- Thread starter
- #81
I'm dead as a doughnut..
Builds Barn Find 1983 FJ45 Troopcarrier (1 Viewer)
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
- Joined
- Sep 25, 2011
- Threads
- 89
- Messages
- 3,678
- Location
- Harbour City, the New Southern Wales
- Website
- www.freewayoneentertainment.com
The gal process uses a lot of heat [I think?] so I've heard it can be less than ideal for frames. I'd powder coat, but be aware the powder adds a layer and therefore captive nut holes may need to be opened up first.
What happened to the polish and drive..?
What happened to the polish and drive..?
- Thread starter
- #84
This is not a small job. I'm not a mechanix just a man on the street but you need a lot of dedication to do this all alone.
My best friend right now pulling the frame apart is an oxigen torch. No need for a hughe one especially if you not always doing this kind work. I got mine just a small portable one. I have only, repeat ONLY broke two screws in the chassis and removed like 50 at least!
This is a great achievement taking the fact in consideration these were rusted in the weld-nuts for 33years!
There is no good solution if you broke a screw and its incredibly difficult to replace broken weld-nuts. My advise is to take your time and when you tired stop! Sometimes it can be 5 mins to 30 mins for removing a screw! And it can be a half-a-day to replace a weld-nut.
Heating up the screw head helps the removal but not always work. I have realised that sometimes you can't save the screw you better save the weld-nut.
When the screw moves to a certain point and then stops you should consider cutting the head and turn it inwards to the frame to fall out at the inside.
If you cut the head and make a cross on the screw you can drive it inwards with a screwdriver. Not easy!
My best friend right now pulling the frame apart is an oxigen torch. No need for a hughe one especially if you not always doing this kind work. I got mine just a small portable one. I have only, repeat ONLY broke two screws in the chassis and removed like 50 at least!
This is a great achievement taking the fact in consideration these were rusted in the weld-nuts for 33years!
There is no good solution if you broke a screw and its incredibly difficult to replace broken weld-nuts. My advise is to take your time and when you tired stop! Sometimes it can be 5 mins to 30 mins for removing a screw! And it can be a half-a-day to replace a weld-nut.
Heating up the screw head helps the removal but not always work. I have realised that sometimes you can't save the screw you better save the weld-nut.
When the screw moves to a certain point and then stops you should consider cutting the head and turn it inwards to the frame to fall out at the inside.
If you cut the head and make a cross on the screw you can drive it inwards with a screwdriver. Not easy!
- Thread starter
- #85
Polish may still be an option but drive was never my agenda. It was a resto project to start with and paint issues were coming up at the beginning..
Now I get the rolling chassis restored and then start worry about the body that may include revealing the old paint from underneath.
- Thread starter
- #86
I
Its still the most rewarding surface treatment I think.
A friend of mine advised me to galvanise and then powdercoat but I will only do powdercoat. It is yet a possible steel treatment with degassing the galvanised steel or give it a zinc phosphate bath adter the hot zinc dip but the problem is different. Galvanising meant to be a sacrificial surface treatment and hardens overtime as it oxidise (instead of the steel that it covers) and so why would I be covering this "active" cover with another water sealing cover?
The powdercoating seals off the steel by creating a barrier while galvanising is continuously oxidising instead of the steel. They both good but no point putting both on. It would be like putting on a glove before washing hands
))
Thanks, I'm aware of powdercoating as I had a pto winch restored with powdercoated gear house. I had to run passed a tap every thread and hole.
Its still the most rewarding surface treatment I think.
A friend of mine advised me to galvanise and then powdercoat but I will only do powdercoat. It is yet a possible steel treatment with degassing the galvanised steel or give it a zinc phosphate bath adter the hot zinc dip but the problem is different. Galvanising meant to be a sacrificial surface treatment and hardens overtime as it oxidise (instead of the steel that it covers) and so why would I be covering this "active" cover with another water sealing cover?
The powdercoating seals off the steel by creating a barrier while galvanising is continuously oxidising instead of the steel. They both good but no point putting both on. It would be like putting on a glove before washing hands
))
- Thread starter
- #87
Weekends are Not for hard work.. so I thought I check the least important and probably last bit one would consider of a restoration.. kerosine scrub and a good rinse after soapy water and almost as good as new.
- Thread starter
- #88
Sorry, I forgot the "before" pic
- Thread starter
- #89
I noticed that there is an L4 stamp revealed under the Japan. Does anybody know about these makings or is it the same on any other tool bags? Can it stand for 40 series? But then what is the L?
"Love my 40" truck.. maybe?
"Love my 40" truck.. maybe?
- Thread starter
- #90
QUESTION:
As mentioned before I use oxigen torch to unscrew rusted bolts. I often save bolts and screws if possible to then get the oem look by anodising them. Can I re use the heat treated bolts again or would the heat shock/slow cooling cause change at it's tensile characteristics?
As mentioned before I use oxigen torch to unscrew rusted bolts. I often save bolts and screws if possible to then get the oem look by anodising them. Can I re use the heat treated bolts again or would the heat shock/slow cooling cause change at it's tensile characteristics?
if you want to protect the frame, the only way to guarantee it is to galvanize-dip it. Powder coating makes the outside pretty but does nothing to protect inside the boxed sections. I used a spray-on-a-long-hose stuff and was less-then thrilled with its result. I don't feel it fully covered the area and it made a huge mess because the paint itself is very thin (highly reduced) and basically drains out of anything it can.
paint under hinges - I've now stripped and worked 6 doors for a FJ40 (long story), and not one of them had paint or primer under the hinges - but it did have a good coat of rust protecting it
- not sure what Toyota was thinking, but it is what it is.
paint under hinges - I've now stripped and worked 6 doors for a FJ40 (long story), and not one of them had paint or primer under the hinges - but it did have a good coat of rust protecting it
- not sure what Toyota was thinking, but it is what it is.
- Joined
- May 21, 2009
- Threads
- 296
- Messages
- 1,382
- Location
- Paradise Calgary Alberta Canada
- Website
- forum.ih8mud.com
My frame was hot dip galvanized. actually dipping the whole frame into numerous vats then the final being the galvanizing. If one can afford it I would think that would be the best way to go ! just have some cheap bolts to screw into all the bolt holes before galvanizing.
- Thread starter
- #94
Weekend special.. rear wiring loom rebuild or better say clean up from outback's red dirt. I also changed the flexible tubes and re-welded the trailer connector wiring. Removed all connectors and thoroughly cleaned them and polished all oxide off brass.
I know its a bit early but I like working from both ends.
I know its a bit early but I like working from both ends.
- Thread starter
- #95
I am awaiting for the OME suspension set to arrive in two/three weeks. In the meantime I want to get the powdercoating sorted. The frame is cleaned its only to remove the axles, but I want to keep it rolling until I take it to the painter.
Today, I had to raise up so I could wash all the mud from the chassis. I really thought today that ih8mud especially the one caked in for +10 years ago. I had it really well cleaned.. so many stones and gravel.. I actually looked for gold nuggets but only steel)
Next step is to replace the few broken weld-nuts. Lucky me all accessible through the service holes.
Today, I had to raise up so I could wash all the mud from the chassis. I really thought today that ih8mud especially the one caked in for +10 years ago. I had it really well cleaned.. so many stones and gravel.. I actually looked for gold nuggets but only steel
)Next step is to replace the few broken weld-nuts. Lucky me all accessible through the service holes.
The "L" may stand for Land Cruiser. Tool kits tagged with "L" seem to be exclusive to Land Cruisers. The number identifies the assortment of tools in the kit. Land Cruiser examples range from L3-L60, there are probably more. Toyota uses other letters to designate kits for other vehicles, for example, "C" for Corolla, "W" for 4Runner, "V" for pickups. Some examples.
- Thread starter
- #97
Very Cool... thanks for the info. so your L60 is from a 60-series? probably mine is 4 because its a 40-series../
When I lived in Sydney as a grad student, my fellow grad student at UNSW was studying Aborigines and was going to live in the Outback for a year. As he was a Japanese student and had only recently got his drivers license, he asked me to help him find a 4 wheel drive that he could use during his time in the Northern Territory. We went shopping the used car lots in Sydney and late one day found a 1984 FJ45 Troopy (This was in 1996). It was a former NSW bushfire vehicle. Had 19,000k on the clock and looked like it had just rolled off the factory floor. It was painted orange, which was factory paint, so maybe at that time, they were able to order paint codes from the factory, if they were buying a large enough number of vehicles. I drove with him from Sydney to Darwin, teaching him to drive off-road along the way. It performed perfectly, but above 60 mph, it would start to suck fuel pretty nicely (could have used a 5 speed). My friend also killed 2 kangaroos on two separate occasions as they say on the road in the dusk. You heard them hit more than felt it. The troopy absorbed it like nothing had happened. Great trip that I will never forget.
- Thread starter
- #99
Very good story! - love the history of these vehicles. They all had a purpose, not like today's cars ..
- Thread starter
- #100
I have found this nos unicorn from Jordan.. the best part of a resto is the quest and hunt for parts. The problem is you never find what you need but find things you don't really need yet can't just leave. So this alternator for $150 was one of those..
