Aisin fan clutch?
Do you have OEM radiator cap? Some folks said that can actually play more of a role in your cooling system then you would think.
- Thread starter
- #86
From what I can tell, the fan is blowing as much as it ever has. I believe fan clutch is original OEM. Ill have to dig around to confirm, but its probably old. Rad cap is brand new.
I suspect its a temp + airflow issue. Once I get RPM and/or speed up thing are nice and stable even with the AC on.
Currently digging around on the JDM CDS fan mod:
forum.ih8mud.com
Found the original fan shroud and relay for good prices, now looking for a manual bypass switch I can pull into the cabin.
Could it possibly be that I can use the OEM power wiring from the 20A CDS fuse block to my CDS relay right there in the stock block? That would be great!
I suspect its a temp + airflow issue. Once I get RPM and/or speed up thing are nice and stable even with the AC on.
Currently digging around on the JDM CDS fan mod:
ABC's of 80's Cooling Part III - Press Switch
Ok, my question here is can you wire up the relay WITH the pressure switch and also manually controll the fan ON and OFF also with a 2 way switch by grounding or powering pin 85 or 86. I got all the parts however after reading through the threads im starting to brain fart. So essentially i can...
forum.ih8mud.com
Found the original fan shroud and relay for good prices, now looking for a manual bypass switch I can pull into the cabin.
Could it possibly be that I can use the OEM power wiring from the 20A CDS fuse block to my CDS relay right there in the stock block? That would be great!
- Thread starter
- #87
I cannot ID these terminal repair parts, so I opened a topic thread:
forum.ih8mud.com
Anyone who might be able to help welcome to chime in!
Fuse Box Terminal Repair ID (Relay and Fuse)
Hey all! After searching with no success, I'm hoping someone can help me ID the following terminals for terminal repair/addition to the OEM fusebox: A terminal repair cable or crimp for a new fuse: and A terminal repair cable or crimp for a 4 pin 90987-02004 style Denso relay. OEM part...
forum.ih8mud.com
Anyone who might be able to help welcome to chime in!
- Thread starter
- #88
Rebuilt denso starter motor came today. Hoping this will resolve the no crank when hot scenario.
Going to try and do this one myself. Any gotchas on this job? Looks like, undo connectors, unbolt, clean, bolt on the new one and reconnect it.
I just installed one on my truck... Sounds about right.
ppc
M Go Blue
Make sure you disconnect the battery first.
- Thread starter
- #91
I fixed my high speed fan today. Symptoms were: all fan speeds worked, except high speed, which worked sometimes and would shut off randomly (back to a very low speed).
I figured the failing relay was number 1 (Cooling fan), but in fact the relay that is bad causing this symptom is #2 (heater). They are the same relay type. The bad relay had a dark pin (heat?) on the red side. Once a new relay was placed on relay 2, high speed fan works 100% of the time.
All the relays in the area exhibited surface rust, so perhaps someone got snow/rain/drink back here at some point. The other accessories seem to be working fine, so I'll leave those be. Given how common these 4 pin 12V 22A relays are in the car, it probably wouldn't be a bad idea to have a few spares available. PN 90987-02004-83.
OH I also smashed a brittle old door retainer clip on the way back in. I replaced it with a new yellow clip thing PN 67771-30090
Hoping to get this new starter motor in this weekend. Tired of waiting for the car to cool down so I can start when running errands!
I figured the failing relay was number 1 (Cooling fan), but in fact the relay that is bad causing this symptom is #2 (heater). They are the same relay type. The bad relay had a dark pin (heat?) on the red side. Once a new relay was placed on relay 2, high speed fan works 100% of the time.
All the relays in the area exhibited surface rust, so perhaps someone got snow/rain/drink back here at some point. The other accessories seem to be working fine, so I'll leave those be. Given how common these 4 pin 12V 22A relays are in the car, it probably wouldn't be a bad idea to have a few spares available. PN 90987-02004-83.
OH I also smashed a brittle old door retainer clip on the way back in. I replaced it with a new yellow clip thing PN 67771-30090
Hoping to get this new starter motor in this weekend. Tired of waiting for the car to cool down so I can start when running errands!
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Good work on the fan relay.
I just had the starter out, and it's literally two 17mm bolts + a 12mm for the positive battery cable. You'll want a 6" extension for the two bolts. You've got this, trust me.
- Thread starter
- #93
CDS fan came in today:
Anyone know of a good ~20A automotive connector that I could swap onto this? Or a place that has / sells old 4runner connectors?
Was looking at DEUTSCH connectors but open to ideas (Delphi connector maybe?)
Since the fuse is for 20A, I was thinking 12 gauge wire for the high current side of the relay.
For the low current side of the relay going to the manual bypass switch and high pressure switch, I was looking at using the 3M connectors recommended by @LandCruiserPhil (who has CDS kits available btw, probably would have run that if I didn't find out about it after I bought all the parts). For the low current side I was thinking 14-16 gauge wire (but open to input)?
The Toyota switch (PN 00550-35976) I bought has 3 terminals on the back, anyone know why it has 3 pins or which is which? Haven't had a chance to pull out a volt meter to play around with it.
Anyone know of a good ~20A automotive connector that I could swap onto this? Or a place that has / sells old 4runner connectors?
Was looking at DEUTSCH connectors but open to ideas (Delphi connector maybe?)
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amzn.to
Since the fuse is for 20A, I was thinking 12 gauge wire for the high current side of the relay.
For the low current side of the relay going to the manual bypass switch and high pressure switch, I was looking at using the 3M connectors recommended by @LandCruiserPhil (who has CDS kits available btw, probably would have run that if I didn't find out about it after I bought all the parts). For the low current side I was thinking 14-16 gauge wire (but open to input)?
Amazon.com: 3M Nylon .250 Fully Insulated Female Quick Disconnect Terminals 16-14 Gauge Blue: Home Improvement
Amazon.com: 3M Nylon .250 Fully Insulated Female Quick Disconnect Terminals 16-14 Gauge Blue: Home Improvement
amzn.to
The Toyota switch (PN 00550-35976) I bought has 3 terminals on the back, anyone know why it has 3 pins or which is which? Haven't had a chance to pull out a volt meter to play around with it.
- Thread starter
- #95
Here is an okay internal diagram of the switch. Looks like the third pin is a ground pathway for the LED light on the switch itself. Careful not to run positive on the side pin, as it will result in constant power to the LED light.
- Thread starter
- #96
In order to replace the distributor cap, rotor, spark plug harness and gaskets (I have the parts, just looking to throw them on the truck as part of the 'tune up' process), do I need to mess with a timing light and all that?
While the new cap/rotor should spark at the same point, I wouldn't personally trust that it will. I'd rent/borrow a light and be emotionally prepared to retime it.
Don't forget a jumper wire!
Normally you dont need to check timing with those changes but if you havent checked before you really dont know if the truck is up to spec.
I don't remember if you did this already but if you can it is recommended to adjust your valves before adjusting your timing. Timing on the 3FE is a bit of a pain compared with a 1FZE but doable. I definitely recommend getting a telescoping mirror to help see the timing hole. Also, it seems pretty safe to advance it a few degrees.
I don't remember if you did this already but if you can it is recommended to adjust your valves before adjusting your timing. Timing on the 3FE is a bit of a pain compared with a 1FZE but doable. I definitely recommend getting a telescoping mirror to help see the timing hole. Also, it seems pretty safe to advance it a few degrees.
- Thread starter
- #100
**** I finally got the lower bolt off the starter.
WD-40d the crap out of it a few hours ago, not sure if that helped or not.
- Breaker bar couldn't do it (not enough room and too much play)
- Impact hammer couldn't do it (at least the one I have)
- The extensions couldn't do it (would not stay on the bolt!!!)
- Coming at it from the wheel well didn't work
- Coming at it from the top didn't work
The thing that worked:
- Removing the transmission dipstick (1 bolt + 2 breathers. Just pulls out. Also noticed a weeping gasket I need to replace).
- socket wrench with a 6 sided socket (instead of 12)
- Removing all extensions from the socket
- Coming from the bottom and positioning the socket wrench horizontally and just doing a pull-up on it. Finally broke loose.
- removing the vape canister
That poor bolt, I'm going to get a new one.
Shaved off teeth
Cracked insulation (note the new denso starter has an outer sleeve and individually wrapped wires inside, much nicer)
WD-40d the crap out of it a few hours ago, not sure if that helped or not.
- Breaker bar couldn't do it (not enough room and too much play)
- Impact hammer couldn't do it (at least the one I have)
- The extensions couldn't do it (would not stay on the bolt!!!)
- Coming at it from the wheel well didn't work
- Coming at it from the top didn't work
The thing that worked:
- Removing the transmission dipstick (1 bolt + 2 breathers. Just pulls out. Also noticed a weeping gasket I need to replace).
- socket wrench with a 6 sided socket (instead of 12)
- Removing all extensions from the socket
- Coming from the bottom and positioning the socket wrench horizontally and just doing a pull-up on it. Finally broke loose.
- removing the vape canister
That poor bolt, I'm going to get a new one.
Shaved off teeth
Cracked insulation (note the new denso starter has an outer sleeve and individually wrapped wires inside, much nicer)
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