Builds Barn Find 1983 FJ45 Troopcarrier (1 Viewer)

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Soaking the crankshaft bolthead in WD40 for two days gave me some momentum and success..
I also started glassbead blasting the gearbox/transf.box but underestimated the recycling capacity of abrasives. And the afternoon wind which is called here the "Freo Doctor" was on the side of the dust creating beautiful red glassbead dunes on my gravel front yard.
So happy weekend for all, I go stay with my kids and let the jumpsuit get washed.

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Take all your WD40 and heap it in a big pile and torch it. Then go buy a 5L drum of Inox and cut your wait time in half. It's the bomb.
 
Cults right inox is better
 
Quick question: what parts can I have powdercoated in the engine bay? Ie: air filter housing, engine mount arms, clutch housing.. of course the engine is not but would it withstand some heat?
 
powder coat bakes at 450 degrees F, so anything that never gets hotter then that is fine. You can ceramic coat the engine - but I'm sticking with what I said before, paint is every bit as good as coatings. Not only that, but it costs less and can be touched up. I use KBS coating for frames, ceramic engine enamel for motors, and regular enamel for everything else.
 
powder coat bakes at 450 degrees F, so anything that never gets hotter then that is fine. You can ceramic coat the engine - but I'm sticking with what I said before, paint is every bit as good as coatings. Not only that, but it costs less and can be touched up. I use KBS coating for frames, ceramic engine enamel for motors, and regular enamel for everything else.
Thanks for quick reply!
 
powder coat bakes at 450 degrees F, so anything that never gets hotter then that is fine. You can ceramic coat the engine - but I'm sticking with what I said before, paint is every bit as good as coatings. Not only that, but it costs less and can be touched up. I use KBS coating for frames, ceramic engine enamel for motors, and regular enamel for everything else.
I found KBS in Australia and they are offering exactly what I'm after.
Coatings | Product Categories | KBS Coatings Australia
On the hot parts I will use XTC primer and engine gloss black/aluminium or XTC gloss black/aluminium coats.
I will use the same on gearbox, transfer case, clutch house, calipers and brake cyls., too. Apart from being oil and brake fluid resistant Motorcoater is listed 460F and XTC is 1500 F heat resistant with their respective primers. They have my colours (gloss black and alu) and it seems like a straight forward HVLP spray job with non or little (5-10%) added thinner.
I just have to finish sandblasting which is a nasty job unless you dress up like darth wader..haha
 
Very tired today.. emgine was prepared for blasting yesterday. Oil filter housing, distributor, fuel pump were off and all holes pluged and taped with blast resistant tape.
Today, I had the frame totally prepared for taking to painter tomorrow. 14 weldnuts were welded in place. Now there are all factory weld nut in place. Really happy about it. Luckily the really hardcore hidden ones came out with the torch. I had all rear corner replaced, 4 out of the 6 gearbox splash guard screws and one of the lower M12 holding the bracket of the gearbox.
A photo is more than a million words, so enjoy the pics..

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The second to last photo shows the rear lights frame and the corner holding the lights splash guards.
I have made some modifications here.. no big deal but how many of us has the weld nut broken or off anyway? I guess 9/10. So the two oem light holding bolts are M5 and I decided to upgrade them to M6's. The bolt head will fit perfectly behind the light cover and will hold the light frame more secured. Also in 10-20 years when my son will replace the lights he wont have to put a nut replacing the broken M5 weldnut.
Go M6 Go!
I'm off to the powdercoater now.
More pics follow today
 
LH wiring harness rebuild or makeover as it is moreabout a thorough clean and removal of oxide from the sockets.
I have a few damaged wire to replace.
I am waiting for the prototype of the wiring loom grommet by City Racer.
Its very important if someone is taking the tedious work of a wiring loom rebuild to remove all sockets and clean and check all wires. I am not a 'lectrician but its so easy like lego. A new firewall grommet re-make will truly crown this effort.
I have tagged all wires so no surprises when getting the connections back in place.

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..blasting continues, engine, gearbox, fr axle are done and the rr about hald way.
I hope my KBS paints from Autopower Balcatta hopefully arrives in a week and I can start getting these guys black. And silver. I used Indian garnet (black) but the absolute winner is the Australian red garnet. Nearly no dust at all and keep biting the rust while its gentle on the metal. I go a bit on the angle of aluminium parts and it gives a fine satin surface. The Indian stuff was very coarse and dusty.

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Since my RR diff bearing and oil seals are due for a change and I cant perfectly do that job and set the payload, I have taken the diff to my friend Pierre. b_pierre@bigpond.com He has a home-shop and he is a toyota gear and diff overhauler. Well the problem is he is also a good overhauler on my pocket and after considering his very generous offer I have decided I will make this troopy a 5 speed convert.
The deal is that I will paint the housings and he assembles it. I thought if I have to overhaul the prop shafts I might as well cut them down to specs and balance them too. Ok, thats Pierre doing it cos you really need a pro to weld shafts on a lathe..
He had rebuilt my H55F in my other LX and I love my new gears. Her previous owner used to tow a boat in 5th and that f**d the whole thing up. Should only tow in 4th at highest!!!
Anyway, take a look at his shelf..he is awesome, well its not hard to be awesome after so many years at toyota service centre.

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