ARB rear bumper install questions (1 Viewer)

[screenflicker]

This weekend I'm going through the process of installing an ARB rear bumper. I've read through a couple of the install threads here so far and they've been helpful in a few aspects.

A couple things I've noticed right off the bat:

• there are major fitment issues getting the new bumper to fit all the way on the bumper bar. I've been grinding a few high spots down but it's still extremely tight to get on (I actually haven't gotten it to go all the way on yet).
• wiring. I haven't been able to sort out if the wiring looms have been updated in the past couple years or not because the instructions from ARB are dismal at best. Unfortunately, the best suggestion on this forum is to create your own wire loom.

Which brings me to my questions. Does anyone have any good, somewhat detailed, wiring instructions for either the factory loom or DIY? I won't be towing anything but I also don't have time to get any adapters shipped to me (need it done for a road trip on Tuesday).

Second question. How much grinding did you have to do so your bumper would fit? Follow up, did you grind off the bumper bar or the ARB bumper? I'm about ready to just start hammering on it and force it into place.

 

[KLF]

What wiring are you asking about? The only wiring in the stock rear bumper is for the parking sensors. Is that what you mean? Or the aux reverse lights and taillights?

Or are you relocating the camera and license plate lights to a swingout?

Do you have any pictures of where you are having to grind to fit? That doesn't seem right.

 

[screenflicker]

Sorry, my fault. Should have posted pictures in the first place.

What wiring are you asking about? The only wiring in the stock rear bumper is for the parking sensors. Is that what you mean? Or the aux reverse lights and taillights?

The wiring for the aux lights and license plate only for now. I'm rushed so I'm going to hold off on the sensors for now.

Or are you relocating the camera and license plate lights to a swingout?

Not relocating the camera yet but I will in the future. The license plate will be on a swing out (jerry can, right-hand side). If I can figure out how the supplied loom plugs into the vehicle I should be able to figure out the license plate light.

Do you have any pictures of where you are having to grind to fit? That doesn't seem right.

I agree it doesn't seem right

Here is where it's catching on the left side (top and bottom)

It was also catching on the corner of the bumper bar and still is a little after grinding it down a little

It catches on the same points on the right side (though I can probably slam it home if I had to)

 

[screenflicker]

Here are a couple of shots of where it's getting stuck with the bumper on the ground

It seems like it's only the corners of those to mounting points. So I'm not sure what to do. Grind a little of the corners back? Force it on and hope I don't ever have to remove it? I don't really want to take much off the bumper bar itself.

 

[screenflicker]

And finally, I'm not quite clear where the M12 plates go. Is this right? This is on the right-hand side, my camera is on the outside facing towards the inside of the vehicle.

 

[KLF]

I've never actually seen an ARB rear bumper for these trucks (other than the photos on the Slee site), so I'll just share what I did for my RLC rear bumper.

Wiring: no idea how they intended to tap into the taillight and reverse wiring. I ended up pulling off my trailer plug harness and very carefully tapping into those wires. It takes some time, you need some good double-wall heat shrink tubing to make sure everything is sealed up. There are 7 wires in this harness, here are the colors:

White = ground
Black = switched +12v (40 A fuse)
Blue = brake (30 A fuse)
Yellow = reverse (7.5 A fuse)
Green = taillights (30 A fuse)
Brown = turn right (30 A fuse)
Red = turn left (30 A fuse)

You should use at least #12 wires on all these circuits (except the reverse lights) due to the fuses in the factory wiring.

Fitment: I would be nervous about grinding on the vehicle frame much, given that cross member is also the trailer hitch. But that just seems wrong to have so much interference. Did you buy it from Slee? Maybe give them a call on Monday?

That does look like the correct spot for the M12 nuts. My bumper actually uses long bolts all the way through the cross member. The drivers side one was pretty challenging to get installed due to the tailpipe in the way.

 

[screenflicker]

Alright, thanks for the info on the wiring @KLF. I've got some heat shrink and I'm sure I can find some #12 wire somewhere. No aux reverse lights on this bumper though so I won't have to worry about that.

I'm not keen on doing any more grinding on the frame either. Had a thought while driving around tonight (not this vehicle) and I wonder if I could bend out just the ends of those pieces on the bumper that are hitting; just to get over the hump.

Unfortunately, I didn't order from Slee. I got it from 4WheelParts and I don't know if they'd have any good advice over the phone.

 

[jblatl]

I had to grind down the weld on the top of each frame section just a little. Bailrly touched it. I did not use the M12 plates.

Where are you located? Ps. I love the bumper!

 

[screenflicker]

I had to grind down the weld on the top of each frame section just a little. Bailrly touched it. I did not use the M12 plates.

Yeah, it shouldn't be this tight. Unless someone else has any advice I'm going to try bending those mount points a little and force it on. If you didn't use the M12 plates, did you still insert the M12 bolts? What did you end up doing for those mounting points?

Where are you located? Ps. I love the bumper!

I'm in the Las Vegas area

 

[jblatl]

I had some stainless steel hardware that I used instead that I liked a little better I was going to mention if you were somewhere but I have I happen to be in Atlanta I have some Porta power equipment and I was going to suggest that we try to spread those tabs on the bumper apart a little bit giving a little more room but you being in Vegas doesn’t do a whole lot so I can’t really offer that unfortunately

 

[jblatl]

Sorry about the voice dictation doesn’t always come out right on this iPhone

 

[screenflicker]

I had some stainless steel hardware that I used instead that I liked a little better I was going to mention if you were somewhere but I have I happen to be in Atlanta I have some Porta power equipment and I was going to suggest that we try to spread those tabs on the bumper apart a little bit giving a little more room but you being in Vegas doesn’t do a whole lot so I can’t really offer that unfortunately

Porta power! I spent a couple hours driving around looking for tools that might spread the tabs apart and found nothing. Going to swing by Harbor Freight (I always forget to check that place) and pick one up first thing tomorrow.

 

[cruiseroutfit]

We've sold/installed many of them including on my own, I've never had to clearance too much. The wiring is quite easy to integrate I'm, I'd check with your retailer and see if they have a diagram to share with you.

 

[screenflicker]

Used a Porta power to open up the mounting brackets a little and managed to get the main part of the bumper mounted. Still took a lot of force, but it's on there.

Now for a new question. For me, the directions aren't super clear on how to install the locking pin, roll pin, and spring for the swing out arms. It seems like the picture of the "bottom view" shows one thing but the description suggests something slightly different. Where should the roll pin go through the locking pin in relation to the spring?

To the left of "2" is the outside of the vehicle and spring. To the right of "1" is towards the inside of the vehicle (and the latch for the swing out) and to the right of the spring. "3" is "somewhere in the middle making sure there is spring on both sides of the roll pin (an idea of how much spring to leave on each side would be appreciated

 

[screenflicker]

Figured it out. Definitely did it wrong the first time. Going to have to figure out a way to fix that later.

So I set up the license plate situation on the jerry can holder but the bolts holes don't fit North American license plates. Is there an adapter somewhere or should one have come with the kit? I'd think the latter but I'm running on very little sleep right now.

If I can't find anything I'm going to zip tie the damn thing in place and call it done. Doesn't have to look pretty, just has to be there

 

[Fisher23]

What wiring are you asking about? The only wiring in the stock rear bumper is for the parking sensors. Is that what you mean? Or the aux reverse lights and taillights?

Or are you relocating the camera and license plate lights to a swingout?

Do you have any pictures of where you are having to grind to fit? That doesn't seem right.

I am also going to go with the ARB .. and have a question on the wiring for the Camera and the parking sensors.

Can I just cut and extend the wires for the parking sensors, and what size wire should it be?
Same question for the rear camera. I was thinking of mounting the camera to the side of the can holder.

What is a reasonable amount of time it should take for the install.. My first time installing this bumper, but not a installing a bumper.
I have no experience cutting the skin so any tips would be appreciated!

They installed the sensors like this...

 

[Fisher23]

and this ...

 

[KLF]

Sensors: there is a separate harness that runs inside the bumper, it connects to the truck at a connector on the driver's side. The wires are VERY thin, and a PITA to work with. One side requires extending 6 wires, the other only 3. I bought this "kit" of 6 colored 22-ga wires for the project:

Amazon product ASIN B07BWC596B
And this kit of heat shrink tubing:

Amazon product ASIN B073R69KNB
I didn't use crimp connectors, I actually very carefully twisted and soldered the wires together. I put heat shrink on each wire, then a large piece over the entire splice. I then put some 3/8" corrugated loom over the whole thing, wrapped in 3M black tape (that is how the original harness is built). It was very tedious, but I took my time and thankfully it worked fine.

The tupperware bumper cover is easier to cut than you'd think, I think the best tool is a oscillating multi-tool. Get some edging for the cut edge. Be careful pulling it off the clips where it meets the sheet metal, I had to replace both sides on mine.

 

[screenflicker]

@KLF wrote out the procedure I'm going to follow when I finally get around to installing the rear sensors. I've been putting it off because it's kind of a one-time thing when you're drilling holes into the metal bumper and I don't want to mess it up. Be careful pulling the sensor retainer clips out of the old bumper. When I pulled mine out I ended up breaking off a different piece in 3 out of 4 retainers (cost about $30 to get 4 replacements from Toyota).

As for the rear camera, I ended up getting the ARB relocation kit (part # 5715010) from Summit Racing. It was ~$65 with shipping and it comes with wire, zip ties, and a metal shroud for the new placement. The instructions are to remove the rear camera from its existing position, extend the wires and install the metal shroud/camera right under the buttons for the latch. Install seems relatively easy and shouldn't take too long, depending if you solder or use butt connectors for the wiring.

Cutting the stock bumper is easy. I would have used a grinder with a cutting wheel, but I broke the cutting wheel removing the spare tire guard. Ended up using a pull saw and it worked well. My biggest advice for this part is to measure out as they say in the instructions, but leave a little extra bumper on (don't cut to the line). It's easier to sneak up on the perfect line than cutting too much off and having to deal with the wide gap. I cut right on their suggested line (measured 3 times and double checked everything) and the gap looks a little bigger than I want.

Total time to install took me 4 days. This was my first time installing a bumper though, and there were a few trips to the store to pick up tools I didn't have but needed for the install. I also had a fair amount of trouble getting the bumper seated on the frame rail (as you may have read).

 

[Ali FJ80]

The wire for the sensors are super thin, maybe 24 gauge or so. I used these solder seal wire connectors and they worked like a charm.

Amazon product ASIN B01ILSEF76

Also I used a osculating multi tool for the bumper skins and it is so easy to use and precise, grinder or saw are really overkill.

Was able to hang the bumper on the car in an afternoon and was probably the easier part. The time it took to extend the backup sensor wire harness and rewiring the lights were a bigger pain than the physical bumper install.