And I just can't get enough... My new 76 FJ40... (1 Viewer)

[Splangy]

I wouldn't put POR-15 on that tub! POr-15 is for painting over RUST! You have a beautifully prepped tub. It deserves better than POR-15! Also, POR-15 will require more work and possibly more money since it'll need to be primed over before top-coating.

Invest in a good epoxy primer and you'll get much better results.

Some filler for the pits... This is gonna get some POR and Primer, then raptor on top. Should never rust again...

 

[thecrazygreek]

I wouldn't put POR-15 on that tub! POr-15 is for painting over RUST! You have a beautifully prepped tub. It deserves better than POR-15! Also, POR-15 will require more work and possibly more money since it'll need to be primed over before top-coating.

Invest in a good epoxy primer and you'll get much better results.

I have Epoxy primer I will be shooting here in the next couple days. You may be right on the POR... I shall ponder further...

As far as the color choice, the T-1028 Spring Green is a bit risky, but is a color me and the chose. I think its gonna kick arse...

It will be sporting the white OEM 79+ steelies (wagons) with BFG 33 x 10.50 MT KM2's. That along with the HFS 4" lift, I think that combo should look (and handle) good.

I have got to get the paint flowing before it turns into an ice age around here...

 

[sblesse]

If you still have the tires and wheels let me know. I'd probably be interested. Sam

 

[GarageRat]

I think the spring green will look good! One of my favorite factory colors, I'm going with a similar shade on my crawler.

 

[cjgoode]

I used the Master Series Silver on the underside of my body, and will use on the frame
MasterSeries Silver
Never used it before, but giving it a try. por15 requires so much prep work to the metal it is not funny. And if 1 drop of sweat hits the paint can they say to throw it all out. You might want one of these rust cover type products for your frame if you are not going to blast it, but with your body already blasted clean up the surface rust and epoxy primer it like splangly said.

 

[Blue77FJ40]

You might want to put a front bumper on before wheeling it hard. I've heard that a Saginaw box can tweak the frame horn if unsupported by a bumper>...

In addition, now would be a good time to sleeve that cutout of the front crossmember to regain structural integrity. John Smith's saginaw steering writeup shows this.

Best of luck with your nice find.

 

[thecrazygreek]

In addition, now would be a good time to sleeve that cutout of the front crossmember to regain structural integrity. John Smith's saginaw steering writeup shows this.

Best of luck with your nice find.

Thanks,

That area actually is WAY OVER Built. I know you cant see it from the outside but there is a 3 way truss type re-enforcement in there. Actually I think its over-built, but I like it...

sblesse, I sent you a PM on the Wheels and tires...

 

[thecrazygreek]

Went over the entire tub last night, getting ready for primer.

Added some filler here and there to smoth things out, then sanded it all back, then added more and sanded, then one final time. Everything seems to be pretty smooth, however I am not smoothing things out like spot welds etc. I like the "natural" look, besides it's a LandCruiser...

I am going to forego the POR and shoot straight epoxy primer on the bare steel. It's going to get two coats before initial sanding, then a third and a final block. Going to shoot for tonight for those first two coats and let dry overnight. Also going to have to prep the garage for painting which takes longer than actually doing the paintwork.

Should have some pics of the primer up later tonight. (unless I just decide to screw it and have a instead).

 

[My wife said no FJ!]

I like your new paint plan

 

[USMC75FJ40PA]

All that work - Beautiful job. What you going to do for rust in the blind holes and frame interior, Use that eastwood stuff with the tube? Or, do you have access to some sort of blaster that will get all the way through for media & paint?

 

[thecrazygreek]

All that work - Beautiful job. What you going to do for rust in the blind holes and frame interior, Use that eastwood stuff with the tube? Or, do you have access to some sort of blaster that will get all the way through for media & paint?

I used a 300 degree pressure washer with a special tube to get the interior of the frame. Then I soaked it in Ospho. It is hard to get in there even with sandblasting, but I think I did a good job of killing the rust. Then I sprayed POR "all up in there".

It was a messy time consuming PITA...

 

[thecrazygreek]

Some Updates Primer sealer applied

Been busy at work on this thing lately. It's amazing how much you can get done if you just get some real time on it.

Got the topside ready for primer, and laid 3 coats (epoxy) down with sanding between each coat with 100, then 220 on the third coat.

Flipped the tub and applies 2 coats under there. Then broke out the Raptor Black liner and undercoated the tub directly on the primer.

Taped up the whole lined area underneath and flipped her back upright.

Went over the tub as best as I could see, and did a little filler here and there, then sanded, sanded, and sanded some more.

Finally a light 320 sanding, and a coat of Primer sealer in a green color. This is NOT close to Spring Green but will help in coverage when the paint gets applied.

Here are some pics of just before I applied the primer on the underside. Still nice bare metal. This tub is in great shape.

 

[thecrazygreek]

Primer Sealer shots

Here is the Green colored primer sealer. This will really help in getting the color down. Less coats will be needed, and the color should really pop!
The light makes the colors look different in each pic, but the best representation of the real color is the first of these pics.

 

[dx379]

Subscribed

Jonny

 

[78Cruzr]

Nice work and great information... subscribed!

 

[thecrazygreek]

Thanks...

I am hoping to get some paint laid down this weekend. Once the tub is painted and cleared, I will wet sand and buff. Then re-attach it to the chassis. From there it's re-conditioning and installing all the bits.

I will start with the firewall inside - out.

Can anyone recomend a proceedure to putting things back on. I just do what "feels" right. But if there is a prefered method, or better way, I would like to hear about it!

 

[caper]

good job, that tub is in such great shape it gives me wood. subscribed........

 

[charboucher]

man that thing is sooo clean. nice rig

 

[toyman317]

Looking forward to seeing how this comes out.

 

[thecrazygreek]

Paint is LAID...

OK, got some real time on the cruiser today / tonight.

Went over the sealer and 600 wet sanded any imperfecctions.

Then went ahead and laid on the color. I'm using a Valspar Product, a 999 c99 Base, with a AM Tec Glamour Clearcoat system on top. The base really lays on nice and has a high solids count. I put three coats of base, but it covered in two. Each coat has a flash time of only 10 - 15 minutes!

Then I applied 3 coats of the clear. That went on nicely as I layed down some med - Wet coats.

So tomorrow I will do my initial 800 Wet sand, then 1500, then 2000 if needed. 1500 should be good enough tho.

Pics make the color look strange. The second pic is the closest, and its the one showing the clearcoat applied.

Also, I will apply the Raptor Tintable Bedliner in the next couple days.

After that I'll step back have a beer, and contimplate my next move. Which should be getting the firewall back together.