Builds An Accidental Frame Off.................. (7 Viewers)
- Thread starter rkymtnflyfisher
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
The back of the can suggest that it can mess up undercoatings and paint.
It looks like water got in there and froze, popped it off, may be other spots, scrape around with putty knife and see, flake em off and hit with spray can undercoate or just paint it, IMO.
Cover your hair, it sucks when that stuff gets in yer eyes at night.
Cover your hair, it sucks when that stuff gets in yer eyes at night.
rkymtnflyfisher
Trout Bum
- Thread starter
- #2,804
That's what I have been thinking.
I did use a metal prep before I laid down the primer though, I guess it needed something more.
pb4ugo
SILVER Star
It appears there's no adhesion at all. I'm no body or paint expert by any means. The metal needs to be sanded per the primers instruction sheet. On plain steel you have to knock down mill scale and use the proper grit for adhesion.
rkymtnflyfisher
Trout Bum
- Thread starter
- #2,806
I agree 100%.
And I'm also about 99% sure I prepped the metal per the instructions for the epoxy primer, from SPI. I even have their metal wax and grease remover that I used prior to shooting primer.
If I remember correctly I used the Metal Blast product from Rust Bullet to prep, and then the SPI wax and grease remover.
Being a glorified amateur at anything resembling body work I tried to be meticulous about the prep.
rkymtnflyfisher
Trout Bum
- Thread starter
- #2,807
After reading the tech sheet from SPI, I may not have used the Metal Blast from Rust Bullet before I shot primer. I know I used the Wax and Grease Remover from SPI though.
Now the question is how much did I scuff the bare metal, and with what grit sandpaper, or did I use a coarse scotchbrite pad.
I'll have to take a closer look at the exposed metal now to see if I can see any kind of sanding profile, or pattern.
Now the question is how much did I scuff the bare metal, and with what grit sandpaper, or did I use a coarse scotchbrite pad.
I'll have to take a closer look at the exposed metal now to see if I can see any kind of sanding profile, or pattern.
What about Ketchum/Hailey?
Skreddy
SILVER Star
If you know of a job in my niche field…. My youngest daughter is Hailey, spelling isn’t a coincidence.
It never appears like that from the factory. Look under the master cylinders, perfect paint strip, no sanding. Maybe Fluid Film is made from recycled DOT3?
rkymtnflyfisher
Trout Bum
- Thread starter
- #2,811
I'm still not buying into the FF having caused that paint to fail. Reading through the FF tech sheets and SDS I'm not seeing anything that causes me concern. Plus that spot I have never really saturated with FF because it's not a seam or a susceptible area prone to rust. I use a can on half of the rear sill and a rear wheel well alone, if the FF was the culprit here I would have huge issues in the rear of the tub.
I also rub FF on the paint around the doors and parts of the tub that have rock chips, bare metal areas, if the FF was a contributing factor I'd think there would be paint failures in these areas.
At the end of the day I think it was piss poor paint prep. If you'll remember correctly I was under the gun getting ready to move when I was at the painting stage.
I think it’s a small price to pay to live where you are now! You did the best you could under the circumstances. I can’t blame you even if you did cut any corners.
rkymtnflyfisher
Trout Bum
- Thread starter
- #2,813
It's a rough life!
I knew I cut myself short on some things that I wanted to improve on when I had the tub off, but I really don't feel like I took any shortcuts for the sake of getting it done quickly.
I checked my experiments with Fluid Film. Everything also checks out, wheelbarrow, hub cap with some kind of liner on rust. Plus the factory paint on my axle seems to not mind it. So, it remains in the arsenal.
I would degrease, but not actually cut into any mill scale by sanding or media blasing. Mill scale is corrosion resistant itself, so it is protecting what is underneath, and not impossible to get something to adhere to. I'd rather the paint fail, than the steel under it, but, that probably isn't the reality of the auto body industry. Steel has complex crystals, and when you attack a little you are affecting quite a bit of other material.
Maybe if the cold weather is making things flexible stuff stiffen up; could it be like dry ice removing the tar insulator from the floorboard? The enormous flakes puzzles me.
I would degrease, but not actually cut into any mill scale by sanding or media blasing. Mill scale is corrosion resistant itself, so it is protecting what is underneath, and not impossible to get something to adhere to. I'd rather the paint fail, than the steel under it, but, that probably isn't the reality of the auto body industry. Steel has complex crystals, and when you attack a little you are affecting quite a bit of other material.
Maybe if the cold weather is making things flexible stuff stiffen up; could it be like dry ice removing the tar insulator from the floorboard? The enormous flakes puzzles me.
rkymtnflyfisher
Trout Bum
- Thread starter
- #2,815
What I find interesting about that is where that flake is at is the bottom of that Real Steel floorboard I welded in. Everything else around my 40 seems to be fine. Even the other Real Steel products.
Later this year I'll get under it with some tools and pick it back to where it has bonded properly, maybe then I can determine if it was something I did improperly with that bare steel, or something broader.
Until then, I'm going to load the fat skis up in the 40 and go chase some powder stashes at the local mountain tomorrow.
Last edited:
Man, I'd hate to ride that ski lift in your neighborhood. There is no one on it! You get a lift operator who forgets that someone is actually still on it in the fog and snow at 4:27 pm and yes, really glad when that person finally sees the sun come back up the next day. Mechanical failure and one dude still up there, or go home and catch up with the rest of New Year's buzz and watch the game?
if parts from Real Steel are similar to CCOT ..
look at the installation recommendation picture (from CCOT website):
...for me, it looks 60-80 grid
look at the installation recommendation picture (from CCOT website):
...for me, it looks 60-80 grid
Where are you currently working?
I grew up in Ketchum and am still living here for now, a great place for sure, but unfortunately one of the only ones I’ve truly known. At 25 I’m feeling angst to leave but just about to ship my 60 in so I can work on it while living at home with extra car and leverage my current job (business end at a mechanics shop) to finish the project (it’s been a 1.5 year s*** show)—. Pretty exciting but definitely a sacrifice living in this funny place while I learn to wrench. It would be cool if we had a cruiser shop up here, there are classic cruisers but they all get work done at typical mechanics shops or shipped elsewhere.
I approve of the naming of your daughter,
Daniel
Skreddy
SILVER Star
I have a pretty specialized job in an electric utility. Limits what I can do without changing fields and not even every utility does it.
Gotcha
Dont know specifics off the top of my head but our town is seriously hurting for blue collar right now, all the richies raised rent prices and have forced a lot of people out. There may be a vacuum in your field as well. The tricky part is finding housing up here.
