Another CV Axle Discussion Thread (1 Viewer)

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abuck99 said:
Personally I would replace the entire axle not half of it; in fact its more labor to do 1/2 and then reboot the inner. If the outer is worn, the inner is worn: (cage, ramps, bearings). $360+/- each side for complete axles.

On a new axle I wouldn't change the clamps until you have to- you have at least 12mo warranty on the part, so wait it out. The inner boot small clamp is the one that generally weeps- this clamp is different than the outer boot- and there's really no way to tighten it, since it's a lever type locking clamp. These have been loosening up for some (including me) around the 12-15 month range- so keep an eye on it. My preferred replacement clamp is this Napa boot clamp-
Small CVB6865833
Large CVB6865833

And this tool to achieve the correct crimp: FSM calls for a gap of .8mm to set the correct tension of the clamp.

Amazon product ASIN B005J3L4BW
Click to expand...

My problem is different than OPs. I've got an original Toyota one that has screwed up outer splines (don't ask) but perfectly serviceable inner shaft that I'd like to get back to 100% for when the aftermarket one I installed inevitably fails.

Thanks for posting number and pics, JunkCrzr89!!
 
This might not the right spot but...
I have a used set of Toyota front cv axles off a 2000 only 100k miles before I changed them. They need new boot clamps.
PM me...
 
suprarx7nut said:
That was the price via EB Toyota or McGeorge up until recently. Looks like pricing has recently increased to around $400 each.

43430-60040 - Axle Assembly - 1998-2007 Toyota Land Cruiser | Boch Toyota South

1998-2007 Toyota Land Cruiser - Axle Assembly - 4343060040. Genuine Toyota® Parts & Accessories. Manufacturer Warranty. From the Dealership to your Door. Experts standing by.
toyotaparts.bochtoyotasouth.com toyotaparts.bochtoyotasouth.com
Click to expand...

Darn it, I was hoping you had the magic info. I just bought one for about 400 :(
 
This evening I stopped by O'Reilly and purchased an Import Direct (ID) CV axle to compare to the new OEM.. There are some significant differences.

1) For my other vehicles, I have found the (ID) to be the same product as Trackmotive/Surtrack. I cannot prove the whether or not this is true for LX470/LC100 axles. The pictures below provide "tell tale" signs that can be matched to other axles from the same manufacturer in China.

2) The ID axles have some shape differences that are noted in the picture examples below.

3) The inner part of the shaft that mates up with the differential, is so different that it looks like these parts for different vehicles.

4) The OEM boots feel 3x to 4x thicker than the ID boots. This could be due to the ID axles using a boot material like Dupont Hytrel which is designed to be light weight. I'm not saying new lightweight boot technology is bad. It is just very different from the OEM boots.

5) The inner spline does not have a tapered edge like the OEM. I do not know if this makes a difference, but it is enough to cause concern.

The posts below show the ID axles next to the new OEM.

Part Number

1582348135885.png


When the aftermarket axle has been stretched out to the proper end length, the inner boot collapses due a vacuum being formed as its pulled out. The inner boot clamp positions are in different positions when comparing OEM to the aftermarket. The OEM axle, at rest, naturally sits in the correct position without having to be stretched out.

1582381176418.png



Differential side differences. The ends are tapered on the OEM compared to a flat end on the aftermarket. The body on the left is larger and has a different shape than the aftermarket on the right. My experience with a bare metal CV finish is that it eventually rusts and looses its luster. It looks like the spline ends have a slightly different depth after the ring clip.

1582381493789.png


The OEM (hub end) spline on the right has a slightly different look from the aftermarket on the left.

1582381814496.png


Once more look at the boot difference.


1582381935214.png


After making this comparison, I am glad that I paid $400 each for new OEM axles. I don't think I could attempt to try the aftermarket axles. There are too many differences between these products to ignore.
 
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medtro said:
You can pull the axles to make them longer. I don't think length is an issue here.
Click to expand...

I'll try it and rephotograph tomorrow. I tried to pull it out tonight but it pulled back in when I rolled it.
 
medtro said:
Do you have new flanges? Can you please try them on the new axles and compare how they fit if you have them?
Click to expand...

I really need to buy them and anything else needed to complete the job. Can you recommend a source for the flanges and other parts? Point me in the right direction for those parts and I'll be glad to make a comparison.
 
OwnerCS said:
I really need to buy them and anything else needed to complete the job. Can you recommend a source for the flanges and other parts? Point me in the right direction for those parts and I'll be glad to make a comparison.
Click to expand...
I’m with @medtro on this. The inner boot on the aftermarket axle looks compressed, so should be able to pull it out to have same length as OEM axle. Similar to medtro, I’d be most concerned about the manner in which the splines on the outboard shaft were created and how well a new hub flange mates to it (e.g., excessive backlash?). That and the fact that the aftermarket axle *probably* has a 3-lobe joint whereas the OEM axle has a 6-lobe, the latter of which provides slightly more range of motion without binding.

Can get new hub flange for ~$55 at any Toyota dealer or Toyota parts website. Camelback, McGeorge, etc.
 
OwnerCS said:
I really need to buy them and anything else needed to complete the job. Can you recommend a source for the flanges and other parts? Point me in the right direction for those parts and I'll be glad to make a comparison.
Click to expand...

Cruiser Outfitters can fix you up with anything you need (Vendor here).

There are better aftermarket CV axles than that one to compare to the OEM (I.E. Cardone HD)

Also, I think you might be confusing the differential with the T-Case. The inboard splined end mates up with side gears of the differential. Transfercase is mated to your Transmission and your 'driveshafts' receive power from it.

 
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flintknapper said:
Cruiser Outfitters can fix you up with anything you need (Vendor here).

There are better aftermarket CV axles than that one to compare to the OEM (I.E. Cardone HD)

Also, I think you might be confusing the differential with the T-Case. The inboard splined end mates up with side gears of the differential. Transfercase is mated to your Transmission and your 'driveshafts' receive power from it.
Click to expand...

Good catch on the differential. Fixed it. I've been eyeing parts at CO's site. O'Reilly has a different line of CV axle that looks more like OEM than the ID model.

Although I already bought new OEMs, I wanted to compare them to brands where I can pick up and return parts locally without hassle.

I have been very successful running the ID axles on other FWD vehicles. So far, they have performed better than axles that I have used from Advance Auto. The AA axles would blow out boots after 3 years of use. The ID axles are still going strong after 4 years. So this is eye opening and disappointing that these axles are so different from OEM. For the LX470 restoration, I'm taking an approach of "buy once", "cry once", and run for another 10+ years without issues.
 
OwnerCS said:
For the LX470 restoration, I'm taking an approach of "buy once", "cry once", and run for another 10+ years without issues.
Click to expand...

^^^^^

I believe that to be a wise move. With any aftermarket set of CV's I would check the fitment of the outboard splines to the drive flange. Currently, I have new flanges and new Cardone HD CV's to install on my LX and the fit it quite 'tight'. Tighter than you can manage by hand. Whether or not that proves to be a problem for me...is yet to be seen The rest of the Axle looks solid enough and there is no disparity in size elsewhere (length, inner end, etc). They also use a heavy thermoplastic boot (not thin neoprene).

But...good of you to make the comparisons and post them here. The more knowledge and experiences we have to go on....the better for everyone...when making choices.
 
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flintknapper said:
^^^^^

I believe that to be a wise move. With any aftermarket set of CV's I would check the fitment of the outboard splines to the drive flange. Currently, I have new flanges and new Cardone HD CV's to install on my LX and the fit it quite 'tight'. Tighter than you can manage by hand. Whether or not that proves to be a problem for me...is yet to be seen The rest of the Axle looks solid enough and is no disparity in size elsewhere (length, inner end, etc). They also use a heavy thermoplastic boot (not thin neoprene).

But...good of you to make the comparisons and post them here. The more knowledge and experiences we have to go on....the better for everyone...when making choices.
Click to expand...

Exactly. We are all working to build up our LC100/LX470 Knowledge Management System. :)
 
Updated the pictures with better lighting. The inner boot has a vacuum that pulls in the CV shaft that made it look shorter in first pictures. It feels like the aftermarket tripod bearings rest in a slightly different location than the OEM.

I can show you some aftermarket boots after 3 years that start out like the outer boot that have been stretched during operation.

It doesn't end well when the boots are stretched into an unnatural resting position. I managed to get 3 years out of these AA boots before they started disintegrating.

1582382383250.png



1582382445750.png


1582382514700.png
 
The factory boots are made of a proprietary material and seem to last the longest. You'll notice the outside boot is a stiffer material- more plastic than rubber compared to the inner boot.

FWIW a tripod type CV is something typically found on a 120, or 150 platform. The Rzeppa type CV (6 bearing & cage) is what comes on the 100 series, 200 series. It's pretty easy to tell the difference by the outer shape of the tulip. Generally the Rzeppa type are round, and the Tripod type have convex/concave sides.

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If someone has offered using a tripod type CV in your 100- it won't work well or last very long
 
abuck99 said:
The factory boots are made of a proprietary material and seem to last the longest. You'll notice the outside boot is a stiffer material- more plastic than rubber compared to the inner boot.

FWIW a tripod type CV is something typically found on a 120, or 150 platform. The Rzeppa type CV (6 bearing & cage) is what comes on the 100 series, 200 series. It's pretty easy to tell the difference by the outer shape of the tulip. Generally the Rzeppa type are round, and the Tripod type have convex/concave sides.

View attachment 2218305View attachment 2218306

If someone has offered using a tripod type CV in your 100- it won't work well or last very long
Click to expand...
Great information! It helps to explain the OEM difference. Thanks for sharing.
 
One aftermarket axle brand that I have heard mentioned but cannot confirm anyone has used and installed is the Nitro Gear axles for the 100 series. @TRAIL TAILOR was the one that initially mentioned it in another axle discussion thread as an option outside of using someone like CVJ Axles or Detroit Axles. I shot them an email to see if they could provide any information on what type of joint their axle utilizes.
 
More than likely Rzeppa type- You can easily tell by looking. Ive only seen a couple of cheap aftermarket cv’s spec’d for a 100 that featured a tripod type inner- its not a customary application on a 100.
 
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