Builds Amateur Franken40 Build

[DirtSniffer]

Rear 4 Link:
Frame upper links:

Adjustable Frame Mount Link Bracket 30 Degree

Adjustable Frame Mount Link Bracket 30 Degree High-Clearance 30° Frame Bracket for Precision Link Setup This inside-the-frame link bracket is precision-cut from 1/4" steel and ships unwelded for easy fitment and customization. With a 30° angled design, it’s perfect for tight frame rail setups...

www.ruffstuffspecialties.com

I would think I would want the 30* brackets, given the angles of the rear links. They also have a 10*.

Frame lower link:

Lower Triangulated 4 Link Bracket

Lower Triangulated 4 Link Bracket Ours are bit different than the rest, improving where we could and of course out of a solid 1/4" material rather than the 3/16" many companies will tell you is enough. I really want to make a point that 3/16" is not enough for this type of bracket. These are...

www.ruffstuffspecialties.com

This, or build my own cross member with mounts like @DangerNoodle. however, this is meant to mount to a atube cross member which would still allow the frame to flex whereas square would hinder and may have increased potential for frame cracking?


Axle Lower links:

3.0" Axle Mount 10 Degree Link Brackets

3.0" Axle Mount 10 Degree Link Brackets Angled lower link brackets for better anti-squat tuning These axle-mounted link brackets are a great way to build the lower links of any 3-link or 4-link suspension system. Cut for a 3.0" axle tube with a built-in 10° angle, they’re perfect for setups that...

www.ruffstuffspecialties.com

Axle Truss and Upper Links:

Toyota FJ80 Rear Axle Truss w/ 2.0" or 2.63” MW Upper Links

www.ballisticfabrication.com

Still considering this truss, from the quick reading I've done it seems widening the lower links is what has the biggest affect on body roll. I could also mount brackets further out on this truss.

 

[DangerNoodle]

I like the folded cross member, but its a bit harder to do without a plas table and good sized brake. You don't need a ton of triangulation for links, the more seperated they are, they better they handle onroad. I can whip my 40 around corners at speed and not feel like im going to die. I've driven a lot of linked stuff that is super sketchy above 40mph.

I will always recomend tube for stuff. Square looks hokey most of the time, and round doesnt have stress concentrations like square will.

 

[DirtSniffer]

Alternatively, I could get the link tabs this kit uses and slide them to where I want them. Maybe just the lower frame ones, I believe I want the frame uppers as far apart as possible anyways, and the RuffStiff 3 legged link doesn't need another cross member.

 

[DirtSniffer]

Another idea. Link tabs welded to tube clamps to make them adjustable horizontally. Would probably need to drill and sleeve holes in the cross member.

 

[Mike Shull]

I have the option of either 9/16 or 5/8 bore on the Johnny joints... are the 5/8 really necessary? Looks like their standard brackets and I assume the standard 3 link kit comes with 9/16.

I went with 5/8” bolts but 9/16” should be fine.

 

[DirtSniffer]

I went with 5/8” bolts but 9/16” should be fine.

Too late now I thought the bigger bore may limit joint articulation or just be overkill. I knew they'd be fine for this build but those tube mounted brackets apparently only come in 5/8. More meant for tube buggies. I'll probably make my own. I need an excuse for a plasma cutter.

Here's a tube clamp used for hydro assist, I'd have link tabs the other way for my idea. This may be too bulky and look weird tho, I may just do tabs off of a tube cross member.

 

[Mike Shull]

The upper links are tacked in. They seem a bit long so I’ll have another look after I get the lower crossmember mount made.

View attachment 3002915

View attachment 3002916

View attachment 3002917

Rear 4 Link:
Frame upper links:

Adjustable Frame Mount Link Bracket 30 Degree

Adjustable Frame Mount Link Bracket 30 Degree High-Clearance 30° Frame Bracket for Precision Link Setup This inside-the-frame link bracket is precision-cut from 1/4" steel and ships unwelded for easy fitment and customization. With a 30° angled design, it’s perfect for tight frame rail setups...

www.ruffstuffspecialties.com

I would think I would want the 30* brackets, given the angles of the rear links. They also have a 10*.

Frame lower link:

Lower Triangulated 4 Link Bracket

Lower Triangulated 4 Link Bracket Ours are bit different than the rest, improving where we could and of course out of a solid 1/4" material rather than the 3/16" many companies will tell you is enough. I really want to make a point that 3/16" is not enough for this type of bracket. These are...

www.ruffstuffspecialties.com

This, or build my own cross member with mounts like @DangerNoodle. however, this is meant to mount to a atube cross member which would still allow the frame to flex whereas square would hinder and may have increased potential for frame cracking?


Axle Lower links:

3.0" Axle Mount 10 Degree Link Brackets

3.0" Axle Mount 10 Degree Link Brackets Angled lower link brackets for better anti-squat tuning These axle-mounted link brackets are a great way to build the lower links of any 3-link or 4-link suspension system. Cut for a 3.0" axle tube with a built-in 10° angle, they’re perfect for setups that...

www.ruffstuffspecialties.com

Axle Truss and Upper Links:

Toyota FJ80 Rear Axle Truss w/ 2.0" or 2.63” MW Upper Links

www.ballisticfabrication.com

Still considering this truss, from the quick reading I've done it seems widening the lower links is what has the biggest affect on body roll. I could also mount brackets further out on this truss.

I went with 30* upper 4-link frame brackets and my links are around 20*. This works well for my configuration at full articulation. I put a link to an overhead view above if you are interested.

What are you using that hydro tube clamp for?

 

[DirtSniffer]

I went with 30* upper 4-link frame brackets and my links are around 20*. This works well for my configuration at full articulation. I put a link to an overhead view above if you are interested.

What are you using that hydro tube clamp for?

Thanks, i like pics...

The tube clamp was an idea for the rear lower links. That specific one is just a somewhat similar application as I haven't seen one used like this before. I'd have a tube cross member with a number of sleeved holes to adjust link width. But now I don't think horizontal adjustment is all that important and will probably just weld tabs straight to the cross member.

 

[Mike Shull]

I see what you are thinking of doing with the hydro bracket. I’d agree with your conclusion and I’m not sure that I would want that piece to be adjustable as moving along that plane will change the angle of your axle, which will make your vehicle want to turn and add some I unintended excitement if it moved while you were driving down the highway.

The Ruffstuff triangulated lower link bracket is quite hefty, as are the other brackets, and I think that you will be happy with this setup.

 

[DirtSniffer]

I like this option from Barnes 4WD as well.

 

[DirtSniffer]

An alternative to doing a truss on the rear. Similar to the stock 80 mounts but angled. Passenger side would obviously need to be modified to work with the diff pumpkin, like the stock mount. And probably needs gussets on the sides.

 

[fjdiesel]

I did this simple truss from Barnes. It seemed to work really well and was pretty close.

 

[DirtSniffer]

I did this simple truss from Barnes. It seemed to work really well and was pretty close.

I did see that in your build, I am not completely sold on a truss tho. Seems like they would hold a lot of mud. But I'm more interested in rocks anyways...

Here's a truss for the 80 rear from an Aussie company that seals everything off. Similar to the center part of @DangerNoodle's. May make something similar and hope the housing doesn't warp. But the trusses I welded on the 40 axles seemed to turn out fine... Welded 1-1.5" at a time and gave plenty of time to cool, jumped around.

 

[DirtSniffer]

Revised the shopping list, Barnes 4WD has some pretty reasonably priced brackets and I will be swapping out for some off the RuffStuff. I will stick with the RuffStuff front lower links and rear truss upper link brackets as they aren't closed off on the tops/bottoms which I believe would make it a real pain installing/removing links vs the more open RS brackets. I am planning on 10* front link brackets and 20* rear link brackets. I may want the front top link bracket to be 20*, however. I'll need to measure some more. I will make my own panhard brackets, likely from 2.5" 1/4" square/rect tube. And truss.

Front 3 Link:
Frame upper bracket, 10*:

Adjustable Inner Frame Link Mount Bracket

These adjustable inner frame link mount brackets are made to be welded directly to your frame. This is a super strong CNC bent, Laser cut bracket made to take serious abuse. Perfect for a three link or four link suspension system. These are made to be attached to your frame, they have an...

barnes4wd.com

Frame lower brackets:

Chassis Link Brackets

Chassis Link Brackets Heavy-Duty Brackets for 3- or 4-Link Suspension Builds These chassis link brackets are built for serious abuse—ideal for the lower links in any 3- or 4-link suspension setup. Each bracket is made from 1/4" thick A36 pickled & oiled steel and weighs nearly 3 pounds. The...

www.ruffstuffspecialties.com

Axle upper:

Axle Upper Link Mount, Toyota Mini Front Axle 79-85

Axle Upper Link Mount, Toyota Mini Front Axle 79-85 Heavy-Duty Upper Link Mount for Toyota Mini Truck Axles This bracket makes it simple to three-link a Toyota mini truck front axle. It mounts directly on top of the differential, positioning your upper link on the passenger side for optimal...

www.ruffstuffspecialties.com

Axle lower 10*:

Axle Link Mount Bracket Pair

These axle link mounts are made to be welded directly to the axle tube. This is a super strong CNC bent, Laser cut bracket made to take serious abuse. Perfect for a three link or four link suspension system. These are made to be attached to your axle and have an inside width of 2 5/8" or 2". We...

barnes4wd.com

Rear 4 link:
Frame upper adjustable 20* brackets (same as front upper):

Adjustable Inner Frame Link Mount Bracket

These adjustable inner frame link mount brackets are made to be welded directly to your frame. This is a super strong CNC bent, Laser cut bracket made to take serious abuse. Perfect for a three link or four link suspension system. These are made to be attached to your frame, they have an...

barnes4wd.com

Frame lower 20* (mounted to a tube cross member I will make)

Tube Link Mount Bracket Pair

These mounts are made to be welded directly to your tubing. This is a super strong CNC bent, laser cut bracket made to take serious abuse. Perfect for a three link or four link suspension system. These are made to be attached to a tube chassis or tubular crossmember and have an inside width of 2...

barnes4wd.com

Axle upper truss mounted links:

Upper Link Truss Mount, Pair

Check out the deal on Upper Link Truss Mount, Pair at RuffStuff Specialties

www.ruffstuffspecialties.com

Axle lower links 20* (same as front lowers):

Axle Link Mount Bracket Pair

These axle link mounts are made to be welded directly to the axle tube. This is a super strong CNC bent, Laser cut bracket made to take serious abuse. Perfect for a three link or four link suspension system. These are made to be attached to your axle and have an inside width of 2 5/8" or 2". We...

barnes4wd.com

 

[DirtSniffer]

For reference, here is the steering and panhard setup on my 80. 40 frame is about 1.5" narrower. I will probably be running high steer, so my drag link angle and length will differ from stock.

 

[DirtSniffer]

New tank, back in business... Got the driver's side rocker done and mostly welded hard top rails to the rockers. Managed to separate the back half with minimal carnage as I hadn't fully welded everything. Tacked some angle to the B pillars to make aligning the quarter panel filler peice of 3/16 for the stretch easier. No going back now. Will probably pull the front half some time this week, dop the engine somewhere and pull the axles. I am concidering cannibalizing this frame to make stiffeners for the other as I had to patch a section, and it's fairly pitted.

Also, this little loader is life changing. Wish I had the acreage to have an excuse for something bigger...

 

[DirtSniffer]

Nevermind, came off tonight...

 

[DirtSniffer]

Narrowing down link bracket selection, it looks like the 3 link lower frame mounts should be inset a bit. looking at these. Fair bit more than the regular frame brackets, but worth not having to mess with it myself.

 

[DirtSniffer]

Getting ready to place my bracket orders, wondering about tube adapters. Would I be wasting my money getting hex adapters for each end of every link? Or would you typically only put a hex on one end? Seems like sometimes people use them, and sometimes not and I'm not sure why other than cost. Would prefer to not have to use a pipe wrench to torque down jam nuts...

@DangerNoodle @Mike Shull

 

[Mike Shull]

Getting ready to place my bracket orders, wondering about tube adapters. Would I be wasting my money getting hex adapters for each end of every link? Or would you typically only put a hex on one end? Seems like sometimes people use them, and sometimes not and I'm not sure why other than cost. Would prefer to not have to use a pipe wrench to torque down jam nuts...

@DangerNoodle @Mike Shull

View attachment 3340687

I did not use these on my upper links or on any steel rod, but I would have used them had I thought about it.

My lower links are aluminum and they have notches for a wrench.