No, He ran the compression and it was from 100- 145 all over the place ,still looking. Did find a transfer case for the fj -80 though. Mike
Barn Rebuild: The family heirloom
- Thread starter Heirloom
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- #282
At least that's half good news.
Back on topic, I got a pic of the assembled rear driveline:
Mostly new parts in there.
Also, I did some more electrolysis and sand blasting. I brought the distributor and carb home so I could tinker in the evenings. Summer break is ending and I have to go back to work next week.
Question for engine experts: Should I use "break in oil" or just cheap SAE 30WT oil for the first dose of lube in my engine?
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- #284
Thanks for the kind words. I've heard what you have heard. I have also heard that I should run specifically formulated "break in" oil. I have also heard to run whatever conventional oil I want, but to add break in oil additive. Finally, I have heard to just fill it with Rotella T5 15W40.
Options exist. I am trying to figure out what advice to follow.
Hi, What's going on? Mike
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- #286
Nothing, that's the problem. I've been back at work and injured with a separated shoulder the last two weeks. Toyota has been moved to indirect heat lately.
I did disassemble the carburetor. Still need to clean and assemble it. Here are some images to quench your thirst:
Linkage orientation
Remove the two screws so the choke pivot rod can be removed for cleaning.
Remove the visible screws to open the carb bowl.
Pieces for the float and needle valve.
The bowl was cleaner than expected.
The accelerator pump was a mess. Broken spring, and the plunger had unscrewed itself. I bet this thing wasn't running its best when it got parked. I'll need to come up with a solution for the broken spring. That wasn't in the rebuild kit from SOR.
There were two screens that I would like to replace as well. I'll scour the rebuild kit to see if these were included (haven't opened the baggies yet). Also, the jets (orifice tubes?) for the accelerator pump are clogged. For whatever reason, they don't want to unscrew. It is like they are staked in place. Experts?
Hello everyone. I am neck-deep in a rebuilding process, and decided to start a thread to document what I am doing. I promise to try to do my best with the updating as I get work done.
A little back-story:
Almost 40 years ago, my uncle bought a Toyota 4x4 to help get him to and from his remote cabin outside of Boulder, CO. He drove it for a few years in the mountains and on his notorious adventures to any part of the country he fancied. When he decided to take his carpentry business to California, he traded the Landcruiser to his mother (my grandma) for her Audi, so he would look more "upscale" when bidding jobs to movie stars (which he did successfully, according to family stories). That was 1979 or 1980. My grandparents used the rig as a 3rd vehicle for 3-4 years, whenever a load of lumber needed to be hauled on a small trailer or whatever. After loaning it out to some irresponsible family members, my grandparents "repo-ed" it and parked it. The last time it was started was 1984. It sat, occasionally hauled to a different part of the lot or another barn for the next 27-ish years.
I grew up looking at the old Toyota, wanting to play in it as a child, and wanting to work on it as an adolescent. Family drama kept it in its rotting state for a long time. Around Thanksgiving 2011, my grandmother offered me the opportunity to have the old rig and bring it back to life. I honorably accepted, angry family be-damned. Here is it rotting in the mud around Thanksgiving 2011:
Thanks for the pictures. i have been wondering about the holes in the bumperettes and your pictures cleared that up. also a good reference for mine since someone started to take it apart. i got the heater with the 40, but removed.
It was in North Texas clay up to the axles. That was its resting place for over a decade. The brakes were rusted to the drums. I pulled the drive shafts, changed the fluids in the axles, hand-mounted some recycled used tires, installed a tow-bar, and hauled it 260 miles from St. Paul, TX (NE of Dallas) to my then home in Kyle, Texas.
Thanks for the pictures. I recently got a 1966 FJ-40. I have been wondering about the holes in the bumperettes and your pictures cleared that up. also a good reference for mine since someone started to take it apart. i got the heater with the 40, but removed. i also currently live in a townhome w/o a garage, so a total rebuild is out for now. It is nice to see someone making progress.
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- #289
Looks like I've been idle on this thread for a while. Since I've been gone, I have had the tub sandblasted. I've also been slowly picking through small rust spots. I'm ready to do a little grinding and some hammer/dolly work, then prime soon with self etching. Hopefully, I can paint the tub and bolt it to the frame by summer's end. We'll see..
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- #290
More pics. There was an aftermarket heater in this thing with a plastic box and a random rusted out blower sloppily installed. My Land Cruiser was not a factory heat model. If I re-use the aftermarket heater core, I'll bend a decent looking box in sheet metal, and install it level.
I welded the crooked holes so I could start fresh at a later date.
I welded the crooked holes so I could start fresh at a later date.
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- #291
Reinstalled the toolbox today. I will be recruiting a few strong men to help me turn the tub over on saw horses for the final rust hole repairs, then prime.
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- #292
More patches going in the tub. I'm leaving for vacation tomorrow, but there's a chance I'll prime the bottom sometime the week of my return. I replaced the jump seat braces with 1.25 angle. I figure it's strong, simple, and offers a place for mud flap mounts, should I choose to go that route.
I figure I'll seal it all up with body seam sealer to prevent future rusting between braces and panels.
I figure I'll seal it all up with body seam sealer to prevent future rusting between braces and panels.
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- #293
I'm getting close to priming the bottom of the tub. Today, I did some final prep. Since the tub is upside down on saw horses, I took advantage of the opportunity to check out the underside of the dash. The drains for the cowl vent were clean from sandblasting, but perforated from rust. I couldn't get in there easily to repair by welding, nor could I come up with a reasonable idea for replacement nipples. I just sealed the holes with epoxy. Here are some terrible pictures.
PabloCruise
SILVER Star
How do you do your cleaning on the axle housings and parts? Nice!
- Thread starter
- #295
I used a pressure washer for the greasy interior, and a twisted wire wheel on a 4.5" angle grinder for the exterior of the housing.
just found and read this great thread. entertaining and imformative; you are a natural teacher. and great work on the old tojo as well. I like your sensible budget and diy approach.
interested what you consider the best way to install the freeze/welsh/core plugs and what size/source replacement you used?
love the look of that clean old starter against the new paint but why not go black on the engine?
and why do you think those rocker towers break? I have found that on a couple old 135 motors myself.
anyways motivating work; keep it up!
interested what you consider the best way to install the freeze/welsh/core plugs and what size/source replacement you used?
love the look of that clean old starter against the new paint but why not go black on the engine?
and why do you think those rocker towers break? I have found that on a couple old 135 motors myself.
anyways motivating work; keep it up!
Indestructible 47
SILVER Star
Very nice work! Keep it up. One question, what painting setup are you using?
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- #298
I think the rocker towers crack from over tightening, or possibly from casting porosity.
They look like a weak link in the design anyway.
They look like a weak link in the design anyway.
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- #299
I'm using a 26 gallon compressor with a 120v 5 horse motor that drives a 2 cylinder oiled pump.
From the tank, I ran 50 feet of 5/8 ID hose in the rafters across the garage into a Harbor freight separator and regulator.
Over the course of the project, I've been spraying with a Campbell Hausfeld gravity gun, but I recently purchased a kit that contains three guns that are true HVLP with different tip sizes made by Vaper (from Northern Tool). I use a desiccant dryer at the gun regulator and have been having great results. I painted my wife's hood and a few odds and ends with them. I actually just primed the underside of the tub with the 1.7mm gun. See next post...
From the tank, I ran 50 feet of 5/8 ID hose in the rafters across the garage into a Harbor freight separator and regulator.
Over the course of the project, I've been spraying with a Campbell Hausfeld gravity gun, but I recently purchased a kit that contains three guns that are true HVLP with different tip sizes made by Vaper (from Northern Tool). I use a desiccant dryer at the gun regulator and have been having great results. I painted my wife's hood and a few odds and ends with them. I actually just primed the underside of the tub with the 1.7mm gun. See next post...
- Thread starter
- #300
I primed the bottom of the tub with Advantage 325 2K DTM primer. Gray Durabak is on the way for undercoating.
Once undercoated, I'll turn everything over and prime the rest of the tub. I plan on applying Durabak to the top side of the floorboards as well for waterproofing, traction, and sound/heat management.
Once undercoated, I'll turn everything over and prime the rest of the tub. I plan on applying Durabak to the top side of the floorboards as well for waterproofing, traction, and sound/heat management.
