- Thread starter
- #41
Thanks a lot now I am familiar with what I'm up against. When I did the carby it burnt my hand like hell even through rubber gloves. I had to buy special acid resistant gloves..
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Please re-read the label---"removes several layers of paint in a single application"---I would be very VERY careful if using this stuff(as a matter of fact--I wouldn't use it.)--the truck is too pristine to damage the OEM paint, if you can help it--
When it bubbles wipe it off with a rag and then rinse the area with water. It'll be quick and definitely won't remove the Oem paint in near the time to be an issue..... 95% sure : )
- Thread starter
- #45
Thats what I thinking too.
This is a 1983 truck. In 83' it was painted with a safety white (thick paint) one layer with brush or roller. Army-style painting. Than in 2003 went in the barn. No preping or sanding before it got white and then no much sunshine either to burn it on. What I presume the white couldnt glue to the oem paint so well.
Maybe its my big luck to find a pristine oem paint underneath, well preserved under the white.
I have to get onto it and less theory now. Next week I will update with test photos
Great looking troopy!
ginmtb
'74 FJ40 - my first!
Is any paint peeling? I read something about trying to pull off the paint with duct tape. If no prep was done it is possible that there isn't a good bond. The recommendation was to apply duct tape, press down firmly, and then pull straight off - as in both ends at the same time. Probably a long shot but you might want to exhaust all options before you start on the chemicals. If you can get any of the paint to start to come off that may be what you need to take it all off. Wonder what kind of paint they used? With a roller is hilarious but makes sense based on the description above. Good luck!
Try some paint thinner first, maybe the white paint desolves with a different solvent. At least you won't be taking to much off at once. If you leave the paint remover only a moment to long it will leave you no choice but to remove all paint and respray. If you do decide to use it don't use it on a hot day or in the sun, the cicle times wil become unpredictable making it difficult to use on only the top layer.
- Thread starter
- #50
Today, changed the oil, filters
and sparks. The oil drain plug was so hard to move it I had to join a yard long steel pipe to the wrench.
The engine is running really smoothly.
About the paint, attached a few pics of areas it is peeling off. Those areas the masking tape pull-off technique seems working. The white is a brute thick layer almost like an icing. It doesn't react to turps or petrol. Acetone makes it slippery but doesnt dissolve it.
Remains the stripper.. continuing
and sparks. The oil drain plug was so hard to move it I had to join a yard long steel pipe to the wrench.
The engine is running really smoothly.
About the paint, attached a few pics of areas it is peeling off. Those areas the masking tape pull-off technique seems working. The white is a brute thick layer almost like an icing. It doesn't react to turps or petrol. Acetone makes it slippery but doesnt dissolve it.
Remains the stripper.. continuing
- Thread starter
- #51
Looking at a bright future.. well, the test seems like working. I have tested three areas. First at the spare wheel carrier to see reaction of the chemical. Then two patches on the body. Pics attached.
The "digger" worked which is the aussie equivalent for aircraft stripper. Medium thickness applied over removeable paint with brush and after about 30 seconds the paint started discolour and bubble.
I have than just wiped off the grime that left from the white paint.
The oem paint remains intact underneath. I have experienced a grey undercoat the white. That undercoat seems coming off a bit harder than the paint and behaves as if it was a filler or some sort of cement.
It actually delays the stripper to attack the oem paint which allows me to adequately remove the layers and still protect the oem.
One question remain unanswered is how matte the oem will turn out once the white is removed. Or, would the stripper remove some of the shiny surface of the oem turning it matte. I couldn't actually decide weather the oem was originally matte or that is an effect of the stripper.
I will need to disassemble the whole body anyway and so it will be easier to strip the paint off too.
That action will have to wait now as I have a few other projects on the list before I can fully dedicate my time to do this paint-resto.
Will be continued.
The "digger" worked which is the aussie equivalent for aircraft stripper. Medium thickness applied over removeable paint with brush and after about 30 seconds the paint started discolour and bubble.
I have than just wiped off the grime that left from the white paint.
The oem paint remains intact underneath. I have experienced a grey undercoat the white. That undercoat seems coming off a bit harder than the paint and behaves as if it was a filler or some sort of cement.
It actually delays the stripper to attack the oem paint which allows me to adequately remove the layers and still protect the oem.
One question remain unanswered is how matte the oem will turn out once the white is removed. Or, would the stripper remove some of the shiny surface of the oem turning it matte. I couldn't actually decide weather the oem was originally matte or that is an effect of the stripper.
I will need to disassemble the whole body anyway and so it will be easier to strip the paint off too.
That action will have to wait now as I have a few other projects on the list before I can fully dedicate my time to do this paint-resto.
Will be continued.
- Thread starter
- #52
--
ginmtb
'74 FJ40 - my first!
Looking good! You will need to buff the paint to get the shine back - some light cutting polish maybe. But start with the least abrasive polish you can. Test and adjust as they say... 
Looks very promising 
It'll be a painstaking effort, but certainly beats repainting the vehicle.
It'll be a painstaking effort, but certainly beats repainting the vehicle.
- Thread starter
- #56
- Thread starter
- #57
The only rust so far is under the LH corner of the windshield frame. Its been in a dry barn for very long time but this rust was still actively wet!!! Unbeliveable!!
Other sensitive areas are perfect with no rust at all. Ie rear corners, side panel/roof edges.
Only some surface rust at one or two spot on the roof frame.
Other sensitive areas are perfect with no rust at all. Ie rear corners, side panel/roof edges.
Only some surface rust at one or two spot on the roof frame.
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Morning mate,
What a find! Love it!! Reading the thread start to finish is like watching a thriller unfold when the paint stripper comes out, but then it works out in the end! It was a close call!
The stripper will most likely remove the sheen from the 416. But it can be restored with a cutting compound and if needs be a coat of clear. You can always try wet rubbing with 2500 grit paper. Just got be real careful with high spots. Or if a few high spots reveal primer or even bare metal it wouldn't be the end of the world seeing as the truck is 33 years old! Then just clear over the top.
But well done.
What a find! Love it!! Reading the thread start to finish is like watching a thriller unfold when the paint stripper comes out, but then it works out in the end! It was a close call!
The stripper will most likely remove the sheen from the 416. But it can be restored with a cutting compound and if needs be a coat of clear. You can always try wet rubbing with 2500 grit paper. Just got be real careful with high spots. Or if a few high spots reveal primer or even bare metal it wouldn't be the end of the world seeing as the truck is 33 years old! Then just clear over the top.
But well done.
- Thread starter
- #59
Yeah well .. "clear over the top" I understand but wasn't it supposed to be a single stage paint? I actually wouldn't mind the matte 464. But I think it won't be so stable anyway. the stripper takes away the orange peel from it too. Its like a smooth 464 matte.
- Thread starter
- #60
I realised something.. maybe others knew this but for me its new. there were only primer under the door hinges I think the original production must have been an an assembled bib with doors and sides without the bonnet and sills and got coloured like that. I see so many guys doing restoration with paint job on the doors off. Than the tolerances wont match and noone wants to screw up the new door with adjusting the bolts and scratching the hinge area. So if anyone wants to do a perfect paint resto it must be sprayed doors on. You need adjust the doors and paint over the bolts too.
