Annoying P0430 need to solve it. (2 Viewers)

[2001LC]

as I think about it now, code started to pop after I replaced the original fuel pump. specially when I was told at the store that FP was for "Camry" but it was same exact one I took off from the truck. just thinking about that and the possibility its not even original "denso", and poor quality, very possible the FP is not suitable for my truck. gas pressure could be different from 4 cylinders to v8, Voltage, the gas amount is pushing maybe less......etc

thoughts?

btw I just replaced fuel filter, it was very dirty

How did you determine your fuel filter was dirty?

I don't see the signs of vacuum leak from intake gasket. The sign would be oil that sweeps pass the rubber intake gaskets creeping up the intake manifold and head covers This oil comes from PVC system. So provided your PVC system is working properly, we can rule that gasket out for now. This now points to area after BK 2 intake gasket. i.e. Fuel Injectors (FI), valves, rings, head gasket, pre O2 exhaust all of BK2.

Dirty fuel filter can certainly reduce fuel follow. I'd look for both BK 1 & 2 to have issue, with pre fuel rail fuel delivery issue. Like lean DTC's both banks or perhaps both CATS. But certainly possible for just one side to get CAT code (P0430).

In the USA we see issues with older gas station. Ground water seeps in their storage tanks. Some gas station put additives in storage tanks to absorb moisture rather than replace the tanks. These older tanks also tend to have sludge built up in them. This also gets in to our fuel system. We also have issues with corn alcohol (ethanol) mixed in the gas. This ethanol is damaging the seal of fuel injector, which can lead to vacuum leaks.

ASNU, out of the UK. The inventor and manufacture of FI injector testing and cleaning equipment. Said, the Middle East has issue with gasoline damaging Fuel Injectors. They found the Mid East fuel injectors tend to have more issue then elsewhere on the Continent. This is reportedly due to chemicals or refining process.

But the common issue we see world wide is dirty fuel. A dirty fuel injector may have a solid stream of gasoline, rather than good atomization. This condition is one in which raw fuel dumps into CAT, not good.

The fact the code is coming and going is sign CAT not dead. Could be loading up, than clearing on long HWY drives. Clogged fuel injector(s) could do this, as could it's seals leaking (vacuum leak).

The replacement fuel pump I've seen 950-0210. In short term test has worked fine. Longer term is IDK
I was thinking was from a Camry. But just did google search and that is not what I'm seeing.

When I google the PN #950-0210. I see fitment: from 05-14 in various Tundra, Tacoma, Sequoia, Pre Runner, X-Runner. It appears to be the same Denso that comes from factory in 100 series in size, ports, etc. Just some numbers on it are different.

This Factory 100 series (2007). Is a Denso fuel pump 291000-0021. The Denso and 291000- are cast in the top. Other numbers appear etched.

Someone posted this on mud. OEM has the same - 0021. All have the 291000-, than other numbers are different.

This is believed to be a good replacement, saving hundreds over the 100 series Toyota OEM. I'd like to pickup a OEM from Toyota to compare some day. I suspect what I'll find is this same replacement pump.

 

[looking4lc]

The fluid came out of the filter was filthy, i dropped some on the ground and left a black stain, then i tried to clean it with water to see what comes out. again was brownish color (it had 160K) i will do it sooner than that.

in few months, i will be doing some maintenance, fan clutch, sparks, V belt and i will include injectors cleaning as well.

FP i replaced #denso 23220-0H072, it had different PN, maybe middle east PN i dunno.

i tried to google it and get more info,

ERA EC

ERA S.r.l. – Italy. Electrical spare parts for vehicles (European, Korean, Japanese) and trucks: ignition coils, sensors, EGRV, column switches, fuel pumps, starters and alternators, pulleys, starter drives, solenoids

ecom.eraspares.com

do you think this is compatible with lx470? though i dont have any problem from it yet, should i replace it to be in safe side?

 

[2001LC]

I've replaced filter, with as much as 550k KM (350K Miles) and not seen murky (filthy) fuel come out. In fact the fuel that came out looked fine. Your getting bad gas!

First thing I'd do is find out which gas station selling bad gas. Don't buy it anymore. Never fill up when you see a gas tanker tuck pumping gas into gas station storage tanks. They stir up sediment.

The typical sign fuel pump is bad. Is when it gets hot, after climbing a long hill. One in which you RPM are over ~3K. The higher RPM puts fuel pump in high speed. Then as you let off gas pedal to descend the hill/mountain, the fuel pump drops to low speed. At that moment, the engine dies.

The fuel pump you link above is likely Chinese made junk. I would not buy that. The Toyota 950-0210 I see it was @jerryb that posted it. He made a comment that he used one for 15K miles. Based on your dirty fuel filter and that you used a fuel pump you're concerned being of less out put. I would replace the fuel pump. Best will be the Land Cruiser 23220-50160 which is ~$150 more. It has the proper sock (you'll likely need) and cage. This and a new seal on top of gas tank to pump assembly. Also it would be great if you took a picture of the pump itself and posted it. Then we can all see if difference in the PN#.

In the mean time I'd be running fuel cleaners in the gas. Buy only top tier gas, with cleaning agents, from newer gas station.

The fact your P0430 is going off after long drive (next morning). I take as a sign the CAT is still savable.

 

[2001LC]

Also I would only use OEM:
Additionally Fuel filter, OEM only.
New 23291-41010 INSULATOR, INJECTOR VIBRATION for fuel injectors. This one goes into intake manifold and fuel injector fits in it. You'll need to clean the top of your engine spotless before pulling the fuel rails. Then you'll need to clean the fuel injector ports of/in intake manifold that the insulator fits in. Very import that nothing falls into this port. Any sand or grit falling in, may damage your intake valves, cylinder walls or piston rings.

 

[looking4lc]

I've replaced filter, with as much as 550k KM (350K Miles) and not seen murky (filthy) fuel come out. In fact the fuel that came out looked fine. Your getting bad gas!

First thing I'd do is find out which gas station selling bad gas. Don't buy it anymore. Never fill up when you see a gas tanker tuck pumping gas into gas station storage tanks. They stir up sediment.

The typical sign fuel pump is bad. Is when it gets hot, after climbing a long hill. One in which you RPM are over ~3K. The higher RPM puts fuel pump in high speed. Then as you let off gas pedal to descend the hill/mountain, the fuel pump drops to low speed. At that moment, the engine dies.

The fuel pump you link above is likely Chinese made junk. I would not buy that. The Toyota 950-0210 I see it was @jerryb that posted it. He made a comment that he used one for 15K miles. Based on your dirty fuel filter and that you used a fuel pump you're concerned being of less out put. I would replace the fuel pump. Best will be the Land Cruiser 23220-50160 which is ~$150 more. It has the proper sock (you'll likely need) and cage. This and a new seal on top of gas tank to pump assembly. Also it would be great if you took a picture of the pump itself and posted it. Then we can all see if difference in the PN#.

In the mean time I'd be running fuel cleaners in the gas. Buy only top tier gas, with cleaning agents, from newer gas station.

The fact your P0430 is going off after long drive (next morning). I take as a sign the CAT is still savable.

Thank you Paul.
I usually fill in new gas stations, but bad gas is inevitable here coz of the source is one.
I want to clarify that the website I posted is not what I purchased, it just has same PN to one I got from Denso with part number: denso 23220-0H072. the link shows what "used in vehicle" and not stated LX470, Land cruiser or even V8 engines. knowing that, I wonder if I should replace it with new Denso one.

 

[2001LC]

Yes I would replace fuel pump.
Re-post:
Best will be the Land Cruiser 23220-50160 which is ~$150 more. It has the proper sock (you'll likely need) and cage. This and a new seal on top of gas tank to pump assembly. Also it would be great if you took a picture of the pump itself and posted it. Then we can all see if difference in the PN#.

I had know idea until yesterday, of Mid East fuel problems. If you keep getting bad gas. Then keep changing the fuel filter and running cleaners like 44K, Chevron Techron, etc...

But at minimum look for gas station with newer storage tanks.

We don't know this P0430 is a fuel problems. But the clues are pointing in this direction. Regardless with a fuel filter that dirty, you've a fuel problem. Speak with Contact ASNU Injectors ask them what they see in your area. Ask also what he recommends.

 

[2001LC]

I ordered this, it says it’ll arrive next week.
View attachment 2142438

Will update you with the results as soon as I install this. Worth the try.

Not worth a try IMHO, except to as temp fix to pass emission test.
I'm surprised after all you've done to get your upstream air/ fuel in proper working order. That you're now going to trick the ECM MAP into thinking the CAT is operating within spec.

I would encourage you get a exhaust system pre-CAT pressure test. Along with scoping the upstream face of CAT with a $20 drain pipe snake camera. Run it into A/F senor port, and film the upstream face of CAT ceramic honey comb. If your CAT(s) is/are clogged. You'll have addition long term issues, if not corrected.

IDK how much the ECU MAP relies on the O2 for fuel adjustments, if or at all. So I can't say if using these spark plug extenders on the O2 is not without it's risk.

Where I'm big on OEM parts. No real need for OEM in CAT IMHO. They just for reducing pollution. But the A/F and O2 are a vital sensor for fuel air ratio.

For ~$600 (high end replacements) replace both CATs.

@looking4lc has a good chance CAT is still okay. I say this because code is coming and going without being cleared. After he gets his air/fuel issues sorted. He may have issue with A/F or O2 sensors. I say this, because his mechanic said "compression okay". One not seeing, that's not the case, and using improper procedure. May have also touch the sensors probes with his fingers (if he's then one that swap them).

But in your case if IIRC. Your codes are not clearing on their own. You must clear and they come back.

 

[OEMGUY0720]

Not worth a try IMHO, except to as temp fix to pass emission test.
I'm surprised after all you've done to get your upstream air/ fuel in proper working order. That you're now going to trick the ECM MAP into thinking the CAT is operating within spec.

I would encourage you get a exhaust system pre-CAT pressure test. Along with scoping the upstream face of CAT with a $20 drain pipe snake camera. Run it into A/F senor port, and film the upstream face of CAT ceramic honey comb. If your CAT(s) is/are clogged. You'll have addition long term issues, if not corrected.

IDK how much the ECU MAP relies on the O2 for fuel adjustments, if or at all. So I can't say if using these spark plug extenders on the O2 is not without it's risk.

Where I'm big on OEM parts. No real need for OEM in CAT IMHO. They just for reducing pollution. But the A/F and O2 are a vital sensor for fuel air ratio.

For ~$600 (high end replacements) replace both CATs.

@looking4lc has a good chance CAT is still okay. I say this because code is coming and going without being cleared. After he gets his air/fuel issues sorted. He may have issue with A/F or O2 sensors. I say this, because his mechanic said "compression okay". One not seeing, that's not the case, and using improper procedure. May have also touch the sensors probes with his fingers (if he's then one that swap them).

But in your case if IIRC. Your codes are not clearing on their own. You must clear and they come back.

Yeah I know that this won’t solve the problem but rather it will just cheat the ecu. I just want to rid the annoying CEL until i get the budget for new cats.

 

[2001LC]

While saving and installing the O2 extenders. Would be good time to get pictures of CATs (all 4 sides) and a pressure test.

Since you had the fuel pump stall issue. This would be very valuable data. My bet your CATs are clogged.

 

[Julian Stead]

A vacuum gauge will diagnose restrictions in the exhaust...I use a mityvac, they can even bleed your brakes...

www.youtube.com/watch?v=d-jp1IIJVVk

 

[looking4lc]

little update:

After replacing fuel filter, cleaning MAF and TB, no pending code yet and I see some difference in B1 and B2 Voltages.
I can see what @Julian Stead said about B2 sensor moving up and down. at least the Voltage is close to B1 and B2S2 has some moving between .64 to .74

@Julian Stead do you see difference in pic below to the earlier one. some changes, improvement?

 

[looking4lc]

Before

 

[looking4lc]

Just tested now

 

[Julian Stead]

The voltage and the small amount of switching(moving up and down) is good, nothing to worry about, what is good to see is that your B1S2 is now within spec....If that amount of switching brings up a fault code in the US I would be surprised.

All looks good at the moment, hope it stays clear.

 

[looking4lc]

The voltage and the small amount of switching(moving up and down) is good, nothing to worry about, what is good to see is that your B1S2 is now within spec....If that amount of switching brings up a fault code in the US I would be surprised.

All looks good at the moment, hope it stays clear.

thank you. I guess I had fuel issue, I will be looking at replacing Fuel pump in the near future too.

 

[Julian Stead]

for the future, you can take the Temps across the CAT, the gases should be hotter exiting the CAT, use the good CAT for reference...

 

[looking4lc]

for the future, you can take the Temps across the CAT, the gases should be hotter exiting the CAT, use the good CAT for reference...

how do I do that?

 

[2001LC]

Interesting that much change with a filter replacement.

Beside reading CAT temp physically with an IR temp gun. You can read in Tech stream. That was test I was asking for. A cool test in tech stream is change fuel injectors from rich to lean and watching A/F and O2s change

 

[2001LC]

One more trick, I can't do with my the cheap $20 tech stream mini cable.

It's possible to turn off one fuel injector at a time. This can give valuable clues as to health of injector, coils, spark plugs, valves and or compression rings.

@Julian Stead do you know what tool it takes to do this?

 

[looking4lc]

Interesting that much change with a filter replacement.

Beside reading CAT temp physically with an IR temp gun. You can read in Tech stream. That was test I was asking for. A cool test in tech stream is change fuel injectors from rich to lean and watching A/F and O2s change

if you can guide me on how its done, I would do it.