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- #201
one more
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- #202
got the right rear rust welded up.. now i need to move on to the wheel well rust where the jump seats mount and the rust in the rockers and I can move onto filler! prime.... then paint!
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- #203
spent all today aligning the front end.... this included slotting holes.. welding holes.. drilling holes.. banging, pulling what have you to get s*** to line up. ended up having to drill out the spot welds in my passenger fender.. take out the brace and re weld it to get the fender/apron to line up with the bib... in the end i couldn't get the hood to line up on the passenger side it was about a 1/4'' off.. measured the gap at the rear of the hood and that told the story.. i need to do some modification to my hood hinges to get my hood to line up properly.. in the end this is what it looks like all lined up!
now i can take these pieces off and get to work on some body work!
now i can take these pieces off and get to work on some body work!
very impressed man!!! keep it up!!
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- #206
did some more work on the body.. not sure if i specifically said it earlier but i want this to be accurate as much as possible to the 78 cowl were i got my switches/vents/wiring harness from so i cut holes for the defrosters and cut out the hole (square) for the brake/seatbelt lights
also started getting the hood straight
also started getting the hood straight
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- #207
also got my parts back from the plater... i messed up and said yellow zinc not cadmium! so the bolts and stuff don't match my other bolts I got plated... O WELL!
I had to put the doors back on to drill the holes back in my tub with the new back pillars and i had to drill the hole for the latch.. here is the finished product with the latch hole - i think it came out nice and matches somewhat to the factory setup
QUESTION:
For those with ehsan's parts... do you sand most of his primer off and then use your own (i'm thinking more specifically the bows than the doors).. I'm not sure I want to sand all of his primer off the bows..
I had to put the doors back on to drill the holes back in my tub with the new back pillars and i had to drill the hole for the latch.. here is the finished product with the latch hole - i think it came out nice and matches somewhat to the factory setup
QUESTION:
For those with ehsan's parts... do you sand most of his primer off and then use your own (i'm thinking more specifically the bows than the doors).. I'm not sure I want to sand all of his primer off the bows..
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- #208
haven't updated in a while but i've been certainly working.. first a bunch of photos of the products i've been using..
- the R-M epoxy primer is nice but it was gumming up on my sandpaper even after 24 hours.. guy at the paint store said it wasn't cured and that "epoxy primers should be 1-1 paint to hardener" this one is 4-1 so i might add a little more hardner for the last coat of primer
- used evercoat extreme... 1 gallon did almost everything
- using icing for a final coat to get all of the tiny imperfections out that we missed after the first blocking - this stuff lays down nice
- urethane basecoat for my raptor lining.. i hope that one quart will do 8 bottles of raptor.. it was $70
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- #209
been doing little things like restoring my heater too
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- #210
the body work.. my chassis is so freaking dirty now..
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- #211
don't have time/money to find a nice unmolested tranny tunnel so this is my solution. it should look nice
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- #212
first to coats of primer
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- #213
finally moved inside for blocking,icing, and final priming.. then with help im going to flip it over and bedline the underneath with tintable raptor lining
turn it back over and wetsand.. then... found a guy locally who will paint everything for 500 including materials for single stage acrylic urethane.. hope to bring him the body at the end of this week!
the body itself will look much better than the hood/doors/front fenders but for my first body work experience i'm very happy. my dad is awesome at filler/sanding from his days making fiberglass molds. couldn't have done it without him
turn it back over and wetsand.. then... found a guy locally who will paint everything for 500 including materials for single stage acrylic urethane.. hope to bring him the body at the end of this week!
the body itself will look much better than the hood/doors/front fenders but for my first body work experience i'm very happy. my dad is awesome at filler/sanding from his days making fiberglass molds. couldn't have done it without him
sweet!!!! cant wait for paint!!!! what color again?
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- #215
same as yours! 653 Olive Green! It was a toss up between that and dune beige but i think the olive will go better with the khaki canvas
nice you will be happy with that color.... looks so much better in person than in any of my pics I have posted....
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- #217
more updates! the truck is away for paint! got the bedliner on the underside.. here's pics..
- first last coat of primer
- second is after hour+ cleaning the inside and underside of hump... the new shifter plate i made to clean up the PO's handywork.
- third shows the black paint im using on all my accessories.. for now at least. its the fastest and easiest thing i could do. so all hinges, kickvents, wipermotor cover and gas door have this textured look (its rustoleom hammered and i think it lays down nice)
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- #218
- first pic is what fell out of my truck when we flipped it over....
- second is it flipped over!
- third is it prepped for bedliner.. seam sealer EVERYWHERE.. epoxy primer over all that and some extra primer in the tight spots. scuffed the surface, tape in all the threaded holes, and tape and paper lining all the sides
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- #219
- another prep photo
- tintable raptor lining!
the raptor lining sprayed nicely and was easy for someone like me.. prep IS key like everyone says. I didn't really have enough for two coats going up the whole firewall but everything is covered nicely. I couldn't get the bedliner in some places that will be noticeable on the firewall once the truck is rightside up.. I will hand brush bedliner in these spots when i bedline the inside
when working with the raptor lining i first measured the directed 250ml of activator. I then measured out 100ml of color (10%=100ml right?) the combined 350ml of added fluid would not fit in the bottle... so i was confused... i ended up putting activator in to the top of the first indentation in the bottle and then color up to almost the top leaving enough room to shake the bottle. This left me with A LOT of activator left over and less than half a quart of paint. I should have used more activator and less paint. I'm going to have to do this now that I'm doing the inside next... hopefully the color will be the same. by not using the recommended amount of activator i thought i was going to have issues but the tech guy at u-pol said i'd be okay but that when he does it he only has a couple of ounces of activator left over
If someone else has done this maybe they can chime in???
Dude, sorry to be the bearer of bad news, but I think you need to recheck your math...10% of 1,000 ml is 100 ml....10% of 250 ml is 25 ml. I have no experience with the product you're using, so I have no idea if it will effect the outcome or not...which, I guess is the real question here...
