another H42 into FJ62 thread

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

the thing bled like a dream-I think. Got good pedal pressure(i think the thing works)and plenty of return even without the spring in place. buddy picked up the rear driveshaft from D/L fresno. I'm gunna see what I can do about shortening the front shaft myself. I know I can get it stuck together well enough to get it around in 2, I have always wanted to try a driveshaft, and it'll be forgiving enough this time round as long as I don't ef it up too bad that it can't be fixed:hillbilly:
 
oh- or send something thru the pan if it comes apart when testing:eek:
 
pan pan pan RIGHT. I also got the new pan gasket on and the clutch cover in place. There is a new filter and oil in the crankcase, and gear oil in the transmission. Got a couple little things to do still on the transfercase, torque the shift shaft detent ball spring retaining bolt.....torque and stake the input output shaft nuts and install the input bearing cover and the side cover ground the t case to the body and install the vacuum tubes and shorten the hilo shift linkage AND jury rig a custom undercut 1/2 NPT tapered filler plug. Somuch for last tuesday:lol:
 
I am gunna guess that the late long H42 has the same oil capacity as the H55 due to the spacer. I read that at 4.9 liters and then 2.2 liters for the split case. Is that correct? also I am guessing that the switch at the rear most of the tcase is the lo gear sender and the one in the middle with 2 wires is the neutral sender? and the one at the front is obviously the 4X sender? I have searched and can't find a wiring diagram for this truck. Thanks!
 
re read Georgs thread, now I just need to ID the right wires to jump for neutral safety bypass, and verify the right connector to leave disconnected for the 2lo.
 
OK. so I found the thread, Yet Another A440 to H55 Swap With Pics, and there were some helpful bits on the wiring. Got it done according to that thread and at least it starts and shifts into 4(forgot to test 2lo:doh:)but I don't have the 4X indicator light. Also dont have the NEUTRAL indicator light, but that prolly has to do w/the fact that there is no longer any metal to hold the indicator lamp:doh:. Gunna hafta ditch that one anyway, cause I don't need it. :D gunna chase the old auto shifter harness back to its connector and get rid of it. I suppose because I am going to have 2lo, I could plug both senders on the back half of the tcase. I also did not check the reverse lights- dang, what DID I do??? BUT, it runs(like a 312000 mile old motor might) and I have clutch and I have no leaks-yet. Five minutes of run time with gears shifted and tcase shifted and outputs spinning. I have about 3.8 quarts in the transmission and static, it was full. There are 2.4 quarts in the tcase. I'll check em all after some run time. I still need to address the exhaust support brackets get the shifter booted and cover the a440 shifter hole. Then do some body work on the front drivers fender so the new to me door(also from Senior Georg)can open w/o catching the fender and then getting caught under it(po backed into something w/ the door open) and then go thru the front axle. The drive shaft driver got sick today and won't have my shaft till tomorrow and I have yet to cut into my front driveshaft
 
dude it was so much easier to get the pedal buckets out and in with that gaping window to work thru. It also enabled me to get the buckets removed/installed w/o having to dick w/the brake booster. It was not that bad at all:hillbilly:. Got the front D shaft done up. Again, it was not that bad. FWIU, the trick is to get it straight. It's just like a cut and turn but smaller. I did have to yank the slip joint twice...the first time I didn't get the phasing right:doh: Leave about an 1/8" gap and make 3 passes between the yoke flange and the pipe(very thin) to get a good penetration. I will test this thing with gusto and no fear of it coming apart. My only concern is the balance/vibration I might get from bein a hillbilly w/o all the right toys. I used an angle grinder and some cut off wheels, a hammer, chisel, 6" bench vice and a welder.
late fall 11 047.webp
late fall 11 049.webp
late fall 11 050.webp
 
some heat on the tube before trying to set the slip yoke into it helped by making the bore a bit larger. Still had to use a hammer to drive it home tho.
late fall 11 053.webp
 
okay. it moves on its own! haven't gone very far, but all indications are that it will work. I spent the last few days doing the knuckles/ wheel bearings and ended up w/ new calipers and rotors as well. Got the rear DS bolted in. will post pics later. at this point, I'm needing to have the springs re-arched and some new TREs and bushings
 
IT GOES!!! and then I had to do the drum brakes. Gunna hafta address the rear wheel bearings as well:mad: Anyone know if I'll get air and a leak in the brake hydraulics if I might have happened to have pinched a tiny breech in the wheel cylinder rubber boot?:mad::mad::mad:. At this point, I'll have a whole new truck if I do the motor, go thru the transmission and then the diffs and cats/O2 sensors. I got more done this time around then the budget alotted for, but I also got more truck for it. I have about 2100 into everything including the rig so far. (not counting the clutch pedal bucket, bellhousing, clutch components, flywheel, knuckle kit w/ front wheel bearings. I could not have done this w/o this forum and a special few people (Georg) who were able to help make this work out. Thank You All.
 
awesome! I kinda thought that was the case, but the mind fade, OH the mind fade:rolleyes: I had also resigned to having to get back in there:doh: to do the rear wheel bearings.....Thanks Dude!
 
Gunna do the spring bushings, and run the springs and TREs for now as I'm waaaay over budget and I still gotta get reg and smog. That'll dictate if I do the rear wheel bearings and springs or the cats and O2 sensors next.
 
So from start to finish, how much time/money have you got into swapping the H42 in?

I'm just trying to get an idea of a budget for mine once I start.

Also: How much of a difference have you noticed in power compared to the A440f?
 
If I were to consider the parts that I already had to do this with, then I would say it was around 1000 bucks cold. That includes the cost of the tcase kit, trans mounts, anbd driveshafts. If I'd had all the hardware and other parts, flywheel surfaced etc etc, on hand, I would put this at 5 days for one guy w/o killing yourself. Maybe 7. Less 2-3 days if you have level concrete and a workbench w/ room to work on it.....plan on doing your tcase if you haven't already.....welder on hand is a must or add time and$$$ and a press would also make for less time. HTH I have not been on a very good drive yet, but I don't notice it being sluggish. also I have no baseline cause I figure the auto was dead when I got it- it was a long drive home w/it(15 loooong miles)
 
LAMBCRUSHER said:
If I were to consider the parts that I already had to do this with, then I would say it was around 1000 bucks cold. That includes the cost of the tcase kit, trans mounts, and driveshafts. If I'd had all the hardware and other parts, flywheel surfaced etc etc, on hand, I would put this at 5 days for one guy w/o killing yourself. Maybe 7. Less 2-3 days if you have level concrete and a workbench w/ room to work on it.....plan on doing your tcase if you haven't already.....welder on hand is a must or add time and$$$ and a press would also make for less time. HTH I have not been on a very good drive yet, but I don't notice it being sluggish. also I have no baseline cause I figure the auto was dead when I got it- it was a long drive home w/it(15 loooong miles)
Click to expand...

Whew, that's a little steeper than I was thinking, but totally makes sense now that I think about it.

Where'd you get the tcase kit?
 
What can I say, Georg is prolly the only reason I got so much done for such a low cost. With information, and parts. He's freakin cruiser smart, AND nice about it! I really would have been s*** up the creek if his expertise and service were not there. Mad Cruiser Karma for him
 
Finally got the title transfered and a moving permit. after a day of fine tuning the timing, TPS, changing out blistering intake water lines, vacuum tubes, changing the air fliter, lubing the drivelines and tacking the exhaust hanger bracket back to the new transmission mount bracket, etc, etc, I got a nice 45 mile round trip to the smog shop(who wouldn't do it cause it was 4:35 already) It sounds like I need to adjust the valves, but it is a 3 on a scale of 1- 10, with 1 being a brand new subaru, and 10 being my old FJ55 with 33"muds, as far as interior noise goes. No leaks, or funky running. and no sluggish at all.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom