Kinda looks like one of the 4 nuts that are used on the end of the J-bolt at the battery tie down. Maybe you used it when you were installing the studs using the 2-nut method? Just a guess...
-B-
Another Blown Head Gasket - repair in progress (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Shipwreck
- Start date
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Kinda looks like one of the 4 nuts that are used on the end of the J-bolt at the battery tie down. Maybe you used it when you were installing the studs using the 2-nut method? Just a guess...
-B-
I take packing HG's very seriously considering the cost of the part as well as the awaiting customer on the other end. I always plan for some damage along the way which is why I try my hardest to give the box some latitude in terms of predicted travel damage.
That said, doesn't always work out. UPS folks are very tough to boxes and sometimes even HG's don't make it.....like LT's order. I was very pissed about that. But his order was, ahem, slightly different....
That said, doesn't always work out. UPS folks are very tough to boxes and sometimes even HG's don't make it.....like LT's order. I was very pissed about that. But his order was, ahem, slightly different....
That said, doesn't always work out. UPS folks are very tough to boxes and sometimes even HG's don't make it.....like LT's order. I was very pissed about that. But he is, ahem, slightly different....
Spelling correction..............
Thanks man. Yeah the knee has definitely slowed me down a little. I had x-rays and an MRI two days ago. It's a torn anterior cruciate ligament.
I meet with the orthopedic surgeon next week.
Not tech, but I had a serious knee injury and major surgery in August (I tore my quadriceps tendon, which is a bad bad injury), and I played basketball yesterday. So keep your chin up. You'll be back at 100% in no time.
Very good thread, thank you!
Did you happen to take any pictures of this bolt installed into the cam gear?
Newb questions: before the valve cover is buttoned up, do you pour some engine oil or use any assembly lube on the camshaft, timing chain, etc? Also, do you use any device or method to pump up the oil pressure before you turn the engine over for first time after the job?
Alia176 has a thread on the exhaust cam service bolt. These are the only 2 pics that I could find; the clear one is his, the other has the service bolt at 2-o'clock where the shiny spot is. As I understand it, the gears will all line up when the service bolt is installed properly. Like the middle picture. Ali's picture is at the bottom and I believe is when the gears are not lined up and therefore that picture is "incorrect" so to speak. Maybe Ali will chime in to clear things up.
-B-
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^Quoted image of Shipwreck's from above
I'm asking this question as I just buttoned up my HG this past Sunday night and wasn't too confident with the process of installing the distributor (never done it before). When I aligned the the marks on the drive gear/housing and pushed the distributor in, the rotor was pointing just to the left of the electrical connector on the distributor. I got the cap and tried to visualize where the rotor would meet the contact for cylinder #1 and it seemed to about right. Also, the FSM makes it look like the rotor should be slightly rotated counter-clockwise from 12:00 at TDC (FSM image below). I've driven my truck all week and it seems to run/sound fine, but I'm wondering if you or I are a tooth off.
(Off topic: I was in Tahoe, as well, at the same time that your HG gave up the ghost. It was my first time skiing out west and we did 2 days at Heavenly and 2 days at Kirkwood for a buddy's bachelor party. There are so many Land Cruisers down there! I saw a bunch of rackless/spoilerless 80s, not to mention 60s, 40s and minitrucks. It's LC heaven down there compared to NH and the skiing will definitely make me go back!)
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[QUOTE
Josh,
Here’s the final steps for setting your timing and installing the dizzy:
I placed a new o-ring on the distributor, with a little oil added after to lube it before installation.
[/QUOTE]
Nice--- That is what I was looking for! Looks easier than installing a Dizzy in a push rod engine.
Josh,
Here’s the final steps for setting your timing and installing the dizzy:
I placed a new o-ring on the distributor, with a little oil added after to lube it before installation.
[/QUOTE]
Nice--- That is what I was looking for! Looks easier than installing a Dizzy in a push rod engine.
Very good thread, thank you!
Did you happen to take any pictures of this bolt installed into the cam gear?
Poser-- I will be sure to snap a some pictures of this when I tear into mine next week.
Josh
the rotor should be pointing slightly to the left (11:00 o'clock) when installed properly. That's provided the crank is set to TDC and there is no slack in the chain.
- Thread starter
- #73
Good catch Chaldaean!
You're right, I'm a tooth off. I do remember that photo from the FSM, but during my late night wrenching session I remembered it as the position the rotor should be in when the distributor is removed rather than installed.
Like this?
Thanks for the catch guys. I'll edit the earlier post to note the correct position.
- Thread starter
- #74
Here's a little more detail about the cam gear service bolt:
The exhaust side cam has a two part gear. A main gear and a sub gear separated by a spring and held together with a wave washer. I assume this is to provide a slight thrust against the intake gear and #1 bearing cap.
The service bolt is just a 6mm bolt (10mm head)placed through the sub gear into the main gear to compress the spring and hold the two gears together in proper position during the removal process.
This little bolt remains in the cam gears until the camshaft is returned to the freshened head. Then it needs to be removed. It is one of those little things that could be easy to overlook.
I should mention that once the cams are in place and before you install the dist. you should turn the intake cam CCW to take the slack out of the chain. This will ensure that the dist. is timed properly.
And the last pic shows the correct position.
And the last pic shows the correct position.
Shipwreck--- Whats the status? Took the family to Disney for spring break last week and now I ready to get the HG started.
josh
josh
94SRUNNER
GOLD Star
Shipwreck---
Just wanted to tell what a great write-up this. Thanks for taking the time to take all of the pictures.
Look forward to the exciting conclusion!
Just wanted to tell what a great write-up this. Thanks for taking the time to take all of the pictures.
Look forward to the exciting conclusion!
- Thread starter
- #78
Update / wrap up
Sorry guys. I’ve been meaning to update this thread for awhile but have been hammered at work lately. I do have some final observations though, so here goes:
After buttoning up the engine and double checking that everything was in place and torqued correctly, I was ready to fire up the engine. I had filled the radiator with plain water since I planned to flush the system after driving a couple days. I also filled with Castrol initially and will switch to synthetic after a couple hundred miles.
First I wanted to make sure that everything was lubricated as much as possible. Before I placed the head back on the block I had cleaned debris from the cylinders by cycling the pistons several times and wiping the walls. I then added some Marvel Mystery Oil to the rings. I also primed the oil pump before replacing the upper oil pan. I added a quart of oil to the camshafts when they were placed.
The last step was to turn the engine over several times to get oil pumped to the head and crank. I did this by disconnecting the coil wire and cranking the starter a few revolutions. Once this was done, I reconnected the coil wire and turned the ignition key.
I was a little surprised when the engine fired up on the first revolution. I was also expecting quite a bit of smoke on start-up but it too was less than anticipated.
The smoke cleared in a couple minutes. The engine idled slightly higher than normal and was a little erratic, but I had not yet set the timing so I wasn’t too concerned. Unfortunately, when I grabbed the timing light to set things straight I discovered a broken magnetic pick up on the light. It was dead. The timing would have to wait.
I drove it for a day until I could buy another timing light and reset the timing. It idled high and jumped around by 50 rpm. I stopped at Sears on the way home from work, bought another light and timed the engine in the parking lot. Turns out I was at least 20* advanced. Once I dialed it in to specs the idle returned to normal.
I drove it for a week with no problems. No leaks anywhere. It was so nice to see a clean oil pan without a single drip forming. The following weekend I flushed the cooling system. Twice. Then added factory red coolant. I was done. The last step is to change the oil to synthetic after putting a few more miles on her.
Sorry guys. I’ve been meaning to update this thread for awhile but have been hammered at work lately. I do have some final observations though, so here goes:
After buttoning up the engine and double checking that everything was in place and torqued correctly, I was ready to fire up the engine. I had filled the radiator with plain water since I planned to flush the system after driving a couple days. I also filled with Castrol initially and will switch to synthetic after a couple hundred miles.
First I wanted to make sure that everything was lubricated as much as possible. Before I placed the head back on the block I had cleaned debris from the cylinders by cycling the pistons several times and wiping the walls. I then added some Marvel Mystery Oil to the rings. I also primed the oil pump before replacing the upper oil pan. I added a quart of oil to the camshafts when they were placed.
The last step was to turn the engine over several times to get oil pumped to the head and crank. I did this by disconnecting the coil wire and cranking the starter a few revolutions. Once this was done, I reconnected the coil wire and turned the ignition key.
I was a little surprised when the engine fired up on the first revolution. I was also expecting quite a bit of smoke on start-up but it too was less than anticipated.
The smoke cleared in a couple minutes. The engine idled slightly higher than normal and was a little erratic, but I had not yet set the timing so I wasn’t too concerned. Unfortunately, when I grabbed the timing light to set things straight I discovered a broken magnetic pick up on the light. It was dead. The timing would have to wait.
I drove it for a day until I could buy another timing light and reset the timing. It idled high and jumped around by 50 rpm. I stopped at Sears on the way home from work, bought another light and timed the engine in the parking lot. Turns out I was at least 20* advanced. Once I dialed it in to specs the idle returned to normal.
I drove it for a week with no problems. No leaks anywhere. It was so nice to see a clean oil pan without a single drip forming. The following weekend I flushed the cooling system. Twice. Then added factory red coolant. I was done. The last step is to change the oil to synthetic after putting a few more miles on her.
Let me be the first to congratulate you on a job very well done! Thanks for taking us along for the ride!
Very Nice! I really appreciate all of the time and effort you spent putting this thread together. This will definitely help me as I dig into my LX's HG.
josh
josh
