Am I on the right track? 60 steering conversion. (1 Viewer)

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Jdc1

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I am helping a buddy with his 60 conversion.

1969 FJ40 with 1980ish front axle and 2F. 2.5" Rocky Mountain lift and 33x12.5 MT.

After reading countless threads, i am seeing that the stock shock tower is the limiting factor on how far forward the box needs to be. I would like to not cut the rad support if i dont have to.

It looks like i can keep the drag link to pitman in the same location if i use a shock hoop instead of a ford or stock tower.

Any insight? Thanks in advance.

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You're good
 
Make sure the TR does not hit the pittman arm at full compression with the steering turned both ways.

It should be okay, but it's always good to check.
 
Make sure the TR does not hit the pittman arm at full compression with the steering turned both ways.

It should be okay, but it's always good to check.

Thanks for the heads up. Plan is to get the box about where its going to be and then hook up steering linkage to see what everything looks like.
 
the issue would be the swing of the arm. Both are side to side, but the stock center arm moves forward when swinging, the 60 arm moves backwards.

Looks like you got it covered already though!
 
Looks good, had to trim shock tower on my dad's. It was minimal. You are going to really like it when done
 
After a brief search for a set of 60 or minitruck steering arms, i decided to measure the set that is on my other 40.

They are the same size at the tie rods as the FJ40 disk arms. I completed a knuckle rebuild on this truck last month and dont feel like tearing it apart again to set up a new set of arms.

I will be using this reamer to fit the 60 ends into the 40 arms.
Yankee #800 1 1/2" Taper per Foot Ball Joint Reamer .4688-1.0312 Left Hand Spiral M2 HSS: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

Add in a set of 4plus weld in tie rod inserts and problem solved.

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Awesome!
 
This conversion isnt neccessarily as "hardcore" as some of you are used to seeing. I put this thread here so people that use their rigs and know what breaks can see it. Thanks for looking.

While waiting for parts and staring at the 40 all weekend, i noticed that where the box is currently sitting, i have access to the inside of the frame.

Is it neccessarily stronger to sleave the bolts and sandwich the frame rail between 2 1/8" plates or would 4 grade 8 or better bolts and nylock nuts through the outside of the frame be sufficient?
 
It is stronger to sleeve the frame and run longer bolts.

However Mark Whatley is a big fan of welding a scab plate to the outside of the frame and running studs. Which is what I am planning for the FJ60 steering conversion on my brothers Fj40.
 
thanks for posting this up I was unaware of the weld in sleeves from Dave and that a reamer was readily available. I was under the impression that Toyota's had a 7.5 degree pitch and that those reamers were not easy to come by. Definitely opens up some nice options for the next one i do.
 
thanks for posting this up I was unaware of the weld in sleeves from Dave and that a reamer was readily available. I was under the impression that Toyota's had a 7.5 degree pitch and that those reamers were not easy to come by. Definitely opens up some nice options for the next one i do.

No problem Roma, i lifted the taper info from Pirate. My end goal is to simplify this for the next guy when he goes shopping for TREs.
 
I'm in the process of getting this done as well-does it take a year or is that just me?

Anyway, I have question about the sleeves in the frame. Do people weld them to the inner scab plate? Or are they "floating"? My fab skills are getting better, but I don't know if I'd get them lined up with the holes.
 

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