This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
- Thread starter
- #162
Lots of updates. Took some family to toqervill falls again
Got the @Ironman 4x4 USA stage 2 lift, and had it installed at Pro Auto Care in St George
Got the @Ironman 4x4 USA stage 2 lift, and had it installed at Pro Auto Care in St George
- Thread starter
- #163
I had my hood repainted at Troys Customs in Ivins UT. Really incredible work, and was only about $500 to do it.
For reference, this is what the hood looked like before:
I also tried to pain my sliders. It wen't okay, but after the hood painting that went so well, I wish I had just taken it 3 minutes down the street to Troys and did something more heavy duty like a bed liner or something.
For reference, this is what the hood looked like before:
I also tried to pain my sliders. It wen't okay, but after the hood painting that went so well, I wish I had just taken it 3 minutes down the street to Troys and did something more heavy duty like a bed liner or something.
- Thread starter
- #164
After about a million trips to Discount Tire, I finally got a matching spare tire. They kept ordering the wrong wheel, and ended up mangling my brake caliper. After a call to the PO and her Discount tire, we correctly identified the wheels and tires:
32 Inch BF Goodrich KO2 (discount tire # 10400 LT275 /70 R17 121R E1 RWL)
17 Inch Unique 297 wheel (discount tire item number: 52201).
Finally, I moved the family and the Cruiser up to Idaho and moved into our first home! The move and the tow was a success!
32 Inch BF Goodrich KO2 (discount tire # 10400 LT275 /70 R17 121R E1 RWL)
17 Inch Unique 297 wheel (discount tire item number: 52201).
Finally, I moved the family and the Cruiser up to Idaho and moved into our first home! The move and the tow was a success!
Last edited:
Nice looking rig. I had my sliders powder coated when i first got them, but now they were mostly covered by rattle can blk. They are gonna get beat up if you use them more than just your normal mall crawl =)
looking good! wish mine was that clean.
if you are going to repaint the sliders you might consider adding a brace or two between the tube and the box steel before you lean it on a rock and it looks more like a W. I built a set like that once on a mini truck and first hit on a rock in the middle bent it surprisingly easy. might not be an issue for you but i would hate to see you have to redo the whole tube like i did.
if you are going to repaint the sliders you might consider adding a brace or two between the tube and the box steel before you lean it on a rock and it looks more like a W. I built a set like that once on a mini truck and first hit on a rock in the middle bent it surprisingly easy. might not be an issue for you but i would hate to see you have to redo the whole tube like i did.
Hi there. I have a new center register for my 91 but cannot figure out how to install. Do you have to remove the dash on top? any help appreciated.
- Thread starter
- #169
I removed the lower black trim that covers the radio and HVAC controls, then I was able to remove the upper black trim, below the top dashboard. Its fairly easy, just keep an eye out for hidden screws under the layers of trim, and be careful not to crack the trim. It requires a 'medium' amount of force to get off. If you find yourself really tugging at it, maybe check to make sure there aren't any more hidden screws.
- Thread starter
- #170
New steering gearbox with the beefed up sector shaft came in today from UAE.
And a reproduction high pressure hose from @ToyotaMatt VINTAGE TEQ came in the other week.
I forgot to order couple fresh bolts, and need to find a shop interested in swapping. I don't have time or the space to do it myself right now.
If anyones interested in my old 250k mi core which is in good shape and ready for a rebuild, let me know. You could get it rebuilt and still drive your car and do a quick swap when it comes back in.
And a reproduction high pressure hose from @ToyotaMatt VINTAGE TEQ came in the other week.
I forgot to order couple fresh bolts, and need to find a shop interested in swapping. I don't have time or the space to do it myself right now.
If anyones interested in my old 250k mi core which is in good shape and ready for a rebuild, let me know. You could get it rebuilt and still drive your car and do a quick swap when it comes back in.
- Thread starter
- #171
Just some quick updates:
- New power steering box installed
- New high pressure power steering hose installed.
- Low pressure power steering replaced.
I'll be sending off my leaky 'core' to @Kabanstva. Here it is in all its glory
I also had my rear brake pads and rotors replaced, and my rear driveline u-joints replaced. I need to do for the front next.
In Idaho my drivers window came off the regulator rail. The weather strip was old and shrank in the cold and ripped it out. I replaced the filler gasket and got the window mounted back up (69971-60020) I also replaced new vapor barriers and that weird black goop. I put in a new motor and regulator:
While I was in there, I took a look at the NLA lock and inspected my speaker which is totally shot, so putting that on my list. Lucky the NLA front door lock motor is still working strong.
Here is the old regulator/motor.
Looks aftermarket? Not sure. The Dorman 741-795/741-796 and new weather stripping made the window work great now. Its still a little weaker on battery only when rolling up than I would like (compared to Lexus windows), but overall a huge improvement. After I get some speakers, I'll do the passenger door as well.
Other life updates, we moved back to Utah and had a second baby
Also I got a tool chest so I can finally find tools:
- New power steering box installed
- New high pressure power steering hose installed.
- Low pressure power steering replaced.
I'll be sending off my leaky 'core' to @Kabanstva. Here it is in all its glory
I also had my rear brake pads and rotors replaced, and my rear driveline u-joints replaced. I need to do for the front next.
In Idaho my drivers window came off the regulator rail. The weather strip was old and shrank in the cold and ripped it out. I replaced the filler gasket and got the window mounted back up (69971-60020) I also replaced new vapor barriers and that weird black goop. I put in a new motor and regulator:
While I was in there, I took a look at the NLA lock and inspected my speaker which is totally shot, so putting that on my list. Lucky the NLA front door lock motor is still working strong.
Here is the old regulator/motor.
Looks aftermarket? Not sure. The Dorman 741-795/741-796 and new weather stripping made the window work great now. Its still a little weaker on battery only when rolling up than I would like (compared to Lexus windows), but overall a huge improvement. After I get some speakers, I'll do the passenger door as well.
Other life updates, we moved back to Utah and had a second baby
Also I got a tool chest so I can finally find tools:
- Thread starter
- #172
Swapped the vacuum control valve because my Autozone vapor can started dumping gas vapor out the bottom in heat. The theory is that the can wasn't getting purged due to a stuck valve. I'll report back if it works. The new one has slightly different vacuums hose arrangement, but is labeled so it was easy to figure out which way to attach hoses. If this doesn't work, I think I'll just vent to atmosphere. Getting tired of this.
Toyota 90925-03192 - VALVE, VACUUM CONTROL, NO.1
Toyota 90925-03192 - VALVE, VACUUM CONTROL, NO.1
What part number/vendor did you use to order that steering box with beefy shaft pre-installed?
- Thread starter
- #175
I ordered a 44110-60212 from amayama for $1,587.85
Toyota 44110-60212 (4411060212) GEAR ASSY, POWER STEERING
Toyota 44110-60212 (4411060212) GEAR ASSY, POWER STEERING. New & genuine Japanese car parts. Fast shipping. Low prices. Request a quote from Amayama Trading Co. online.
www.amayama.com
- Thread starter
- #176
I've fallen behind a bunch of updates, I'll try to do a catch up post soon.
I did have some good news though:
- I moved back to CA recently, and had to pass smog.
- The car failed the first test, due to lack of vacuum on the EGR unit.
- The hard vacuum lines to the EGR and vape can was totally clogged. Not sure what happened, but it was uncoggable.
- I performed a hard line bypass with some OEM vacuum line and a t-splitter to the EGR and vape can vent and fully passed smog.
- Fixing vacuum to the vape can vent circuit seems to have fixed my fuel fume issue completely, So finally sorted that out.
- With the EGR correctly functioning, acceleration felt improved on the freeway.
So, if you are having vape can fuel smell issues, check your hard lines and perform the vacuum bypass. It won't vent unless thats working!
I did have some good news though:
- I moved back to CA recently, and had to pass smog.
- The car failed the first test, due to lack of vacuum on the EGR unit.
- The hard vacuum lines to the EGR and vape can was totally clogged. Not sure what happened, but it was uncoggable.
- I performed a hard line bypass with some OEM vacuum line and a t-splitter to the EGR and vape can vent and fully passed smog.
- Fixing vacuum to the vape can vent circuit seems to have fixed my fuel fume issue completely, So finally sorted that out.
- With the EGR correctly functioning, acceleration felt improved on the freeway.
So, if you are having vape can fuel smell issues, check your hard lines and perform the vacuum bypass. It won't vent unless thats working!
weird, trying to solve my 91 front washer motor issue now. I am fairly sure the original is installed with ASMO 860310-2110. The wires are attached to this one. Will need to either find the connectors to convert it over or something. For not going to try to rig up the rear washer that is still working.
Also, annoyed you linked that Delta VS site. I just spent $600. Who knew there was a gas cap holder!?
