Builds bcomnes' 1991 3FE FJ80 Build (1 Viewer)

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All the original PNs for the various bolts and stuff are no longer made, and tracing down the bizarro JIS Toyota bolts elsewhere has proven quite difficult. Of course I could throw on regular metric bolts, but in case any one else wants to do this, here are the specs of replacement bolts that are still available:

@Bluegrass
It turns out the stud is still available,
Bolt Stud - Toyota (90116-12005) for about $2 list.

An interchange for a M12x1.75x32mm long bolt is 91212-51232 for about $3.40 list.

If you go the dealer route, add in two lock washers (one for the bolt, one for the stud) part no. 94512-01200 and one nut for the stud, 94115-41200.

It would be nice if you reported back to @Coolerman the specifics on the stud.

Thanks!
 

leonard_nemoy

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Did you ever fix your no start when hot issue. I had the same problem on mine and it was a relay located in the black box under the hood on the right side of the engine bay. I can't remember the name of the relay but I found something searching on here that pointed me in the direction. Seems like it was an ignition relay, EFI relay, or something like that.

Edit, here is a good thread on the EFI relay no start when hot.

SOLVED-I was being dumb! RTH - 3FE No Start
 
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Mine is a no crank issue when hot, which wouldn’t be affected by efi relay from what I can tell from the electronics diagram. Though I may possibly be affected by that as well, I’m testing for that variable as well.
 
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f*** I finally got the lower bolt off the starter.

WD-40d the crap out of it a few hours ago, not sure if that helped or not.

- Breaker bar couldn't do it (not enough room and too much play)
- Impact hammer couldn't do it (at least the one I have)
- The extensions couldn't do it (would not stay on the bolt!!!)
- Coming at it from the wheel well didn't work
- Coming at it from the top didn't work

I forget sometimes that not everybody has the whole passenger side of the engine bay open... And also that not everyone has an adjustable-length rachet handle like this: 1/4 in. x 3/8 in. Dual Drive Extendable Ratchet

I used mine to both break and then remove the bolts. Super handy.
 
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Buying one. Traditional breaker bars are surprisingly useless in tight spaces.

The key was getting everything I could out of the way, namely the vape can, and also the transmission dip stick.
 
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Buying one. Traditional breaker bars are surprisingly useless in tight spaces.

The key was getting everything I could out of the way, namely the vape can, and also the transmission dip stick.
They have a 1/2" one that I swear I use more than my 25" breaker.
 
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Installed fresh center dash registers. I could not find the LH side register.


Also removed the factory amp. Lots of room now for mounting a radio unit or something:

IMG_5479.jpeg
IMG_5478.jpeg


Also, got the new starter motor back in after a couple weeks of being out of service. Nice to drive the car around again finally.

Crank is slower than the boche, but still feels strong, though I have been having a low RPM/weak start after 12-24 hrs of sitting around which started before I pulled the old starter out. I wonder what thats all about. Going to continue running errands in the FJ in this 100F+ weather and see if I get the no crank issue.

I'll post a vid comparing the sounds of both starter motors as soon as I top off the battery tonight.

Bonus pic of the fire today:

IMG_5496.jpeg
 
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Starting to research how to add additional aux accessories to the car (CDS fan switch is the fist thing) and it looks like there is already an unused grommet on the firewall. Any recommendations for pass through grommets or do people just cut a hole in the one thats there?

IMG_5499.jpeg


Also just poking around the engine bay, anyone know what these disconnected connectors are for?

IMG_5501.jpeg


IMG_5498.jpeg
 
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Starting to research how to add additional aux accessories to the car (CDS fan switch is the fist thing) and it looks like there is already an unused grommet on the firewall. Any recommendations for pass through grommets or do people just cut a hole in the one thats there?

View attachment 2372341

Also just poking around the engine bay, anyone know what these disconnected connectors are for?

View attachment 2372342

View attachment 2372344
I'd love to find out what those connectors on the fender there are for!
 
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YotaYard, in less than 5 mins on the phone helped me locate a female 2 pin electric fan connector from a 2nd gen 4runner. $15+ shipping

So thats the last difficult part to track down for an OEM style install of a CDS fan mod.

output-1.jpg


output.jpg


Also looks like amayama just sent me a second tracking number from my CDS fan order. Looks like a mistake, but something is definitely headed my way from overseas. A second fan perhaps?

Also SUPER happy to update:

After sitting for 1.5 weeks, NO OIL LEAK accumulation! Drove it around some more yesterday, lets see if that stirs up some more oil, but so far really happy with the results (and cost) of replacing the oil pan gasket.
 
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Joined
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YotaYard, in less than 5 mins on the phone helped me locate a female 2 pin electric fan connector from a 2nd gen 4runner. $15+ shipping

So thats the last difficult part to track down for an OEM style install of a CDS fan mod.

View attachment 2372682

View attachment 2372683

Also looks like amayama just sent me a second tracking number from my CDS fan order. Looks like a mistake, but something is definitely headed my way from overseas. A second fan perhaps?

Also SUPER happy to update:

After sitting for 1.5 weeks, NO OIL LEAK accumulation! Drove it around some more yesterday, lets see if that stirs up some more oil, but so far really happy with the results (and cost) of replacing the oil pan gasket.
What is this CDS fan mod?
I like fans. And mods.
 
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f*** I finally got the lower bolt off the starter.

WD-40d the crap out of it a few hours ago, not sure if that helped or not.

- Breaker bar couldn't do it (not enough room and too much play)
- Impact hammer couldn't do it (at least the one I have)
- The extensions couldn't do it (would not stay on the bolt!!!)
- Coming at it from the wheel well didn't work
- Coming at it from the top didn't work


The thing that worked:

- Removing the transmission dipstick (1 bolt + 2 breathers. Just pulls out. Also noticed a weeping gasket I need to replace).
- socket wrench with a 6 sided socket (instead of 12)
- Removing all extensions from the socket
- Coming from the bottom and positioning the socket wrench horizontally and just doing a pull-up on it. Finally broke loose.
- removing the vape canister

View attachment 2360629

That poor bolt, I'm going to get a new one.

View attachment 2360634

Shaved off teeth

View attachment 2360636

Cracked insulation (note the new denso starter has an outer sleeve and individually wrapped wires inside, much nicer)
I'm going to recommend that you switch from WD40 to PB Blaster for penetrating oil. I have found that PBB works WAY better and is actually a penetrating oil, whereas WD40 is a water-based product and does not work as well.

Secondly, you need to buy and use six-point sockets instead of 12 point. They will stop rounding off your bolt heads.
 
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I'm going to recommend that you switch from WD40 to PB Blaster for penetrating oil. I have found that PBB works WAY better and is actually a penetrating oil, whereas WD40 is a water-based product and does not work as well.

Secondly, you need to buy and use six-point sockets instead of 12 point. They will stop rounding off your bolt heads.
This. Every word of this.
 
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What is this CDS fan mod?

Condenser fan mod. Helps airflow on hot days at low speed (traffic and wheeling). I guess it was an option for non US 80s. If you look in the fuse box, its marked for a missing CDS relay and fuse.

Land Cruiser Phill sells a kit here: Land Cruiser Products - LCP

I was unaware of the kit at the time so I started tracking down all the pieces.


Here is the schematic I'm planning on using.

See Builds - bcomnes' 1991 3FE FJ80 Build for the updated schematic.

Screen Shot 2020-07-15 at 10.57.32 AM.png



Here is the pressure switch 'logic' diagram from FSM:

img_5401-jpeg.2351758


Picture of the pressure switch in a 91

img_5387-jpeg.2347958


Planned operation:

- Fan comes on with the medium pressure switch, which occurs shortly after the AC is activated.
- Fan stays on for a few minutes after the AC shuts off even if the car is not running, as pressure lowers in the AC system.
- AUX fan switch in the cabin can turn on the fan manually if the AC is off.
- Typically you want the AC on when you want the fan on (its going to be very hot, 100F+ out), but if things are breaking down due to heat, you still want to be able to run the electric fan with the AC off, which will contribute to overheating etc.

I'm going to recommend that you switch from WD40 to PB Blaster for penetrating oil. I have found that PBB works WAY better and is actually a penetrating oil, whereas WD40 is a water-based product and does not work as well.

Secondly, you need to buy and use six-point sockets instead of 12 point. They will stop rounding off your bolt heads.

Ordering some today ty!. Re 6 point, yes I have some (and what was eventually used to break it loose)! I also have some 12 point, but I was unaware of the hazard differences beyond one was easier to get onto the bolt, which I though was the issue at first 😅 Every project I learn something :V
 
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Joined
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Messages
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Location
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Condenser fan mod. Helps airflow on hot days at low speed (traffic and wheeling). I guess it was an option for non US 80s. If you look in the fuse box, its marked for a missing CDS relay and fuse.

Land Cruiser Phill sells a kit here: Land Cruiser Products - LCP

I was unaware of the kit at the time so I started tracking down all the pieces.


Here is the schematic I'm planning on using.

View attachment 2372697


Here is the pressure switch 'logic' diagram from FSM:

img_5401-jpeg.2351758


Picture of the pressure switch in a 91

img_5387-jpeg.2347958


Planned operation:

- Fan comes on with the medium pressure switch, which occurs shortly after the AC is activated.
- Fan stays on for a few minutes after the AC shuts off even if the car is not running, as pressure lowers in the AC system.
- AUX fan switch in the cabin can turn on the fan manually if the AC is off.
- Typically you want the AC on when you want the fan on (its going to be very hot, 100F+ out), but if things are breaking down due to heat, you still want to be able to run the electric fan with the AC off, which will contribute to overheating etc.



Ordering some today ty!. Re 6 point, yes I have some (and what was eventually used to break it loose)! I also have some 12 point, but I was unaware of the hazard differences beyond one was easier to get onto the bolt, which I though was the issue at first 😅 Every project I learn something :V

That looks like a great idea, I will do this once I get the chance.
 
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A bunch of updates.

First big addition: new rock sliders:

IMG_5615.jpeg

IMG_5616.jpeg


IMG_5618.jpeg


IMG_5619.jpeg


IMG_5620.jpeg


Big shoutout to @leonard_nemoy for the fab work (making them, but then also modifying them to fit my un-lifted 91).

Still a bit to do on the, (like refit that cat plate) and get adjust some spacing. Overall super happy with them.
 
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Replaced the totally broken exhaust bushing we noticed when fitting the sliders:

62007648108__F9C03AEC-809B-49BB-B738-CAD5C88ACA9E.jpeg


IMG_5769.jpeg


IMG_5778.jpeg


IMG_5779.jpeg


Bushing: 17567-61030 (x3)
Bushing nuts: 90179-06007 (x12)

Best prices on partsouq from my research. Liquid wrench managed to help get all old nuts off without breaking (except for one).
 
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Finalized my mil-spec battery terminals today. I had the positive side switched over (since you can just put the existing lugs onto the new terminal. Negative side is more work/tools:

Cable cutters (used also for stripping)

Assorted heat shrink tubing

Battery lug crimper

Heat gun

Battery lugs from the hardware store. I just bought an array of sizes and fit once I cut the old terminal off.


Old terminal

IMG_5819.jpeg


New lugs and termial

IMG_5817.jpeg

IMG_5818.jpeg
 
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I performed the CDS fan install the other week. Didn't turn out exactly as I expected but overall it was fun. Not convinced on the mod yet, but not unhappy that I did it either.

1. I don't notice a major difference in cooling power a low/idle speed.
2. The after run behavior is different than what others described. Not sure if its because I have an R-12 system, or if I have a pressure/switch issue present, or its just wayyyyy to hot out in southern Utah.
3. The OEM relay gets hot. Seems like an eventual burn out point.
4. I still need to test hot day crawling. Improved low speed airflow was what I was hoping this would help with mostly.
5. Re-filling the main fan clutch seems like a good idea and what I should have done prior to all this $ and work.

IMG_5830.jpeg


IMG_5828.jpeg


IMG_5829.jpeg


IMG_5826.jpeg


IMG_5825.jpeg


So, after-run behavior on this was supposed to last only a few seconds to a few minutes. On a normal hot day (100-105), I get about 5-10 minutes of after run. On a severely hot day (110 - 115F) I get 10 mins+ of after run. That makes me nervous, so the cabin switch override is really a must. For the most part I keep the fan switched off, and only switch it on when I think it might help.

Continued below for more photos:
 

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