Ardenyota's 1FZ Rebuild

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I might be the epitome of ignorance here, but why the extra 90* turn on the bolts after you have torqued them to spec? Is your torque wrench out of calibration or is it just to go the extra mile? Just wondering if you over turn it past spec if there's a higher chance of breaking something, etc...
 
MYSHERPA said:
I might be the epitome of ignorance here, but why the extra 90* turn on the bolts after you have torqued them to spec? Is your torque wrench out of calibration or is it just to go the extra mile? Just wondering if you over turn it past spec if there's a higher chance of breaking something, etc...

These turns with marks are directly from the factory service manual.
 
wow, thats pretty insane stuff.. very clean and beautiful.. I was hoping you weren't going to say 150k when I asked you how many miles :D

With 117k here hopefully it'll be a while for even just my HG but ya never know :eek:

Loved reading this thread
 
30+ days...still fast in my book! Great pics!:beer:
Thanks! Just chuggin' along. If my injectors come back today, I hope to have it running by Sunday.

I might be the epitome of ignorance here, but why the extra 90* turn on the bolts after you have torqued them to spec? Is your torque wrench out of calibration or is it just to go the extra mile? Just wondering if you over turn it past spec if there's a higher chance of breaking something, etc...

The head bolts, con-rod studs and bearing cap bolts are supposed to stretch, which is why the FSM specifies to check the diameter of each bolt before reuse. Accurate torque readings can be affected by many factors the higher and higher the torque value is- start-up drag, thread and head drag. This is why you're supposed to oil the threads and head flange. These factors will all vary by bolt, but less at lower torque.

So by torquing the head bolts to a low measurement (29 ft/lb), the drags mentioned above are reduced. Then it's simply a measurement of the thread pitch and turns to calculate how much stretch is desired for the bolts.

HTH

These turns with marks are directly from the factory service manual.

Oh, yeah. This too!

wow, thats pretty insane stuff.. very clean and beautiful.. I was hoping you weren't going to say 150k when I asked you how many miles :D

With 117k here hopefully it'll be a while for even just my HG but ya never know :eek:

Loved reading this thread

Good luck! Hopefully yours lasts a long while. Thanks!

:cheers:
 
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I spec'd out the main bearings and con-rod bearings. All were in spec and will be reused.

Just curious, as I am contemplating what level of tear-down to take my engine, after all that work, why would you re-use the bearings? Are they prohibitively expensive?
 
Just curious, as I am contemplating what level of tear-down to take my engine, after all that work, why would you re-use the bearings? Are they prohibitively expensive?

Here's the thing- I tend to follow the "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" mentality. It wouldn't be "prohibitively" expensive to replace the bearings- I think the whole set is around $200. The problem is where do you stop with replacing things that are still in solid working order? Also, $200 is not insignificant in my book; it's about 10% of my expense at this point.

The bearings were all well within spec, not pitting or scored, so I saw it as an unnecessary added expense. Onur seemed to feel the same way when he said my bearings would probably be fine (before I tore it apart).

I'm still trying to limit the amount that I'm spending on this, so there were a lot of things I chose not to replace unless necessary.

:cheers:

Got a lot done today. I'll get more pics up soon.

:steer:
 
Sensors, Alt bracket and coolant pipes installed. Lower intake gasket in place.
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Intake cam in place, lobes on cyl 1 an 4. Installed caps 2 and 5, then the rest of them.
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Turn the intake valve clockwise slightly and roll the exhaust cam into place. Cylinders 3 and 5; caps 4 and 6 this time first.
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Installed Cam and Distributor gears. Lower intake is also installed.
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Valve cover on.
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Installed Distributor, plugs, wires and new oil cap.
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Injectors came!
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Fuel filter and alternator bolted up.
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That's it for today. I'm hoping to install it tomorrow. Depending on how things go, I'll hopefully have it running Sunday.

:cheers:
 
I've got 2 things that you definitely need for that beautiful hunk of metal. Call me tomorrow after 12pm and ill get them out to you...free of charge :)
 
:popcorn:

So how come no new short block?
 
I've got 2 things that you definitely need for that beautiful hunk of metal. Call me tomorrow after 12pm and ill get them out to you...free of charge :)

Sweet! Hopefully I'll be able to tell you about how it went in by then... :lol:

Gotta make the motor "BENO-ized" :flipoff2:

I can guess what one of the items is, but not sure on the other. Excited to find out!

:popcorn:

So how come no new short block?

:flipoff2::eek:

:cheers:
 
Sweet! Hopefully I'll be able to tell you about how it went in by then... :lol:



I can guess what one of the items is, but not sure on the other. Excited to find out!



:flipoff2::eek:

:cheers:

My guess is something round and threaded, and something sticky. Great build, makes me want to do mine :D
 
Ran into Nate at Advance Auto this morning - he was buying fluids, so must be getting close!
 
Ran into Nate at Advance Auto this morning - he was buying fluids, so must be getting close!

Yeah, not so much...

"How to waste 2 days, by Ardentyota."

Step 1. Bolt flywheel on backwards.
Step 2. Proceed to install engine.
Step 3. :bang::bang::bang::bang::bang::bang::censor::censor::censor::censor::censor:
Step 4. Pull it out and start over tomorrow.

I don't want to talk about it. My goal is still Monday, but the wife decided to invite some people to our house tomorrow. Some = 18. I didn't even know we had 18 friends.

Happy Easter everyone. I need some #6s.
 
Bolt flywheel on backwards

Did the EXACT same thing after replacing the rear main. Had the transmission on the jack positioning it in place when I saw the timing marks facing me. Close call. Sorry you need to pull the whole shebang.
 
ardentyota said:
Step 1. Bolt flywheel on backwards.
Step 2. Proceed to install engine.

Thanks for posting the lesson learned, now there's a 50% chance I won't make the same mistake:)
 
Did the EXACT same thing after replacing the rear main. Had the transmission on the jack positioning it in place when I saw the timing marks facing me. Close call. Sorry you need to pull the whole shebang.

:meh: life goes on. Just one day behind now... :doh:

Thanks for posting the lesson learned, now there's a 50% chance I won't make the same mistake:)

Man, I wish that made me feel better... :lol:
 
Well, my goal of today it just about out the window. We had people over until ~ 7 last night so I didn't get to work on it at all. If only things went as planned, it would be running today!

Oh well. Wish me luck.
 

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