Aussie 1984 refresh/mod down to chassis - 2F out 1UZ V8 in (Pics) (1 Viewer)

[Hellebore]

Been a while since I have updated due to a new baby girl and getting sick. Not a whole lot done on the rig - been using electrolysis and molasses to remove rust from the smaller parts like rock guards and brake drums have also paint stripped the axles ready for black paint
also got this

conversion kit from dellow yay!

and have also got my approval from the DoT

annnnd have ordered a whole heap of seals/weatherstripping etc from ccot

next on the list is get the chassis and tub blasted - decided not to dip the chassis in molasses despite it being very effective due to the awful stench when the stuff starts to ferment

so yeah - hopefully will start putting things together in the next couple of weeks

 

[Rusty]

Okay I'll stop pm'ing you stupid questions about your swap now that I see you have a thread running on your 1UZ install/Cruiser resto.

Aside from my '72's seized engine, my Cruiser is in a similar state as yours, though mine is less rusty. I had no idea that the Aus climate was that rough on sheet metal! I guess that's what stereotyping a "desert" country will do...

I look forward to the end result.

 

[Hellebore]

Okay I'll stop pm'ing you stupid questions about your swap now that I see you have a thread running on your 1UZ install/Cruiser resto.

Aside from my '72's seized engine, my Cruiser is in a similar state as yours, though mine is less rusty. I had no idea that the Aus climate was that rough on sheet metal! I guess that's what stereotyping a "desert" country will do...

I look forward to the end result.

it actually gets pretty wet here in perth - but i think this one has also suffered from a bit of beach driving without a proper rinse afterwards :\

 

[Rusty]

Okay, one more question, what sump orientation is your 1UZ? I guess they were made with a front, centre and rear sump position. It looks like a rear sump engine would work best with the FJ40 since the axle is so far forward. I think that rear sump 1UZ's are fairly hard to come by.

I emailed Phil Bradshaw, the guy that wrote the original "1UZ Swap" aritcle on Lextreme.com. He's told me that your stock ECU will happily run the 1UZ without the auto gearbox so long as the engine is non-VVTi.

 

[Hellebore]

quick question - I can get the chassis blasted with steel shot very cheaply - is this to agressive? will theaded holes suffer?

also - por15 or chassis black for the chassis
Thanks

 

[phase]

From what I have read, shot blasting can leave the surface quite smooth, almost polished which makes it harder for the paint to stick so it might need etching first for best results but it probably depends on the size of the shot. I'm only guessing here, I've never had anything shot blasted. Given that the blast media (stainless steel balls) is going to be a lot harder than the chassis, it might also have a peening effect that could alter the strenth of the chassis slightly. Not sure if this would be in a good or a bad way. Perhaps someone else might have a more informed oppinion.

Grit blasting on the other hand with garnet for example leaves a dull finish (feels a bit like sandpaper) which can be painted straight over with POR15 and it will stick like s*** to a blanket. Ideally you would put POR15 straight onto the bare metal, and then put the chassis black over that which is what I think the manufacturer recommends.

In my case, my chassis came back from the blaster with primer already on it so I just painted straight over it with the Chassis Coat. Seems to have a good bond and is pretty hard and chip resistant but only time will tell.

 

[glennjenn]

Hi Hellebore,

I've just read your thread and am doing exactly the same swap except using a H151F gearbox.

Does your gearbox have the rear park brake? I need to come up with a driveshaft brake or fathom out how to fix a park brake to the 151.

 

[Hellebore]

Hi Hellebore,

I've just read your thread and am doing exactly the same swap except using a H151F gearbox.

Does your gearbox have the rear park brake? I need to come up with a driveshaft brake or fathom out how to fix a park brake to the 151.

mine has the park brake on the rear drums as standard so i get out of that easy

 

[Hellebore]

oh yeah - and what white is the roof and bezel on an 80s fj40? cygnus white or 033 white?

Cam

 

[Baltoro Jeeper]

Okay, one more question, what sump orientation is your 1UZ? I guess they were made with a front, centre and rear sump position. It looks like a rear sump engine would work best with the FJ40 since the axle is so far forward. I think that rear sump 1UZ's are fairly hard to come by.

I emailed Phil Bradshaw, the guy that wrote the original "1UZ Swap" aritcle on Lextreme.com. He's told me that your stock ECU will happily run the 1UZ without the auto gearbox so long as the engine is non-VVTi.

Although the rear sump orientation is ideal, I have a front sump 1UZ in my FJ40 and the clearance from the diff is quite fair enough. And yup, the stock ECU doesn't really miss the auto box.

Excellent build BTW. I'll watch the progress on this. It would be interesting to know your thoughts how the 1UZ changes the vehicle dynamics as compared to the stock 2F. All the best!

 

[Hellebore]

blasting

still trying to sort out this blasting - talked to the shot blasting guy - he says they use a 0.6mm steel shot and the frame will come out in something similar to a 40 grit sand paper - will this be ok for por15 to stick to? will i still see the roughness through the paint? he also reckons that there should be no work hardening through peening.

does anyone have experience with this? should i just get it grit blasted?

Thanks guys

Cam

 

[merbesfield]

still trying to sort out this blasting - talked to the shot blasting guy - he says they use a 0.6mm steel shot and the frame will come out in something similar to a 40 grit sand paper - will this be ok for por15 to stick to? will i still see the roughness through the paint? he also reckons that there should be no work hardening through peening.

does anyone have experience with this? should i just get it grit blasted?

Thanks guys

Cam

The texture should be fine, but I do not recommend POR 15. Too brittle. I have found that Epoxy primer is much stronger. More work and more money but if you are going to the trouble to blast you should do it right. If not I would recommend Zero Rust. I have found that it sticks much better than POR15. The POR I have done is all chipping off. Have them do a sample blast of scrap iron then paint it. That is the best test.

 

[Hellebore]

The texture should be fine, but I do not recommend POR 15. Too brittle. I have found that Epoxy primer is much stronger. More work and more money but if you are going to the trouble to blast you should do it right. If not I would recommend Zero Rust. I have found that it sticks much better than POR15. The POR I have done is all chipping off. Have them do a sample blast of scrap iron then paint it. That is the best test.

So much conflicting info on POR15 :\ just dont know which way to go...

 

[merbesfield]

So much conflicting info on POR15 :\ just dont know which way to go...

I agree there is tons of conflicting info Lon the web and not just about POR. I too read many different thoughts so I bought and used both. I will not use POR again. Side by side comparison the POR is chipping and the Zero is not. Another thing I like about Z is that it is not glossy and can be painted over vs POR is very slick and I believe they even tell you not to top coat. Neither of these should be left unfinished if they are going to be exposed to the elements. Where I mostly use it is inner body panels for rust prevention. I will follow it with a product called Body Wax by Wurth which gets sprayed into the cavities after all work is done. Then if your anal like me, you follow that with fluid film for complete corrosion prevention.

PS where are you getting technical info for swapping the UZ V8? I have always wanted to have a Toyota V8 in one if my old LC and never have liked the idea of a Chevy V8 like everyone typically does.

 

[Hellebore]

I agree there is tons of conflicting info Lon the web and not just about POR. I too read many different thoughts so I bought and used both. I will not use POR again. Side by side comparison the POR is chipping and the Zero is not. Another thing I like about Z is that it is not glossy and can be painted over vs POR is very slick and I believe they even tell you not to top coat. Neither of these should be left unfinished if they are going to be exposed to the elements. Where I mostly use it is inner body panels for rust prevention. I will follow it with a product called Body Wax by Wurth which gets sprayed into the cavities after all work is done. Then if your anal like me, you follow that with fluid film for complete corrosion prevention.

PS where are you getting technical info for swapping the UZ V8? I have always wanted to have a Toyota V8 in one if my old LC and never have liked the idea of a Chevy V8 like everyone typically does.

Hmmmm can get the por15 for 1/2 the price of the rust bullet here in aus so i think that is going to dictate which way i go. Also got a sample of the grit blasted (shot blasted) steel today and it's literally like 40 grit sandpaper, however when i shot it with a bit of chassis paint and it covers very nicely, ie. totally smooth. So the por15 will have a good key.
so yep - got the chassis booked in for wednesday YAY!

for electronics I should be able to get info from lextreme, plus Im pretty handy with electronics - as far as everything else goes i have got a conversion kit from dellow automotive with all the important bits.


Cheers

Cameron

 

[SISLACK]

hey mate i have just painted hj47 frame after sand blasting used a product called rust seal then top coated with product called black top, very easy to use and now that it is dry i can hit the frame with a hammer and paint wont chip much better coating than others i have seen and is available here in perth

 

[65fj40_steve]

hey mate i have just painted hj47 frame after sand blasting used a product called rust seal then top coated with product called black top, very easy to use and now that it is dry i can hit the frame with a hammer and paint wont chip much better coating than others i have seen and is available here in perth

Where do you get it ?

 

[Hellebore]

Just got mine delivered (rust seal - seems the same as por15 from the description)

from the rust shop in Malaga

Cam

 

[Hellebore]

Got my chassis blasting all done - just gotta weld up a crack at the back.
Also do you guys just ignore rust sandwiched in between the spring hangers at the back or try and get it out - its like 3mm thick on one side...

also picked up one of the more important parts for the conversion today

 

[waiting for time]

Got my chassis blasting all done - just gotta weld up a crack at the back.
Also do you guys just ignore rust sandwiched in between the spring hangers at the back or try and get it out - its like 3mm thick on one side...

also picked up one of the more important parts for the conversion today

Nice.