Another Blown Head Gasket - repair in progress

smug01

 
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Alia, It sounds like he was trying to pull the complete harness from below as I did and is described in the FSM, but when he couldn't get the big connector loose down near the drivers footwell he gave up and started working from the other end and began unhooking the ECU side of the harness.
...Right smug?
Exactly. I will give a try on the connecor like you and alia suggested but I think I am about ready to switch over and try going from the ECU end fairly quickly since it really seems like it may be easier and less frustrating. I'll let you know how it goes.

Thanks again for the help! :cheers:

-Craig
 

Onur

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Pulling the wiring harness is really the only way to pull the entire thing out without having to have to cut the intake manifold.

To me, this was poor thinking on Toyota's part by running the harness through the intake manifold runners basically splitting the harness into two.

While you have the harness out, I would spend some time checking the length of it and rewrapping sections of it as needed--especially the section behind the EGR valve where you are getting very high amounts of heat--well over 700 degrees. Heat tape will work well here over an underwrap.

Good luck.
-o-
 

alia176

 
 
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To me, this was poor thinking on Toyota's part by running the harness through the intake manifold runners basically splitting the harness into two.

Good luck.
-o-
I forgive Uncle Toy since he gave us big ass birfs and rear axles :D
 

TrickyT

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I'm a little confused by your post. You ARE trying to remove the harness from the ECU and pull it through the firewall, right? If not, I don't know what you're trying to do.

I pulled the upper half of the intake manifold off, then pulled the ECU harness through the firewall. Then you can thread the ECU harness through the lower half of the intake manifold. Finally, the lower part of the intake manifold can be removed from the vehicle for cleaning.
Ahh, copy that. When I pulled an engine out, I pulled the complete harness out the way you're trying to do. However, for just the head gasket project, I did what I described above, and pulled the ECU harness through the firewall.
x2. Disconnecting the harness at the ECU and pulling it through the firewall is no big deal. Maybe 10 mins work.
 
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I believe my HG blew this morning, we will see later today for sure when i hear back from local shop.

But you thread really motivates me to attempt this my self.
One bad thing is i live in an apartment, i do have a garage but im limited on noise levels.

Did you use power/air tools? Was it necessary?
 

smug01

 
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Nope...no power or air tools for me. The only air I used was one of the canned air for cleaning keyboards to blow out the head bolt threads in the block.

On a side note, I told my wife it would take 3 days, but it took 2 weeks working on it a couple hours each night after work. In reality, I think I put in about 25 - 30 hours of work with a bunch of down time waiting for the head work and parts. It would probably be more like 12 - 15 hours if I did it again since I got real hung up on the engine harness (my recomendation is to disconnect from the glove box end). So I think if you can set aside a good block of time over a few days and read up on all the good info on this site, go for it!

Also, one more tidbit...I actually wore through my clearcoat on the driver side fender from leaning my sweaty body over thhe edge while working. Make sure you cover your paint on the areas you will be leaning against.

-Craig
 

little_joe

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One silly question I have: while you have the head off at the machine shop, do you do anything to seal up or coat the block + internals to prevent any corrosion, condensation, or flash surface rust? Particularly in a wet or humid area, this seems like it may be a concern.
 
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I would just spray it down with WD-40. That should prevent all surface rust. When we store a bare block for a short time we spray all the journals and cylinders down with it and then put it in a bag. I have never had an issue with rust doing it that way.

D
 

Bryan E.

 
 
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I just started reading this thread and am impressed with the speed that you are progressing especially with a bum knee. I doubt that I could do it this quickly with two good knees. You seem to really know your way around an engine and good with a wrench.

In the picture where you are measuring your head bolts with a super cheap set of plastic calipers. Wow, I am a machinist and have seen and used those. I wouldn't trust them on anything, except something like woodworking. I wouldn't even trust a calibrated set of Mitotoyo Digital new calipers on that, but would only use a high quality set of micrometers for measuring those bolts. I work as a machinist, where we make high quality fasteners and the way you are measuring with that caliper brings up all kinds of red flags. Hope they don't break when you torque these down because I sure don't trust your measurements to determine if they are good or not. Obviously you were ok in these parts, but for the next guy, I would urge they use a more accurate measuring device.

Measuring a bolt on a lawnmower handle, sure use those, but not something like this. Pay the bucks for a quality micrometer, something good quality like Starett, Mitutoyo, Brown and Sharp, etc. or have somebody measure them with good tools.

Thanks so much for taking the time to photograph this and take us along for the ride as you went. Just finished reading this thread and very impressed with your skills.

"He done good, Fred".
Smokey and the Bandit.
 
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Hi Guys Im a TLC Rookie and need some help and info.
I would like to know if a blown gasket can be an expensive fix and eventually lead to more repairs and how to do it right and with who in LA area
What parts to use
How much to pay for a TLC 60 1985 with good body no rust good interiors but blown HG
What else to do in order to have a Family road worthy Cruiser with out expending much Cash
Looking forward to learn and from all you..
Thanks
 
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