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Discussion in '80-Series Tech' started by thetoyotaman, May 31, 2017.
Dyno? We need information.
I have no plans to dyno, but Schneider is reporting a 15hp gain from the guys overseas that have dyno’d their trucks. It’s their stock racing class cam grind. Stock Toyota cams are pretty conservative to begin with and I’ve had nice results with cam grinds on other engines.
From their page:
Lift isn’t radical.
Thanks for sharing theyotaman. What did Schneider have to say about their 256F grind?
I chose this grind for several reasons. One, I don’t plan on high rpm use and want to keep the power band down low. Secondly, I wanted a cam the stock computer could handle. Thirdly, wanted a reasonably smooch idle. Finally, working with the advice of my machine shop and running it by Schneider this seemed right for me.
Been over on their website. Turbo section is blank. Curious what they would do different for a turbo motor. Are you going to run the stock ecm?
Yep and they said it was a good choice to use with the supercharger too.
That’s not cheap hp. Robbie does a bunch of head work on his rebuilds. Wonder if that coupled with the cam would be even better. I like the low rpm range. I just don’t think this is a high rpm engine.
These are not cheap engines or vehicles to play with. The regrinds are a lot cheaper than buying cams from them. They pay more for the blanks than I did on the regrind.
The drivetrains are also labor intensive to pull and install. So, it’s good to plan everything you want to do while it’s out. A great machinist is priceless. But, they are Land Cruisers which we are all here because how much we love them.
A lot of people in general like to build high hp high rpm motors. The bigger cams Schneider does are going into 1200 hp sand racing trucks overseas. Those guys can afford to blow them up.
I’m trying to build a motor the way I would have liked to have seen it from Toyota. Updated parts, casting flaws removed, and a moderately conservative cam that wakes up the rpm band I’ll be using. I hope these threads help others. They help keep me on track!
Did you regrind or buy new? I’d like to drop the egr and go with coil packs.
Regrind. I wanted to keep the Toyota metal
Interesting. Did they have to build the lobes up first? Be nice to see a lobe overlap drawing.
No welding or building up the lobes. The majority of the cut is at the base circle. Once the head work and valve job is done, will have to look at valve adjustment which can require lash caps, different shims, or shimlese buckets.
I’m still learning this engine. I hadn’t thought of shims, buckets etc. you mentioned casting removal, have you looked at valve shrouding? I hear the 105 series had a better flowing head.
I haven’t dove into this completely with the machine shop yet, but there are some casting imperfections in the head that some cleanup could help. There is some valve shrouding too. More to come on this later in my rebuild thread.
Here's spec sheets on the OEM cams and a card on the grind. Comparing at .050, the stock cams come in at 192, the grind at 214.
How much did you save on the regrind vs new? You changing rods and pistons too?
Regrind is less than half depending on shipping, etc. Rods and pistons are balanced along with the crank and overbore .5mm. No compression change.
Do not idle below 2000 RPM for the first 15 minutes?