Another Blown Head Gasket - repair in progress

[elhombre]

I see from your photos that your engine was turned brown. My guess was this is from the PO running Pennsoil through the engine for a while. I can also see it in the cylinder bores. My guess is that it is from the wax that Pennsoil is said to use. Either way, you should run an engine flush through the engine once it gets put back together because that wax is most likely caked up inside the rings. It is a great time to do it also because you said you are going to drop the oil pan and you can get the crap out of that at that time.

I would also suggest replacing the plastic timing chain guides and the timing chain. Most people don't do this because they are not taking the timing chain cover off, but you are there. I believe the cost of the chain, guides, and tensioner can be had for around $120 from Mr. T.

It would also be a great time to get those injectors serviced.

Yea, that's right, I am all about spending someone else's money. Go Obama

 

[Shipwreck]

Day 6 Update

The head should come back from the shop tomorrow. Minimal warpage on the head surface although the tech said the valve seals were shot. He was surprised that the truck didnt smoke, but this might explain the carbon build up on the cylinder heads.

As Beowulf suggested, I pulled the oil cooler to check for sludge. I found a nice thin layer of pond scum, but not nearly as bad as I thought it might be. I cleaned it up and slapped it back together with some fresh gaskets.

cooler:

A little methanol, a scraper, 3M pads and some elbow grease and the deck is ready for the new gasket:

My shipment from CDan arrived yesterday which included the valve grind set and a few new preventive maintenance items. My old water pump looked good when I pulled it, but upon close inspection I can feel a very slight movement in the shaft. I'm glad I've got the new one going in.

I had the throttle body and upper intake off about a year ago to replace my VSV and at that time I thoroughly cleaned the TB and intakes. I was a little surprised to see the carbon build up in the throttle and a nice patina along the intake runners in less than a year.

I'm hoping that the fresh valve seals and switch to full synthetic oils will help the situation, but I need to look back at Turbocruiser's write up on using a catch can to quell the carbon build up.

 

[josharre2000]

I am going to order all my parts tomorrow from Dan and hopefully get started in the next week or so. I am specifically interested in removal/installation of the Cams and Dizzy. After reading the FSM and watching Doug's video, I am a bit confused if the Cams and the Dizzy need to go in a specific way when putting them back on/in the head. It would be awesome if you could provide some observations as you go through this process...

Thanks!

Josh

 

[cruiserdan]

Josh I am flying to Salt Lake City tomorrow to attend Larry Miller's funeral. I will be back on Monday.

D-

 

[josharre2000]

no worries. I will call you next week.

Josh

 

[VanGo]

SW

Good work! You are hitting all the the major "while you are in there items", keep up the progress and she'll be running soon enough!!

 

[Shipwreck]

latest update

Somebody needs to stop me!

This is getting out of hand now. The head didn't come back from the machine shop, so I've been delving further into the engine and it's stripped down to a block, crankshaft and pistons now. I think I've finally removed everything that needed service and now I'm starting to put things back on.

Before all of this started I planned to pull the oil pans to reseal the pan arches. They were leaking front and rear. Now was the time since I had easier access.

It took along time to clean the pans. They were both coated with a thick layer of old grease and oil.

The front was also leaking at the timing cover, so it came off too:

Since the cover was off, it was a simple procedure to replace the oil pump gasket and the front crankshaft seal.

The oil pump seal was dry, brittle and cracked easily when I pryed it out.
I had to use an impact driver to remove the screws on the cover. This job would have been a bitch if trying to go at it with everything still mounted on the truck.

I placed a new crankshaft seal in the cover and tapped it into place using the old seal.

Next step was to set the timing again. I aligned the bright link of the timing chain with timing mark on the crankshaft gear:

...and then did the same with the upper gear:

After the chain was aligned with the gears, I buttoned up the timing cover using some black FIPG.
josharre2000 - When you set the head back on the block, the timing gear and chain needs to be positioned as shown in this photo. I'll try to take more pics of the process of putting the cams back into position once I get the head back from the machine shop.

 

[Beowulf]

Did you raise the engine to remove the upper oil pan?
-B-

 

[cruiserdan]

The nut on the engine mount is missing so I hope he did.

 

[Beowulf]

The nut on the engine mount is missing so I hope he did.

Yep, and I see a chain bolted to the block in this image.

-B-

 

[JerseyCruiser]

Nice work! I did all those extra things when I changed my blown HG plus new radiator, timing chain and slipper and sent injectors to RC engineering. It took about a month to get it done wrenching mostly on weekends and having to wait for parts I placed about 3 separate orders to Dan, the deeper I got into it the more parts I discovered I needed. I also did TurboCruiser's catch can setup, well worth it in my opinion. It was great being able to take care of all those problems at once, and was very satisfying having a better running engine that was completely leak free.

 

[josharre2000]

After the chain was aligned with the gears, I buttoned up the timing cover using some black FIPG.
josharre2000 - When you set the head back on the block, the timing gear and chain needs to be positioned as shown in this photo. I'll try to take more pics of the process of putting the cams back into position once I get the head back from the machine shop.

Thanks-- Getting all of the 40 parts and ATVs cleared out of the garage in preparation. I am going to call Dan this week to get everything on order.

Keep up the awesome work/info...

Josh

 

[Shipwreck]

Update

I haven’t updated my progress in a few days so here it goes…

It took a week to get my head back from the machine shop. The tech was meticulous about everything so I can’t complain. I’d rather it be done properly than rushed to a finish. The head got a good cleaning, new seals, a valve grind, valve adjustment and a 0.007 shave to the surface.
It looks good.

I attached the lower intake manifold to the head before placing it back on the block. The intake gasket is set so that this little tab points to the rear.

Now was a good time to replace the fuel filter:

I replaced the PHH with a couple of sleeved stainless steel clamps. I also cut a notch in the retaining bolt bracket for the PHH tube. This way, if I ever need to replace the hose again, I won’t need to completely remove the retaining bolt and it will be easier to rotate the tube up and away.

notch:

 

[Shipwreck]

...I am specifically interested in removal/installation of the Cams and Dizzy. After reading the FSM and watching Doug's video, I am a bit confused if the Cams and the Dizzy need to go in a specific way when putting them back on/in the head. It would be awesome if you could provide some observations as you go through this process...

Thanks!

Josh

For you josharre:
The FSM is pretty straight forward in regards to setting the timing and aligning the camshafts, but here is a visual:
Make sure the crankshaft is set to TDC:

Then looking at the back side of the cam gears, you will see the alignment marks. Match up the single dots together in the center and align the two dots at the outer edge in a straight line:

Then you can place the timing gear:

I added oil to the camshaft journals and when setting them in and again before replacing the valve cover.
Important: Don’t forget to remove the service bolt from the exhaust side camshaft gear before sealing up the valve cover. This could be easy to overlook.

 

[Shipwreck]

When I placed the exhaust manifolds back on, I removed the four studs used to connect the exhaust pipes. This made it easier to fit the pipes. Once the exhaust manifold was set on the block loosely I was able to easily align the manifolds with the exhaust and then replace the studs from below.

And this is what happens when you are working at 1 AM in the morning, taking pictures and not paying close attention to what you are doing. I goofed on one spark plug seal and put it in upside down. I then preserved my mistake by photographing it. Luckily it was an easy fix. I had lubed the edge of the seal so it pressed out without damage. I flipped it over and put it back in. By the way …a 36mm socket works perfectly for setting the new seals in place

I’m getting close now, a few more hours to reattach the wiring harness, replace the upper intake, throttle body and a few belts and hoses and this thing will be done. I’ve been bicycling to work and borrowing cars from friends when I need to. It will be nice to get back on the road again.

 

[OGBeno]

I replaced the PHH with a couple of sleeved stainless steel clamps. I also cut a notch in the retaining bolt bracket for the PHH tube. This way, if I ever need to replace the hose again, I won’t need to completely remove the retaining bolt and it will be easier to rotate the tube up and away.

Nice work so far. Real nice.

I jsut got rid of that hard tube. I put a soft line all the way. I just carry a piece of Gate the same size now and can replace if things go bad.

 

[asaracho]

I'm very impressed with your work - with a blown knee even! I've done major work on motorcycles before but never on automobiles. I just purchased a '92 80 and will be doing all the PM work myself so seeing threads like these really gets me motivated. Thanks for taking the time to take pictures of your progress!

 

[Shipwreck]

I'm very impressed with your work - with a blown knee even!

Thanks man. Yeah the knee has definitely slowed me down a little. I had x-rays and an MRI two days ago. It's a torn anterior cruciate ligament.
I meet with the orthopedic surgeon next week.

 

[josharre2000]

Shipwreck-- Man I really appreciate all of the info. All of my parts showed up from Dan last week so plan on tearing into it sometime next week.

Now another dumb question.... Got the valve grind kit from Dan and for the heck of it, I cannot figure out what all of the little o-ring gaskets are. I can pretty much figure out the big stuff, its all the little gaskets that are throwing me off. I am sure I can work it out as I do the tear down. However, if you have any pointers, I will gladly take them.

Nice work BTW>>>

Josh

 

[OGBeno]

Now another dumb question.... Got the valve grind kit from Dan and for the heck of it, I cannot figure out what all of the little o-ring gaskets are. I can pretty much figure out the big stuff, its all the little gaskets that are throwing me off.

Fuel injectors orings.