Builds Amateur Franken40 Build (3 Viewers)

[Firemedic831]

Go Tundra diff to Dana 60 outers

 

[Mike Shull]

Getting close to a rear winch bumper design plan. Have some crude SketchUp drawings to help visualize. The bumper/cross member will be made from 3x4x1/4 rectangular tube. The Ruff Stuff clevis shackle brackets on the other bumper I was originally using for inspiration were unfortunately discontinued just a week or two before I was planning to order them and there are none left. Not the end of the world, they would probably have gotten in the way of the swingout tire carrier. I have opted to utilize the hitch receiver as the main recovery point, but may weld something else into the frame later on.

The winch plate is actually from a big ugly weld together bumper kit for a Silverado a buddy abandoned at my place after changing his mind, it will be of much better use here.

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First bit of bling showed up today:
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I will be ordering the aqualu 18" stretch frame rails soon. As it turns out, the 10" stretch frame is made by adding 10" straight off the back of the regular 40 frame. Which, works fine for most, but I am planning on also shifting the rear axle rearwards a bit. The 18" stretch frame gets all of its extra length in the middle, flat portion of the frame. While 18" is a bit more stretch than I probably want, I can probably shave a few inches off the back still or move the front cross member where the bib mounts back a few inches, as my body and all of my body mounts will be custom anyways. Axles will be much wider, and front axle is getting shifted forward a bit anyways so not concerned about frame/tire interface.

I did a custom 14” stretched body from Aqualu and I had them build it like the 18” stretch where the added length is in the middle of the frame. I LOVE the length, especially for the leg room that both the front and rear passengers will get. It just looks right, too, but I have probably been staring at it too much. The 10” stretch would not have been enough for me.

18” might have been fine as I did run into some clearance challenges for putting the fuel tank behind my corporate 14B and in front of the added sway bar under the rear. My 14B is moved backwards and the D60 forwards to achieve 109” wheelbase and I would have been fine with 4 additional inches of overhang and the same wheelbase.

I used FJ40 frame rails to lengthen my frame and I’d have new rails braked next time, which is what I ended up doing for my inner rails anyway.

 

[DirtSniffer]

I did a custom 14” stretched body from Aqualu and I had them build it like the 18” stretch where the added length is in the middle of the frame. I LOVE the length, especially for the leg room that both the front and rear passengers will get. It just looks right, too, but I have probably been staring at it too much. The 10” stretch would not have been enough for me.

18” might have been fine as I did run into some clearance challenges for putting the fuel tank behind my corporate 14B and in front of the added sway bar under the rear. My 14B is moved backwards and the D60 forwards to achieve 109” wheelbase and I would have been fine with 4 additional inches of overhang and the same wheelbase.

I used FJ40 frame rails to lengthen my frame and I’d have new rails braked next time, which is what I ended up doing for my inner rails anyway.

I will probably be shooting for roughly that amount of stretch, which should be done easily by sliding the front cross member back 4". They unfortunately won't do custom length frames.

Reconcidering the centered 9.5 again. The D60s may just be too wide and need shortening. Front range also sells full float adapter flanges that bolt on to 4Runner/taco/tundra/FJ 8.4" axles and uses the same spindle & hub setup. I do like the idea of lots of diff clearance, but the 8.4 might not hold up with 37s and the 606. I don't get rowdy on rocks though. Another option is a rock assault housing with the weld on flanges which would fix the issue of the stock 8.4 housing being a bit flimsy. That plus going full float should make it pretty strong over stock. But, I do already have a 9.5...

 

[Mike Shull]

I will probably be shooting for roughly that amount of stretch, which should be done easily by sliding the front cross member back 4". They unfortunately won't do custom length frames.

Reconcidering the centered 9.5 again. The D60s may just be too wide and need shortening. Front range also sells full float adapter flanges that bolt on to 4Runner/taco/tundra/FJ 8.4" axles and uses the same spindle & hub setup. I do like the idea of lots of diff clearance, but the 8.4 might not hold up with 37s and the 606. I don't get rowdy on rocks though. Another option is a rock assault housing with the weld on flanges which would fix the issue of the stock 8.4 housing being a bit flimsy. That plus going full float should make it pretty strong over stock. But, I do already have a 9.5...

I had to replace my crossmember due to clearance issues. Shortening my D60 was very easy though keep in mind that these axles are VERY HEAVY and that mass alone will most likely take away from the added strength that you gain from a stock 1-ton setup. I don’t know anything about alternative axle routes outside of the 40 housings with minitruck parts. You are in good hands from the others who have chimed in.

 

[DirtSniffer]

I had to replace my crossmember due to clearance issues. Shortening my D60 was very easy though keep in mind that these axles are VERY HEAVY and that mass alone will most likely take away from the added strength that you gain from a stock 1-ton setup. I don’t know anything about alternative axle routes outside of the 40 housings with minitruck parts. You are in good hands from the others who have chimed in.

I do like that weight down low though. Lower center of gravity, pushes tires down more for more traction. But, more unsprung weight will amplify any geometry issues with my link setup. Still thinking.

 

[Mike Shull]

I do like that weight down low though. Lower center of gravity, pushes tires down more for more traction. But, more unsprung weight will amplify any geometry issues with my link setup. Still thinking.

I can’t remember if I posted this here before, and you probably already know all of this but if you like the weight and strength of the 1-ton setup, and width is your concern, I used dual wheel hubs on my C14, then I cut the left D60 axle tube with a sawzall and had a custom chrome moly shaft made by Currie Enterprises for for $250. I’m at 63” WMS.

 

[DirtSniffer]

I can’t remember if I posted this here before, and you probably already know all of this but if you like the weight and strength of the 1-ton setup, and width is your concern, I used dual wheel hubs on my C14, then I cut the left D60 axle tube with a sawzall and had a custom chrome moly shaft made by Currie Enterprises for for $250. I’m at 63” WMS.

I was aware of your setup, and would probably do similar if going with tons. At that point though I am either modifying a front D60 or a rear toy axle. No easy button here unfortunately.

 

[DirtSniffer]

The only easy route I have come up with is if I were to run the 8HP70/75, and an axis industries adapter to split case. I do have a 38mm split case. Then just run the stock 80 axles. The 5:1 1st gear of the 8hp plus 3:1 or 4:1 in the split case should be plenty for crawling. The axis adapters would run about 2 grand though, which puts me into atlas territory with the t-case gears. I am also holding out hope that DPUK finishes the manual valve body for the NAG-1 722.6 transmission, as I like that much more than expensive computers...

 

[DirtSniffer]

I've been thinking this over far too long now. But I think I am going to copy @Mike Shull and do a drw hub 14b rear and narrowed d60 front. The different bolt patterns and widths just makes it a huge headache to find a simpler solution. I like the beef of the tons, will give piece of mind on trips out west. Plus, the 606 will be putting out decent power. Then sell my split case and run an atlas regardless of my transmission choice.

Mike, I need to read up on this more, but you basically cut out the old inner C on the D60, cut to length, and press on and weld new inner Cs?

As it happens, someone now wants my rear 80 axle. May hold on the the front for a future project.

 

[Firemedic831]

I've been thinking this over far too long now. But I think I am going to copy @Mike Shull and do a drw hub 14b rear and narrowed d60 front. The different bolt patterns and widths just makes it a huge headache to find a simpler solution. I like the beef of the tons, will give piece of mind on trips out west. Plus, the 606 will be putting out decent power. Then sell my split case and run an atlas regardless of my transmission choice.

Mike, I need to read up on this more, but you basically cut out the old inner C on the D60, cut to length, and press on and weld new inner Cs?

As it happens, someone now wants my rear 80 axle. May hold on the the front for a future project.

You do know that his full build thread is in the Hardcore section correct ? there are a bunch of good builds over there

 

[DirtSniffer]

You do know that his full build thread is in the Hardcore section correct ? there are a bunch of good builds over there

I've been through his thread, didn't quite get the process of shortening the D60 but that is what it looked like. I'll be doing some reading there for sure.

 

[Mike Shull]

I've been thinking this over far too long now. But I think I am going to copy @Mike Shull and do a drw hub 14b rear and narrowed d60 front. The different bolt patterns and widths just makes it a huge headache to find a simpler solution. I like the beef of the tons, will give piece of mind on trips out west. Plus, the 606 will be putting out decent power. Then sell my split case and run an atlas regardless of my transmission choice.

Mike, I need to read up on this more, but you basically cut out the old inner C on the D60, cut to length, and press on and weld new inner Cs?

As it happens, someone now wants my rear 80 axle. May hold on the the front for a future project.

Shortening the axle is on the very first page of my thread. I didn’t really do a how to but I’m happy to answer any questions. I had a lot of help from the folks on here.

I cut both Cs off and welded on two Reid Racing Cs so that I could rotate my diff a bit. This was probably not that necessary. I had to heat the new Cs to a pretty high temperature to be able to install them.

I just saw a 1-ton Chevy truck that sold on Craigslist. The bed was gone and it was fairly stripped but it had the D60/C14 setup for $1500. It went quick. I’ll keep my eye open.

 

[Mike Shull]

And here is another one. 1986 k30 military pickup truck d30 chevy 1 ton - auto parts - by owner - vehicle automotive sale - craigslist - https://longisland.craigslist.org/pts/d/shoreham-1986-k30-military-pickup-truck/7732040207.html

I lucked out and my axles came built with 35 spline shafts, ARBs and 5:13 gears.

 

[DirtSniffer]

Shortening the axle is on the very first page of my thread. I didn’t really do a how to but I’m happy to answer any questions. I had a lot of help from the folks on here.

I cut both Cs off and welded on two Reid Racing Cs so that I could rotate my diff a bit. This was probably not that necessary. I had to heat the new Cs to a pretty high temperature to be able to install them.

I just saw a 1-ton Chevy truck that sold on Craigslist. The bed was gone and it was fairly stripped but it had the D60/C14 setup for $1500. It went quick. I’ll keep my eye open.

Seems simple enough. Good to get caster adjusted as well. I'll be keeping an eye out once I get a few things sold, won't be ready for axles and suspension till next spring by my estimation.