Builds Barn Find 1983 FJ45 Troopcarrier

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waiting for time said:
Thank you that helps alot.
I would apreciate if you can measure the diagonals like in the pictures below.

Thanks, Michael.
View attachment 1397654 View attachment 1397655
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That diagonal wouldn't be appropriate I guess. You have the triangle already. Door width, column width and footwent width these should give you that diagonals. However it can be variable due to that bracket on the dash.
If you insist I'll check however.
 
koxfarm said:
That diagonal wouldn't be appropriate I guess. You have the triangle already. Door width, column width and footwent width these should give you that diagonals. However it can be variable due to that bracket on the dash.
If you insist I'll check however.
Click to expand...
Mine is not completely square anymore. The brackets are in a fixed position within a few mm so it will give me a good indication. Just to give you an indication, the door opening left is 15mm smaller than the one on the right. The diagonal is 11 mm off. I know my B post on the left is bend inwards an the Cowl is bend to the rear on the left side.
 
Diagonals are the only true way to check squareness.
 
The rear axle is almost done..

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IMG_1145.webp
 
koxfarm said:
Bare stripped.. its amazing how this body got preserved after more than 35 years. Ok, there's going to be a few welds here and there but there are a number of panels that it needs no welding at all. These are the front doors, bonnet/hood, sills, wheel arches and windscreen. The only areas weld work will be necessary are on the rear tub, under the windscreen on left hand side and LH ambulance door. Few pitting spots need braised or filled .. hasn't decided yet but overall weld repair maybe 2-3 patches, well 4 at most.
The blasting cleaned out all the original tarblanket insulation under the foot floor and the firewall. Any idea what to replace those areas? I want to keep the troopy a hose out vehicle so I wouldn't consider any water soaking material. Also I dont mind the engine noise so I would only put back insulation on areas originally were. I wouldn't wrap the whole cabin as you can see many others do. Your input is valued here,?thanks!
Click to expand...

You asked for input to what to do to the floor. I used a truck bedliner product, called Raptor. It is tintable, so matches the vehicle, but is much better product, takes abuse, and if you scrape it, the same color is throughout. I also added a product called lizard skin that helps to insulate for noise and heat. Best to spray that on the bottom side, then spray on a bedliner product on top to protect the lizard skin.

Great work. love the pics.
 
I have set the rr bearings preload and finished the drums. Also done the brake load sensor with the oem kit. Then the swaybars. I had to order new bolts as the steel inserts of the bushings were cold welded to the bolts. This time I use anti sease to avoid the whole thing to freeze with rust. So oem bolts and mackay bushes all three.

IMG_1159.webp


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This is pornographic material.

Absolutely awesome work. Top Tier.
 
2fpower said:
You asked for input to what to do to the floor. I used a truck bedliner product, called Raptor. It is tintable, so matches the vehicle, but is much better product, takes abuse, and if you scrape it, the same color is throughout. I also added a product called lizard skin that helps to insulate for noise and heat. Best to spray that on the bottom side, then spray on a bedliner product on top to protect the lizard skin.

Great work. love the pics.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the info, those products are not my taste. I will spray a stone guard layer on the bottom instead of the body colour. I was actually asking for a mat to replace tar under the footmat that came off when it was paint stripped.
I am more and more convinced to simply not put anything. I may put an additional rubber mat under the footmat to have some additional protection.
The truth is no matter what you put on you will have noise and vibration, this is the type of vehicle that this is part of the charm.
Those butyl rubber adhesive sheets do nothing and only defacing the painted body style. The ones that has no aluminium top layer are going to melt and stick everything like tar. They are quite fragile and only work under carpeted vehicles.
I think the best option is a bedliner like you say, I just don't like it. Its too modern for this oldschool truck. I will leave the painted floor as is and will only cover with removeable vinyl or rubber mats.
 
Hello,

An extra carpet below the OEM one might help to reduce noise and remain easy to remove for a hose up at the same time.






Juan
 
koxfarm said:
Yes I know plastidip they are good for the clips and other brackets after zinc coating to restore the grips of them.
Click to expand...
Enough thicknes wil have a dampening effect on vibrations.
 
Some fantastic attention to details you have there.

I do have some questions for you though. First, I don't think there is a wrong answer to these question, but curiosity is getting the best of me. I see that the ball on the end of the axle housing, and the complete axle and birfield have been painted. I'm used to seeing them left unpainted. Do you have a reason, besides your extreme attention to detail? Also, there is a grease zerk on the outer end of the axle stub, which I've never seen before. Is this to push grease into the inside of the birfield?

Don
 
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