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- #41
Which signal wires? The only wires I have worked on have been tapping into the trailer hitch and extending the rear sensor wires (which, turns out, I didn't mess up).
ARB rear bumper install questions
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Those ARB tech folks told me to tap into the trailer wires.. however that causes issues and was just bad directions from them.
The power for the signal and brake run on the same wires on the trailer wires. What happens is the yellow lights turn on when you brake if you tap into the trailer wires for the signal and brake.
The trailer wires can be used for ground, and running lights.
The signal and brake wires (yellow green and brake wire red) need to tap into the rear tail light harness behind the left rear interior quarter panel. The tail light harness is behind the orange box. There is a plug with pink and blue wires on the end they are the signal wires, and the 2nd pink wire next to the blue wire is the brake wire. These tap in by running along under that tail gate bridge with the wire that has that white plug.
How did you cut your holes for the sensors? Did you cut that weird shape with the notches, or just round holes? I was debating drill or dremel or both?
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- #43
Hmm, I'll have to double check, but I'm pretty sure all my tail lights/indicators are working correctly. Then again, I tapped into the trailer wires on the underside of the vehicle, before the plug on the outside, and I'm not sure if that would make a difference. I've been working on a way to clean up that mess, maybe I'll move it all inside. Food for thought.
As for the sensor holes, this step drill bit worked perfectly. I stopped at a 1/2-inch because that's what I had measured the sensor retainer width as, but I forgot about the clip. When I stepped up to 7/8-inch (full size of the bit going all the way through the bumper) the sensor retainer fit in nice and snuggly.
As for the sensor holes, this step drill bit worked perfectly. I stopped at a 1/2-inch because that's what I had measured the sensor retainer width as, but I forgot about the clip. When I stepped up to 7/8-inch (full size of the bit going all the way through the bumper) the sensor retainer fit in nice and snuggly.
Caution: make sure on the size of the sensor hole before drilling. The holes got smaller in '13+. My RLC bumper was a used purchase, and it was on an earlier 200, so the holes were too big for my '15 sensors by about 1/16", but enough that the original keepers on my sensors wouldn't stay put. Fortunately I figured out that there was a combo that would work, but I also used a bit of black RTV to make them stay. I hope I never have to take them back out, they are very flimsy.
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- #47
When I did the install I checked the lights and I want to say everything was copasetic. Checked again just now and all lights work great. When I hit the break both the red and amber lights come on though. I need to clean up the wiring around the trailer hookup anyway, so I might move it all inside and protect the outside more than it is now.
In other news, I put an OBD2 reader on the LC to see if there were any codes which might help me figure out why the slip warning light was on and the radar cruise didn't work. An unrelated one came up and I cleared it. Took the truck to 4WheelParts to pick up some parts and noticed the slip warning was off. Tried out the radar cruise and it worked as well. No new codes or warning lights came on afterward either. Pretty excited about that working again.
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- #49
Took a crack at redoing the wiring for the ARB lights. Removed the splices from the trailer harness under the vehicle (where the trailer plugs into) and actually setting up the ARB wire harness how it was intended. Then, on the left side of the vehicle, clipped off the ARB harness connector and spliced into the wire harness just before the towing converter. I read through the instructions in the thread you posted, @Fisher23 (here), and noticed a few things:
I haven't made final connections for these wires yet and I didn't splice into any other wires on the towing converter because I didn't want to break anything and I don't have a wiring diagram for my model year ('13).
- when the signal light is spliced into that location it ticks a lot faster than stock (similar to when you hook up LEDs and it needs a relay to slow the light down)
- the right signal doesn't work when attached to the wire indicated in the linked thread
- brake lights and tail lights are the same brightness on the ARB lights (which is super bright, looks like the brakes are on constantly)
I haven't made final connections for these wires yet and I didn't splice into any other wires on the towing converter because I didn't want to break anything and I don't have a wiring diagram for my model year ('13).
That module that you taped inside the panel by the jack is suppose to control this flickering.
To spice into these wires "the wires attached to that white plug on the bumper harness" need to be used so they then connect through that module by the jack.
There are 2 wire strands, the one with the white plug you clipped to be used for the signal and brake (yellow green red), and the one with no end to be used for running lights and ground (brown white).
I haven't done this yet but that is what the ARB tech told me.
The ARB also said the black was for the brake light, but it doesn't seem to go to anything that I found, so I'm not sure what should be done with the black wire.
I'm not 100% sure yet but I think the wire going across under the tailgate bridge controls the right signal, and should end up attached somewhere near that connector in that left panel.
I went to the ARBusa.com website and called and asked for Tech Dept.
and another thought ... Does your 2013 have LED signal lights? If not then normally when combining LED lights with normal light you need to solder in a small resistor. I did that when I added LED interior lights to my Jeep. I soldered in a resistor then they turned on and off like they should. I remember getting the resistors like a dozen for a dollar.
To spice into these wires "the wires attached to that white plug on the bumper harness" need to be used so they then connect through that module by the jack.
There are 2 wire strands, the one with the white plug you clipped to be used for the signal and brake (yellow green red), and the one with no end to be used for running lights and ground (brown white).
I haven't done this yet but that is what the ARB tech told me.
The ARB also said the black was for the brake light, but it doesn't seem to go to anything that I found, so I'm not sure what should be done with the black wire.
I'm not 100% sure yet but I think the wire going across under the tailgate bridge controls the right signal, and should end up attached somewhere near that connector in that left panel.
I went to the ARBusa.com website and called and asked for Tech Dept.
and another thought ... Does your 2013 have LED signal lights? If not then normally when combining LED lights with normal light you need to solder in a small resistor. I did that when I added LED interior lights to my Jeep. I soldered in a resistor then they turned on and off like they should. I remember getting the resistors like a dozen for a dollar.
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- #51
I had a hunch that was the purpose of that particular module.
Interesting. Based on what the tech told you, it seems like the harness needs to be spliced into a couple of different places then.
- on the left side into the towing converter, and
- under the truck into the trailer harness (where I had spliced before) with these wires:
It also seems like tapping into the green wire on the left tail light may not be necessary (as per the other thread) if the exposed wires (above) are there to control the running lights. Only having to tap into the left and right signal plus the stop light on the towing converter side would certainly make wiring up that side easier (it's a small space when the 3rd row is still installed).
The wire going under the tailgate bridge is the end with the harness connector which doesn't have a mating plug on US LCs. It's essentially the only wire that stays inside the vehicle and connects to the module being taped near the jack. Once the wires come out of the module by the jack, they go through a grommet hole and outside the vehicle. It confused me why there was a branch of exposed wires on the outside like that. Guess I was hoping that splicing into the trailer harness might not be necessary (for whatever dumb reason).
The only LEDs I've installed in my LC are interior map/dome lights. While I'm not 100% sure, that shouldn't affect the signal light speed. When I was only spliced into the trailer harness the signal speed was normal as well.
I'm getting some quick disconnects today and going to have another go at it tonight/this weekend. Your reply has given me a few ideas, thank you.
FYI... you can cure the turn signals wigging out by upgrading to the SmartTap flasher. Such a nice upgrade (love mine) and it supports (seems to prefer) LED bulbs. I've since swapped all my bulbs out to LEDs. No resisters required.
There is an OEM wire harness running under the tailgate bridge on my LC. I was wondering if this OEM wire harness is going to the right signal? The ARB harness with that white plug you cut off is laying beside this OEM one.
The 3rd rear seat comes out in 5 minutes.. there is a you tube video on how to remove it, so you can see where those plastic clips are.
I didn't have time to get to wires today .. so what I did was swap out the spare tire studs.
The ARB tire carrier came with M12 studs and the LC uses M14 studs, so the spare is kind of floating on these M12 studs.
Went down to the auto parts store an got three M14 x 1.5 inch x 15.88mm studs; then drilled out the holes on the tire carrier to 5/8" which is near the 15.88 mm size.
Then reinstalled the spare using OEM lug nuts with an OEM wheel lock.
Now the spare is on there solid.
The 3rd rear seat comes out in 5 minutes.. there is a you tube video on how to remove it, so you can see where those plastic clips are.
I didn't have time to get to wires today .. so what I did was swap out the spare tire studs.
The ARB tire carrier came with M12 studs and the LC uses M14 studs, so the spare is kind of floating on these M12 studs.
Went down to the auto parts store an got three M14 x 1.5 inch x 15.88mm studs; then drilled out the holes on the tire carrier to 5/8" which is near the 15.88 mm size.
Then reinstalled the spare using OEM lug nuts with an OEM wheel lock.
Now the spare is on there solid.
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- #54
Spent the day working on the wiring for this bumper; I was determined to figure it out and get it done. It took a bunch of different tries and as soon as I thought I had it figured out, something wacky would happen (e.g., amber light would randomly come on with the brakes, but only one of them). What I realized, is that the wires I'd soldered back onto the ARB wire loom weren't covered with heat shrink yet. The heat shrink was on the wire, but not covering the soldered part; I was getting all kinds of mixed signals because they were all in a bundle and touching each other 
So, I moved the heat shrink in place and everything started working correctly. I'd tapped into the trailer harness when I realized my issue because I thought I'd at least get it back to what was working before. Then, one-by-one I switched to using the wires on the left side of the truck by the towing converter. It all came up roses then.
Here's what I tapped into:
For the tail lights, I tapped into the green wire on the left tail light as noted in this thread. Once I had all that hooked up all the lights worked perfectly; signal lights were flashing at the correct speed, tail lights were lit but not super bright, and hitting the brakes brightened up the tail lights (no amber lights turned on with the brakes anymore).
Went back to the trailer harness and removed all the connections from the ARB harness to the factory wiring, patched up what needed it, and tested the trailer harness to make sure everything was good (it is).
Oh, and the reason the one signal was going faster than the other? I didn't hook the harness back up to the left tail light. As soon as I did that the signal worked at normal speed. Total blonde moment.
So glad to have this done. Thanks everyone for the helpful comments and suggestions (even when it was my own stupidity causing an issue
So, I moved the heat shrink in place and everything started working correctly. I'd tapped into the trailer harness when I realized my issue because I thought I'd at least get it back to what was working before. Then, one-by-one I switched to using the wires on the left side of the truck by the towing converter. It all came up roses then.
Here's what I tapped into:
For the tail lights, I tapped into the green wire on the left tail light as noted in this thread. Once I had all that hooked up all the lights worked perfectly; signal lights were flashing at the correct speed, tail lights were lit but not super bright, and hitting the brakes brightened up the tail lights (no amber lights turned on with the brakes anymore).
Went back to the trailer harness and removed all the connections from the ARB harness to the factory wiring, patched up what needed it, and tested the trailer harness to make sure everything was good (it is).
Oh, and the reason the one signal was going faster than the other? I didn't hook the harness back up to the left tail light. As soon as I did that the signal worked at normal speed. Total blonde moment.
So glad to have this done. Thanks everyone for the helpful comments and suggestions (even when it was my own stupidity causing an issue
Cool, you finish ahead of mine.
The 2016+ uses a different sensor, and first I attempted to cut out that weird shape hole for them, but in the end a 1" hole worked fine.
Used a cutoff wheel and saw-all to fit the backup/camp lights.
The 2016+ uses a different sensor, and first I attempted to cut out that weird shape hole for them, but in the end a 1" hole worked fine.
Used a cutoff wheel and saw-all to fit the backup/camp lights.
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- #57
The writing on the orange box says "towing converter." From what I understand, it's purpose is to convert the signal for all the rear lights into the correct signals for a trailer (since trailers tend to have fewer lights on the back which need to perform light, brake, and turn functions).
I am still having issues with the sensor that is beside the backup light on the bumper. It is detecting something and indicating a collision warning.
The outer corner sensors seen to work fine when tested.
I'm thinking of relocating the inner sensors else where, maybe one under the fuel can carrier and the other in the center of the tire carrier. Has anyone else had this issue, and if so where did you relocate the inner sensors?
I was also able to re-use my OEM mud flaps. .. But still need to reinstall the under splash guards some how. Has anyone done this?
This is a 2016 if that makes any difference.
The outer corner sensors seen to work fine when tested.
I'm thinking of relocating the inner sensors else where, maybe one under the fuel can carrier and the other in the center of the tire carrier. Has anyone else had this issue, and if so where did you relocate the inner sensors?
I was also able to re-use my OEM mud flaps. .. But still need to reinstall the under splash guards some how. Has anyone done this?
This is a 2016 if that makes any difference.
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- #60
I get some false warnings on one outside sensor on the tire carrier side, but it's intermittent and I chalk it up to being sensitive around the spare tire.
I'm not sure if moving the sensors that high up would be better or not. Would they still ping if it was a small/low-to-the-ground object behind you?
I'm not sure if moving the sensors that high up would be better or not. Would they still ping if it was a small/low-to-the-ground object behind you?
