Anyone running a mild aftermarket camshaft with a stock motor or TRD Supercharger (1 Viewer)

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That looks like a horrible place to mount an intercooler
 
I also own an Evo and after hearing and seeing all the failures with Kelfords MIVEC camshafts for EVO IX's, I am a little reluctant to use their products. However when I do the HG and freshen my top end, I'm going to look at these cams. No reviews but a relatively good rating and a 1000-5500 RPM range sounds pretty good to me.

Toyota 1FZ Camshafts
Interesting, I didn't know of any failures. But I sold my Evo about 4 years ago. Mine was an Evo 8 with no mivec and the Kelford 272's were great. Nice lope at idle. :) I think I picked up about 20whp from those cams? I was also running E85 + 25lbs of boost.
 
So if the turbo was a decent brand, what's the issue with CX racing?
 
Not trying to High jack the thread, but has anyone offset ground the rod journals on a factory 4.5L crank to gain some stroke ? Or would it weaken the crank too much ? Or maybe rods with a smaller big end aren't available ? Just looking at those stroker kits and trying to jew one out.
 
I think the cams would be an easy swap on with the head on. You will have them in and out a couple of times doing the shim thing but it's easy. The larger lift will help a bit with the tight shrouding to the cylinder wall. Not as much as canted valves but still helps.

The 4.6 helps with displacement but also unshrouding valves with a larger bore. Think 396 vs 454 (besides displacement)

I think the stock ecu is a throttle on the system too.

Too bad one can't mill the head for compression. Or at least I believe it's a no no
 
Yeah it's not super high quality. Checkout @Heckraiser s thread he for the most part used the plan I laid out. He had some issues welding up the blow off valve piping, but it is all high quality parts and not that much more.
 
Well what everyone is calling 4.6L. Is actually something a little less than 4.566 and stock is 4.477. We are talking probably 85cc's of difference. And boring the cylinders from 100 to 101mm really isn't doing much for the shrouded valves as no one is going into the head and machining it to match the new bore.

If you watch @hazard s thread he has a good handle on what it will take to increase NA performance. It is going to be cams and higher compression pistons and some port work. There is no magic button.


I think the cams would be an easy swap on with the head on. You will have them in and out a couple of times doing the shim thing but it's easy. The larger lift will help a bit with the tight shrouding to the cylinder wall. Not as much as canted valves but still helps.

The 4.6 helps with displacement but also unshrouding valves with a larger bore. Think 396 vs 454 (besides displacement)

I think the stock ecu is a throttle on the system too.

Too bad one can't mill the head for compression. Or at least I believe it's a no no
 
Well what everyone is calling 4.6L. Is actually something a little less than 4.566 and stock is 4.477. We are talking probably 85cc's of difference. And boring the cylinders from 100 to 101mm really isn't doing much for the shrouded valves as no one is going into the head and machining it to match the new bore.

If you watch @hazard s thread he has a good handle on what it will take to increase NA performance. It is going to be cams and higher compression pistons and some port work. There is no magic button.
That's not really all that bad though. Big cam, port work, more compression, and better exhaust. Pretty much standard on every engine. I believe a better header may be a decent idea, though Mr T has done a pretty nice job on the factory cast iron manifolds. That said, my daughters NA cruiser with a header has more pull than my old stock NA cruiser had. A friend of mine that builds and restores muscle cars, as well as build cars and engines for the F.A.S.T. drag racing series (factory appearing stock tire) just dynoed their latest 426 hemi for their 71 Challenger with factory carb, dizzy, intake, and cast iron factory exhaust manifolds at 960hp. The manifolds are sitting in my shop right now (I high temp powder coated them) and they have a nice port job but still stock castings. Makes me think a little port work on the factory Cruiser manifolds would be a good idea as well.
 
So if the turbo was a decent brand, what's the issue with CX racing?
I know CX stuff is US designed, China fabricated and all. I have a CX header on my SC Cruiser and it is doing very well. No issues like cracks or anything. It is very thick. I had to do some port clean up on it where the flange transitions to the pipe but fortunately their is so much meat there it can be done. Turnkey, the header is kinda lame. With a bit of work it came out nice. No clue on performance increase. She runs really well but no hard data.
 
Who else makes headers? Thorley?
 
Their turbo kit is tempting on two accounts.
Price vs supercharger
Availability vs supercharger.

Now being in CA, I am not sure about the legality of running such thing, due to emissions requirements here.

I would get a V8 swap like no tomorrow, but I got a newish Robbie built 4.6 engine and that would be a shame to throw it away.
Naturally I am searching for some more oomph out of the engine. S/C, Turbo, Cams, 5-6 speed transmission, anything that would make sense and not break the wallet.

How much do you guys think my engine would be worth if it were for sale?
Trying to gauge what the budget would be for a V8 swap "using my engine as a downpayment".

A V8 swap really excites me a lot, looking at the power/torque/weight savings/6-speed tranny ratio. It probably makes the most sense in terms of drivability too, instead of adding more weight up front for not so much power increase and making a lot more heat in the process too.




As far as the CXRacing intercooler placement is concerned, I think it's just fine there using their rock guard plate. People use them in front mount applications all the time and also serve as front bumpers. They tend to be pretty tough. If it breaks, you just go into limp mode. Not a big deal. Happened to me before on a different car (did not break, but one of the hoses came lose and lost all boost... a few times).
 
I got the Robbie special, but I don't know what the real difference is. I have no terms of comparison or dyno results. All I know is that I want more power.
Im happily in the process of a Robbie build
I happen to have an NIB SC kit. Whats your opinion of whether I should install it
If so, now or after break-in of 4.6 build?
 
The best person to ask would be Robbie himself.
You can also ask @NLXTACY , since he had his engine rebuilt and installed a s/c (if not at the same time, then soon after).
 
Edit: Sometimes you don't pay attention and miss something...

And sometimes you potato hard.
 
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Anything is possible it just comes down to money. You could custom grind your own crank bringing the big end down to a different size, but you would need custom rods, which standard aftermarket rods cost about $1500-2000 a custom set I was quoted $450/rod.

But if I was given an absolute clean slate I would custom grind the crank down to 2.100" which is the same size as the LS from 2.383" This would give you a 7mm increase in stroke without having to clearance the block. Since you are getting custom rods anyways I would get a smaller pin in the piston side, since 1.024" is overkill and heavier than it needs to be. Throw a 10:1 piston on top, all the cleaning up of the ports a mild cam, and way you go.


Not trying to High jack the thread, but has anyone offset ground the rod journals on a factory 4.5L crank to gain some stroke ? Or would it weaken the crank too much ? Or maybe rods with a smaller big end aren't available ? Just looking at those stroker kits and trying to jew one out.
 
From Schneider Racing Cams:

The 248-F works well with the factory computer, while offering a big upgrade over the stock cams. That's the grind we use for stock class endurance racing. The base circle is the same as stock.

We can regrind your stock cores to that spec, but you'd need lash caps to make up the difference.

I didn't get this until after they closed today and have a few more questions. Anyone familiar with lash caps?
 
Interesting, I didn't know of any failures. But I sold my Evo about 4 years ago. Mine was an Evo 8 with no mivec and the Kelford 272's were great. Nice lope at idle. :) I think I picked up about 20whp from those cams? I was also running E85 + 25lbs of boost.

Yeah I heard there was a problem where the oil hole was drilled into the cam to operate the MIVEC. The cams would crack there and break in half. I saw a lot of failures on Kelford's and so with me owning an Evo IX I decided not to use them. I went with Works Motorsports 274 power cams which use factory Mitsubishi cam cores and they work great with just a mild lope.

Back to the thread, I would love to do a turbo kit on the 1FZ, but I also live in Cali and getting someone to pass it for smog would be a pain. I like the idea of adding CC's but most likely wouldn't tackle that unless I'm going to be rebuilding the whole engine. So whenever my HG decides to say goodbye, I plan on upgrading the cams, mild port and polish on the head, port match on the intake runners and exhaust manifolds unless I can find a CARB header (doubtful). Hope this would give me a mild bump in power and torque and then I'd look into higher compression pistons and maybe additional cubes when it comes out for a full rebuild. V8 swap would be nice, but kind of want to keep it all Toyota.

Interesting info on the Schneider cams, definitely plan to look at those at HG time.
 
I have had good luck with Schneider cams in the past (mostly V8's all makes). If you talk with them they will help pick the right cam for application and will grind 1 if they don't have it available. I'm sure one could wake up these engines with the right 1 and little more compression.
 

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