Builds bcomnes' 1991 3FE FJ80 Build

Joined
Feb 5, 2019
Messages
52
Location
Southwestern AZ
Did some Father’s Day wheeling. Nothing to crazy since I was solo.

It was 103-5F and fully exposed out and the temp gauge wouldn’t stabilize anytime I had the ac on. It kept getting closer to red, so backed off the ac and would turn on the heat/blower and it would stabilize.

Bummer. New rad and an extra fan maybe could help here?

View attachment 2347186
Have you flushed the coolant and replaced the thermostat?
 

bcomnes

SILVER Star
Joined
Oct 20, 2019
Messages
283
Location
Ivins UT
had the mechanic change the rad fluid when I got it not that long ago. Thermostat is left over from PO. Like everything else, probably due for a change.

do you have to drain the whole rad to change that?
 
Joined
Sep 11, 2019
Messages
259
Location
Utah Valley
had the mechanic change the rad fluid when I got it not that long ago. Thermostat is left over from PO. Like everything else, probably due for a change.

do you have to drain the whole rad to change that?
Nope, it's up top in front. Maybe do it outside the garage, as you'll have some coolant come out.
 

bcomnes

SILVER Star
Joined
Oct 20, 2019
Messages
283
Location
Ivins UT
Looking at partsorq:


Looks like I'll need:

9043043002 Thermostat gasket
1634161030 Water outlet gasket
9091603052 Toyota Thermostat

Also ID'd the JDN fan, just researching an aux switch and wiring/power solution. Will post details once thats figured out.

Also noticed the other day... Drivers floor got uncomfortably hot that day, due to the ancient cat right below it on super hot days. Any other 91 owners improve that situation at all?
 
Joined
Feb 5, 2019
Messages
52
Location
Southwestern AZ
Looking at partsorq:


Looks like I'll need:

9043043002 Thermostat gasket
1634161030 Water outlet gasket
9091603052 Toyota Thermostat

Also ID'd the JDN fan, just researching an aux switch and wiring/power solution. Will post details once thats figured out.

Also noticed the other day... Drivers floor got uncomfortably hot that day, due to the ancient cat right below it on super hot days. Any other 91 owners improve that situation at all?
Mine came straight piped without the cats. No hot floor that I have noticed.

Is your current fan running okay? And does it have an OEM/Aisin fan clutch?

Do you have OEM radiator cap? Some folks said that can actually play more of a role in your cooling system then you would think.
 

bcomnes

SILVER Star
Joined
Oct 20, 2019
Messages
283
Location
Ivins UT
From what I can tell, the fan is blowing as much as it ever has. I believe fan clutch is original OEM. Ill have to dig around to confirm, but its probably old. Rad cap is brand new.

I suspect its a temp + airflow issue. Once I get RPM and/or speed up thing are nice and stable even with the AC on.

Currently digging around on the JDM CDS fan mod:


Found the original fan shroud and relay for good prices, now looking for a manual bypass switch I can pull into the cabin.

Could it possibly be that I can use the OEM power wiring from the 20A CDS fuse block to my CDS relay right there in the stock block? That would be great!
 

bcomnes

SILVER Star
Joined
Oct 20, 2019
Messages
283
Location
Ivins UT
I cannot ID these terminal repair parts, so I opened a topic thread:


Anyone who might be able to help welcome to chime in!
 

bcomnes

SILVER Star
Joined
Oct 20, 2019
Messages
283
Location
Ivins UT
FE80FFDA-CCFD-44F5-9B57-430EFB6490F5.jpeg
99B99BFF-CBDF-4EBA-90B5-068FE915FEF6.jpeg


Rebuilt denso starter motor came today. Hoping this will resolve the no crank when hot scenario.

Going to try and do this one myself. Any gotchas on this job? Looks like, undo connectors, unbolt, clean, bolt on the new one and reconnect it.
 

bcomnes

SILVER Star
Joined
Oct 20, 2019
Messages
283
Location
Ivins UT
I fixed my high speed fan today. Symptoms were: all fan speeds worked, except high speed, which worked sometimes and would shut off randomly (back to a very low speed).

IMG_5418.png


I figured the failing relay was number 1 (Cooling fan), but in fact the relay that is bad causing this symptom is #2 (heater). They are the same relay type. The bad relay had a dark pin (heat?) on the red side. Once a new relay was placed on relay 2, high speed fan works 100% of the time.

All the relays in the area exhibited surface rust, so perhaps someone got snow/rain/drink back here at some point. The other accessories seem to be working fine, so I'll leave those be. Given how common these 4 pin 12V 22A relays are in the car, it probably wouldn't be a bad idea to have a few spares available. PN 90987-02004-83.

OH I also smashed a brittle old door retainer clip on the way back in. I replaced it with a new yellow clip thing PN 67771-30090

Hoping to get this new starter motor in this weekend. Tired of waiting for the car to cool down so I can start when running errands!
 
Last edited:
Joined
Sep 11, 2019
Messages
259
Location
Utah Valley
I fixed my high speed fan today. Symptoms were: all fan speeds worked, except high speed, which worked sometimes and would shut off randomly (back to a very low speed).

View attachment 2359009

I figured the failing relay was number 1 (Cooling fan), but in fact the relay that is bad causing this symptom is #2 (heater). They are the same relay type. The bad relay had a dark pin (heat?) on the red side. Once a new relay was placed on relay 2, high speed fan works 100% of the time.

All the relays in the area existed surface rust, so perhaps someone got snow/rain/drink back her at some point. The other accessories seem to be working fine, so I'll leave those be. Given how common these 4 pin 12V 22A relays are in the car, it probably wouldn't be a bad idea to have a few spares available. PN 90987-02004-83.

OH I also smashed a brittle old door retainer clip on the way back in. I replaced it with a new yellow clip thing PN 67771-30090

Hoping to get this new starter motor in this weekend. Tired of waiting for the car to cool down so I can start when running errands!
Good work on the fan relay.
I just had the starter out, and it's literally two 17mm bolts + a 12mm for the positive battery cable. You'll want a 6" extension for the two bolts. You've got this, trust me.
 

bcomnes

SILVER Star
Joined
Oct 20, 2019
Messages
283
Location
Ivins UT
CDS fan came in today:

IMG_5421.jpeg


IMG_5422.jpeg


IMG_5423.jpeg


Anyone know of a good ~20A automotive connector that I could swap onto this? Or a place that has / sells old 4runner connectors?

Was looking at DEUTSCH connectors but open to ideas (Delphi connector maybe?)


Since the fuse is for 20A, I was thinking 12 gauge wire for the high current side of the relay.

For the low current side of the relay going to the manual bypass switch and high pressure switch, I was looking at using the 3M connectors recommended by @LandCruiserPhil (who has CDS kits available btw, probably would have run that if I didn't find out about it after I bought all the parts). For the low current side I was thinking 14-16 gauge wire (but open to input)?


The Toyota switch (PN 00550-35976) I bought has 3 terminals on the back, anyone know why it has 3 pins or which is which? Haven't had a chance to pull out a volt meter to play around with it.

IMG_5425.jpeg


IMG_5424.jpeg
 

LandCruiserPhil

Peter Pan Syndrome
Supporting Vendor
Joined
Mar 10, 2004
Messages
24,801
Location
Scottsdale Arizona
 
 
 
CDS fan came in today:

View attachment 2359487

View attachment 2359488

View attachment 2359493

Anyone know of a good ~20A automotive connector that I could swap onto this? Or a place that has / sells old 4runner connectors?

Was looking at DEUTSCH connectors but open to ideas (Delphi connector maybe?)


Since the fuse is for 20A, I was thinking 12 gauge wire for the high current side of the relay.

For the low current side of the relay going to the manual bypass switch and high pressure switch, I was looking at using the 3M connectors recommended by @LandCruiserPhil (who has CDS kits available btw, probably would have run that if I didn't find out about it after I bought all the parts). For the low current side I was thinking 14-16 gauge wire (but open to input)?


The Toyota switch (PN 00550-35976) I bought has 3 terminals on the back, anyone know why it has 3 pins or which is which? Haven't had a chance to pull out a volt meter to play around with it.

View attachment 2359584

View attachment 2359585
 

Attachments

bcomnes

SILVER Star
Joined
Oct 20, 2019
Messages
283
Location
Ivins UT
Here is an okay internal diagram of the switch. Looks like the third pin is a ground pathway for the LED light on the switch itself. Careful not to run positive on the side pin, as it will result in constant power to the LED light.
Screen Shot 2020-07-02 at 3.28.39 PM.png
 

bcomnes

SILVER Star
Joined
Oct 20, 2019
Messages
283
Location
Ivins UT
In order to replace the distributor cap, rotor, spark plug harness and gaskets (I have the parts, just looking to throw them on the truck as part of the 'tune up' process), do I need to mess with a timing light and all that?
 
Joined
Sep 11, 2019
Messages
259
Location
Utah Valley
In order to replace the distributor cap, rotor, spark plug harness and gaskets (I have the parts, just looking to throw them on the truck as part of the 'tune up' process), do I need to mess with a timing light and all that?
While the new cap/rotor should spark at the same point, I wouldn't personally trust that it will. I'd rent/borrow a light and be emotionally prepared to retime it.

Don't forget a jumper wire!
 
Joined
Feb 5, 2019
Messages
52
Location
Southwestern AZ
Normally you dont need to check timing with those changes but if you havent checked before you really dont know if the truck is up to spec.

I don't remember if you did this already but if you can it is recommended to adjust your valves before adjusting your timing. Timing on the 3FE is a bit of a pain compared with a 1FZE but doable. I definitely recommend getting a telescoping mirror to help see the timing hole. Also, it seems pretty safe to advance it a few degrees.
 

bcomnes

SILVER Star
Joined
Oct 20, 2019
Messages
283
Location
Ivins UT
Holy crap 2 hours into getting this bottom starter bolt loose. Gonna take a break over at the parts store looking for a breaker bar or something. Top nut came out in 2 mins. :(
 

bcomnes

SILVER Star
Joined
Oct 20, 2019
Messages
283
Location
Ivins UT
f*** I finally got the lower bolt off the starter.

WD-40d the crap out of it a few hours ago, not sure if that helped or not.

- Breaker bar couldn't do it (not enough room and too much play)
- Impact hammer couldn't do it (at least the one I have)
- The extensions couldn't do it (would not stay on the bolt!!!)
- Coming at it from the wheel well didn't work
- Coming at it from the top didn't work


The thing that worked:

- Removing the transmission dipstick (1 bolt + 2 breathers. Just pulls out. Also noticed a weeping gasket I need to replace).
- socket wrench with a 6 sided socket (instead of 12)
- Removing all extensions from the socket
- Coming from the bottom and positioning the socket wrench horizontally and just doing a pull-up on it. Finally broke loose.
- removing the vape canister

IMG_5429.jpeg


That poor bolt, I'm going to get a new one.

IMG_5430.jpeg


Shaved off teeth

IMG_5431.jpeg


Cracked insulation (note the new denso starter has an outer sleeve and individually wrapped wires inside, much nicer)
 
Last edited:
Top Bottom