Aluminum vs Original Radiator (1 Viewer)

[Hamachi]

Happy Mother’s Day!

What do you guys think is a better way to go a new aluminum or original radiator that is rebuilt?

I’m running a stock Chevy SBC 5.7 L31 (vortec heads) with a H42 trans for now.

Thank you!

 

[WarDamnEagle]

Happy Mother’s Day!

What do you guys think is a better way to go a new aluminum or original radiator that is rebuilt?

I’m running a stock Chevy SBC 5.7 L31 (vortec heads) with a H42 trans for now.

Thank you!

I don't have a definitive answer for you but my initial thoughts are that the original radiator wasn't designed for a SBC. Seems like once you go that direction you would want more cooling than the original radiator but I'm sure some of the SBC guys can chime in with more clarity.

 

[RUSH55]

It’s more important to cater a radiator to the needs of the engine. The coolant ports are routed differently on an LS vs. 2F, which doesn’t mean it can’t be done, it just isn’t necessarily ideal. There is an aluminum radiator set up in a FJ55 factory form, that bolts up like the original, offered through Mosley. The ports are setup in the original position but in different OD to match the Chevy hose size.
The other route is a cross-flow style with both ports on the side of the radiator for easier hook up, it’s just a matter of fabricating some mounts to hold the radiator in place.

Six of one, half-dozen of the other.

 

[Hamachi]

It’s more important to cater a radiator to the needs of the engine. The coolant ports are routed differently on an LS vs. 2F, which doesn’t mean it can’t be done, it just isn’t necessarily ideal. There is an aluminum radiator set up in a FJ55 factory form, that bolts up like the original, offered through Mosley. The ports are setup in the original position but in different OD to match the Chevy hose size.
The other route is a cross-flow style with both ports on the side of the radiator for easier hook up, it’s just a matter of fabricating some mounts to hold the radiator in place.

Six of one, half-dozen of the other.

Cool - thanks man.

I run the same 5.7 in my 40 with a champion aluminum radio for last 8 years with no overheating, but the piggy weighs quite a bit more.

I also run the Mishimoto aluminum radiator in my fj60 with a 5.3 vortec with no issues…

I appreciate your help!

 

[bobm]

I got Champion with 2f runs max at 170° no matter what

 

[bobm]

It’s more important to cater a radiator to the needs of the engine. The coolant ports are routed differently on an LS vs. 2F, which doesn’t mean it can’t be done, it just isn’t necessarily ideal. There is an aluminum radiator set up in a FJ55 factory form, that bolts up like the original, offered through Mosley. The ports are setup in the original position but in different OD to match the Chevy hose size.
The other route is a cross-flow style with both ports on the side of the radiator for easier hook up, it’s just a matter of fabricating some mounts to hold the radiator in place.

Six of one, half-dozen of the other.

Genius

 

[J Mack]

What do you guys think is a better way to go a new aluminum or original radiator that is rebuilt?

Copper has superior thermal conductivity compared to aluminum, surface area is a major consideration large thick core will have more surface area for heat exchange than a small thin core, crossflow is said to be more efficient cooling everything else being equal but with the space constraints of a pig snout the hose locations & size would be more important to me on a modified Pig than cross flow vs down flow.

I just bought a Be-cool Made in the USA Radiator for a project and I was impressed.

 

[bobm]

If ya Nips get pointy and 🌬 from buying da Luminum ya knows ya made da right chooce

 

[bobm]

Copper has superior thermal conductivity compared to aluminum, surface area is a major consideration large thick core will have more surface area for heat exchange than a small thin core, crossflow is said to be more efficient cooling everything else being equal but with the space constraints of a pig snout the hose locations & size would be more important to me on a modified Pig than cross flow vs down flow.

I just bought a Be-cool Made in the USA Radiator for a project and I was impressed.

Made in USA is the way to go

 

[Hamachi]

Amsoil sells a heat transfer fluid that is tested to reduce temperature by 20 percent.

I run that in my other land cruisers so I’ll run it miss piggy as well.

Thanks for all the good tips!

Is anybody here in Portland, OR?
I’m heading up there tomorrow for a week…

 

[riderjgs]

Not here to diss sexy looking aluminum radiators. But perhaps important to remember the radiator is only one of many elements of your cooling system.
For a dozen years I ran a rebuilt OEM radiator in front of two different SBCs, a mid-70s era carbureted 350 and a 90ish TBI 5.7, both in front of an OEM Toyota 4spd. and transfer case. Overheated only once in 50,000 miles and that was because of a faulty cap. From crawling at Moab and above timberline in CO, on multiple Pig Parties, from sea level to around 13,000', CA and AZ to ID and MT, and up to 90mph on the Interstate (thanks to Ranger overdrive) chasing @scrapdaddy on the way to J Mack's. Never got around to doing a shroud. Didn't seem necessary and liked the easy access to belts and accessories. At worst the temp gauge hit maybe 70% briefly. Usually ran right a the halfway mark.
What I did when doing the builds was listen to the old timers. High volume water pump and heavy duty fan clutch (fan kicks in earlier) from 3/4 and 1 ton pickups. Quality 180-degee or 190-degree thermostat and appropriate cap. Good fresh coolant.
All six cooling elements are in play every time you hit the key. No silver (or aluminum) bullets.

 

[Hamachi]

Thanks for the solid feedback.
I’m gonna take your advice and run a high flow water pump and heavy duty fan clutch!

 

[Megadoomer]

I run an aluminum crossflow, double pass radiator in my pig with a LM7 and use the chevy clutch fan. I have done 85 up hill in 115 degree temps with the AC on. I do not worry about cooling with my setup.

 

[Hamachi]

I run an aluminum crossflow, double pass radiator in my pig with a LM7 and use the chevy clutch fan. I have done 85 up hill in 115 degree temps with the AC on. I do not worry about cooling with my setup.

Can you post some pics?
Thank you.

 

[Megadoomer]

Can you post some pics?
Thank you.

Post in thread 'Megadoomer Build' Builds - Megadoomer Build - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/megadoomer-build.685020/post-13848600

My build starts to talk about it around here. I got it from Speedway Motors and it was decently priced. The fan shroud is a diy kit from Speedway made for that radiator.

 

[onemanarmy]

I need a new rad......I see ebay chineseum ones, the mosley one, or getting mine rebuilt......(listed in order of price)

I'm still running the 2F

anyone used this CSF?

CSF Black Heavy-Duty Copper Brass Radiator 1970-1980 Toyota Land Cruiser FJ50 FJ55 3.9L F 4.2L 2F

Landcruiser Heavy-Duty Copper/Brass Construction Original Style Copper/Brass Construction – Over 20,000 Sold! Ribbed Brass End Tanks for Additional Strength Reinforced Side End Plates to Withstand Heavy Vibration and Chassis Flex During Off-Roading True “Drop-in” Fit With No Modifications...

www.realstreetperformance.com

Or has anyone modded a cheaper/more common/off the shelf rad to fit lately? Or is there a good site that lists rads by dimensions, mounting, inlet/outlet size and locations, etc for cross referencing?

Thanks!

 

[Pighead]

I need a new rad......I see ebay chineseum ones, the mosley one, or getting mine rebuilt......(listed in order of price)

I'm still running the 2F

anyone used this CSF?

CSF Black Heavy-Duty Copper Brass Radiator 1970-1980 Toyota Land Cruiser FJ50 FJ55 3.9L F 4.2L 2F

Landcruiser Heavy-Duty Copper/Brass Construction Original Style Copper/Brass Construction – Over 20,000 Sold! Ribbed Brass End Tanks for Additional Strength Reinforced Side End Plates to Withstand Heavy Vibration and Chassis Flex During Off-Roading True “Drop-in” Fit With No Modifications...

www.realstreetperformance.com

Or has anyone modded a cheaper/more common/off the shelf rad to fit lately? Or is there a good site that lists rads by dimensions, mounting, inlet/outlet size and locations, etc for cross referencing?

Thanks!

It wasn't always this easy to find a replacement radiator for a 55, so I've had mine re-cored a couple times. They make some very nice cores that fit and look OEM. I don't run a shroud, didn't need one until 2 Rubithons ago when I was getting temps into the 230s F climbing long hills in low/low/1st on a hot day. I probably could have just had it rodded out but I got a new Mosley aluminum radiator instead. Now my water temp doesn't get above 200 on that trail. Doesn't get above 180 around town. It's like magic and it looks really, really nice.
A re-core will probably cost as much as the cheap replacement radiator but it will be like new, sturdier and will bolt back in with no fitment issues. It's also nice to have a good working relationship with a radiator shop for when you break off that little brass nipple for the overflow tube and need it soldered back on real quick with the radiator still in the Pig...

 

[bobm]

Mines a Champion

 

[Pighead]

Mines a Champion

You're a Champion bob.

 

[onemanarmy]

Recore is gonna cost 800-1000....checked with 2 local rad shops 'with old guys working there'

@bobm
what champion model?