Builds Another Prado in Montana (3 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Also, thanks to @87BJ74 I was able to fix a stripped thread on one of the mounting bolts for the serpentine belt tensioner. One less thing to worry about failing!

I did a little research into the EGT issue, apparently VW specced the ALH TDI for a max EGT of 900ºC/1652ºF! 🤯 Not sure how long they expect components to last at those temperatures, but it gives me a little more confidence that the temperatures I saw today, while not comfortable, probably didn't cause any damage.
 
I did a little research into the EGT issue, apparently VW specced the ALH TDI for a max EGT of 900ºC/1652ºF!
That seems really high, but I suppose VW knows what they’re doing. ALH TDIs are not known for failing due to... well, pretty much anything. Of course, they’re generally pushing small cars and not a heavy, body on frame sport utility. ;)

I’m curious to hear what the tuning company says about the EGTs you’re seeing.
 
I've been trying out a couple of alternate tunes in an attempt to get boost up and temps down, with only moderate success. At this point I'm leaning to something being slightly out of adjustment mechanically.

In other news, @SnowVersion came down for the weekend and we had a great time up in the mountains exploring some mines:
IMG_0537.jpg


5D017837.jpg


5D017806.jpg


5D017854.jpg
 
I picked it up on eBay, it is one of the cheap off-brand ones, but it is solid aluminum construction and the machine work is pretty good.

 
I picked it up on eBay, it is one of the cheap off-brand ones, but it is solid aluminum construction and the machine work is pretty good.


Interested to hear how well that works.
 
Interested to hear how well that works.

Same. I have yet to install it, but will report back when I do. My only concern is that in cold weather it might freeze up; during a cold snap this winter (-20ºF) the straight hose I had on there froze solid and the crankcase pressure forced oil out all over the place. I'm going to try and mount it somewhere it will get some heat from the engine.
 
Same. I have yet to install it, but will report back when I do. My only concern is that in cold weather it might freeze up; during a cold snap this winter (-20ºF) the straight hose I had on there froze solid and the crankcase pressure forced oil out all over the place. I'm going to try and mount it somewhere it will get some heat from the engine.
An old airplane trick, cut a slit maybe a inch long on the top side of the hose near where it is attached to the valve cover. Then if it freezes downstream the pressure will exit at the slit.
 
An old airplane trick, cut a slit maybe a inch long on the top side of the hose near where it is attached to the valve cover. Then if it freezes downstream the pressure will exit at the slit.
That's a fantastic idea, I'll have to implement that when I install the catch can.
 
Disaster was averted today! For a while I have been chasing a slow coolant leak without success. Today I came out of a grocery store to find a sizable puddle of coolant running out from under the Prado, so I had a close look at where it was coming from and discovered a disintegrating rubber cap on a vestigial coolant pipe buried on the side of the engine.
IMG_3310.jpg


There was a constant stream of drips coming out, so I made a beeline to the nearest auto parts store and bought a gallon of distilled water, a jug of coolant and a new rubber cap. Since the engine was at full operating temperature there was no way I could change out the cap there, so I drove home with my eyes glued to the temp gauge. After a couple of hours the engine was cool enough to change out the cap. Glad I caught this one in time!
IMG_3311.jpg
 
The Prado went bald today:
IMG_3312.jpg


I won't be needing the tent for a few weeks and figured it would be a good idea to do my tuning troubleshooting without the extra weight and wind resistance. Took a drive to log some data from the ECU and found that I can now run 120km/h on flat ground with EGT's in the 1150-1200ºF range. Still putting out a lot of smoke though, so some more tweaking is necessary.
 
Yesterday was maintenance day. I kicked it off with an oil change, followed by a 5 tire rotation and finished up replacing a rear u-joint. One of the things I love about the TDI engine is that quality German oil filters only cost about $5 each, a far cry from the $25+ of the Toyota filters.
IMG_3314.jpg


About the time I started draining the oil the sky clouded over and the wind started to blow, sending oil splatters all over the front driver tire. The rest of the work was pretty chilly.
IMG_3317.jpg


I pulled the rear driveshaft to check the u-joints again, and found that the joint at the rear diff had a stiff spot in it, so I decided to replace it. Unfortunately the new u-joint did not solve the vibration above 80 km/h. I think I will replace the other rear u-joint as well, but thinking that the vibration is not driveshaft related :(
IMG_3318.jpg
 
whats the chances , mine was vibrating at 80km/hr, im lazy and went for a quick fix, I hacked all the balance weights off my factory wheels(running 31/10.5) and hey presto no more vibration, however now it vibrates at 105km/hr, horses for courses I guess
 
whats the chances , mine was vibrating at 80km/hr, im lazy and went for a quick fix, I hacked all the balance weights off my factory wheels(running 31/10.5) and hey presto no more vibration, however now it vibrates at 105km/hr, horses for courses I guess
I had all my wheels rebalanced a couple of months ago, it took away a large vibration I was having at higher speeds, but not this one. The odd thing about the vibration I have right now is that it is only present under very light, almost coasting throttle until I get up above 100km/h. It is worse under light throttle at higher speeds too.
 
During my oil change I noticed another small coolant leak coming from a tiny plugged port on the back of the cylinder head. Another trip to the parts store yielded the correct size plug, and it was just a matter of contorting my hands enough to get the old one off and the new one on and tightened.
2AB77F1F-90AB-4B29-9C17-13688C36DD82.jpeg


Another very worn out rubber plug. I’m pretty sure that’s the last one on the engine, so hopefully that will put an end to my coolant leaks!
E1517F20-3528-470E-844F-F6EC6DAB244D.jpeg
 
During my oil change I noticed another small coolant leak coming from a tiny plugged port on the back of the cylinder head.
Do you know if these plugs are related to coolant pipes no longer in use because of the engine swap? Or are they present on factory applications for the ALH engine?
 
Do you know if these plugs are related to coolant pipes no longer in use because of the engine swap? Or are they present on factory applications for the ALH engine?
Both of those plugs were for factory VW coolant hoses, they were both for the expansion tank.
 
You need that tiny one the back of the head to pipe into the return. without it flowing you can get hot spots and or trap air in the head over time. Im sure you had that plug off when you filled the system correct? The one good thing about it leaking is it let any trapped air out. ;)
 
You need that tiny one the back of the head to pipe into the return. without it flowing you can get hot spots and or trap air in the head over time. Im sure you had that plug off when you filled the system correct? The one good thing about it leaking is it let any trapped air out. ;)
Good to know! I'll have to pick up some little hose and figure out how to plumb it back in somewhere.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom