Annoying P0430 need to solve it. (1 Viewer)

[2001LC]

If your compression is 110 to 120 PSI. You've a bad engine. If he does get 110 to 120PSI when done with proper procedure. He must then due a wet test fast.

I'm sorry to say, your mechanic does not know what he's doing. All condition for a compression test I outline above, need adhering to.

Standard compression 192PSI or more. At sea level.
Minimum is 142PSI.
Difference 14PSI

I pull some parts off engine to get ready in advance. This way I can get spark plugs out faster. 30 to 40 minutes is okay for a good reading. But best is at 20 minutes. I can pull plugs, due a dry test and come back through and do wet test on all 8. In under 1 hour. That includes disconnecting fuel pump wire harness (under DS rear door near AHC rear globe)

 

[looking4lc]

If your compression is 110 to 120 PSI. You've a bad engine. If he does get 110 to 120PSI when done with proper procedure. He must then due a wet test fast.

I'm sorry to say, your mechanic does not know what he's doing. All condition for a compression test I outline above, need adhering to.

Standard compression 192PSI or more. At sea level.
Minimum is 142PSI.
Difference 14PSI

I pull some parts off engine to get ready in advance. This way I can get spark plugs out faster. 30 to 40 minutes is okay for a good reading. But best is at 20 minutes. I can pull plugs, due a dry test and come back through and do wet test on all 8. In under 1 hour. That includes disconnecting fuel pump wire harness (under DS rear door near AHC rear globe)

i have stated before that those kind of test are hard to find and if they are available, not professionally done.

anyway, owning the LX since 2014 (with 75K ODO) with 80% maintenance done by me and driving 500 Miles per week since 2015 till today, i know the engine in very good shape with 340K miles. not burning a bit of oil, has very nice acceleration. in fact it is in same shape as the first day i picked it up with just few wears. i am honestly not worried about this part.

i will be replacing intake gasket with fan clutch and few other maintenance in couple months.
i am just watching closely now for any pending codes and will update here.

 

[Thunder90]

Timely. My rig just threw this code. Both sides - 0430 bank 2 x2 and 0420 bank 1.
Replaced 02s 3 yrs ago, but had a coolant leak last month and replaced the radiator.
Due to this thread, I just ordered a new gas cap and a couple O2s...

Gas cap solved mine.

 

[2001LC]

@Thunder90 I see you had both CATs throw DTC's. I also see you replaced radiator and O2. You also have a non VVT 03. So was just gas cap was last to try, than CEL went off and DTC cleared?

 

[looking4lc]

so today i have done the 1- compression test = more than 100 psi on all cylinder (Plugs and coil boots are in good shape)
2- Swapped O2 sensors
3- checked for exhaust leak and there is none as per exhaust specialist and couple mechanics
4- gone to couple places to check coolant leak, there is none visible, though i havent missed any in the past 2 months (guess just in hot summer i lose few ounces).
5- mechanic checked intake manifold, he says no sigh of leak but i wouldn't know till it's opened
6- general checks for leaks hoses- none is found.
7- since i couldnt find gas cap yet, i cleaned my current one and lightly greased the seal.

so now i will see if the code comes back with p0430 or not.
btw, once done the compression test, i started the car, check engine was there, then after swapping O2 sensor, light has gone.

will post back any findings.

Code p0430 is on again after all above.

 

[Julian Stead]

Swap the CAT’s over...

B1S2 voltage looks low, it is steady so just ignore for now...
B2S2 is more so in the correct voltage range but is fluctuating slightly, this shows that the CAT has lost some efficiency..

with low compression across all cylinders it might be worth checking valve timing...

If you do drop the CAT’s off, it might be worth doing a compression test with them removed...

I changed my CAT’s due to emissions as they do lose efficiency over time, no real drama...Failed Smog Test(uk MOT check) 2 years ago.

If the CAT is dead nothing can repair it, I would make sure everything else is correct before replacing I.E compression....

There are a lot of land cruisers in the UK that run on LPG, they nearly all end up suffering from low compression, the owner thinks it is perfectly fine because they know no different, they run fine but suffer with a lack of power, not noticeable until they drive another that hasn’t been converted(mine)...It is why I would never run on lpg with a Toyota, I don’t care how much money it saves...


Sorry to not be more helpful but the CAT is a cause and effect problem, not something you can easily diagnose over the Internet...

A good way to find out how well your engine is performing is to use a vacuum gauge, a forgotten tool these days...

 

[2001LC]

Swap the CAT’s over...

B1S2 voltage looks low, it is steady so just ignore for now...
B2S2 is more so in the correct voltage range but is fluctuating slightly, this shows that the CAT has lost some efficiency..

with low compression across all cylinders it might be worth checking valve timing...

If you do drop the CAT’s off, it might be worth doing a compression test with them removed...

I changed my CAT’s due to emissions as they do loss efficiency over time, no real drama...Failed Smog Test(uk MOT check) 2 years ago.

If the CAT is dead nothing can repair it, I would make sure everything else is correct before replacing I.E compression....

There are a lot of land cruisers in the UK that run on LPG, they nearly all end up suffering from low compression, the owner thinks it is perfectly fine because they know no different, they run fine but suffer with a lack of power, not noticeable until they drive another that hasn’t been converted(mine)...It is why I would never run on lpg with a Toyota, I don’t care how much money it saves...


Sorry to not be more helpful but the CAT is a cause and effect problem, not something you can easily diagnose over the Internet...

A good way to find out how well your engine is performing is to use a vacuum gauge, a forgotten tool these days...

I'm suspect his P0430 coming and going, may be at these times: "But that yet to be confirmed." Can you confirm @looking4lc ?
A) Going away on long HWY drives.
B) Coming back on lower RPM driving.

Good to have you abroad @Julian Stead.

I've one now that had P0420 & P0430. I found one CAT looks clogged ( I did not see other), pictured early in this thread, post #18.
The AI secondary switches (bk 1 & 2) also throwing a stuck closed DTC. I suspect this is from, exhaust gasses backing up into heads, due to clogged CAT.

But can't quite get my head around why these CATs clogged. I assume it was reasonably well tuned 4.7l VVT, being Dealership maintained w/ only 150K miles. I do know the fuel pressure or flow was weak. Due to fuel pump issue in low speed mode. I suspect many 06 & 07 have a weak fuel pump. This may be due to new smaller Denso fuel pump introduced in May 2005 (in USA market).

I've a thought, on why CAT's clogged! But before I say anything, I'd like to hear your thought?

Julian can you give any explanation why low fuel pressure or flow, would cause fouling to the extent of clogging CATs?

 

[Julian Stead]

I would say heat is the biggest cause for clogged CAT’s, they deform.. A low fuel pressure would cause the engine to run hotter and could Damage your AI switches, now I haven’t worked on a vehicle with an Air Pump, the emission laws didn’t require them in the uk.

So a lean mixture would cause your combustion chambers to run hot, I don’t think this in itself would cause damage to your CAT but it could damage your upstream oxy sensor or just confuse it if the fuel pressure is erratic.

So, I would look for a reason why there could’ve been unburnt fuel entering your CAT..

Erratic fuel pressure could be the cause of it all, it would confuse the system.

 

[looking4lc]

Swap the CAT’s over...

B1S2 voltage looks low, it is steady so just ignore for now...
B2S2 is more so in the correct voltage range but is fluctuating slightly, this shows that the CAT has lost some efficiency..

with low compression across all cylinders it might be worth checking valve timing...

If you do drop the CAT’s off, it might be worth doing a compression test with them removed...

I changed my CAT’s due to emissions as they do lose efficiency over time, no real drama...Failed Smog Test(uk MOT check) 2 years ago.

If the CAT is dead nothing can repair it, I would make sure everything else is correct before replacing I.E compression....

There are a lot of land cruisers in the UK that run on LPG, they nearly all end up suffering from low compression, the owner thinks it is perfectly fine because they know no different, they run fine but suffer with a lack of power, not noticeable until they drive another that hasn’t been converted(mine)...It is why I would never run on lpg with a Toyota, I don’t care how much money it saves...


Sorry to not be more helpful but the CAT is a cause and effect problem, not something you can easily diagnose over the Internet...

A good way to find out how well your engine is performing is to use a vacuum gauge, a forgotten tool these days...

I will replace it once I confirm the issue IS actually the cat itself.
can you tell me what the voltage should be for o2 sensors?
Here is the reading after swapping o2s.

 

[looking4lc]

Maybe a dumb question : If the bank1 is low in voltage, why does it throw code for bank2?

 

[Julian Stead]

The problem you have with bank 2 is that the voltage is fluctuating, on a traditional O2 sensor upstream of the CAT you would get a Sine Wave pattern bouncing between 0.1v to 0.9v, if the CAT is efficient the downstream sensor will flat line above 0.45v, now the flat line is important, the more it starts to resemble the upstream(Sine Wave pattern) the less efficient the CAT has become, if that makes sense...

if you go back to your original screen it provided you with a recording in graph form, you can see the sensor is slightly fluctuating, I cannot tell you what parameters are set before a fault code is flagged as I am sure it is different depending on local emission laws, but I can say a 100% efficient CAT will not fluctuate at all...

I said Ignore the low voltage for now on B1 because you do not have a fault code, why chase something that isn’t there, it might even be in the software....

what I would personally do is swap all sensors and the CATS over, Put B1S1, B1S2 and the CAT over to bank 2, a pretty simple job..If the fault changes bank, then swap just the sensors across and see if it changes anything...

 

[looking4lc]

I'm suspect his P0430 coming and going, may be at these times: "But that yet to be confirmed." Can you confirm @looking4lc ?
A) Going away on long HWY drives.
B) Coming back on lower RPM driving.

Good to have you abroad @Julian Stead.

I've one now that had P0420 & P0430. I found one CAT looks clogged ( I did not see other), pictured early in this thread, post #18.
The AI secondary switches (bk 1 & 2) also throwing a stuck closed DTC. I suspect this is from, exhaust gasses backing up into heads, due to clogged CAT.

But can't quite get my head around why these CATs clogged. I assume it was reasonably well tuned 4.7l VVT, being Dealership maintained w/ only 150K miles. I do know the fuel pressure or flow was weak. Due to fuel pump issue in low speed mode. I suspect many 06 & 07 have a weak fuel pump. This may be due to new smaller Denso fuel pump introduced in May 2005 (in USA market).

I've a thought, on why CAT's clogged! But before I say anything, I'd like to hear your thought?

Julian can you give any explanation why low fuel pressure or flow, would cause fouling to the extent of clogging CATs?

B- mostly pops up in city drive not highway.

Update: Last night was driving 250 Miles again and suddenly my LX started to splutter ( shaking then slowed down even when it was on a cruise) i had 1/4 tank and suddenly gas dropped to E then gas light went off- drove for 30 miles to next station and filled it up-then no issue. upon receiving home in the city, truck was not smooth, if i accelerate, it hesitate little then go.

fuel delivery issue i am assuming so i am replacing both fuel filter (its due) and fuel pump as well (3 years since last replaced) as PM.

 

[2001LC]

Did you stop and then have to restate engine after "splutter etc.?
You replaced Fuel Pump or had replaced by a shop?
Have you replace the gas cap yet?
Do or did you let your engine idle for long periods (5, 10, 20 or more minutes)?
Are battery cables (not just on post, but into wire harness bracket) free of white powders build up (resistance issue)?
You may also be getting bad gas. I would think in your area gas good but IDK. Any chance of this?
Are you checking coolant level by looking in radiator after 8 hour cool down?.
If you had to restart: Sounds like fuel starvation. If so, very likely you have a store DTC indication a lean condition. Did you check with tech stream?
Also where is pictures of CAT temps form tech stream at the various RPMs?
Where is the pictures of intake to head area you said you'd get and post?

If fuel pump replaced 3 years ago with OEM, it should not be bad. It is possible you just had a bad one installed 3 yrs ago. It's also possible you a resistance problem.

BTW: The seal on top of fuel tank, should also be replace at same time as fuel pump.

I know it's a lot of question. But this issue is one many have been trying to solve. It's a difficult one to do in the shop, and 10 times more difficult over the internet. Data and detail is only way you can even have a chance at getting this diagnosed. I've no doubt an new CAT will stop the P0430. But issue causing must be found first. The fuel pump may have been it. But you need to get a good compression test now. I suspect you've been loading up the CAT(s). Than your long HWY drives are clearing them somewhat. You may be good to go now. Only time will tell.

@Julian Stead made a good point. Many drive around with low compression and don't know it. Low compression does not mean bad oil rings or oil lose.

A good compression test is so important here. You need to learn how to do yourself. Then either you do, or teach your shop mechanic how too. I know you feel compression is fine and it may vary well be. But 110-120PSI done within 40 minutes of hot shut down is not Okay.

Condition of the spark plugs and coils are questionable also.

I would say heat is the biggest cause for clogged CAT’s, they deform.. A low fuel pressure would cause the engine to run hotter and could Damage your AI switches, now I haven’t worked on a vehicle with an Air Pump, the emission laws didn’t require them in the uk.

So a lean mixture would cause your combustion chambers to run hot, I don’t think this in itself would cause damage to your CAT but it could damage your upstream oxy sensor or just confuse it if the fuel pressure is erratic.

So, I would look for a reason why there could’ve been unburnt fuel entering your CAT..

Erratic fuel pressure could be the cause of it all, it would confuse the system.

The why of a CAT going bad with weak fuel pump, is something I'm looking into now!

My thinking is somewhat along same lines as you. I'm really stabbing in the dark. But to summarize below:
Weak fuel pump is causing a rich condition by way of EUC correcting for lean. That this leads to clogged CATs.

Here's my thinking: The ECM confused, and corrected for lean condition of weak fuel pump. The amount of air intake (oxygen), would be as designed, This assumes no vacuum leaks and good air filter. ECM would add fuel, by way of setting long term fuel trims for a base-line of increased fuel (LTFT positive %). As ECM worked to reach the goal of 14.7:1 stoichiometric (air fuel mixture).

Running cooler/"rich" can give a CAT code, as can running cold due to bad thermostat. It can also clog the CATs. Rich condition foul spark plugs and cylinder heads build up carbon & gunk. The EUC works to correcting for rich condition now, due to poor spark.

Prolonged idling would make clogging of CATs, happen even sooner.

I've one I'm working on now:

History showed: both P0420 & P0430 along with AI secondary switches BK 1 & Bk 2 stuck closed.

I found fuel pump was fault for lean condition and engine stall. This may have been accentuated over time; by battery cables & connecting harness having built up acid oxidation (increasing resistance to entire electrical system). Further history shows fuel cap was replaced. So someone at least "thought" it bad. It's replacement had no effect in stopping stall/lean condition, as was present afterwards.

I saw no signs of heat damage. Like excessive ceramic dust or broken up ceramic materiel between the forward and aft CATs or damage to ceramic honey comb like falling apart or discolored at rear of meterial.

The CAT bk1 did showed sign of clogging (post #18), but only at upstream on face. Back side of first CAT materiel was clean, so was secondary CAT. Note: With the VVT we've two CAT ceramic honeycombs separated, in each side with O2 between them. They also have and A/F (not O2) sensor upstream.

I replaced bk 1 CAT, and stop the P0420 from returning, so far. But kept seeing bk 2 CAT (P0430) coming back over time. I had tried many things in attempt to clear CAT in BK 1 on (P0420). Like 44k, Cataclean, seafoam fogger even sprayed seafoan directly into CAT through A/F port and did many high RPM (5K RPM for 5 to 10 minutes) HWY drives to burn out valves, cylinder heads and CATs of carbon and gunk.

I ran a camera into A/F port (b1s1), to see how upstream face of CAT looked (first 3 pictures in post #18). I though perhaps all my efforts to clean CATs, had cleared gunk from fuel system, intake and cylinders. Dumping it all on CAT faster than it could burn off, thus re clogging the relatively new CAT on BK 2. Turns out that was not the case. CAT bk2 looked clean when scoped. It was just very poorly installed. So it's safe to assume, the gunk on face of CAT bk1 was there before I first saw the vehicle or added any cleaners. So I can assume CAT BK 2 was a clogged condition also, prior to it's replacement. I found other signs CATs clogged. One such, is both secondary AI switches stuck closed.

With the USA introduction of the 100 series VVT in May 2005 production. They introduced the VVT heads and AI system. Additionally they made many other variation. Some refinements for performance some for environmental reasons.

The AI secondary switches, ride on-top of rear water by-pass joint. The primary switch rides in valley just in front of starter, which this one gets the hottest (I've no issues pending or active with it). I've seen both primary and secondary switch from severely overheated engine. That blew the engine warping the heads, melted intake manifold and plastic of VVT cam and knock sensors. Those switch appear okay (I'll test one day). These secondary switch have air tubes that blows air into exhaust. By way of a tube that runs to an addition smaller exhaust port, just above each main exhaust port on heads. They (secondary switches) run open for about 90 seconds with a blower fan blowing air (oxygen) into exhaust, during cold start, to heat CAT up faster. To see both go bad with two clogged CATs, indicates a relationship.
That relation is likely when open the first 90 second, back pressure from exhaust due to clogged CAT, exceed AI blower fan pressure. So the exhaust may flow into switch, gummy them up. I'll be pulling one secondary switch when I get a chance. I expect to find gunk & carbon in it.

 

[looking4lc]

Did you stop and then have to restate engine after "splutter etc.?
yes when I stopped at the gas station
You replaced Fuel Pump or had replaced by a shop?
I did in 2015 (dense fuel pump) not oem
Have you replace the gas cap yet?
No, I couldn't find it yet but I am in search for it
Do or did you let your engine idle for long periods (5, 10, 20 or more minutes)?
it happened while I was driving around 80mph. spluttered and it slowed down, I then cruised 65mph till next gas station
Are battery cables (not just on post, but into wire harness bracket) free of white powders build up (resistance issue)?
yes they are free of powder buildup.
You may also be getting bad gas. I would think in your area gas good but IDK. Any chance of this?
Very possible as it happened once before, 2 years ago, when I had half tank then fuel gage dropped to E then back to half.
Are you checking coolant level by looking in radiator after 8 hour cool down?.
I did that last week yes and its very red and cleaned, but I lose some from the refill jug about 2 ounces
If you had to restart: Sounds like fuel starvation. If so, very likely you have a store DTC indication a lean condition. Did you check with tech stream? No but no check engine lighted popped up
Also where is pictures of CAT temps form tech stream at the various RPMs?
is there a cat temp in Techstream? I did measured temperature with infrared thermo after driving couple hours on the highway but not sure if I did it right. Passenger Side Cat was measured around 400F(- +).Driver Side Cat was measured 360F. again I need to do it right.
Where is the pictures of intake to head area you said you'd get and post?
Next post
If fuel pump replaced 3 years ago with OEM, it should not be bad. It is possible you just had a bad one installed 3 yrs ago. It's also possible you a resistance problem. Not OEM. I replaced it with Denso, very possible is not even original Denso as well (corrupted parts market here) but I check the OEM is around 150$ and the one I got is around 65$

BTW: The seal on top of fuel tank, should also be replace at same time as fuel pump.
I don't remember replacing it
I know it's a lot of question. But this issue is one many have been try to solve. It's a difficult one to do in the shop, and 10 times more difficult over the internet. Data and detail is only way you can even have a chance at getting this diagnosed. I've no doubt an new CAT will stop the P0430. But issue causing must be found first. The fuel pump may have been it. But you need to get a good compression test now. I suspect you've been loading up the CAT(s). Than your long HWY drives are clearing them somewhat. You may be good to go now. Only time will tell.

@Julian Stead made a good point. Many drive around with low compression and don't know it. Low compression does not mean bad oil rings or oil lose.

A good compression test is so important here. You need to learn how to do yourself. Then either you do, or teach your shop mechanic how too. I know you feel compression is fine and it may vary well be. But 110-120PSI done within 40 minutes of hot shut down is not Okay. I will try to find a better mechanic for the compression test when I get a chance

Condition of the spark plugs and coils are questionable also. plugs have 50K on them and they are okay( didn't do the gap) and coils are in good condition with new boots on all of them.

The why of a CAT going bad with weak fuel pump, is something I'm looking into now!

My thinking is somewhat along same lines as you. I'm really stabbing in the dark. But to summarize below:
Weak fuel pump is causing a rich condition by way of EUC correcting for lean. That this leads to clogged CATs.

Here's my thinking: The ECM confused, and corrected for lean condition of weak fuel pump. The amount of air intake (oxygen), would be as designed, This assumes no vacuum leaks and good air filter. ECM would add fuel, by way of setting long term fuel trims for a base-line of increased fuel (LTFT positive %). As ECM worked to reach the goal of 14.7:1 stoichiometric (air fuel mixture).

Running cooler/"rich" can give a CAT code, as can running cold due to bad thermostat. It can also clog the CATs. Rich condition foul spark plugs and cylinder heads build up carbon & gunk. The EUC works to correcting for rich condition now, due to poor spark.

Prolonged idling would make clogging of CATs, happen even sooner.

I've one I'm working on now:

History showed: both P0420 & P0430 along with AI secondary switches BK 1 & Bk 2 stuck closed.

I found fuel pump was fault for lean condition and engine stall. This may have been accentuated over time; by battery cables & connecting harness having built up acid oxidation (increasing resistance to entire electrical system). Further history shows fuel cap was replaced. So someone at least "thought" it bad. It's replacement had no effect in stopping stall/lean condition, as was present afterwards.

I saw no signs of heat damage. Like excessive ceramic dust or broken up ceramic materiel between the forward and aft CATs or damage to ceramic honey comb like falling apart or discolored at rear of meterial.

The CAT bk1 did showed sign of clogging (post #18), but only at upstream on face. Back side of first CAT materiel was clean, so was secondary CAT. Note: With the VVT we've two CAT ceramic honeycombs separated, in each side with O2 between them. They also have and A/F (not O2) sensor upstream.

I replaced bk 1 CAT, and stop the P0420 from returning, so far. But kept seeing bk 2 CAT (P0430) coming back over time. I had tried many things in attempt to clear CAT in BK 1 on (P0420). Like 44k, Cataclean, seafoam fogger even sprayed seafoan directly into CAT through A/F port and did many high RPM (5K RPM for 5 to 10 minutes) HWY drives to burn out valves, cylinder heads and CATs of carbon and gunk.

I ran a camera into A/F port (b1s1), to see how upstream face of CAT looked (first 3 pictures in post #18). I though perhaps all my efforts to clean CATs, had cleared gunk from fuel system, intake and cylinders. Dumping it all on CAT faster than it could burn off, thus re clogging the relatively new CAT on BK 2. Turns out that was not the case. CAT bk2 looked clean when scoped. It was just very poorly installed. So it's safe to assume, the gunk on face of CAT bk1 was there before I first saw the vehicle or added any cleaners. So I can assume CAT BK 2 was a clogged condition also, prior to it's replacement. I found other signs CATs clogged. One such, is both secondary AI switches stuck closed.

With the USA introduction of the 100 series VVT in May 2005 production. They introduced the VVT heads and AI system. Additionally they made many other variation. Some refinements for performance some for environmental reasons.

The AI secondary switches, ride on-top of rear water by-pass joint. The primary switch rides in valley just in front of starter, which this one gets the hottest (I've no issues pending or active with it). I've seen both primary and secondary switch from severely overheated engine. That blew the engine warping the heads, melted intake manifold and plastic of VVT cam and knock sensors. Those switch appear okay (I'll test one day). These secondary switch have air tubes that blows air into exhaust. By way of a tube that runs to an addition smaller exhaust port, just above each main exhaust port on heads. They (secondary switches) run open for about 90 seconds with a blower fan blowing air (oxygen) into exhaust, during cold start, to heat CAT up faster. To see both go bad with two clogged CATs, indicates a relationship.
That relation is likely when open the first 90 second, back pressure from exhaust due to clogged CAT, exceed AI blower fan pressure. So the exhaust may flow into switch, gummy them up. I'll be pulling one secondary switch when I get a chance. I expect to find gunk & carbon in it.

 

[looking4lc]

Hope it is clear

 

[looking4lc]

Others

 

[saucebox]

Fuel cap should be 77300-06040.

 

[looking4lc]

as I think about it now, code started to pop after I replaced the original fuel pump. specially when I was told at the store that FP was for "Camry" but it was same exact one I took off from the truck. just thinking about that and the possibility its not even original "denso", and poor quality, very possible the FP is not suitable for my truck. gas pressure could be different from 4 cylinders to v8, Voltage, the gas amount is pushing maybe less......etc

thoughts?

btw I just replaced fuel filter, it was very dirty

 

[saucebox]

as I think about it now, code started to pop after I replaced the original fuel pump. specially when I was told at the store that FP was for "Camry" but it was same exact one I took off from the truck. just thinking about that and the possibility its not even original "denso", and poor quality, very possible the FP is not suitable for my truck. gas pressure could be different from 4 cylinders to v8, Voltage, the gas amount is pushing maybe less......etc

thoughts?

btw I just replaced fuel filter, it was very dirty

I don't have the expertise to know if that will fix you up, but if it were me: I'd definitely be going in on the replacement with the correct pump and the seal.

Same one mentioned above:

BTW: The seal on top of fuel tank, should also be replace at same time as fuel pump.

 

[OEMGUY0720]

I ordered this, it says it’ll arrive next week.

Will update you with the results as soon as I install this. Worth the try.