I wish we had video of charades with Pancho! Maybe Mike has Eric and Ken. I have the same pic of Luis and his 80 on the plaza at San Ignacio and I have this one at camp.
Baja Adventure 2013
- Thread starter pappy
- Start date
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A few random pics
A nice 75 ute we encountered
Keep your arms and legs inside the vehicle at all times
Be nice to the kids with guns. And remember, they like butter.
A nice 75 ute we encountered
Keep your arms and legs inside the vehicle at all times
Be nice to the kids with guns. And remember, they like butter.
A few more.
Even Jon enjoyed the whales.
Even Jon enjoyed the whales.
Some more
And more.
An unhappy stingray.
Jon contemplating the swim (he waited until the next day)
Our luxury accommodations for one night.
An unhappy stingray.
Jon contemplating the swim (he waited until the next day)
Our luxury accommodations for one night.
alia176
SILVER Star
how were crossing the checkpoints?
Hiking in the oasis, approaching the big a** swim hole
Hiking to the rock art, watch for jumping cholla, right Mike?
Coco's Corner--services available: cold beer and tire repair
Hiking to the rock art, watch for jumping cholla, right Mike?
Coco's Corner--services available: cold beer and tire repair
- Thread starter
- #88
Keep your arms and legs inside the vehicle at all times.
Be nice to the kids with guns.
And remember, they like butter.
Laughing my ass off. Ya all had to be there!
- Thread starter
- #89
I did, though not the ride back.
- Thread starter
- #91
Ya, especially when they wanted something. We were even waved though the checkpoint at Hwy 3. Shocking, and the first time that happened.
- Thread starter
- #92
So, here is the start of my version of the trip report. David and Mike should also have some other insight.
When traveling in Baja you need to be flexible. Schedules and itineraries are worthless. Things happened. As I say, “it’s all part of the adventure.” This year, Mike’s mom passed away the week before the trip and it looked like it might not happen for him. Fortunately, he was able to compromise and make half the trip.
Then, 30 miles from Flagstaff I broke the timing chain in the 4Runner. Long story short, thanks to the folks at IH8MUD.com we were able to locate, quickly, a mechanic that could work on the truck. So it was towed to the shop in a raging snow storm. I had already field dressed the engine to make the diagnosis, and the plan was to acquire the parts, have it fixed that night, and have it ready to depart in the morning. Well, that was a great plan until we did a leak-down test and found out I bent the #4 intake valve. Sucks to be me at that point.
Decisions were made, my gear was loaded into Mike and David’s 80s, and the 4Runner was abandoned in the hands of Dave Anderson for two weeks.
The adventure must go on.
When traveling in Baja you need to be flexible. Schedules and itineraries are worthless. Things happened. As I say, “it’s all part of the adventure.” This year, Mike’s mom passed away the week before the trip and it looked like it might not happen for him. Fortunately, he was able to compromise and make half the trip.
Then, 30 miles from Flagstaff I broke the timing chain in the 4Runner. Long story short, thanks to the folks at IH8MUD.com we were able to locate, quickly, a mechanic that could work on the truck. So it was towed to the shop in a raging snow storm. I had already field dressed the engine to make the diagnosis, and the plan was to acquire the parts, have it fixed that night, and have it ready to depart in the morning. Well, that was a great plan until we did a leak-down test and found out I bent the #4 intake valve. Sucks to be me at that point.
Decisions were made, my gear was loaded into Mike and David’s 80s, and the 4Runner was abandoned in the hands of Dave Anderson for two weeks.
The adventure must go on.
- Thread starter
- #93
Day One
We depart Flagstaff in the morning for Baja, crossing at Algodones around 2:00pm local time. We knew there was a race in San Felipe, and had originally hoped to catch some of the action. We arrived in SF just in time for the awards. The entire southbound lane of Mex 5 was closed and all traffic was routed onto the northbound side. One lane north, one lane south. Took us forever to get through town and after fuel we were out just as the sun set. We camped in Matomi wash about 30 miles south of town.
Day Two
We drive down Mex 5 for Gonzaga Bay. The road is now paved until just about 6 miles north of the Bay. Bummer. I have mixed feeling about the paving. There is an old saying that “bad roads bring good people.” That road was miserable and Gonzaga Bay was usually a two day trip. Now, it only takes a few hours, which worked out great for this trip as we needed to be in San Ignacio by the end of the day. The road is still dirt from Gonazga Bay to Chapala on Mex 1.
Before heading to Mex 1 we make at stop at Coco’s corner. Unfortunately he is not in. As we turn onto Mex 1 at Chapala we are joined by Luis in a diesel converted FZJ80. Long story short, the truck came out of the US, the engine was sourced in Canada, and installed in California. He was taking it back down to Mexico where he was working. He joined us.
We drive, only stopping for fuel, and arrive in San Ignacio around 5:00pm local time. I realize that the eco-tour office is probably not going to be open after 5:00 on a Sunday, but we drive to the plaza just in case. The office is open, and I jump out while David and the others park. I tell the guy that three of us would like to go whale watching the next day. He asks if I have a reservation. My heart sinks. No, we don’t. He calls a boat and I hear the word “total.” My heart sinks again. He calls a second boat, the conversation is much longer, and we are in. I’m ecstatic! He then tells us to meet at the office at 8:00 the next morning.
After getting our reservations we walk around the plaza the bit, use the banos (5 pesos) and decide to have dinner. There was a restaurant on the west side of the plaza that looked good. All four of us order tacos de pescado y Pacifico. This was the first time down there I had them served with the traditional cabbage instead of lettuce. Plus, the fish was grilled instead of fried. Exceptional!
Our original plan was to camp at the Kuyima eco-tour facility on the bay, another hour, at least, away. We discuss options and decide to camp in an RV park we passed on the way in. The RV park was located in a date palm grove right on the lagoon. It turned out to be a near perfect place to camp. I say “near” because it would not be up to US standards and some folks would have issues with the, um, facilities, but hey, it’s Baja. The place was clean and quiet. Cost was 70 pesos, about six bucks.
We depart Flagstaff in the morning for Baja, crossing at Algodones around 2:00pm local time. We knew there was a race in San Felipe, and had originally hoped to catch some of the action. We arrived in SF just in time for the awards. The entire southbound lane of Mex 5 was closed and all traffic was routed onto the northbound side. One lane north, one lane south. Took us forever to get through town and after fuel we were out just as the sun set. We camped in Matomi wash about 30 miles south of town.
Day Two
We drive down Mex 5 for Gonzaga Bay. The road is now paved until just about 6 miles north of the Bay. Bummer. I have mixed feeling about the paving. There is an old saying that “bad roads bring good people.” That road was miserable and Gonzaga Bay was usually a two day trip. Now, it only takes a few hours, which worked out great for this trip as we needed to be in San Ignacio by the end of the day. The road is still dirt from Gonazga Bay to Chapala on Mex 1.
Before heading to Mex 1 we make at stop at Coco’s corner. Unfortunately he is not in. As we turn onto Mex 1 at Chapala we are joined by Luis in a diesel converted FZJ80. Long story short, the truck came out of the US, the engine was sourced in Canada, and installed in California. He was taking it back down to Mexico where he was working. He joined us.
We drive, only stopping for fuel, and arrive in San Ignacio around 5:00pm local time. I realize that the eco-tour office is probably not going to be open after 5:00 on a Sunday, but we drive to the plaza just in case. The office is open, and I jump out while David and the others park. I tell the guy that three of us would like to go whale watching the next day. He asks if I have a reservation. My heart sinks. No, we don’t. He calls a boat and I hear the word “total.” My heart sinks again. He calls a second boat, the conversation is much longer, and we are in. I’m ecstatic! He then tells us to meet at the office at 8:00 the next morning.
After getting our reservations we walk around the plaza the bit, use the banos (5 pesos) and decide to have dinner. There was a restaurant on the west side of the plaza that looked good. All four of us order tacos de pescado y Pacifico. This was the first time down there I had them served with the traditional cabbage instead of lettuce. Plus, the fish was grilled instead of fried. Exceptional!
Our original plan was to camp at the Kuyima eco-tour facility on the bay, another hour, at least, away. We discuss options and decide to camp in an RV park we passed on the way in. The RV park was located in a date palm grove right on the lagoon. It turned out to be a near perfect place to camp. I say “near” because it would not be up to US standards and some folks would have issues with the, um, facilities, but hey, it’s Baja. The place was clean and quiet. Cost was 70 pesos, about six bucks.
- Thread starter
- #94
Day Three
We meet at the plaza at 8:00am and drive out to the bay. There we are greeted and orientated for the day. Boat ride would be 15 minutes. Whale watching would be about an hour and a half. Then another 15 minutes back. Don’t touch the eyes, blow hole, or the fins. Cost, $45US. Do we want lunch when we come back? Chicken, fish, shrimp? Sí, pescado por favor.
There are 8 of us in the boat, in two groups. At first we saw whales, but they were not “friendly.” That did change and before we know it they are up to the boat. And I mean within touching distance. This was my second time down here, and it was just as cool the second time around. It was worth the long two days and miles.
We decide to camp at the eco-tour facility. Cost, $12US per site. The three of us cram into one site. I pitch my tent, while David and Mike sleep in their trucks. Good thing. The wind howled most of the night, moving a bit of sand into my tent. “Facilities” are clean, but primitive. They also had “showers.” When I was there in 2005 showers consisted of a solar shower hot water bag that you hung in a stall. This time they had a solar hot water tank, but no running water, like before. You filled up a bucket with hot water (mixed with cold, it was screaming hot), and took a sponge bath. Primitive, but it worked. As I said, it’s Baja. As is typical for remote places in Baja they are on solar power, both wind and photovoltaic.
We meet at the plaza at 8:00am and drive out to the bay. There we are greeted and orientated for the day. Boat ride would be 15 minutes. Whale watching would be about an hour and a half. Then another 15 minutes back. Don’t touch the eyes, blow hole, or the fins. Cost, $45US. Do we want lunch when we come back? Chicken, fish, shrimp? Sí, pescado por favor.
There are 8 of us in the boat, in two groups. At first we saw whales, but they were not “friendly.” That did change and before we know it they are up to the boat. And I mean within touching distance. This was my second time down here, and it was just as cool the second time around. It was worth the long two days and miles.
We decide to camp at the eco-tour facility. Cost, $12US per site. The three of us cram into one site. I pitch my tent, while David and Mike sleep in their trucks. Good thing. The wind howled most of the night, moving a bit of sand into my tent. “Facilities” are clean, but primitive. They also had “showers.” When I was there in 2005 showers consisted of a solar shower hot water bag that you hung in a stall. This time they had a solar hot water tank, but no running water, like before. You filled up a bucket with hot water (mixed with cold, it was screaming hot), and took a sponge bath. Primitive, but it worked. As I said, it’s Baja. As is typical for remote places in Baja they are on solar power, both wind and photovoltaic.
- Thread starter
- #95
Day Four
On the way out to the Sea of Cortez we stop on the San Ignacio plaza to visit the mission. This is an old stone mission that still appears to be in use. We check out the inside, then outside. David climbed up a staircase on the outside that would give OSHA a heart attack. Narrow, high, and no railing. The good old days. We also walk around the gardens where David and Mike both ask about the sweet smell. Citrus. There is also an old grape vine with interesting training. After the mission we hit a taco stand for fish tacos. Gawd those things are good.
Just outside of El Arco I had heard of a cave painting site. With my directions we drive to the trail head. You could see the cave and art from the parking spot. We hiked up and it blew all of us away. Spectacular. What I thought was interesting is they had figures with boobs. I had not seen that before.
Mostly when driving around remote parts of Baja you don’t see many people. On the way over to the Gulf we had race trucks on the road coming at us. Three total, and they were not happy to slow down.
From there we headed for camp at Bahia San Rafael. When we pulled up to the beach there were two guys on motorcycles. Eric and Ken were agreeable to sharing the beach, so we made camp at the opposite end. The evening was perfect, calm, and not too chilly. David and I practiced our casting, but didn’t catch anything. Eric did catch a halibut.
On the way out to the Sea of Cortez we stop on the San Ignacio plaza to visit the mission. This is an old stone mission that still appears to be in use. We check out the inside, then outside. David climbed up a staircase on the outside that would give OSHA a heart attack. Narrow, high, and no railing. The good old days. We also walk around the gardens where David and Mike both ask about the sweet smell. Citrus. There is also an old grape vine with interesting training. After the mission we hit a taco stand for fish tacos. Gawd those things are good.
Just outside of El Arco I had heard of a cave painting site. With my directions we drive to the trail head. You could see the cave and art from the parking spot. We hiked up and it blew all of us away. Spectacular. What I thought was interesting is they had figures with boobs. I had not seen that before.
Mostly when driving around remote parts of Baja you don’t see many people. On the way over to the Gulf we had race trucks on the road coming at us. Three total, and they were not happy to slow down.
From there we headed for camp at Bahia San Rafael. When we pulled up to the beach there were two guys on motorcycles. Eric and Ken were agreeable to sharing the beach, so we made camp at the opposite end. The evening was perfect, calm, and not too chilly. David and I practiced our casting, but didn’t catch anything. Eric did catch a halibut.
- Thread starter
- #96
Day Five
The next morning Eric was back at the beach fishing and was stung by a stingray. The barb didn’t jab him, instead slicing his toes. He was cut open and bleeding. We helped with chemicals (alcohol, not the topical kind) and first aid.
This was a kick back day. Eric told us about Pancho who lived at the end of the bay. He said to go over and say hi for him. We were to tell him that Enrique with the “crazy eye” was with us, and he had been stung by a stingray. So we hiked down to the end of the bay where we found Pancho sitting in the shade. We attempted to explain that Enrique with the “crazy eye” was with us, and about the stingray. This turned into a comical display of charades.
Pancho is an interesting character, and finally we communicate the stingray part, at which point he pulls out a barb for us to look at. “Discussion” continues and he invites us into his casa where he sets up a table, pulls out a cup with dice, and the charades continue. It turns out that he was giving us directions to some sort of dice game using Corona Beer dice. I roll first, and he sets aside two dice. No idea why. I roll three times. This it’s his turn, then Mike’s, then David’s. By the time we get to Mike we figure out that is he pulling out the dice with the Corona logo, and he keeps calling me “champion.” After David rolls his third time, Pancho hands me the stingray barb and proclaims me “champion.” Now we get it.
Mike took Pancho some treats, and Pancho reciprocated with jerky, which was very good. His dog followed us all the way back to camp. Eric was doing better.
Back at camp we are harassed by a horse fly. I really don’t like those biting bloodsuckers so I go on the hunt. Very quick and elusive they are, but I’m a capable hunter. Don’t ask me how, but I took a swing at the fly with my hat, and somehow it ended up in the crown of the hat. I quickly tossed the hat on the ground trapping my pray, then noticed it was trying to crawl out, so I buried the brim all the way around with sand … then stood there wondering what the hell I should do next.
Discussions with Mike and David, and I decided to pass judgment Gladiator style. Thumbs up or thumbs down. Eric came over about that time and the unanimous consensus was thumbs down. Nobody else likes those giant bloodsucking flies either. After dispatch it was given a proper burial.
The next morning Eric was back at the beach fishing and was stung by a stingray. The barb didn’t jab him, instead slicing his toes. He was cut open and bleeding. We helped with chemicals (alcohol, not the topical kind) and first aid.
This was a kick back day. Eric told us about Pancho who lived at the end of the bay. He said to go over and say hi for him. We were to tell him that Enrique with the “crazy eye” was with us, and he had been stung by a stingray. So we hiked down to the end of the bay where we found Pancho sitting in the shade. We attempted to explain that Enrique with the “crazy eye” was with us, and about the stingray. This turned into a comical display of charades.
Pancho is an interesting character, and finally we communicate the stingray part, at which point he pulls out a barb for us to look at. “Discussion” continues and he invites us into his casa where he sets up a table, pulls out a cup with dice, and the charades continue. It turns out that he was giving us directions to some sort of dice game using Corona Beer dice. I roll first, and he sets aside two dice. No idea why. I roll three times. This it’s his turn, then Mike’s, then David’s. By the time we get to Mike we figure out that is he pulling out the dice with the Corona logo, and he keeps calling me “champion.” After David rolls his third time, Pancho hands me the stingray barb and proclaims me “champion.” Now we get it.
Mike took Pancho some treats, and Pancho reciprocated with jerky, which was very good. His dog followed us all the way back to camp. Eric was doing better.
Back at camp we are harassed by a horse fly. I really don’t like those biting bloodsuckers so I go on the hunt. Very quick and elusive they are, but I’m a capable hunter. Don’t ask me how, but I took a swing at the fly with my hat, and somehow it ended up in the crown of the hat. I quickly tossed the hat on the ground trapping my pray, then noticed it was trying to crawl out, so I buried the brim all the way around with sand … then stood there wondering what the hell I should do next.
Discussions with Mike and David, and I decided to pass judgment Gladiator style. Thumbs up or thumbs down. Eric came over about that time and the unanimous consensus was thumbs down. Nobody else likes those giant bloodsucking flies either. After dispatch it was given a proper burial.
- Thread starter
- #97
Day Six
We leave for Bahia de los Angeles. On the way I make a detour toward Bahia las Animas. We spend some time at the bay, then continue on, arriving in LA Bay about lunch time. David had a flat tire that needed repair, so he went over to the llantera while Mike and I went to the Internet Cafe across the street. Of course, they were down, so we hung out as David had his tire fixed.
After getting the tire fixed we went over to the Museum. Two years ago Carolina was not there, but she was this time. Throughout the entire trip Mike and David kept asking me questions I didn’t know the answer to, and I kept saying we will ask Carolina when we get to the museo. Next time, we will write them down.
We then check into Villa Bahia and had a nice chat with Roger, and meet his menagerie of old dogs. We are the only people there, so Roger tells us we can have the pick of rooms. I had already reserved one of the lesser rooms, but he insisted we upgrade.
For dinner we head into town and eat at a new place (to me) called Alejandrina’s at the recommendation of Roger. We looked over the menu and started to chuckle at the translation of “Burros con pollo” into “donkeys with chicken,” “aguas frescas” into “fresh water,” and “Negra Modelo” into “Model black beer.” Roger recommended the chile rellenos so I went with that. Very good and lots of food.
We leave for Bahia de los Angeles. On the way I make a detour toward Bahia las Animas. We spend some time at the bay, then continue on, arriving in LA Bay about lunch time. David had a flat tire that needed repair, so he went over to the llantera while Mike and I went to the Internet Cafe across the street. Of course, they were down, so we hung out as David had his tire fixed.
After getting the tire fixed we went over to the Museum. Two years ago Carolina was not there, but she was this time. Throughout the entire trip Mike and David kept asking me questions I didn’t know the answer to, and I kept saying we will ask Carolina when we get to the museo. Next time, we will write them down.
We then check into Villa Bahia and had a nice chat with Roger, and meet his menagerie of old dogs. We are the only people there, so Roger tells us we can have the pick of rooms. I had already reserved one of the lesser rooms, but he insisted we upgrade.
For dinner we head into town and eat at a new place (to me) called Alejandrina’s at the recommendation of Roger. We looked over the menu and started to chuckle at the translation of “Burros con pollo” into “donkeys with chicken,” “aguas frescas” into “fresh water,” and “Negra Modelo” into “Model black beer.” Roger recommended the chile rellenos so I went with that. Very good and lots of food.
So what you saying Jon is that it was an epic trip!!
Jealous!!
Jealous!!
alia176
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #100
Well of course it was epic, he was in an 80 the entire time
And it still was not enough to get me into one. They are a nice ride.
